The Sports Car Enthusiast's Dilemma: Is it Worth Investing in a Nissan Z?

For sports car enthusiasts, the Nissan Z is a coveted model that has been around for decades. However, its popularity has waned over time, and sales have slowed significantly. As a result, purchasing a new Z may not be as lucrative a proposition as it once was. The car's performance capabilities, combined with its rich history, make it a sought-after collector's item among enthusiasts.

The problem is that the sports car market as a whole has become less popular in recent years. Many manufacturers have shifted their focus towards more practical vehicles, and sales figures for sports cars reflect this decline. As a result, investing in a Nissan Z may not yield the returns one might expect. While it's true that some high-end sports cars continue to sell well, the market as a whole has become more crowded and competitive.

That being said, for those who are passionate about sports cars, the Nissan Z remains an attractive option. Its rear-wheel drive layout, paired with standard transmissions, makes it a driver's car at heart. The car's history is also fascinating, particularly when compared to other models in its class. Enthusiasts can learn a great deal from studying the design and engineering of the Z, which has been refined over several generations.

One of the most significant challenges facing sports car enthusiasts today is the lack of a strong marketing push behind certain models. In recent years, Nissan has struggled to promote its Z cars effectively, which has resulted in limited sales figures. While this may not be a major concern for individual collectors or enthusiasts, it could have implications for the long-term viability of the model.

For those considering purchasing a Nissan Z, there are a few key things to keep in mind. First and foremost, the car's price is likely to be lower than one might expect, given its performance capabilities and rich history. However, this also means that sales figures may be limited, which could impact resale value over time.

If you're thinking about getting a sports car like a Nissan Z, it's worth waiting to see when they become more widely available on the market. While there have been some rumors of new models in development, nothing has been officially confirmed by the manufacturer. In the meantime, enthusiasts may want to keep an eye out for used or older models that are still available.

In terms of maintenance and repairs, Nissan Z cars have a reputation for being relatively straightforward to work on. However, this doesn't necessarily mean that they're immune to problems. Like many sports cars, the Z is prone to certain issues, such as camshaft wear and head gasket problems. Regular maintenance and inspections are essential to keeping the car in good working order.

For those who have experienced problems with their Nissan Z, there are a few key things to keep in mind when diagnosing and repairing the issue. In some cases, a rough idle may be caused by worn-out spark plugs, which can be easily replaced. However, more serious problems like camshaft wear or head gasket failure require more extensive work.

In some instances, Nissan Z cars have been known to develop strange noises, such as a rattling or ticking sound. While this can be unsettling, it's often caused by worn-out components rather than a major problem with the car itself. In these cases, simply replacing the affected parts can usually resolve the issue.

When it comes to repairing a Nissan Z, one of the most common tools required is a slide hammer. This versatile tool can be used to remove stuck parts or other components that are difficult to access. Additionally, an adjustable wrench with a clamp-on attachment can also come in handy when working on these types of repairs.

If you're struggling to diagnose and repair your Nissan Z, it's worth seeking the advice of a professional mechanic. While many enthusiasts feel comfortable working on their own cars, there are times when specialized knowledge or expertise is required. By taking the time to properly diagnose and repair any issues, you can help ensure that your car runs smoothly and efficiently.

A Stuck CVT in Your Toyota Avalon? Here's How to Fix It

For drivers of certain vehicles, including the Toyota Avalon, a stuck CVT (continuously variable transmission) can be a frustrating problem. When this happens, the CVT becomes jammed or stuck, preventing it from shifting properly. In this article, we'll take a closer look at how to diagnose and fix a stuck CVT in your Toyota Avalon.

One of the most common causes of a stuck CVT is debris or dirt that has accumulated inside the transmission. This can occur when the car is driven over rough terrain or exposed to extreme weather conditions. To fix this problem, simply cleaning out the debris may be enough to resolve the issue. However, in more severe cases, the CVT may need to be replaced.

When diagnosing a stuck CVT, it's essential to use the right tools and techniques. One of the most effective methods is to remove the outer CV joint assembly, which allows for access to the inner workings of the transmission. From there, you can identify any blockages or debris that may be causing the problem. By cleaning out these issues, you can help restore the CVT's proper functioning.

In some cases, a stuck CVT may also be caused by worn-out components or other mechanical issues. When this happens, it's essential to use specialized tools and diagnostic techniques to identify the root cause of the problem. This may involve using a scan tool to monitor transmission performance or performing manual disassembly of the transmission to inspect for wear or damage.

If you're struggling to diagnose or fix a stuck CVT in your Toyota Avalon, it's always worth seeking the advice of a professional mechanic. With their expertise and specialized knowledge, they can help identify the problem and implement the necessary repairs to get your car running smoothly again.

Ultimately, repairing a stuck CVT requires patience, persistence, and the right tools. By following these steps and using the right techniques, you can help restore your transmission's proper functioning and enjoy safe, smooth driving once again.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enrev up your engines okay or something you don't see all that off it's a 2010 rav4 and actually started running bad on the highway check engine light come on it does have 234 000 miles it's a second owner so let's see what's wrong with the car we can see it's a v6 engine we'll start it up and see if we can hear anything odd you don't want to check for hissing vacuum signs i don't hear anything like this crap out of the way throw it over here feel a little vibration nothing out right probably trying to get out the scan to it and we'll plug it in right side up pocket just want to call it so i'll wipe the fog off do an auto scan a smart key here we go 10 rep 4. baby scans it fast it does have 232 000 so we don't care about some of the crap we don't care about the abs and stuff we care about as an engine and ect because it's not running right so we have random multiple misfire brake system yeah we're not really worried about that random multiple misfire miss firestone number one misfire cylinder two misfires on the number four so we had misfires on one two and four now those are general codes so what we're gonna do is go into the live data the misfire occurred 46 percent load the engine was at 2020 rpms the car is going 111 well that's kilometers an hour so so let's look at live data yeah the mass airflow sensor is pretty normal and with the live data it's presently not misfiring at all we'll rev it up a little see if there's no misfires at all at the present time so it isn't presently misfiring but in the past it was going 60 70 miles an hour it was misfiring and talking about cylinders one two and four take a picture of the engine number one cylinders in the back there and two and four are there so it's affecting both sides but in kind of a rather odd way it's not all one side or the other it's one two and four it's only doing a high speed so it can't be a vacuum leak or something it wouldn't affect anything that bizarre way more often an ignition problem fuel injector problem or just plain old worn out spark plugs so as we look under the hood one's up here two and four are here now actually one can be accessed pretty easily back here it's not a bad one the other ones are hard to get to but let's look at two and four first i'll take this coil on plug off first check the spark plug take the bolt off pull this out of the way look at the spark plug this will loosen it quite a bit because i'm getting old and weak now i can get the rest of it look at the spark plug really screw them in i'll give them that and if you look sparkles completely worn out a little electrode they're supposed to be flat and you can see it's eaten at an angle it's completely worn out i wouldn't be at all surprised that each one of these spark plugs was just the original one worn out because it's only doing it at high rpm when it's got a fire really fast it wasn't firing right this this and the one in the back it just so happens that the other ones aren't worn enough to misfire yet but they're all going to be worn now who knows maybe these coils are starting to wear out but when they're obviously this worn instead of having two flush parts one's at a jagged angle all worn out first we're gonna change the spark plugs now this came with iridium plugs don't buy the cheap ones put the right ones back in don't mess up a good design they've been here 230 000 miles they're already all plated you don't need to coat them they're ready all pre-gapped all you have to do is install them spin them in hand tight they're long threads then what you want to do is the ratchet get them snug and you see they're tight keep going keep going now it's real snug just a little bit more that's fine you can torque them if you want but i've been doing it long enough put the coil on plug back on biting the bolt on it helps ground it you got to make sure it's tight and then finish it up for the ratchet there and we'll do the other five now this one doesn't have enough room to get off so we're gonna unplug the connector so we can get it off sometimes you have to do that so now we got the six spark plugs and we'll put the stupid beauty cover back on and we'll reset the computer easy enough to do just in this case push the engine start stop it won't start you don't push your foot in the brake you just push it so the idiot lights are on then you go to clear trouble code says they're cleared okay let's check it read there aren't any so it's clear now i'll take it for a road test i'll start her up start showing up now since we saw the trouble code picked up at 60 something miles an hour we'll take it on the highway for half an hour going at least 60 70 to see if it's gonna come back because you never know the ignition clause might be bad too you never know you got to road test it after you reset the code the fox are good and check it out it's a winter wonderland the trees have gotten ice on them it rained and then it froze kind of a beautiful sight actually like diamonds in the trees well the road test is done engine is idling much smoother than before and the check engine light is off what have you learned today well even toyota's breakdown eventually the spark plugs been in there for 236 000 miles so even they wear out eventually the only thing wrong was the spark plugs needed changes and here's a tip don't wait till they have 236 000 miles because as these iridium plugs they last a long time but as they wear they'll still fire reasonably good for a long time but to make them fire since they're worn they use more electricity and it can end up damaging the coils damaging the computer ignition system so my advice would be i don't know every hundred hundred and twenty thousand miles just change the spark plugs why not you know it's a simple thing to do it can create problems down the line let's say who knows this runs fine now maybe in a week it'll start misfiring because the ignition system was damaged from too much power going to the old spark plug so don't chance that i'd say change your memory out of 120 000 miles no biggie but you can easily do it yourself and prevent future damage and here's some bonus questions and answers well we all know nissan's in deep doo-doo with a lot of problems they had with their old ghost and head you know trying to get him in prison renault is trying to get rid of their relationship with nissan and nissan is trying to leave renault merger and stuff well the other good news they have is they say that the 2023 production of the new nissan z might start in march really soon so they can get them out now of course this is more or less a pr it's a sports car no one sells that many sports cars anymore so it's not a profit thing it's more of a snob thing the guys that like sports cars it'll be you know a traditional rear wheel drive with actual standard transmissions and the history of their z cars it's very interesting for people that are into sports cars but there aren't that many people that are anymore now they're not getting any dates you can buy them yet so it's still you know up in the air they didn't have their super bowl commercial if you watch that you know but then again they tout movies that aren't out for you know three quarters every year in the super bowl too thinking about getting a sports car you might wait to see when they get those z's out i know they always had a history of making pretty good sports cars but it's not going to save nissan by any stretch of the imagination they only sell a limited amount of those things it's not a big profit maker and sports cars are becoming less and less popular over time they don't make that much money camaros don't make chevy that much money sports cars aren't that popular anymore holder 223 says i got a 2009 dodge charger 5.7 hemi rough idle and white smoke comes from the exhaust i change the spark plugs rough idling sometimes and i can hear some engine not all right well unfortunately for you those hemis have a problem with cam shaft wear you didn't say the mileage you have i'm assuming it's high mileage if you're losing coolant you have to add it in it means your head gasket's starting to blow you got to tear the engine down but in many of those you got to tear the engine down anyway because the cams wear they weren't designed perfectly and at idle and at low speeds the cam don't get enough lubrication and they wear out and a lot of guys think oh the noise i hear it's lifter tick and they replace the lifters but the noise soon comes back because the lifters are activated by the cam and if the cam's worn yeah the lifters will wear too putting the new lifters doesn't fix the worn cam so odds are you got some serious engine problems there if i were you i would have a mechanic check the engine out and then decide you want to rebuild that engine you just get rid of and get something else not cheap rebuilding one of those hemis torox says i got a 2000 toyota avalon i have a stuck cvx on the passenger side how can i get it off here's the problem they do often stick inside the transmission i have never found this not to work what you do is you got the whole axle it's got the inner cv and the outer cv take the outer cv off of the assembly right take it off and then you just got the rod coming off the shaft that goes to the inner one put a slide hammer and one of those adjustable wrenches the universal one's a clamp on that will hold the shaft then this slide hammer will screw into the end of the adapter that adjustable wrench right then as you whack it it should pull it out now if that doesn't work what you're gonna have to do is go even further then you're gonna have to take the inside part out of the axle off of the shaft that's on the inside you take that off then what you do is you get one of those three jaw pullers you put that over the inner hub that's going to be in there the inner cv part and the shafts are all gone so it's just about this long you get one that fits around it and then you use the slide hammer it'll pull it out it has to pull it off usually you can do it with the shaft on it but if that doesn't work you've got to take the inside shaft off then when you hook a three-jaw puller on there and you pull on it it'll pop it out it can be a stinker but it will come out they do have a problem with some of them sticking in that's just the way that they go on those things but you get a slide hammer and one of those you know adjustable wrenches that you just clamp on and then you get if you don't own one buy one that's got the adapter that's threaded so you can thread the slide hammer on it'll pop it out eventually pray you don't take it all apart do the last one a lot of times you can just grab the shaft into it but if not you're gonna have to go all the way in with a three job boiler and then pull it off that way so it's holding on to just the inner cv joint so if you never want to miss another one of my new car repair videos remember to ring that bell you\n"