**Building a PC Lowrider: The Experience**

As I embarked on building my PC lowrider, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement and trepidation. The project was ambitious, to say the least, with multiple components that needed to be carefully integrated into one cohesive unit. My first step was to align the motherboard with the case, ensuring that everything was properly seated and secure.

I took my time, making sure that the motherboard lines up with the case. I was worried about the height, so I decided to trim the depth of this component to where that moves centered and can once it's along the side then I can slowly trim it depth wise to get it in that distance is longer than like that. This process required precision and patience, as making wrong adjustments could result in a short piece by the time I tried to straighten it out.

**Working with Metal Tubes**

One of the most challenging aspects of building this PC lowrider was working with metal tubes. To create bends, I had to use a combination of techniques, including trimming and cutting. I marked the tubes with my metal mark and cut the metal using a technique that would allow me to make micro-adjustments on the bottom. The process was tedious, but necessary, as I needed to ensure that the pieces fit together perfectly.

I wished I had a belt sander, as it would have made these adjustments much easier. However, I made do with what I had, and slowly but surely, the pieces began to take shape. One of the challenges was that some chrome plating could result in slight goldish or blackish tints, which affected my decision-making process. Fortunately, the chrome plating on all components matched perfectly, including the neuro-link, which I found particularly appealing.

**Riser and Knurls**

As I worked on building the PC lowrider, I also had to address the riser and knurls. The alpha cool tubes and fittings were a great match, with the Corsair hydro X fitting seamlessly into place. The bits power extensions completed the piece, adding a finishing touch to my build.

I chose not to have a particular brand loyalty, as I wanted whatever worked and matched. This approach allowed me to select components that would fit perfectly together, resulting in a cohesive look. However, having a unified design language also meant making decisions about chrome plating, which could affect the overall appearance of the build.

**Graphics Card Installation**

As I continued working on my PC lowrider, I realized that installing the graphics card required some creative problem-solving. I decided to add a little bling by reinstalling the graphics card, allowing me to appreciate its sleek design and intricate details. The chamfered edge of the case, which I had previously thought was just an aesthetic feature, proved to be a game-changer.

The lowrider's unique design language was influenced by my desire for chrome plating, but also by the fact that this build is taking a different approach than Mark's field. While Mark's work is known for its distressed look, I opted for a more polished and refined aesthetic, which required careful consideration when selecting components.

**Future Plans**

As I near the completion of my PC lowrider, I'm excited to put everything into action. However, there are still some decisions to be made, particularly regarding the reservoir and storage solutions. I plan to use Saito's or similar components to fill in the space between the radiators, adding a touch of elegance to the design.

In terms of routing the loops, I'll need to find a way to connect the CPU, graphics card, and other components without compromising the overall aesthetics. This will require some creative problem-solving, but I'm confident that my experience with building this PC lowrider has prepared me for the challenge.

**Conclusion**

Building a PC lowrider is an intricate process that requires patience, precision, and attention to detail. From aligning the motherboard to routing the loops, every decision has a ripple effect on the final product. As I continue working on this project, I'm constantly reminded of the importance of careful planning and execution. The result, however, will be well worth the effort – a stunning PC lowrider that showcases my creativity and craftsmanship.

As I look at the finished build, I'm struck by the beauty of the chamfered edge on the gunmetal brushed aluminum case. It's a design feature that adds a touch of sophistication to the overall aesthetic, making this PC lowrider truly unique. Whether you're a seasoned builder or just starting out, building a PC lowrider is an experience that will challenge and reward you in equal measure.

For me, the final result is more than just a beautifully designed PC – it's a reflection of my personality and style. The chrome plating, knurls, and riser all contribute to a cohesive look that I'm proud to call my own. Whether you agree or disagree with my design choices, one thing is certain: building a PC lowrider requires passion, dedication, and attention to detail.

As I continue on this journey, I'll be sharing more insights and experiences with building a PC lowrider. Stay tuned for the next installment of this ongoing project!

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enall right so here we are working on nebula once again my personal build which it's it's been a while it's it's covered in dust I said at the start this build was never intended to be a fast one just one that I can kind of build on on my spare time because I still have skunk works and I want it to be awesome so I've been sort of toying around with some ideas for the loop as I've already showed you guys we're going with the chrome tubing which is chrome plated brass tubing there was a lot of confusion in that last video I guess I didn't explain very well but it's metal tube not painted or chrome painted plastic but anyway I digress that's besides the point we are gonna kind of show you guys a how I get that past year live you guys have asked how do you pass those tubes through the floor or through the back wall and stuff and I know kind of where I want some of that to go so we're gonna do focus on that today and then we've got some really cool stuff coming regarding reservoirs that I want to be different so that's one of the reasons why this one's taking so long and to be honest it's been back-burnered like we did the custom ITX build and all that we're gonna be doing another one you guys want to see more mods we're doing another case mod coming up so we're gonna work on this one slowly in between projects cuz this is mine I can't wait I can wait a little bit I'm not that impatient today's video is sponsored by EVGA and right now if you buy an EVGA 20 ATT Akeem pin graphics card you can get a free 1,300 g2 or 1200 p2 power supply absolutely free that's up to three hundred nineteen dollars in savings and if cash is a little tight then take advantage of EVGA 0% financing for 12 months to get this incredible offer click the link in the description below and use offer code Jase 2 cents at checkout offer valid through September 30th and only while supplies last so what we're gonna do today is I know that I want both of the tubes from the CPU to kind of come up and 90 back through this wall right there I don't know how I'm gonna do this part yeah I need the reservoir first trust me the thing we've got hopefully coming for this is absolutely bonkers so I've done this in skunk works I did this in red mist and it's been a long time since I've done those built and I showed how to do it then but a lot of people when they see pictures of my various skunk works and stuff they they don't they don't go back and look at those logs so we're just gonna kind of show you how that works so first thing we're gonna need here obviously are some fittings and such the nice thing about micro Center now is they carry bits power and EK and all those products now and those brands in store so we we ran down a microcytic that these fittings if you guys wanna links to these they'll be down in the description below but what we use here it's called fill port which is kind of funny not not ph IL not fill port not like a port full of fills these also or it could be called bulkhead fittings and it really depends on the brand on what they're gonna be called to be honest so this is what it is right here it's just a fitting that as you can see it's quart g quarter thread all the way through and it's also threaded on the outside so that this collar can lock down on there and so what you end up with here ultimately is just something that you drill a hole a hole that's got to match this size and i'll show you how we achieve that and then you put this through the hole that goes to the other side there's an o-ring here to keep it from spinning because then what will happen is if you go to tighten down the fittings on to this this fitting will just spin and you'll never get a tight seal so the o-ring kind of gives it some compression there to allow it to sort of have some friction and then you just clamp it which is what we're gonna be doing here so we do like one there and one there so what we've got to do is we've got to actually measure because the collar on this is not very big and I think the reason why they do that is there's sort of a standard size a lot of case manufacturers have sort of adopted we showed you on the lux two case now there's a fill port on the top and a fill port on the bottom or drain port and these just fit right in that hole because that's a pretty standard size now that case manufacturers have sort of just agreed on that's the diameter that it should be and so let's go ahead right now and show you how I'm gonna get that that size or at least get the hole right cuz that's a pretty big drill bit right I mean di-didn't gonna chuck up in your standard half-inch drill that's for sure so what I use are actually these right here these are just step bits I got two different kinds here just different increments in terms of size so if we want to know how wide this actually is to know which bits are which step to stop back because you could put tape on it to kind of mark it so you know you can just use a caliper set in fact I've got one right here all right so these are and because you're dealing with threads you don't measure it this way you measure this way all right so it's bout 20 millimeters if I want to know what that is in inches so 0.78 1 inches so just over 3/4 of an inch so what you're gonna do is you can see you've got different measurements on these they are marked on the inside of this one so we've got 3/4 of an inch right there so what I would do is I could put a piece of tape around that or create a black sharpie or something just so I know how deep to stop but we're not ready to do that yet obviously the motherboard everything's still in there that's got to come out because we can't exactly go drilling and putting metal shavings everywhere but first we have to measure so what I've done here is I've got a neural extension on each of these because I've got to clear this this is a very tall heatsink with active cooling in there so we've got to clear that and the reason why I'm not doing double bends is because remember I showed you in our last video we can get these tubes here with a single bend in them already but I don't have a way of bending this again nor would I bend it again because it's plated because it's plated if I bend it the plating will crack so I can't bend these again what they do is they pre Bend then they plate and then issue so that's how that works so what I'm gonna do now is I'm just gonna put some tape across there that way I can measure and mark where I want the holes to go and then I will show you how we actually do the hole marking so that we do it once because like I showed you since that collar is it very thick we don't have a lot of room to play some of the some of the bulkhead fittings and you'll find them I guess I'd call two different things fill port or bulkhead fitting the bulkhead fittings tend to have a little bit more of a collar on them so what that does it gives you a little bit of play inside of the hole so if it's not quite left or right properly you'll be able to to shift it and get it to line up since I have very little overhang or collar on these particular fittings from bits power I am gonna try and measure three times once I know it's the same thing as what I just did all right so I've done my measurement as stupid as possible but close enough I think cuz I still do have a couple millimeters of movement in the fitting just not a lot you know it's funny if you look at skunk works so you look at the fittings down the bottom maybe I'll try to find a picture of this to put up here you'll notice there's rubber like rubber pads that they're on that are much bigger than the fitting I didn't line it up right so I had to find a way to be able to have more movement without the edge of the hole showing so I was like I'll just take this rubber thing and stick it on the fitting and put it down so it's fitting plus rubber pad plus then the actual floor so this right here is just a it's an awl or a hole punch and it's you use this in leather working or for getting yourself a nice divot so that you have a drill bit that won't walk so we'll just push it it's spring-loaded can you do it a couple couple times if you want I now I need to take the graphics cards and the motherboard out of there have a vacuum handy a vacuum would be better than just blowing the shavings everywhere so we'll be using a vacuum with a brush to vacuum this out you don't want to just blow shavings all over the place and then we'll be ready to drill a pilot hole and then drill it from the backside it'll be cleaner if we drill from the back side and then clean it on the front side by just doing one pass that way we don't get all the shavings also just kind of blowing through to the front side which is where a lot of the delicacy is in this build delicacy so we're gonna do now let's take a small drill bit and we're just gonna find where that dimple is where it kind of just rests in there like that we're gonna just slowly drill a hole through there we don't want to do a high-speed we don't want to you know have it punched through and just bang against our board there or I'll use our motherboard tray so just go slow you can put on speed one if you want I've also got this tape on here that way if it does jump out for some reason I'm not gonna go scratching the paint job that I did all the hell although it so could do some damage won't be as much I can put on these which are just these are just rotary adapters mail the mail oh oh man do you wanna talk about clothes it's all looking at that going are those gonna be like I was like did I just grew up in front of 2 million people would be the first time the problem here is the thickness of this metal makes it so that before you can get the cut all the way down to the three-quarter you start cutting on the next step that's why I'll get it to the right size and then go to the other side to clean it cheese that is some strong metal this is what it was like drilling through the aluminum on the the SMA eight when I did it you versus the guy she says is just a friend Jay makes that joke a lot is there something behind it ah Phil thinks that this looks like one of those grade-a under a characters with a little eyes and the big let's just put the computer back getting to see how long it lasts all right so before we can get to our tube obviously we need to go ahead and put in our fittings here we're gonna leave on their semi loose so for this next part we're gonna put the motherboard back in and we're gonna be bending a single piece of PE TG into a 90 very similar to how our metal tube is because we cannot make easy adjustments to the metal tube we can't just trim a little bit off like you can with the PT G we're gonna mock it up with the plastic then we're gonna use the plastic as a template to make marks on our metal so that we make the cuts once on the metal after we've done if it's plastic and the reason why we're going to do a bend in the plastic instead of just doing a 90 degree fitting that's because although the end points would be the same as long as we take this and we use this metal as a jig for our 90 so we know that the radius is the same and this is identical piece to this then we know that it's all going to line up so I've made the two marks based on what I could visually see from here fortunately this case is open in the back if you take the fans like the fan cover back an old thing off and I've measured longer than I think I'm gonna need because like I said whoa that was cool like I said I can trim this down pretty easily using my my bit over here primo chill actually sells this they just call it a deeper bit so you can get on pyramid shows website it's this particular one specifically for thirteen millimeter and I don't know if they make one for 16 or 14 but this is 13 and so now that that's cut I'm just deep bird slightly I'm gonna see how this fits and then I'm gonna make adjustments as we go the nice thing is both of these are making the exact same runs does it have to do this do this twice so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get the depth as you can see here properly to where it lines up with that then I'm worried about the height so I'm just going to trim the depth of this to where that moves centered and can once it's along the side then I can slowly trim it depth wise to get it in that distance is longer than like that so you need to make very short adjustments on the bottom otherwise you're gonna end up having too short of a piece by the time you try and straighten it out if you were doing a PT G build then you'd be done but now we've got to take these mark it on our metal tubes and cut the metal this is where I wish had a belt sander because then I'd be able to make those micro adjustments on this yeah I needs to be trimming on the bottom slightly because this wheel can also just snap I'm like don't push against it hard just barely touch it all right yeah it's all right there so there it is that's what two of them look like so I've got the riser fortunately the knurl matched between the riser and the 90s for a little recap - these are alpha cool tubes these are alpha cool fittings for the actual tubes or the compressions and then these this is Corsair hydro X for the 90s and then bits power for the extensions you can't tell there's no particular brand loyalty in this particular build it's whatever works and matches and fortunately the chrome plating on all of these match the problem with some chrome plating is you can have a slight goldish tint or kind of a blackish tint depending on them the the plating process or the materials used or even the materials underneath the plating so fortunately it all matches the neuro-link on everything so I'm glad I didn't go like a diamond cut on the fittings and the knurls on those it's just all neural which I like the way the light hits the neuro-link some people don't like that I particularly do so we're gonna do now is I'm not though the graphics card back in there to add a little bit more bling so you can really start to get a good idea of why I'm going with just so much chrome I I'm just this is Tony Mann this is the 1990s lowrider right here we are just low riding this thing out in terms of the amount of chrome and stuff oh my goodness it's like this is the opposite of Mark's field it's like this is taking so much longer because I have to be careful with it verses mark 6 Matt distressed we're getting close I'm just waiting on some word regarding the reservoir and stuff I want to use which will fill in this area and it's not a lot to do I mean we're doing all them to sort storage on this so I'll have to run any Saito's or anything all those kind of thing about putting two SATA drives right there just for the hell of it to kind of fill in that space a little bit and then we would have to do our radiators and such so that is just another example of working with the tubes you guys asked in the last video about shut up watch about how I could do bends and stuff and that's exactly how we do it we the 90s there if I need more than one Bend though I have to do it but if I have to do more than one Bend then it will be like we did with the Dark Knight build it'll be the tube Bend plus a 90 bin with a fitting which I think will look cool so when I'm gonna have to figure out now is once I have my reservoir setup over here how I'm gonna get to the graphics card and then from the graphics card to the CPU because the order I normally go is graphics cards then CPU and people get all like well aren't you heating up your CPU no the the loop order really does not matter in a PC it's not a car we're not dealing with massive Delta T's we are just dealing with a equalised loop I'm not gonna talk about this a million times I'm not gonna debate and argue with you guys it's the way it is whether you want to believe it or not so I've got to get from here to there there's gonna be a 90 and 90 there and they're just not a a tube between them so it's gonna the radiators will be in series and then that'll go to the res and then that will be the return from the CPU so you know how the loops gonna go I just to figure out cleanly how I'm gonna route it so hopefully you guys like the way nebulas turning out man it is baleen II and you know honestly it's all because of this chamfered edge this very Apple like chamfered edge on this gunmetal brushed aluminum case it's pretty dopeall right so here we are working on nebula once again my personal build which it's it's been a while it's it's covered in dust I said at the start this build was never intended to be a fast one just one that I can kind of build on on my spare time because I still have skunk works and I want it to be awesome so I've been sort of toying around with some ideas for the loop as I've already showed you guys we're going with the chrome tubing which is chrome plated brass tubing there was a lot of confusion in that last video I guess I didn't explain very well but it's metal tube not painted or chrome painted plastic but anyway I digress that's besides the point we are gonna kind of show you guys a how I get that past year live you guys have asked how do you pass those tubes through the floor or through the back wall and stuff and I know kind of where I want some of that to go so we're gonna do focus on that today and then we've got some really cool stuff coming regarding reservoirs that I want to be different so that's one of the reasons why this one's taking so long and to be honest it's been back-burnered like we did the custom ITX build and all that we're gonna be doing another one you guys want to see more mods we're doing another case mod coming up so we're gonna work on this one slowly in between projects cuz this is mine I can't wait I can wait a little bit I'm not that impatient today's video is sponsored by EVGA and right now if you buy an EVGA 20 ATT Akeem pin graphics card you can get a free 1,300 g2 or 1200 p2 power supply absolutely free that's up to three hundred nineteen dollars in savings and if cash is a little tight then take advantage of EVGA 0% financing for 12 months to get this incredible offer click the link in the description below and use offer code Jase 2 cents at checkout offer valid through September 30th and only while supplies last so what we're gonna do today is I know that I want both of the tubes from the CPU to kind of come up and 90 back through this wall right there I don't know how I'm gonna do this part yeah I need the reservoir first trust me the thing we've got hopefully coming for this is absolutely bonkers so I've done this in skunk works I did this in red mist and it's been a long time since I've done those built and I showed how to do it then but a lot of people when they see pictures of my various skunk works and stuff they they don't they don't go back and look at those logs so we're just gonna kind of show you how that works so first thing we're gonna need here obviously are some fittings and such the nice thing about micro Center now is they carry bits power and EK and all those products now and those brands in store so we we ran down a microcytic that these fittings if you guys wanna links to these they'll be down in the description below but what we use here it's called fill port which is kind of funny not not ph IL not fill port not like a port full of fills these also or it could be called bulkhead fittings and it really depends on the brand on what they're gonna be called to be honest so this is what it is right here it's just a fitting that as you can see it's quart g quarter thread all the way through and it's also threaded on the outside so that this collar can lock down on there and so what you end up with here ultimately is just something that you drill a hole a hole that's got to match this size and i'll show you how we achieve that and then you put this through the hole that goes to the other side there's an o-ring here to keep it from spinning because then what will happen is if you go to tighten down the fittings on to this this fitting will just spin and you'll never get a tight seal so the o-ring kind of gives it some compression there to allow it to sort of have some friction and then you just clamp it which is what we're gonna be doing here so we do like one there and one there so what we've got to do is we've got to actually measure because the collar on this is not very big and I think the reason why they do that is there's sort of a standard size a lot of case manufacturers have sort of adopted we showed you on the lux two case now there's a fill port on the top and a fill port on the bottom or drain port and these just fit right in that hole because that's a pretty standard size now that case manufacturers have sort of just agreed on that's the diameter that it should be and so let's go ahead right now and show you how I'm gonna get that that size or at least get the hole right cuz that's a pretty big drill bit right I mean di-didn't gonna chuck up in your standard half-inch drill that's for sure so what I use are actually these right here these are just step bits I got two different kinds here just different increments in terms of size so if we want to know how wide this actually is to know which bits are which step to stop back because you could put tape on it to kind of mark it so you know you can just use a caliper set in fact I've got one right here all right so these are and because you're dealing with threads you don't measure it this way you measure this way all right so it's bout 20 millimeters if I want to know what that is in inches so 0.78 1 inches so just over 3/4 of an inch so what you're gonna do is you can see you've got different measurements on these they are marked on the inside of this one so we've got 3/4 of an inch right there so what I would do is I could put a piece of tape around that or create a black sharpie or something just so I know how deep to stop but we're not ready to do that yet obviously the motherboard everything's still in there that's got to come out because we can't exactly go drilling and putting metal shavings everywhere but first we have to measure so what I've done here is I've got a neural extension on each of these because I've got to clear this this is a very tall heatsink with active cooling in there so we've got to clear that and the reason why I'm not doing double bends is because remember I showed you in our last video we can get these tubes here with a single bend in them already but I don't have a way of bending this again nor would I bend it again because it's plated because it's plated if I bend it the plating will crack so I can't bend these again what they do is they pre Bend then they plate and then issue so that's how that works so what I'm gonna do now is I'm just gonna put some tape across there that way I can measure and mark where I want the holes to go and then I will show you how we actually do the hole marking so that we do it once because like I showed you since that collar is it very thick we don't have a lot of room to play some of the some of the bulkhead fittings and you'll find them I guess I'd call two different things fill port or bulkhead fitting the bulkhead fittings tend to have a little bit more of a collar on them so what that does it gives you a little bit of play inside of the hole so if it's not quite left or right properly you'll be able to to shift it and get it to line up since I have very little overhang or collar on these particular fittings from bits power I am gonna try and measure three times once I know it's the same thing as what I just did all right so I've done my measurement as stupid as possible but close enough I think cuz I still do have a couple millimeters of movement in the fitting just not a lot you know it's funny if you look at skunk works so you look at the fittings down the bottom maybe I'll try to find a picture of this to put up here you'll notice there's rubber like rubber pads that they're on that are much bigger than the fitting I didn't line it up right so I had to find a way to be able to have more movement without the edge of the hole showing so I was like I'll just take this rubber thing and stick it on the fitting and put it down so it's fitting plus rubber pad plus then the actual floor so this right here is just a it's an awl or a hole punch and it's you use this in leather working or for getting yourself a nice divot so that you have a drill bit that won't walk so we'll just push it it's spring-loaded can you do it a couple couple times if you want I now I need to take the graphics cards and the motherboard out of there have a vacuum handy a vacuum would be better than just blowing the shavings everywhere so we'll be using a vacuum with a brush to vacuum this out you don't want to just blow shavings all over the place and then we'll be ready to drill a pilot hole and then drill it from the backside it'll be cleaner if we drill from the back side and then clean it on the front side by just doing one pass that way we don't get all the shavings also just kind of blowing through to the front side which is where a lot of the delicacy is in this build delicacy so we're gonna do now let's take a small drill bit and we're just gonna find where that dimple is where it kind of just rests in there like that we're gonna just slowly drill a hole through there we don't want to do a high-speed we don't want to you know have it punched through and just bang against our board there or I'll use our motherboard tray so just go slow you can put on speed one if you want I've also got this tape on here that way if it does jump out for some reason I'm not gonna go scratching the paint job that I did all the hell although it so could do some damage won't be as much I can put on these which are just these are just rotary adapters mail the mail oh oh man do you wanna talk about clothes it's all looking at that going are those gonna be like I was like did I just grew up in front of 2 million people would be the first time the problem here is the thickness of this metal makes it so that before you can get the cut all the way down to the three-quarter you start cutting on the next step that's why I'll get it to the right size and then go to the other side to clean it cheese that is some strong metal this is what it was like drilling through the aluminum on the the SMA eight when I did it you versus the guy she says is just a friend Jay makes that joke a lot is there something behind it ah Phil thinks that this looks like one of those grade-a under a characters with a little eyes and the big let's just put the computer back getting to see how long it lasts all right so before we can get to our tube obviously we need to go ahead and put in our fittings here we're gonna leave on their semi loose so for this next part we're gonna put the motherboard back in and we're gonna be bending a single piece of PE TG into a 90 very similar to how our metal tube is because we cannot make easy adjustments to the metal tube we can't just trim a little bit off like you can with the PT G we're gonna mock it up with the plastic then we're gonna use the plastic as a template to make marks on our metal so that we make the cuts once on the metal after we've done if it's plastic and the reason why we're going to do a bend in the plastic instead of just doing a 90 degree fitting that's because although the end points would be the same as long as we take this and we use this metal as a jig for our 90 so we know that the radius is the same and this is identical piece to this then we know that it's all going to line up so I've made the two marks based on what I could visually see from here fortunately this case is open in the back if you take the fans like the fan cover back an old thing off and I've measured longer than I think I'm gonna need because like I said whoa that was cool like I said I can trim this down pretty easily using my my bit over here primo chill actually sells this they just call it a deeper bit so you can get on pyramid shows website it's this particular one specifically for thirteen millimeter and I don't know if they make one for 16 or 14 but this is 13 and so now that that's cut I'm just deep bird slightly I'm gonna see how this fits and then I'm gonna make adjustments as we go the nice thing is both of these are making the exact same runs does it have to do this do this twice so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get the depth as you can see here properly to where it lines up with that then I'm worried about the height so I'm just going to trim the depth of this to where that moves centered and can once it's along the side then I can slowly trim it depth wise to get it in that distance is longer than like that so you need to make very short adjustments on the bottom otherwise you're gonna end up having too short of a piece by the time you try and straighten it out if you were doing a PT G build then you'd be done but now we've got to take these mark it on our metal tubes and cut the metal this is where I wish had a belt sander because then I'd be able to make those micro adjustments on this yeah I needs to be trimming on the bottom slightly because this wheel can also just snap I'm like don't push against it hard just barely touch it all right yeah it's all right there so there it is that's what two of them look like so I've got the riser fortunately the knurl matched between the riser and the 90s for a little recap - these are alpha cool tubes these are alpha cool fittings for the actual tubes or the compressions and then these this is Corsair hydro X for the 90s and then bits power for the extensions you can't tell there's no particular brand loyalty in this particular build it's whatever works and matches and fortunately the chrome plating on all of these match the problem with some chrome plating is you can have a slight goldish tint or kind of a blackish tint depending on them the the plating process or the materials used or even the materials underneath the plating so fortunately it all matches the neuro-link on everything so I'm glad I didn't go like a diamond cut on the fittings and the knurls on those it's just all neural which I like the way the light hits the neuro-link some people don't like that I particularly do so we're gonna do now is I'm not though the graphics card back in there to add a little bit more bling so you can really start to get a good idea of why I'm going with just so much chrome I I'm just this is Tony Mann this is the 1990s lowrider right here we are just low riding this thing out in terms of the amount of chrome and stuff oh my goodness it's like this is the opposite of Mark's field it's like this is taking so much longer because I have to be careful with it verses mark 6 Matt distressed we're getting close I'm just waiting on some word regarding the reservoir and stuff I want to use which will fill in this area and it's not a lot to do I mean we're doing all them to sort storage on this so I'll have to run any Saito's or anything all those kind of thing about putting two SATA drives right there just for the hell of it to kind of fill in that space a little bit and then we would have to do our radiators and such so that is just another example of working with the tubes you guys asked in the last video about shut up watch about how I could do bends and stuff and that's exactly how we do it we the 90s there if I need more than one Bend though I have to do it but if I have to do more than one Bend then it will be like we did with the Dark Knight build it'll be the tube Bend plus a 90 bin with a fitting which I think will look cool so when I'm gonna have to figure out now is once I have my reservoir setup over here how I'm gonna get to the graphics card and then from the graphics card to the CPU because the order I normally go is graphics cards then CPU and people get all like well aren't you heating up your CPU no the the loop order really does not matter in a PC it's not a car we're not dealing with massive Delta T's we are just dealing with a equalised loop I'm not gonna talk about this a million times I'm not gonna debate and argue with you guys it's the way it is whether you want to believe it or not so I've got to get from here to there there's gonna be a 90 and 90 there and they're just not a a tube between them so it's gonna the radiators will be in series and then that'll go to the res and then that will be the return from the CPU so you know how the loops gonna go I just to figure out cleanly how I'm gonna route it so hopefully you guys like the way nebulas turning out man it is baleen II and you know honestly it's all because of this chamfered edge this very Apple like chamfered edge on this gunmetal brushed aluminum case it's pretty dope\n"