**Building a 5x5x5 Cube with LEDs**
We're going to need 125 of these cubes, which all need to be tested beforehand because the soldering LED inside the cube is a big pain in the ass. But before we start soldering anything, we're going to need a case as a base where we can also hide the few electronic components inside.
I came up with a simple box design with a height of only 36 millimeter which I think looks way better than my EBS cube with a height of 56 millimeter. The grid of 25 LEDs per layer are spaced to each other with a distance of around 30 millimeter, which firstly makes it possible to see even the smallest LEDs from every angle and secondly determines the outer dimensions to 220 by 220 millimeter.
To mount those LED layers, they also need to exist a grid of small 0.8 millimeter holes in the top section, which I can use later on to insert my silver copper wire, which will act as a 3D mesh to secure my LEDs and power them simultaneously.
The front has two round holes for the main switch and a potentiometer, which I can use later to set the brightness of the LEDs. The back piece has a rectangular cutout for the DC power jack.
**Creating the Case**
Once the plan was done, I used In scape to create a vector graphic of each case piece, which you can also download for reference if you visit my Instructables article about this project (link is in description).
Afterwards, I used a rotary tool to cut out 300 by 300 millimeter pieces of three millimeter thick acrylic glass. Now I could have made the whole case with such power tools just like I did my previous case for the 4x4x4 cube, but since I wanted to use my x-carve for quite a while, I secured my acrylic pieces into place and loaded my SVG files from Inkscape into the easel software.
After I did some fine adjustments and changed the material type, I was ready for my first carve. Unfortunately, it turned out terrible - the milling bits went too deep into the material and melted the acrylic glass, which immediately wrapped itself around the bits. The solution was to decrease the layer depth and afterwards the milling process was a big success.
**Assembling the Case**
Once all the pieces were created, I used wire cutters to free them from that high prison and used a bit of rust treatment to make all the other surfaces smooth. I also glued the DC inputs in its place before the case was complete for now.
Afterwards, I added four rubber feeds on the bottom side. While I was at it, I also created around 60 pieces of silver copper wire with a length of 20 centimeter but since this curly wire is not useful for this, I use two pliers and a bit of force to straighten them all out.
**Starting the Q Construction**
To start the soldering process, I firstly bend the pins of 25 LEDs in this manner, notice that the round side faces left for the first wall. Then, I mark the 15 point 5 centimeter spots on the first cup of string and so loud my LED onto it, so that the underside has a distance of 15 point 5 centimeter from the base plate.
Afterwards, another LED can be soldered onto the same two copper wires right above the base plate. You need to repeat this process until all the wires of the first wall have the top and bottom LED.
**Conclusion**
Until then, don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and now we'll see you next time in a week with Porto.
WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enif you watch my videos often then you know I love LEDs and especially so-called LED cubes basically a three dimensional arrangement of single color or RGB LEDs which can create custom animations or just beautiful color patterns now building the main cube is pretty straightforward and not that complicated but the circuits that controls all of the LEDs and the programming around it can be very confusing and daunting especially for beginners so in this two-part video series I will show you how to build a simpler version of a five by five by five RGB LED cube the LED driver circuits only consists of an Arduino Nano nothing else and with the help of complimentary parts this project is more like a big soldering practice and through the fast LED library programming is rather simple but if you're not into coding there already exists a couple of example animations which is really cool let's get started the main component of this builds are PL 9 a 2 3 8 millimeter LEDs those have an integrated control circuit which means we only need to send a 24 bit data signal to them which consists of a desired color and they do the rest by daisy chaining the data outwards to the next data in we can control a lot of them with only one digital pin of the arduino and of course 4 5 by 5 by 5 cube we're going to need 125 of them which all need to be tested beforehand because the sorrowing LED inside the cube is a big pain in the ass but before soldering anything we're going to need a case as a base where we can also hide the few electronic components inside I came up with a simple box design with a height of only 36 millimeter which I think looks way better than my EBS cube with a height of 56 millimeter the grid of 25 LEDs per layer are spaced to each other with a distance of around 30 millimeter which firstly makes it possible to see even the Santa LEDs from every angle and secondly determines the outer dimensions to 220 by 220 millimeter and to mount those LED layers they also need to exist the grid of small 0.8 millimeter holes in the top section I can use those later on to insert my silver copper wire which will act as a 3d mesh to secure my LEDs and power them simultaneously the front has two round holes for the main switch and a potentiometer which I can use later to set the brightness of the leds and the back piece has a rectangular cutout for the DC power jack once the plan was done I used in scape to create a vector graphic of each case piece which you can also download for reference if you visit my Instructables article about this project link is in description afterwards I used rotary tool to cut out 300 by 300 millimeter pieces of three millimeter thick acrylic glass now I could have made the whole case with such power tools just like I did my previous case for the 4 by 4 by 4 cube but since I wanted to use my x-carve for quite a while I secured my acrylic pieces into place and loaded my SVG files from Inkscape into the easel software after I did some fine adjustments and changed the material type I was ready for my first carve which turned out terrible the milling bits went too deep into the material and melted the acrylic glass which immediately wrapped itself around the bits the solution was to decrease the layer depth and afterwards the milling process was a big success but again just because you don't have such a machine doesn't mean that you cannot make this case once all the pieces were created I used wire cutters to free them from that high prison and used a bit of rust treatment to make all the other surfaces smooth and the cutouts for the electrical components a bit bigger after the test assembly worked out well I used a couple of hot glue drops to create the shape of the case temporarily before I use two component adhesive to glue it all together permanently and while I was edits I also glued the DC inputs in its place before the case was complete for now I also added four rubber feeds on the bottom side afterwards I created around 60 pieces of silver copper wire with a length of 20 centimeter but since this curly wire is not useful for this I use two pliers and a bit of force to straighten them all out then we can finally start the Q construction by inserting ten copper wires into the holes of the first led wall and to make things a bit easier I also used a bit of hot glue to secure the top section to the main base so that it wouldn't slide around to start the soldering process I firstly bend the pins of 25 LEDs in this manner notice that the round side faces left for the first wall then I mark the 15 point 5 centimeter spots on the first cup of string and so loud my LED onto it so that the underside has a distance of 15 point 5 centimeter from the base plate afterwards another LED can be soldered onto the same two copper wires right above the base plate you need to repeat this process until all the wires of the first wall have the top and bottom LED and after I used my diagonal cutter to remove the unnecessary axis of the virus and LEDs I created small two point five centimeter pieces of the silver copper wire which I will show you how to use in the next part until then don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and now we'll see you next time in a week with Porto until then youif you watch my videos often then you know I love LEDs and especially so-called LED cubes basically a three dimensional arrangement of single color or RGB LEDs which can create custom animations or just beautiful color patterns now building the main cube is pretty straightforward and not that complicated but the circuits that controls all of the LEDs and the programming around it can be very confusing and daunting especially for beginners so in this two-part video series I will show you how to build a simpler version of a five by five by five RGB LED cube the LED driver circuits only consists of an Arduino Nano nothing else and with the help of complimentary parts this project is more like a big soldering practice and through the fast LED library programming is rather simple but if you're not into coding there already exists a couple of example animations which is really cool let's get started the main component of this builds are PL 9 a 2 3 8 millimeter LEDs those have an integrated control circuit which means we only need to send a 24 bit data signal to them which consists of a desired color and they do the rest by daisy chaining the data outwards to the next data in we can control a lot of them with only one digital pin of the arduino and of course 4 5 by 5 by 5 cube we're going to need 125 of them which all need to be tested beforehand because the sorrowing LED inside the cube is a big pain in the ass but before soldering anything we're going to need a case as a base where we can also hide the few electronic components inside I came up with a simple box design with a height of only 36 millimeter which I think looks way better than my EBS cube with a height of 56 millimeter the grid of 25 LEDs per layer are spaced to each other with a distance of around 30 millimeter which firstly makes it possible to see even the Santa LEDs from every angle and secondly determines the outer dimensions to 220 by 220 millimeter and to mount those LED layers they also need to exist the grid of small 0.8 millimeter holes in the top section I can use those later on to insert my silver copper wire which will act as a 3d mesh to secure my LEDs and power them simultaneously the front has two round holes for the main switch and a potentiometer which I can use later to set the brightness of the leds and the back piece has a rectangular cutout for the DC power jack once the plan was done I used in scape to create a vector graphic of each case piece which you can also download for reference if you visit my Instructables article about this project link is in description afterwards I used rotary tool to cut out 300 by 300 millimeter pieces of three millimeter thick acrylic glass now I could have made the whole case with such power tools just like I did my previous case for the 4 by 4 by 4 cube but since I wanted to use my x-carve for quite a while I secured my acrylic pieces into place and loaded my SVG files from Inkscape into the easel software after I did some fine adjustments and changed the material type I was ready for my first carve which turned out terrible the milling bits went too deep into the material and melted the acrylic glass which immediately wrapped itself around the bits the solution was to decrease the layer depth and afterwards the milling process was a big success but again just because you don't have such a machine doesn't mean that you cannot make this case once all the pieces were created I used wire cutters to free them from that high prison and used a bit of rust treatment to make all the other surfaces smooth and the cutouts for the electrical components a bit bigger after the test assembly worked out well I used a couple of hot glue drops to create the shape of the case temporarily before I use two component adhesive to glue it all together permanently and while I was edits I also glued the DC inputs in its place before the case was complete for now I also added four rubber feeds on the bottom side afterwards I created around 60 pieces of silver copper wire with a length of 20 centimeter but since this curly wire is not useful for this I use two pliers and a bit of force to straighten them all out then we can finally start the Q construction by inserting ten copper wires into the holes of the first led wall and to make things a bit easier I also used a bit of hot glue to secure the top section to the main base so that it wouldn't slide around to start the soldering process I firstly bend the pins of 25 LEDs in this manner notice that the round side faces left for the first wall then I mark the 15 point 5 centimeter spots on the first cup of string and so loud my LED onto it so that the underside has a distance of 15 point 5 centimeter from the base plate afterwards another LED can be soldered onto the same two copper wires right above the base plate you need to repeat this process until all the wires of the first wall have the top and bottom LED and after I used my diagonal cutter to remove the unnecessary axis of the virus and LEDs I created small two point five centimeter pieces of the silver copper wire which I will show you how to use in the next part until then don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and now we'll see you next time in a week with Porto until then you
