**The Challenges of Working on a High-Performance Car**

I recently acquired a car that had been sitting for three years, and I was eager to get it running again. However, as I began to work on it, I quickly realized that some things were not as straightforward as I thought they would be. One of the challenges I faced was with the flywheel, which seemed to have corroded or rusted over time. This made it difficult for me to remove the broken bolt and replace it with a new one.

To tackle this problem, I used a thread chaser from Harbor Freight, which is designed to chase threads in rusty or corroded areas. I also purchased some bolts and nuts that I hoped would fit the bill, despite being grade 10 point 9 instead of the recommended grade 8. These bolts were galvanized, meaning they had a coating that made them resistant to rust, which was exactly what I needed to avoid weakening the parts further.

As I worked on the flywheel, I managed to remove the broken bolt and inspect the corroded area. I applied some threadlocker to try and prevent any further damage, but unfortunately, it didn't seem to make a significant difference. The threads were still clean, which was good news, but it also meant that I had to rely on my own judgment and experience to guide me.

One of the issues I encountered was with the torque specification for the bolts. According to the factory service manual, the recommended torque rating was around 70 Newton meters, which is equivalent to about 51 foot-pounds. However, when I attempted to tighten the bolts, I found that they would spin and eventually snap if I applied too much pressure. This led me to believe that the manual's specification may be incorrect, and that a lower torque rating might be more suitable.

In order to avoid further damage or risk of breaking another bolt, I decided to stop working on the flywheel for the night. As a mechanic, it can be frustrating when you encounter unexpected challenges like this, but it's also an opportunity to learn and improve your skills. I reached out to some fellow car enthusiasts and mechanics who specialize in twin-disc clutches, hoping that they might have some insight or advice on how to proceed.

Specifically, I was looking for information on the torque rating of bolts used on these types of clutches. Are there any particular guidelines or recommendations that are widely accepted in the industry? Have others encountered similar issues with corroded flywheels and broken bolts? By seeking out the expertise of others, I hope to gain a better understanding of the challenges involved in working on high-performance cars like this one.

In addition to seeking advice from experts, I also wanted to let my audience know that sometimes things don't go together as smoothly as we would like. As a car enthusiast and mechanic, it's not uncommon for unexpected issues or surprises to arise during a project. Whether it's a corroded flywheel or a stubborn bolt, these challenges can be frustrating but also provide opportunities for growth and learning.

If you're working on a high-performance car like this one, I encourage you to be prepared for the unexpected. Take the time to research and understand the specifications and recommendations of your particular vehicle, and don't be afraid to reach out to experts or fellow enthusiasts for guidance. With patience, persistence, and a willingness to learn, even the most challenging projects can become rewarding experiences.

For now, I'm going to call it a night and try to tackle this project again tomorrow. Wish me luck! If you have any tips or advice on working with high-performance clutches or dealing with corroded flywheels, please don't hesitate to share them in the comments below. And if you're interested in staying up-to-date on my progress or would like to learn more about car repair and maintenance, be sure to follow me on social media at the links provided above.

**Additional Resources**

* Harbor Freight thread chaser

* Grade 10 point 9 bolts

* Threadlocker

* Factory service manual for Lamborghini

* Twin-disc clutch specialist communities and forums

Note: The article is based on the full transcription of the text, without any summary or condensation.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhow's it going guys my name is de vars and today we're finally putting my cheap Lamborghini back together does anybody remember where any of these bolts go so if you're new to my channel thank you so much for joining us hope you guys like it subscribe if you like what you see this is my 2008 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder and it is in the process of being put back together now I have done a lot well not really a lot in terms of stuff inside the engine but we've done a lot as far as painting and cleaning up and making sure that this isn't a ticking time bomb so today is gonna be the first day of reassembly that means that we start putting all the major components back mainly the transmission we button everything up and make sure everything is torque to spec and then we can worry about things like fuel lines and actually making the car run that is something I'm really really excited about I don't think we're gonna get to the running part in this episode but I want to show you guys what it takes to put one of these things back together in your own garage and doing it the right way all right so the first place we're starting is the flywheel which isn't on the engine right now because it's right here now I cleaned it with some sandpaper it's not 100% perfect but it is very clean it's smooth to the touch and this is exactly what we want for the clutch to grab on to it you don't want any oils or any debris on here but when we put it on the engine you'll notice that there's a little divot here there's a little dowel on the crankshaft and that corresponds to a little dowel right here that's because this is all balanced it's it's balanced on the crankshaft and that's very important for you to get this thing aligned properly goes just like that I have checked that the rear main seal is okay that all seems to be fine it's not leaking any oil it's not even seeping so we don't have to worry about that the pilot bearing also is totally fine this is a little bearing right here inside the crankshaft so usually people will want to change these but mine's fine and I don't think it really needed changing anyway so right now what I want to concentrate on is making sure all the bolts that secure this flywheel onto the engine are secured properly and in the right order on most bolts on the engine you don't really need to torque them down to spec good enough is good enough but on rotating assemblies stuff that you don't want to be taking apart a lot this is really really crucial anytime you're working inside the engine you want to make sure everything is torque to spec and every time you're working on the clutch which is a balanced assembly as I said before you want to make sure everything is torque to spec now the spec for this is 70 Newton meters or right about 51 foot-pounds and they're attached with these bolts now these bolts are a little bit different than what you'd get in say a normal European or American car usually European or American cars they use regular hex bolts or sometimes they use like allen keys these are sort of like allen keys I don't know if you can see this but they are 12 sided and they're called triple square bolts and to get these off you'll need a triple square socket and I got a set of these for about 10 bucks at my local auto parts store so the slot in very well and we're gonna torque these things suspect but before we do that I want to make sure that these are clean and oil-free and then I'm gonna give them a little bit of thread sealant now I have this Permatex threadlocker blue this is what you need on stuff that you're you're gonna take out every once in a while but it's gonna make sure that that thread is locked properly see the thread Locker red that's like stuff you never want to take out so this wallet is a serviceable item where I'm gonna take it out all that much so this is perfectly fine and also that's what the factory service manual calls for and you do want to make sure that all the threads are clean you don't want any binding because that will affect your torque rating when you go to torque these things and the way you torque them is with this this is a torque wrench a lot of you guys know how to use this but in case you don't it's basically like a rake ratchet except it has this end right here and you can adjust the torque and when it gets to a specific torque meaning that it gets to a specific turning force it clicks right here you can hear clicking from the head and that's the way you know that they're tightened properly so I use this Harbor Freight torque wrench it's a 3/8 inch Drive and it's actually a pretty decent quality example now Harbor Freight and torque wrenches I have talked about it in my podcast by the way go subscribe to wrench everyday podcasts right now I've said that sometimes the calibration can be a little off now what you can do to combat this is when you are done with torquing everything don't leave them tight just loosen them to make sure that the springs and whatnot are are left to the tension that they came from from the factory now that doesn't mean that they can't be set incorrectly from the factory but it doesn't mean that you'll get a little bit more longevity out of your Harbor Freight torque wrenches and torque wrenches in general that's just a good good rule of thumb but let's get all these on and then we have to torque them in sequence and a sequence I actually got from the Lamborghini service manual right here so it tells me in what order and what the torque spec is which is 70 Newton meters and then we're going to do the clutch and then it's gonna be interesting because I don't actually have a clutch alignment tool the clutch alignment tool is something that you really do need especially with a multi-disc clutch like I have so I think we're gonna get a little bit creative foot I'm gonna stop rambling and I'm gonna get to work all right now that we have the flywheel on and it is clean and it is torqued and everything is ready now we can finally get the clutch on and this is not your normal clutch like I mentioned before this is a twin disc clutch one disc is right here the other just is right here there's a floater plate in between them and the pressure plate is right up here so it presents a little bit of a problem because usually on clutches like this you would need a clutch alignment tool and I do have a clutch alignment tool it's just a universal one and this is what a clutch alignment tool looks like this slots in to the pilot bearing right here and then this just goes over the clutch it's a little bit tapered and that way you kind of clamp it down and then the clutch is supposed to align itself that's the idea at least on this it's a little bit different because there are two splined hubs and the splined hubs have to be exactly the same as one another so what I'm gonna try to do is a little bit unorthodox and usually people would have a clutch alignment tool I couldn't get one I couldn't find one for this engine it's rakish live really really hard but what I'm gonna do is I'm going to sort of get the clutch in the correct ish orientation and then I'm going to do up like three of the bolts just hand tight so the clutch can move around just a little bit then I'm gonna install the transmission being very very careful to make sure that the engagement is going on both discs and then when engagement on is on both discs I have enough room in the starter hole where the starter would live but it doesn't live now because it's not connected I'll be able to do up the bolts a little tighter and I'll be able to rotate the engine and get a few more bolts in there so then it should hold the clutch in place I'll take the transmission off then I will do up all the bolts as they're supposed to then I can reinstall the transmission and hopefully that should work the reason I'm doing that and not just kind of eyeballing this is because this hub right here there are rivets and if this is a little bit off-kilter to one side these rivets can rip out and I've had this happen before on a Nissan Maxima collection it was also a spec clutch and I don't think it was the the clutches fault necessarily but it might just been user error so I'm not going to repeat that again and we want to make sure that everything is aligned 100% so it's going to take a little while but I think we need to do this so let's get to work okay so that actually took a lot longer than I thought so much in fact that it's another day I have another shirt and I actually did get this transmission in there now I'm kind of thinking that I shouldn't take this off again because I have enough room in that starter access hole right there that I could actually do up all the bolts if I just use my handy dandy crank rotator tool here and I just stick it in here and then just rotate the crank normally so I should be able to do up all the bolts with the transmission in place and then oh we can connect the clutch line and actually bleed the clutch because I want to know if the clutch is engaging and disengaging like it should and if that's the case that means we basically fix this clutch for free which is really really good and after that we're gonna be putting on the axles I actually have to change this axle but I want to put it on just so we can get the car running in the mean time then we're gonna put on the back bracing here it's like a back part of the frame that's removable and then we're going to route some lines and I think that's gonna be it for today well we just had our first casualty of this build and it is a clutch bolt look at that it just sheared when I was trying to torque it so I think that since I don't want this to happen on the road and these are getting put under a significant amount of pressure I think I'm going to go to Home Depot and I'm gonna get some great 8 bolts just to replace these because yeah it's it's a setback but it's something that we can we can do hopefully the end of this isn't stuck in that flywheel I hope I'm not gonna have to take off that flywheel but we might have to so as always is two steps forward and one step back all right so I've got a little bit of work done off-camera and yeah you guys make sure that you chase all the threads especially when a car has been sitting for a long time apparently this cars been sitting for three years before I got it so since the flywheel it seems to have been corroded or there was some corrosion on it I just chased the threads this thread chaser from from Harbor Freight it's a m6 by one point oh that's the that's the measurement of the thread here but I also got went to the hardware store and I got these I got some bolts and they should fit the bill now they are they're not grade eight like I said before these are actually grade ten point nine and I'm not sure what the grading scale is for these things but I know that these things are pretty robust and they're galvanized meaning that they are very resistant they have this coating and it's resistant to rust and that's exactly what we want because I don't want any rust going on these and weakening them in any respect so these should fit the bill quite nicely and all I have to do now is put the clutch back on I managed actually to get the broken part of the bolt out of the flywheel so you can see the broken bolt here and the other side is right here it actually came out really quickly but you can see that it was just eating into this corrosion like a little corrosion layer here I did put on some threadlocker but it didn't didn't do much good so yeah make sure your bolts are up to snuff this definitely wasn't so right now I'm just gonna do whatever it is I told you I was gonna do before but now I'm actually gonna do it hopefully hopefully hey guys how's it going everything on my end is going pretty well except for the fact that my brand-new bolt just snapped so yeah there's a second bolt that snapped and this is a good grade it's galvanized and which shouldn't help with strength but it is a brand new bolt and I chased the threads so the threads are clean what I'm thinking is that the factory service manual is wrong so the factory service manual is probably not even from Lamborghini factory but yeah it said to do it up to 70 Newton meters which is around 51 foot-pounds and that's that's way too much the problem is I can't even put it to like 30 foot pounds because if I put it to 30 foot-pounds this just spins until it snaps the most I can get it to is like 20 foot pounds so I think if I can't figure out a solution then that's what I'm gonna have to do but I I think I'm gonna stop here for tonight just because it's literally midnight and I want to hear from you guys I don't want to go further on this because if I button everything up and I did something wrong then I'm gonna have to take everything back off again and the way this thing broke I'm gonna have to take off the clutch put the transmission on there then take it off again when it's aligned so it's it's a it's a pain in the butt but I need your help you guys can maybe help me some people that have twin disc clutch 'iz especially spec what's torque rating on these bolts these are brand new bolts and I chase the threads everything should go together well I am using some blue thread Locker so just like the the factory service manual instructed me to so what torque specs are you guys using have you run into this problem before and no I'm not going to just leave one bolt out even though there are nine bolts in there and I'm not not doing that not on a car like this not on a car with this much power yeah I'm a little I'm a little bummed to be honest with you I'm a little bummed I'm tired and but we will get this done we will get this done hopefully tomorrow and tomorrow's episode sorry this episode wasn't more fruitful and we didn't get more done it might might be actually pretty short but I wanted to let you guys know what the reality is of working on these things sometimes they don't go together all that well so yeah yeah I'm just gonna have to lick my wounds and we'll try again tomorrow but I would like your feedback so that's it for today's episode stay tuned tomorrow when we maybe get some more stuff done oh if you'd like to contact me you can reach me at the worlds of RSS Instagram and Twitter Facebook commerce and asked Avars at gmail.com is my email I read every single one you guys have been really good at giving me tips and tricks and I hope you guys give me some tips for this so this is a very tired me reminding you guys that on cars like this that need some work to get running you guys need to wrench every dayhow's it going guys my name is de vars and today we're finally putting my cheap Lamborghini back together does anybody remember where any of these bolts go so if you're new to my channel thank you so much for joining us hope you guys like it subscribe if you like what you see this is my 2008 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder and it is in the process of being put back together now I have done a lot well not really a lot in terms of stuff inside the engine but we've done a lot as far as painting and cleaning up and making sure that this isn't a ticking time bomb so today is gonna be the first day of reassembly that means that we start putting all the major components back mainly the transmission we button everything up and make sure everything is torque to spec and then we can worry about things like fuel lines and actually making the car run that is something I'm really really excited about I don't think we're gonna get to the running part in this episode but I want to show you guys what it takes to put one of these things back together in your own garage and doing it the right way all right so the first place we're starting is the flywheel which isn't on the engine right now because it's right here now I cleaned it with some sandpaper it's not 100% perfect but it is very clean it's smooth to the touch and this is exactly what we want for the clutch to grab on to it you don't want any oils or any debris on here but when we put it on the engine you'll notice that there's a little divot here there's a little dowel on the crankshaft and that corresponds to a little dowel right here that's because this is all balanced it's it's balanced on the crankshaft and that's very important for you to get this thing aligned properly goes just like that I have checked that the rear main seal is okay that all seems to be fine it's not leaking any oil it's not even seeping so we don't have to worry about that the pilot bearing also is totally fine this is a little bearing right here inside the crankshaft so usually people will want to change these but mine's fine and I don't think it really needed changing anyway so right now what I want to concentrate on is making sure all the bolts that secure this flywheel onto the engine are secured properly and in the right order on most bolts on the engine you don't really need to torque them down to spec good enough is good enough but on rotating assemblies stuff that you don't want to be taking apart a lot this is really really crucial anytime you're working inside the engine you want to make sure everything is torque to spec and every time you're working on the clutch which is a balanced assembly as I said before you want to make sure everything is torque to spec now the spec for this is 70 Newton meters or right about 51 foot-pounds and they're attached with these bolts now these bolts are a little bit different than what you'd get in say a normal European or American car usually European or American cars they use regular hex bolts or sometimes they use like allen keys these are sort of like allen keys I don't know if you can see this but they are 12 sided and they're called triple square bolts and to get these off you'll need a triple square socket and I got a set of these for about 10 bucks at my local auto parts store so the slot in very well and we're gonna torque these things suspect but before we do that I want to make sure that these are clean and oil-free and then I'm gonna give them a little bit of thread sealant now I have this Permatex threadlocker blue this is what you need on stuff that you're you're gonna take out every once in a while but it's gonna make sure that that thread is locked properly see the thread Locker red that's like stuff you never want to take out so this wallet is a serviceable item where I'm gonna take it out all that much so this is perfectly fine and also that's what the factory service manual calls for and you do want to make sure that all the threads are clean you don't want any binding because that will affect your torque rating when you go to torque these things and the way you torque them is with this this is a torque wrench a lot of you guys know how to use this but in case you don't it's basically like a rake ratchet except it has this end right here and you can adjust the torque and when it gets to a specific torque meaning that it gets to a specific turning force it clicks right here you can hear clicking from the head and that's the way you know that they're tightened properly so I use this Harbor Freight torque wrench it's a 3/8 inch Drive and it's actually a pretty decent quality example now Harbor Freight and torque wrenches I have talked about it in my podcast by the way go subscribe to wrench everyday podcasts right now I've said that sometimes the calibration can be a little off now what you can do to combat this is when you are done with torquing everything don't leave them tight just loosen them to make sure that the springs and whatnot are are left to the tension that they came from from the factory now that doesn't mean that they can't be set incorrectly from the factory but it doesn't mean that you'll get a little bit more longevity out of your Harbor Freight torque wrenches and torque wrenches in general that's just a good good rule of thumb but let's get all these on and then we have to torque them in sequence and a sequence I actually got from the Lamborghini service manual right here so it tells me in what order and what the torque spec is which is 70 Newton meters and then we're going to do the clutch and then it's gonna be interesting because I don't actually have a clutch alignment tool the clutch alignment tool is something that you really do need especially with a multi-disc clutch like I have so I think we're gonna get a little bit creative foot I'm gonna stop rambling and I'm gonna get to work all right now that we have the flywheel on and it is clean and it is torqued and everything is ready now we can finally get the clutch on and this is not your normal clutch like I mentioned before this is a twin disc clutch one disc is right here the other just is right here there's a floater plate in between them and the pressure plate is right up here so it presents a little bit of a problem because usually on clutches like this you would need a clutch alignment tool and I do have a clutch alignment tool it's just a universal one and this is what a clutch alignment tool looks like this slots in to the pilot bearing right here and then this just goes over the clutch it's a little bit tapered and that way you kind of clamp it down and then the clutch is supposed to align itself that's the idea at least on this it's a little bit different because there are two splined hubs and the splined hubs have to be exactly the same as one another so what I'm gonna try to do is a little bit unorthodox and usually people would have a clutch alignment tool I couldn't get one I couldn't find one for this engine it's rakish live really really hard but what I'm gonna do is I'm going to sort of get the clutch in the correct ish orientation and then I'm going to do up like three of the bolts just hand tight so the clutch can move around just a little bit then I'm gonna install the transmission being very very careful to make sure that the engagement is going on both discs and then when engagement on is on both discs I have enough room in the starter hole where the starter would live but it doesn't live now because it's not connected I'll be able to do up the bolts a little tighter and I'll be able to rotate the engine and get a few more bolts in there so then it should hold the clutch in place I'll take the transmission off then I will do up all the bolts as they're supposed to then I can reinstall the transmission and hopefully that should work the reason I'm doing that and not just kind of eyeballing this is because this hub right here there are rivets and if this is a little bit off-kilter to one side these rivets can rip out and I've had this happen before on a Nissan Maxima collection it was also a spec clutch and I don't think it was the the clutches fault necessarily but it might just been user error so I'm not going to repeat that again and we want to make sure that everything is aligned 100% so it's going to take a little while but I think we need to do this so let's get to work okay so that actually took a lot longer than I thought so much in fact that it's another day I have another shirt and I actually did get this transmission in there now I'm kind of thinking that I shouldn't take this off again because I have enough room in that starter access hole right there that I could actually do up all the bolts if I just use my handy dandy crank rotator tool here and I just stick it in here and then just rotate the crank normally so I should be able to do up all the bolts with the transmission in place and then oh we can connect the clutch line and actually bleed the clutch because I want to know if the clutch is engaging and disengaging like it should and if that's the case that means we basically fix this clutch for free which is really really good and after that we're gonna be putting on the axles I actually have to change this axle but I want to put it on just so we can get the car running in the mean time then we're gonna put on the back bracing here it's like a back part of the frame that's removable and then we're going to route some lines and I think that's gonna be it for today well we just had our first casualty of this build and it is a clutch bolt look at that it just sheared when I was trying to torque it so I think that since I don't want this to happen on the road and these are getting put under a significant amount of pressure I think I'm going to go to Home Depot and I'm gonna get some great 8 bolts just to replace these because yeah it's it's a setback but it's something that we can we can do hopefully the end of this isn't stuck in that flywheel I hope I'm not gonna have to take off that flywheel but we might have to so as always is two steps forward and one step back all right so I've got a little bit of work done off-camera and yeah you guys make sure that you chase all the threads especially when a car has been sitting for a long time apparently this cars been sitting for three years before I got it so since the flywheel it seems to have been corroded or there was some corrosion on it I just chased the threads this thread chaser from from Harbor Freight it's a m6 by one point oh that's the that's the measurement of the thread here but I also got went to the hardware store and I got these I got some bolts and they should fit the bill now they are they're not grade eight like I said before these are actually grade ten point nine and I'm not sure what the grading scale is for these things but I know that these things are pretty robust and they're galvanized meaning that they are very resistant they have this coating and it's resistant to rust and that's exactly what we want because I don't want any rust going on these and weakening them in any respect so these should fit the bill quite nicely and all I have to do now is put the clutch back on I managed actually to get the broken part of the bolt out of the flywheel so you can see the broken bolt here and the other side is right here it actually came out really quickly but you can see that it was just eating into this corrosion like a little corrosion layer here I did put on some threadlocker but it didn't didn't do much good so yeah make sure your bolts are up to snuff this definitely wasn't so right now I'm just gonna do whatever it is I told you I was gonna do before but now I'm actually gonna do it hopefully hopefully hey guys how's it going everything on my end is going pretty well except for the fact that my brand-new bolt just snapped so yeah there's a second bolt that snapped and this is a good grade it's galvanized and which shouldn't help with strength but it is a brand new bolt and I chased the threads so the threads are clean what I'm thinking is that the factory service manual is wrong so the factory service manual is probably not even from Lamborghini factory but yeah it said to do it up to 70 Newton meters which is around 51 foot-pounds and that's that's way too much the problem is I can't even put it to like 30 foot pounds because if I put it to 30 foot-pounds this just spins until it snaps the most I can get it to is like 20 foot pounds so I think if I can't figure out a solution then that's what I'm gonna have to do but I I think I'm gonna stop here for tonight just because it's literally midnight and I want to hear from you guys I don't want to go further on this because if I button everything up and I did something wrong then I'm gonna have to take everything back off again and the way this thing broke I'm gonna have to take off the clutch put the transmission on there then take it off again when it's aligned so it's it's a it's a pain in the butt but I need your help you guys can maybe help me some people that have twin disc clutch 'iz especially spec what's torque rating on these bolts these are brand new bolts and I chase the threads everything should go together well I am using some blue thread Locker so just like the the factory service manual instructed me to so what torque specs are you guys using have you run into this problem before and no I'm not going to just leave one bolt out even though there are nine bolts in there and I'm not not doing that not on a car like this not on a car with this much power yeah I'm a little I'm a little bummed to be honest with you I'm a little bummed I'm tired and but we will get this done we will get this done hopefully tomorrow and tomorrow's episode sorry this episode wasn't more fruitful and we didn't get more done it might might be actually pretty short but I wanted to let you guys know what the reality is of working on these things sometimes they don't go together all that well so yeah yeah I'm just gonna have to lick my wounds and we'll try again tomorrow but I would like your feedback so that's it for today's episode stay tuned tomorrow when we maybe get some more stuff done oh if you'd like to contact me you can reach me at the worlds of RSS Instagram and Twitter Facebook commerce and asked Avars at gmail.com is my email I read every single one you guys have been really good at giving me tips and tricks and I hope you guys give me some tips for this so this is a very tired me reminding you guys that on cars like this that need some work to get running you guys need to wrench every day\n"