Installing a Garden Door: A Step-by-Step Guide

As we begin our installation process, it's essential to note that this project requires some patience and DIY skills. The first step is to locate the bottom sill of the door frame, which can be a challenging task. We're using a big opening screen here, so nobody will be walking through this area now. There is a weather strip, but we don't think it's usually possible to hide the screw on this side because the metal sill is underneath there.

To overcome this obstacle, we'll have to go right through here and into the SIL (Self-Adjusting Latch) must come right back there. We're hoping that the wood frame will be in place, but since it's not, we'll need to drill a hole to get us through the aluminum. This is because aluminum can be quite stubborn when it comes to screwing into it. So, we've got our drill bit ready and are going to start drilling a small hole.

Now that we have our hole drilled, we're going to place a couple of shims over here, which will help keep the bottom sill from moving when people walk through. We'll use these shims to secure the door in place, making sure it's stable and even. The next step is to cut all these shims and snap them off, so if we just take our utility knife, we can cut about halfway through at least on this type of shim that we're using, they'll just stop breaking off nice and clean.

With the shimming and securing done, we're now ready to hang the actual doors. We've got the swinging door, which is the entry door, and we're going to set it up with the hinges. The camera guy will drop a couple of pins in for me while I'm holding it in place, making sure everything is secure and even. It looks like this one's going to be alright; let's knock these pins right in.

Before we proceed, let's take a closer look at our door hinges. You might notice that the hinges are swinging out, with the pins on the outside of the door frame. At first glance, it seems counterintuitive, but these hinges are actually made to be tamper-proof. They have a little rib in there that prevents the pins from being easily removed.

To install the door correctly, we'll need to tighten this set screw up once the pins are dropped in. The set screw goes into this little rib and secures the pin in place. This makes it difficult for thieves or intruders to pry open the door. We didn't mention this on the other side of the door; I'll have to loosen that one a bit with an Allen wrench to get started.

Now that we've got our screen side hung, we're ready to hook up the mechanism. This is essentially just like old-school window mechanism clips onto those little clips, which lock and close when they shut. There are also locks on the inside that may need to be adjusted for security purposes. We'll also attach a big screen that pops on there; I'm pretty sure you can figure out how to install it yourself.

As we finish up our installation process, it's essential to remember that this door will require some TLC and work to get it looking decent again. However, by following these steps and checking out our other videos and articles on the website and YouTube channel, you'll be well-equipped to tackle any renovation project that comes your way.

The finished garden door is now complete, with a secure mechanism, shims for stability, and tamper-proof hinges to prevent break-ins. It's a great DIY project that can add value and functionality to any home or garden. With patience, attention to detail, and the right tools, you can install a beautiful and secure garden door that will enhance your outdoor space for years to come.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enhi I'm Shannon from host improvements comm and I'm going to show you today how to install a set of garden doors some people might call them French doors basically what I have is a it looks like a double set of doors from the outside but one side is actually a door and the other side is just a large opening window with a screen so we've got our got our opening here to start with and I've already gone ahead and installed the membrane that you may recognise if you watch some of my window videos you would have seen me put this on already so basically I created a sill pan down at the bottom with the membrane and as well as some protection along the edges and across the top so I didn't bother showing that on this video you can see me do that on some of my other window videos on the YouTube channel so okay so that's all in place one of the first things I want to do is just take the frame set it into place and just kind of dry fit it and see what all I have to do as far as shimming it so this is a this is actually a used set of doors as you might be able to tell so first of all I just want to make sure it fits into the frame or into the opening I mean so it definitely does so that's good next thing I want to check for is see what I need to do to get the bottom sill level and use some shims do some monkeying around to get all that leveled up and then once I know that I can see how I am for getting things plumb from side to side I'm just going to grab one smaller level and I should have just gave this a bit of a check before I had that in so I'll just kick the bottom out and just just placing my four foot level right across where the door is going to sit and I'm just trying to see how level this is to start with in the floor it looks like that's my highest side so I can start my level down at that end and I'm just going to place a shim boat in the middle of where the door would sit until I've got my bubble good on the level now I can slide the level down to this end I'm still sitting on the shim because I know that was level to that point and I can adjust this other side now you're not going to be able to see this very well but I'm just sticking a shim under the level so basically I've got these shims I just cut them out of out of cedar shingles second or third grade shingles that are fairly inexpensive but you can buy packages of shims right at the at the lumber store okay so those two shims will basically level my bottom up so I've got a level rate under this or sorry a shim rate under this part of the door and the shim under that side of this jam and that jamb is going to sit right down on the floor so once we get a little further along I will install some other aimes out here in the center but we just need to get the mean main area so sitting level so I'm just going to lift this in onto those shims and luckily it still fits in the opening that's always a bonus okay so I've got it sitting there again remember I'm just doing kind of a dry fit here so then on the inside I'm just looking at the reveal between the actual frame and the and the wall framing the opening I want to kind of equal that up if I can but I also need to be able to get these jams plumb and the most important ones to be plumb are the ones that the doors are hinged on which in this case are the two outside edges so I'm going to use my longer level here stick it on this side I'm just going to get an idea for so that's good we're in River it's sitting just to see that that's plumb and then I just look inside here and I can see that I don't have a lot of clearance in this opening but I'm pretty nice right there luckily the opening was pretty plum so that really helped so if that side was sitting plumb this side probably should be outsides right on to and I've got more space here so I'm going to be able to actually shift the whole frame over to my left here just a little bit just to Center it in the opening and give a little bit of extra room for for insulation okay so I know that my frame is going to fit I'm going to pop it back out I'm going to run a bead of silicone around the outer edge of the opening and across the bottom and then I can set the frame in there and start actually getting it installed I'm just going to lift this out set it out of the way here okay so what I've got is just some exterior grade silicone now you you might uh notice that this door had a brick mold on it wood brick mold even if your door had a nailing flange basically this this process would be very similar the only thing I guess with the nailing flange is this would not be on yet you would have the bottom sill pan gasket on but this side and the top wouldn't go on yet you'd install your door with the bead of silicone against the wood between the wood and nailing flange and then do your membrane but you can see that in if you check out a couple different my window videos you'll see the difference there so in this case with the brick mold we're going to silicone right on to the membrane the membrane is just an extra barrier against moisture infiltration so I'm putting a nice generous bead right down the side here and a little bit bigger blob right in the corner and go across the top doing the same thing staying down pretty close to my edge of my opening to be sure that my brick mold is going to get embedded into it right around the corner and down this side okay down to the bottom and a pretty good blob in the corner again that blob just helps seal up that corner where there generally can end up being a gap now as far as the bottom goes I'm just going to look on the bottom of my sill of the door and this one's completely solid and flat on the bottom so I can place my large bead of silicone along the bottom there pretty well anywhere some of them the the aluminum part will have some ribs in it so you need to take a look under there and make sure that wherever you're putting that bead you are actually going to make contact with the silicone or you're kind of defeating the purpose so I'm going to keep mine like I said that solid under there I'm going to keep mine right out near the front edge and I'm going to put a really nice bead across there this does a couple different things this stops some drafts that stop some critters got kind of a gunky tube of caulking here getting into some ugly-looking silicone I better change to a new tube just bear with me for a second okay so actually I'm going to get rid of that ugly silicone just in case just where it started getting looks like that some reason part of that tube was frozen I don't know why that's strange I'm going to get rid of that just in case I didn't have any clear but I've got some white of the same thing so we'll just finish thought you'll be able to see that even better so I'm putting a nice big bead there and go right over that shim we'll just flip that shim over stick it in there and go over it again okay so we've got that I got around all the other edge so now I can set the frame back in there again careful not stepping that and when you're setting it in once you got the silicone in you want to kind of go a little bit methodically so that you don't just smear that bead all over flatten it out before you wanted it flattened out so I'm kind of leaving the frame tipped until I'm pretty much right in there now I'll lean the whole thing in and push it into that silicone there so okay so now I'm just going back in double-checking my space so I go to go back that way some so I'm just providing equal or close to equal space on each side that's looking pretty good okay so I think we'll just switch camera angles here and then I'll show you exactly what I'm doing okay so now we're going to just take some shims and I'm going to start down here at the bottom depending on your gap you may have to put your shims you know together to take up the space looks like I'm going to have to do that we just want to place that shimmy in so let's just snug right there right now then I'm going to take a screw and I just want to hold this in place so nothing moves around since I've got it started and what I'm doing is just pulling the weatherstrip out a little bit and placing the screw so it's kind of hidden in behind that weather strip and I'm staying down nice and low pushing on the frame sucked over pretty good so should be good there I'm just going to take my long level then stick it right on the hinge side and I just want to get it with some other shims at the top so that my frame is plumb from top to bottom because I'm using such a long level I can actually do the very bottom and the very top if you're only using a four-foot level what you'd want to do because it only reaches so far right so this one reaches the middle hinge so then I would put the next set of hinges behind the middle and then I would just simply hold this up here and do the top this level it's tall enough to do pretty much the whole thing so I'm just going to get in the way here for a minute stick a couple hint Sims in here great across from the head jamb great till I've got the level nice and plumb okay and I'm in fact going to just put a little extra shim in there little extra thickness because when I put my screw and it's probably going to tighten it up and and suck it over just a little bit so and again same thing I'm just pulling out that weather strip at the top so that I can tuck a screw in behind it nice and neat push the frame in I'm using 3-inch number 8 wood screws there so that I can get back into some real good wood and everything's nice and solid just recheck my level it still looks good so now I'm just going to go over to the other side here just have a quick look it should be yeah we're not pulling anything out of shape it should be good so now what I want to do my other I want to make sure I have shims behind each hinge so now we we know we've got the top and bottom spaced out good I'm going to move the level in here so you can see better what I want to do is shim this so that there's no no space between the level and the frame itself you know I don't I want the frame to be straight I'm not sure if you can even tell that but basically I just want the I'm trying to straighten the frame more than anything and I'm going to put these in these shims right behind the center hinge to start with okay so now I've got too much shim in there because I'm tight here but I've actually pulled the level away at the top and bottom so this Jam is in essence bold like that so I may only need one thickness in there break little bit off actually pretty good there already so so now with this one I'm using the three inch screw again but I'm actually going to put it in through one of the hinge holes and actually I'll slide my shim down I thought I was low enough I want to try to have my shim close to that hole so I'm hopefully screwing right through it so take out one of the inner screws in the hinge and go right through that back into the wood okay and I'll just double check yeah we still look good there so I'm going to do the same thing at the other two hinges and then we'll go over to the other side and really just repeat repeat the same process again I'm just sewing right through the hinge double-check that's all good that upper one was nice where it was sitting so I'll just snug the shim in there we're going to need one there okay so we not only have the shims at the very top right across from the cell down here and the one up here right across from the header but we've also now installed a shim behind each hinge as well okay so that side should be nice I guess I can double check it again shouldn't have done anything there yeah we're all good so I'm going to go over to the other side repeat the same process and then I'll explain what to do for shimming the top and bottom and then we can start putting the doors in okay so we've got both sides all shimmed and screwed now I'm going to go up top to the center and remember we place that one shim down on the floor rate under this Center mullion because that was level so I should be able to place another shim up top here between the header in this mullion and not just kind of make sure there's some pressure down on there I will just double-check that staying level there we have we are so that's good so I've just got that snugged in there so now I'm going to get do the same thing with the weatherstrip oh here just place a screw just behind the weather strip I just like doing that because it kind of hides that screw okay I'm going to do one on this side too this just gives this frame some strength so if this door slams or whatever just gives it some strength even for somebody trying to break in it makes a little more rigid they can't get in there as easy okay so we got that now we're going to go down to the bottom here and insert a couple screws I guess before we do that we will just double check that our sill is level still and it is I'm just going to put a couple shims under here you can see there's a you can't see there you'll have to trust me there's some space between the bottom of the sill here and the floor because of the shimming that we did previously so I'm just going to slide a shimmy and just just until it just snugs up that space that was there do a couple of ones this on this side especially this is the side that people are going to be walking through and they're going to be stepping on this bottom sill so you don't want it moving all over the place so you get another one over here yeah I'm just getting those in until they're till they're just snug okay and we'll stick one over on this side the side isn't nearly as critical and actually this side was I don't think there's very much room there get one in there this side actually just has a big opening screen so nobody will be walking through this this area now there's there's no why I guess there is weather strip but I don't think usually you can't hide the screw on this bottom yeah because the metal sill is underneath there so I'm just going to have to go right through here and this SIL must go right back there so I'm going to have to drill a hole so that aluminium on this one must come right back I was hoping I'd be into this wood here I'm not so I will need to drill a bit of a hole just to get us through that aluminium that okay so we've got that side we're going to stick a couple over here through these shims as well just go to a little bit smaller drill bit okay so we'll place a screw through each shim there and now should keep this bottom sill from moving when people are walking through okay so that's got the basic shimming and securing all done what I do at this point then is I cut all these shims and snap them off so if you just take your utility knife usually as long as you can get cut about half way through at least on this type of shim that I'm using they'll just stop break off nice and clean so I'm just going to continue doing that all the way around and then we'll go to hanging the actual doors okay so we're around to the outside now with the camera angle and I've got the door this is the swinging door the actual entry door and I'm going to set it line up these parts of the hinges into the ones that are mounted on the frame and the camera guy is going to drop a couple pins in for me while I'm holding it in place okay so we've got the pin started in there I'm just making sure the door doesn't bind it looks like it's going to be alright so I'll knock these pins right in and you just want to look look at your clearances around here that they're equal and the door isn't binding or anything when you open and close it looks like this one's going to be alright now the one thing we have left to do is put the screen side on for this garden door but something I didn't mention before we put that hinge on you notice that these doors are swinging out and that the hinges the the pins are on the outside so you might think that hole boy that'd be an easy door to break into why would they do that well these these hinges are actually made so that they are tapped basically tamper proof so you'll you'll look for one that has a bit of a rib in there's usually only one per door there's a little bit of a rib right in here and then you have to look on the hinges for a little we set screw you can maybe see that one right there what that does is once these pins are dropped in in fact that set screw I might have to back out once the pins are dropped in you tighten that set screw up it goes into this little rib and then the cat a thief or somebody trying to break in can't pry this pin outta there they might be able to get the other ones out they won't be able to get them all out so it's just an anti break-in sort of a deal ok so I didn't mention that on the other one I'm going to have to loosen this one out a little bit so I'll have to get a allen wrench for that but and then we'll we'll hang the store ok so we've got the screen side hung now we just have to hook up the mechanism it opens and closes it so it's basically just like old school window mechanism clips onto those little clips they're closed these locks and then it dysfunctions like that there's also locks on the inside that you may have to adjust that lock it shut for security for for the evening there is a big screen that pops on there but I'm pretty sure you can figure out how to install out yourself so other than basically putting the screen on putting in our knob and deadbolt the stores basically complete that's going to take a little TLC a little paint and work to get it looking decent again but I thought it was a good chance to show you how to install a garden door and like I said we did skip the odd little step here and there but you can see a lot of those on our other videos for instance the membrane on the outside insulating around the inside and sealing up with the vapor barrier as well as the doorknob so if you want to check those out on our youtube channel you can do that we also have some articles on the website at house improvements comm that you can read through there and I guess on the website there's the forum as well so check it out thanks for watchinghi I'm Shannon from host improvements comm and I'm going to show you today how to install a set of garden doors some people might call them French doors basically what I have is a it looks like a double set of doors from the outside but one side is actually a door and the other side is just a large opening window with a screen so we've got our got our opening here to start with and I've already gone ahead and installed the membrane that you may recognise if you watch some of my window videos you would have seen me put this on already so basically I created a sill pan down at the bottom with the membrane and as well as some protection along the edges and across the top so I didn't bother showing that on this video you can see me do that on some of my other window videos on the YouTube channel so okay so that's all in place one of the first things I want to do is just take the frame set it into place and just kind of dry fit it and see what all I have to do as far as shimming it so this is a this is actually a used set of doors as you might be able to tell so first of all I just want to make sure it fits into the frame or into the opening I mean so it definitely does so that's good next thing I want to check for is see what I need to do to get the bottom sill level and use some shims do some monkeying around to get all that leveled up and then once I know that I can see how I am for getting things plumb from side to side I'm just going to grab one smaller level and I should have just gave this a bit of a check before I had that in so I'll just kick the bottom out and just just placing my four foot level right across where the door is going to sit and I'm just trying to see how level this is to start with in the floor it looks like that's my highest side so I can start my level down at that end and I'm just going to place a shim boat in the middle of where the door would sit until I've got my bubble good on the level now I can slide the level down to this end I'm still sitting on the shim because I know that was level to that point and I can adjust this other side now you're not going to be able to see this very well but I'm just sticking a shim under the level so basically I've got these shims I just cut them out of out of cedar shingles second or third grade shingles that are fairly inexpensive but you can buy packages of shims right at the at the lumber store okay so those two shims will basically level my bottom up so I've got a level rate under this or sorry a shim rate under this part of the door and the shim under that side of this jam and that jamb is going to sit right down on the floor so once we get a little further along I will install some other aimes out here in the center but we just need to get the mean main area so sitting level so I'm just going to lift this in onto those shims and luckily it still fits in the opening that's always a bonus okay so I've got it sitting there again remember I'm just doing kind of a dry fit here so then on the inside I'm just looking at the reveal between the actual frame and the and the wall framing the opening I want to kind of equal that up if I can but I also need to be able to get these jams plumb and the most important ones to be plumb are the ones that the doors are hinged on which in this case are the two outside edges so I'm going to use my longer level here stick it on this side I'm just going to get an idea for so that's good we're in River it's sitting just to see that that's plumb and then I just look inside here and I can see that I don't have a lot of clearance in this opening but I'm pretty nice right there luckily the opening was pretty plum so that really helped so if that side was sitting plumb this side probably should be outsides right on to and I've got more space here so I'm going to be able to actually shift the whole frame over to my left here just a little bit just to Center it in the opening and give a little bit of extra room for for insulation okay so I know that my frame is going to fit I'm going to pop it back out I'm going to run a bead of silicone around the outer edge of the opening and across the bottom and then I can set the frame in there and start actually getting it installed I'm just going to lift this out set it out of the way here okay so what I've got is just some exterior grade silicone now you you might uh notice that this door had a brick mold on it wood brick mold even if your door had a nailing flange basically this this process would be very similar the only thing I guess with the nailing flange is this would not be on yet you would have the bottom sill pan gasket on but this side and the top wouldn't go on yet you'd install your door with the bead of silicone against the wood between the wood and nailing flange and then do your membrane but you can see that in if you check out a couple different my window videos you'll see the difference there so in this case with the brick mold we're going to silicone right on to the membrane the membrane is just an extra barrier against moisture infiltration so I'm putting a nice generous bead right down the side here and a little bit bigger blob right in the corner and go across the top doing the same thing staying down pretty close to my edge of my opening to be sure that my brick mold is going to get embedded into it right around the corner and down this side okay down to the bottom and a pretty good blob in the corner again that blob just helps seal up that corner where there generally can end up being a gap now as far as the bottom goes I'm just going to look on the bottom of my sill of the door and this one's completely solid and flat on the bottom so I can place my large bead of silicone along the bottom there pretty well anywhere some of them the the aluminum part will have some ribs in it so you need to take a look under there and make sure that wherever you're putting that bead you are actually going to make contact with the silicone or you're kind of defeating the purpose so I'm going to keep mine like I said that solid under there I'm going to keep mine right out near the front edge and I'm going to put a really nice bead across there this does a couple different things this stops some drafts that stop some critters got kind of a gunky tube of caulking here getting into some ugly-looking silicone I better change to a new tube just bear with me for a second okay so actually I'm going to get rid of that ugly silicone just in case just where it started getting looks like that some reason part of that tube was frozen I don't know why that's strange I'm going to get rid of that just in case I didn't have any clear but I've got some white of the same thing so we'll just finish thought you'll be able to see that even better so I'm putting a nice big bead there and go right over that shim we'll just flip that shim over stick it in there and go over it again okay so we've got that I got around all the other edge so now I can set the frame back in there again careful not stepping that and when you're setting it in once you got the silicone in you want to kind of go a little bit methodically so that you don't just smear that bead all over flatten it out before you wanted it flattened out so I'm kind of leaving the frame tipped until I'm pretty much right in there now I'll lean the whole thing in and push it into that silicone there so okay so now I'm just going back in double-checking my space so I go to go back that way some so I'm just providing equal or close to equal space on each side that's looking pretty good okay so I think we'll just switch camera angles here and then I'll show you exactly what I'm doing okay so now we're going to just take some shims and I'm going to start down here at the bottom depending on your gap you may have to put your shims you know together to take up the space looks like I'm going to have to do that we just want to place that shimmy in so let's just snug right there right now then I'm going to take a screw and I just want to hold this in place so nothing moves around since I've got it started and what I'm doing is just pulling the weatherstrip out a little bit and placing the screw so it's kind of hidden in behind that weather strip and I'm staying down nice and low pushing on the frame sucked over pretty good so should be good there I'm just going to take my long level then stick it right on the hinge side and I just want to get it with some other shims at the top so that my frame is plumb from top to bottom because I'm using such a long level I can actually do the very bottom and the very top if you're only using a four-foot level what you'd want to do because it only reaches so far right so this one reaches the middle hinge so then I would put the next set of hinges behind the middle and then I would just simply hold this up here and do the top this level it's tall enough to do pretty much the whole thing so I'm just going to get in the way here for a minute stick a couple hint Sims in here great across from the head jamb great till I've got the level nice and plumb okay and I'm in fact going to just put a little extra shim in there little extra thickness because when I put my screw and it's probably going to tighten it up and and suck it over just a little bit so and again same thing I'm just pulling out that weather strip at the top so that I can tuck a screw in behind it nice and neat push the frame in I'm using 3-inch number 8 wood screws there so that I can get back into some real good wood and everything's nice and solid just recheck my level it still looks good so now I'm just going to go over to the other side here just have a quick look it should be yeah we're not pulling anything out of shape it should be good so now what I want to do my other I want to make sure I have shims behind each hinge so now we we know we've got the top and bottom spaced out good I'm going to move the level in here so you can see better what I want to do is shim this so that there's no no space between the level and the frame itself you know I don't I want the frame to be straight I'm not sure if you can even tell that but basically I just want the I'm trying to straighten the frame more than anything and I'm going to put these in these shims right behind the center hinge to start with okay so now I've got too much shim in there because I'm tight here but I've actually pulled the level away at the top and bottom so this Jam is in essence bold like that so I may only need one thickness in there break little bit off actually pretty good there already so so now with this one I'm using the three inch screw again but I'm actually going to put it in through one of the hinge holes and actually I'll slide my shim down I thought I was low enough I want to try to have my shim close to that hole so I'm hopefully screwing right through it so take out one of the inner screws in the hinge and go right through that back into the wood okay and I'll just double check yeah we still look good there so I'm going to do the same thing at the other two hinges and then we'll go over to the other side and really just repeat repeat the same process again I'm just sewing right through the hinge double-check that's all good that upper one was nice where it was sitting so I'll just snug the shim in there we're going to need one there okay so we not only have the shims at the very top right across from the cell down here and the one up here right across from the header but we've also now installed a shim behind each hinge as well okay so that side should be nice I guess I can double check it again shouldn't have done anything there yeah we're all good so I'm going to go over to the other side repeat the same process and then I'll explain what to do for shimming the top and bottom and then we can start putting the doors in okay so we've got both sides all shimmed and screwed now I'm going to go up top to the center and remember we place that one shim down on the floor rate under this Center mullion because that was level so I should be able to place another shim up top here between the header in this mullion and not just kind of make sure there's some pressure down on there I will just double-check that staying level there we have we are so that's good so I've just got that snugged in there so now I'm going to get do the same thing with the weatherstrip oh here just place a screw just behind the weather strip I just like doing that because it kind of hides that screw okay I'm going to do one on this side too this just gives this frame some strength so if this door slams or whatever just gives it some strength even for somebody trying to break in it makes a little more rigid they can't get in there as easy okay so we got that now we're going to go down to the bottom here and insert a couple screws I guess before we do that we will just double check that our sill is level still and it is I'm just going to put a couple shims under here you can see there's a you can't see there you'll have to trust me there's some space between the bottom of the sill here and the floor because of the shimming that we did previously so I'm just going to slide a shimmy and just just until it just snugs up that space that was there do a couple of ones this on this side especially this is the side that people are going to be walking through and they're going to be stepping on this bottom sill so you don't want it moving all over the place so you get another one over here yeah I'm just getting those in until they're till they're just snug okay and we'll stick one over on this side the side isn't nearly as critical and actually this side was I don't think there's very much room there get one in there this side actually just has a big opening screen so nobody will be walking through this this area now there's there's no why I guess there is weather strip but I don't think usually you can't hide the screw on this bottom yeah because the metal sill is underneath there so I'm just going to have to go right through here and this SIL must go right back there so I'm going to have to drill a hole so that aluminium on this one must come right back I was hoping I'd be into this wood here I'm not so I will need to drill a bit of a hole just to get us through that aluminium that okay so we've got that side we're going to stick a couple over here through these shims as well just go to a little bit smaller drill bit okay so we'll place a screw through each shim there and now should keep this bottom sill from moving when people are walking through okay so that's got the basic shimming and securing all done what I do at this point then is I cut all these shims and snap them off so if you just take your utility knife usually as long as you can get cut about half way through at least on this type of shim that I'm using they'll just stop break off nice and clean so I'm just going to continue doing that all the way around and then we'll go to hanging the actual doors okay so we're around to the outside now with the camera angle and I've got the door this is the swinging door the actual entry door and I'm going to set it line up these parts of the hinges into the ones that are mounted on the frame and the camera guy is going to drop a couple pins in for me while I'm holding it in place okay so we've got the pin started in there I'm just making sure the door doesn't bind it looks like it's going to be alright so I'll knock these pins right in and you just want to look look at your clearances around here that they're equal and the door isn't binding or anything when you open and close it looks like this one's going to be alright now the one thing we have left to do is put the screen side on for this garden door but something I didn't mention before we put that hinge on you notice that these doors are swinging out and that the hinges the the pins are on the outside so you might think that hole boy that'd be an easy door to break into why would they do that well these these hinges are actually made so that they are tapped basically tamper proof so you'll you'll look for one that has a bit of a rib in there's usually only one per door there's a little bit of a rib right in here and then you have to look on the hinges for a little we set screw you can maybe see that one right there what that does is once these pins are dropped in in fact that set screw I might have to back out once the pins are dropped in you tighten that set screw up it goes into this little rib and then the cat a thief or somebody trying to break in can't pry this pin outta there they might be able to get the other ones out they won't be able to get them all out so it's just an anti break-in sort of a deal ok so I didn't mention that on the other one I'm going to have to loosen this one out a little bit so I'll have to get a allen wrench for that but and then we'll we'll hang the store ok so we've got the screen side hung now we just have to hook up the mechanism it opens and closes it so it's basically just like old school window mechanism clips onto those little clips they're closed these locks and then it dysfunctions like that there's also locks on the inside that you may have to adjust that lock it shut for security for for the evening there is a big screen that pops on there but I'm pretty sure you can figure out how to install out yourself so other than basically putting the screen on putting in our knob and deadbolt the stores basically complete that's going to take a little TLC a little paint and work to get it looking decent again but I thought it was a good chance to show you how to install a garden door and like I said we did skip the odd little step here and there but you can see a lot of those on our other videos for instance the membrane on the outside insulating around the inside and sealing up with the vapor barrier as well as the doorknob so if you want to check those out on our youtube channel you can do that we also have some articles on the website at house improvements comm that you can read through there and I guess on the website there's the forum as well so check it out thanks for watching\n"