**Bending Tube for CPU and GPU Loops**

Bending tube for PC builds is an essential skill to master, especially when it comes to creating complex loop designs like CPU and GPU setups. For those who are beginners or intermediate benders, using a Barrow bending kit can be incredibly helpful in achieving precise angles and ensuring a smooth workflow. These kits come in different sizes and can be used to bolt the tube in place, allowing for more control over the bending process.

When using a bending kit, it's essential to understand that the markings on the tool are all aligned to 180 degrees, making it easier to measure and bend the tube accurately. However, it's crucial to note that tube ends don't actually terminate at the same point as the starting point of the bend, due to the middle of the bend being pushed back about half an inch or so from where the final bend comes down. To avoid this issue, it's recommended to start bending up by three and a half inches instead of four, ensuring that the tube is bent to the correct spot.

Another crucial aspect of bending tube is measuring accurately. Many people assume that they can simply place a mark on the tube, bend it at that point, and expect the perfect distance between fittings. However, this approach can lead to inaccurate measurements due to the tube's natural curvature and the baking of Sharpie marks into the finish when heated. Instead, it's recommended to measure carefully and plan ahead, taking into account the tubing runs' geometry and the desired spacing between fittings.

In addition to using bending kits, improvising solutions can also be effective. For example, if a tubing run falls short of a particular fitting, sliding the radiators just a few centimeters can help extend the run without having to start from scratch. This approach saved time and materials for the author and proved to be an effective workaround.

**Measuring and Angling Tube**

Measuring tube accurately is crucial when it comes to creating complex loop designs. However, many people struggle with measuring techniques, particularly when it comes to angling tubes at precise angles. For those who prefer a more traditional approach, drawing flat lines on paper can help measure the tubing runs' angles with greater accuracy.

Using a simple piece of paper and pencil, authors have found that drawing 90-degree and 45-degree lines helps to measure the tube's angle accurately. This technique is especially useful when laying the tube flat on a table, ensuring that it stays aligned during the bending process. While not as sleek as modern angling tools like the XS PC Angler, this improvised method has proven effective in achieving accurate measurements.

**Planning and Execution**

Creating complex loop designs requires careful planning and execution. Unlike hot-line builds, which involve running cable along a fixed path, PC loops require more detailed planning to ensure that all components fit together seamlessly. This approach can be time-consuming but ultimately rewarding when the finished product is completed.

In this particular build, the author faced several challenges, including bending tube for both CPU and GPU loops. While some issues arose during the process, such as the tubing run falling short of a fitting, the author was able to improvise solutions that saved time and materials.

**Conclusion**

Bending tube for PC builds is an essential skill that requires patience, practice, and attention to detail. By using bending kits, improvising solutions, and measuring carefully, builders can create complex loop designs with ease. Whether you're a beginner or intermediate bender, mastering the art of bending tube will elevate your build game and allow you to achieve stunning results.

**Brian's Advice**

In this video, Brian shared his expertise on bending tube for PC builds, offering valuable tips and advice that helped the author complete the CPU loop. One key takeaway from Brian's advice is the importance of using a Barrow bending kit, which can help achieve precise angles and make the bending process more manageable.

Brian also emphasized the need to measure carefully, taking into account the tubing runs' geometry and the desired spacing between fittings. His approach proved effective in avoiding common mistakes, such as measuring too short or inaccurate measurements due to Sharpie marks in the finish.

By following Brian's advice and tips, builders can improve their skills and create stunning loop designs that showcase their PC build. Whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out, mastering the art of bending tube will elevate your build game and allow you to achieve exceptional results.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enthe Ripjaws km 570 mechanical keyboard from g.skill features cherry MX speed silver switches RGB perky lighting and on-the-fly macro recording for a premium gaming experience meanwhile the MX 780 sports 8 programmable buttons three-zone custom RGB lighting and an ambidextrous designed with height adjustment click the link in the description to learn more what's going on guys welcome back to the channel hope you're all doing well today is the long-awaited part 2 of the enthu elite build our 10000 ish dollar system that we're gonna be building from the ground up there have been some changes since part 1 many things have transpired so before we dive into the actual build section because we're actually installing things in the case today I wanted to quickly go over what has changed since part 1 for starters a lot of you guys were telling me to deal it'd that core I 9 79 80 X II or you would do terrible things to me so help against my will I decided to turn this in to the folks over at gamers Nexus gamers Nexus Steve actually did a fantastic job deleting this guy and applying some liquid metal himself in order to lower our thermals and increase power efficiency and other good things like that so I can't wait to actually get this thing installed and take it for a spin especially with this ridiculous custom loop that we're building around it it should be pretty exciting but during his testing and you guys should definitely go and check out his video I'll put a link in the description below that he did with the rampage 6 extreme motherboard and this particular CPU he found that that motherboard was actually throttling the core frequency due to an overheating vrm so because of that and Steve's infinite wisdom I've decided to invest in an asus rog rampage 6 extreme mono block that will hopefully lower the temperatures on our BRM enough so we don't encounter any thermal throttling because the last thing we want is for this thing to be super nice and deleted and all that and get ruined at the end of the day by the motherboard so additionally I have since done away with the single reservoir and loop idea we're actually gonna be doing two loops so I've actually got some new hardware here the ekx res 140 Revo d5 RGB PWM pump res combos we've got two of them one loop is probably going to be for our CPU and the other for our graphics additionally about that I have one of them installed we're still waiting on the other GTX 1080p I from Asus we ran into some ridiculous shipping mishaps recently so it's actually on its way long story short it will be here shortly and I will be able to continue just fine but everything's in order for that I'm very excited to be doing a dual loop system though for the first time additionally you might notice this stack of ll series RGB fans from Corsair we have six one 20s and six one 40s with their included commander Pro digital fan and RGB lighting controllers those will be situated on our four radiators here and going with the dual loop configuration we are gonna have two radiators per loop so we're gonna have a 480 and a 360 for each of our loops which is pretty insane covered by these fantastic fans no pun intended we've also got some new storage situation here so we've got 2 m2 SSDs these are both nvme we've got the 960 Evo these are both from Samsung this is a 250 gig version or model that we're gonna be using as a boot drive and then we've got a 2 terabyte stick that's just gonna be for our scratch disk and bigger applications all of our raw footage and things like that if we're gonna be editing games and so forth I may invest in a second 2 terabyte drive I think we have enough lanes for for that to happen so maybe we'll do some raid action that may be pretty sweet this is an overkill system after all and then finally we've got the plateau max DF series power supply from enter backs that I showed off in part 1 but this is just a quick verbal updates that we do have some custom sleeved cables from Joey @n sourced on the way they are in the mail he's already done with them I'm not gonna give too much away as far as the pattern and colors that were using I mean you can probably figure out that it's gonna be more or less color neutral but they are gonna be some really sweet cables so I can't wait to show those off as well but I want to start trying to bend some tubes by the end of this part 1 or part 2 video so we got to get everything installed radiators the fans let's go ahead and do that now and see how far we get it's gonna be intense alright guys check out the progress we've made looks pretty sweet things are going pretty smoothly you can see that we have very little clearance between this rightmost pump rez and the radiator like the fittings just like maybe a millimeter away from the fin stack it's just just by a hair and actually the the back plate here for modular plate that we mounted these pump presses - I thought it supported two side by side reservoirs but apparently it only has the mounting strips for one of them so I actually only have one side of this reservoir mounted to that bracket you can see here if we take a look at the backside I actually had to zip-tie one side to part of the bracket so it's kind of ghetto rigged here and you can't even tell from the other side it looks perfectly fine it might be slightly tilted but I can always tweak that a little bit later but apart from that everything is going pretty smoothly here the fans and radiators are fitting just fine had just you know just enough clearance between this this radiator fan and and the pump res there but yeah looking good now after I set all this up I spent a good hour and a half just looking at this system trying to figure out where my runs would go because obviously we're dealing with two loops now and it kind of makes things a little bit more complicated but I think I figured it out for the most part so I'm gonna share with you guys my idea for for each of these runs and we're gonna get to tube bending so for for this pump res I was thinking this would control the the CPU loop this would be our CPU loop right so and don't pay attention to the fittings they're just here for placeholders they don't necessarily indicate the direction that the tubes will be going so this is the outlet here I was thinking I was gonna go out just slightly over and then up and then go straight across into the monoblock out of the monoblock and then we're gonna go diagonally back into the corner of the case before going straight up into this Inlet for the radiator we're going to come down here all the way down it's going to go back and then into that back port then from here it's gonna go up just ever so slightly just barely above the fan it's gonna go all the way to the end of the fans straight back and then straight back up to the inlet so that would be our cpu loop now our GPU loops gonna be a little tricky because it's gonna have to avoid all of the runs from our CPU loop it's gonna get kind of messy in this area here but but hear me out we're gonna go out then we're gonna go all the way back and maybe I'll do some like like a little bit of bendy magic going straight into this Inlet here and then it's gonna go to both of our GPUs and it's gonna come out this guy another boom it's gonna come out back here down below maybe back into this inlet out here in the end of there and then finally returning from the the bottom radiator bottom of the radiator into our pump rest so that is the tentative plan for now as far as the runs go and you know I'm gonna try to be flexible if something's not working out then I'm totally willing to switch it up and it's all about problem solving at this point but on that note I think we are ready to start bending some tubes however since I am pretty much as noob as they come when it comes to custom water cooling and to bending I'm actually gonna call upon my good friend Brian Stroh from bps Kustoms you guys should go check his channel out if you haven't yet tons of good stuff there reviews builds lots of custom work he does a great job over there but Brian's gonna help me out a little bit he's gonna give me a couple pointers that he's learned over his several years of being a custom water cooling enthusiast so that maybe I have a little bit easier time figuring this all out as I go about the end through elite builds and maybe you guys will learn something too all the while I'm gonna just go ahead and jump into to bending so you guys have some nice visuals to overlap on his sexy ass voice without further ado guys let's get bending what's going on guys my name is Brian I run the bps Kustoms YouTube channel I'm sure Kyle will drop a link down there somewhere and if he doesn't he's a jerk but I'm here with my very wobbly table to give you guys some tips and also some tricks as far as how to approach your next water cooling project now keep in mind that some of these might seem like fairly basic techniques however when it comes to something like water cooling especially if you're doing an overkill system like Kyle is right now if you don't have the basics down you're going to run into problems you're not only waste materials but you could end up with a flooded box of electronics and that's not good for anybody first thing you need before you even start is the right tools now you're gonna need a heat gun preferably one that stands up on its own so you don't have to hold it while you're doing your tubes second thing something to cut the tube with the last thing you definitely need if you're dealing with hardline is one of these little silly so uh silicone inserts because without this your tube will collapse when you try to bend it now another thing that I highly recommend having on hand is something to finish the ends of your tubing with now what I mean by that is a lot of times when you cut PE TG or acrylic you'll end up with a not perfectly smooth edge or even worse you could have a bur if you insert that edge into a fitting you could slice through the rubber o-ring and cause a leak a lot of times when people have leaks inside their system it's not necessarily because that fitting was bad from the factory rather they damaged it during installation there's a couple different ways you can prevent this from happening you can buy this from Home Depot this is called a deep burrow deeper deeper it's about three dollars you could do both the inside and the outside of the tube with this put the tube in and you just spin it the best way that I found to smooth out the edges of the tube however is with this this is a primo shield rigid finishing bit it fits into the end of a drill you put it into the tube like this and then you spin the drill you could actually use this tool to make minor adjustments in the length of the tube as well as just smooth out the edges let's get to bending what you want to do is make sure your heat gun is on low or medium heat high heat and any form will cause this tube to blister so you don't want to hold it too close you also don't want to hold it too far away to make sure that it's getting appropriately heated keep it a couple inches off rock it back and forth while spinning it like a rotisserie if you're not rocking it back and forth you're only heating one spot in the tube and when you go to bend it you don't kink so when everything is all heated up the way you know that it's ready to be bent is that the tube will actually lose some structural integrity and start to bend on its own bend the tube slowly and with even pressure don't rush it into place and when it's all done when it's at the angle you want take it off the heat and allow it to cool naturally you could blow on it a little bit don't dip it into water that's a bad idea keep in mind as PE TG or acrylic cools because the material is contracting it does tend to go back towards being straight now not gonna snap back into the straight position however you might open up the angle a little bit if you just leave it and instead of a 90 you might end up with like a hundred degree angle in order to prevent that hold the tube in place until it's cool for those of you who are beginners or even intermediate to benders something like this can certainly help you out this is the Barrow bending kit it comes in different sizes this one I think actually is the 16 millimeter size and I'm dealing with some 12 millimeter tubing here however you get the idea you could actually bolt these down to a piece of woods that you have them affixed in place and you could bend around them or you could just hold a freehand they actually help you tremendously when it comes to getting precise angles on your bends because they are all marked up to 180 degrees the same thing applies to freehand bending if you're using one of these bending kits and you take your tube and bend it around the corner you're gonna need to make sure that you hold it there because if you don't it'll actually retract a little bit and you'll end up with the wrong angle now the last thing I want to talk about is measuring a lot of people think that they could take a straight piece of tube put a little mark on it bend it at that mark and then you're gonna have the perfect distance between fittings it's not how it works first of all if you put a mark on this tube especially with something like a sharpie when you heat the tube to bend it you're actually gonna bake that Sharpie right into the finish and not be able to get it off the second thing is that tube ends don't actually terminate at the same point that you start the bend this is because the middle of the bend is actually pushed back about maybe a half an inch or so from where that final Bend comes down the thing you want to do when you're measuring your tubing runs is that say you have four inches between fittings before you need to make a 90-degree turn you don't want to measure and Bend this tube at 4 inches if you do that when you make the radial Bend you're actually going to end up at about 4 and a half 4 and 3/4 inches and you're gonna be way too far this Bend actually extends the tube and if you if you look at it you actually want to start bending up maybe three and a half inches and then you'll end up at the right spot this takes some getting used to some practice and a lot of patience alright guys so after much time effort and patience we finally got some of the runs done today as you can see all the runs for our CPU loop are complete it looks fantastic I think the only one I would redo is this one right here so maybe we can do away with these extensions might make it look a little bit cleaner but we still have the GPU loop to do obviously we're still waiting on that second GTX 1080i so once that rolls in we'll be able to do that and fill the loop finally and do a first boot in part 3 hopefully I think it's gonna happen so stay tuned for that brian's advice came in handy a lot i used pretty much every tip he gave me and it was a lifesaver guys once again check his channel out and thanks brian for being a part of this video some of my own experiences however were that if you happen to cut down a run almost too short so that it falls short of a particular fitting if you have the option to what helped us a lot was actually sliding the radiators just you know maybe it's only a centimeter or two but that actually keeps you from having to start a completely new run wasting more materials and time so that was a huge huge help now i also picked up this angling tool from XS pc which would have been real handy if it actually fit the tubing we were using that was my bad so what we ended up having to do was improvising drawing some flat lines 90-degree and 45 degree lines on a piece of paper and measuring the tubes or angling the tubes that way which actually worked just fine and especially since you're laying it flat on the table it helps it just stay all the more aligned when you're doing your runs overall this has been a very positive experience very challenging obviously very rewarding when you get it right compared to hot line this is a completely different animal we're dealing with two loops here that have to be running side by side not interfering and also looking good next to each other so there's a lot more planning involved much more detailed going into it so guys thank you so much if you liked what you saw go ahead and toss I like on the video be sure to subscribe to the channel for more tech stuff coming at you really soon you can also check me out on floatplane a little link in the description below have a good one guys I will see you all in the next videothe Ripjaws km 570 mechanical keyboard from g.skill features cherry MX speed silver switches RGB perky lighting and on-the-fly macro recording for a premium gaming experience meanwhile the MX 780 sports 8 programmable buttons three-zone custom RGB lighting and an ambidextrous designed with height adjustment click the link in the description to learn more what's going on guys welcome back to the channel hope you're all doing well today is the long-awaited part 2 of the enthu elite build our 10000 ish dollar system that we're gonna be building from the ground up there have been some changes since part 1 many things have transpired so before we dive into the actual build section because we're actually installing things in the case today I wanted to quickly go over what has changed since part 1 for starters a lot of you guys were telling me to deal it'd that core I 9 79 80 X II or you would do terrible things to me so help against my will I decided to turn this in to the folks over at gamers Nexus gamers Nexus Steve actually did a fantastic job deleting this guy and applying some liquid metal himself in order to lower our thermals and increase power efficiency and other good things like that so I can't wait to actually get this thing installed and take it for a spin especially with this ridiculous custom loop that we're building around it it should be pretty exciting but during his testing and you guys should definitely go and check out his video I'll put a link in the description below that he did with the rampage 6 extreme motherboard and this particular CPU he found that that motherboard was actually throttling the core frequency due to an overheating vrm so because of that and Steve's infinite wisdom I've decided to invest in an asus rog rampage 6 extreme mono block that will hopefully lower the temperatures on our BRM enough so we don't encounter any thermal throttling because the last thing we want is for this thing to be super nice and deleted and all that and get ruined at the end of the day by the motherboard so additionally I have since done away with the single reservoir and loop idea we're actually gonna be doing two loops so I've actually got some new hardware here the ekx res 140 Revo d5 RGB PWM pump res combos we've got two of them one loop is probably going to be for our CPU and the other for our graphics additionally about that I have one of them installed we're still waiting on the other GTX 1080p I from Asus we ran into some ridiculous shipping mishaps recently so it's actually on its way long story short it will be here shortly and I will be able to continue just fine but everything's in order for that I'm very excited to be doing a dual loop system though for the first time additionally you might notice this stack of ll series RGB fans from Corsair we have six one 20s and six one 40s with their included commander Pro digital fan and RGB lighting controllers those will be situated on our four radiators here and going with the dual loop configuration we are gonna have two radiators per loop so we're gonna have a 480 and a 360 for each of our loops which is pretty insane covered by these fantastic fans no pun intended we've also got some new storage situation here so we've got 2 m2 SSDs these are both nvme we've got the 960 Evo these are both from Samsung this is a 250 gig version or model that we're gonna be using as a boot drive and then we've got a 2 terabyte stick that's just gonna be for our scratch disk and bigger applications all of our raw footage and things like that if we're gonna be editing games and so forth I may invest in a second 2 terabyte drive I think we have enough lanes for for that to happen so maybe we'll do some raid action that may be pretty sweet this is an overkill system after all and then finally we've got the plateau max DF series power supply from enter backs that I showed off in part 1 but this is just a quick verbal updates that we do have some custom sleeved cables from Joey @n sourced on the way they are in the mail he's already done with them I'm not gonna give too much away as far as the pattern and colors that were using I mean you can probably figure out that it's gonna be more or less color neutral but they are gonna be some really sweet cables so I can't wait to show those off as well but I want to start trying to bend some tubes by the end of this part 1 or part 2 video so we got to get everything installed radiators the fans let's go ahead and do that now and see how far we get it's gonna be intense alright guys check out the progress we've made looks pretty sweet things are going pretty smoothly you can see that we have very little clearance between this rightmost pump rez and the radiator like the fittings just like maybe a millimeter away from the fin stack it's just just by a hair and actually the the back plate here for modular plate that we mounted these pump presses - I thought it supported two side by side reservoirs but apparently it only has the mounting strips for one of them so I actually only have one side of this reservoir mounted to that bracket you can see here if we take a look at the backside I actually had to zip-tie one side to part of the bracket so it's kind of ghetto rigged here and you can't even tell from the other side it looks perfectly fine it might be slightly tilted but I can always tweak that a little bit later but apart from that everything is going pretty smoothly here the fans and radiators are fitting just fine had just you know just enough clearance between this this radiator fan and and the pump res there but yeah looking good now after I set all this up I spent a good hour and a half just looking at this system trying to figure out where my runs would go because obviously we're dealing with two loops now and it kind of makes things a little bit more complicated but I think I figured it out for the most part so I'm gonna share with you guys my idea for for each of these runs and we're gonna get to tube bending so for for this pump res I was thinking this would control the the CPU loop this would be our CPU loop right so and don't pay attention to the fittings they're just here for placeholders they don't necessarily indicate the direction that the tubes will be going so this is the outlet here I was thinking I was gonna go out just slightly over and then up and then go straight across into the monoblock out of the monoblock and then we're gonna go diagonally back into the corner of the case before going straight up into this Inlet for the radiator we're going to come down here all the way down it's going to go back and then into that back port then from here it's gonna go up just ever so slightly just barely above the fan it's gonna go all the way to the end of the fans straight back and then straight back up to the inlet so that would be our cpu loop now our GPU loops gonna be a little tricky because it's gonna have to avoid all of the runs from our CPU loop it's gonna get kind of messy in this area here but but hear me out we're gonna go out then we're gonna go all the way back and maybe I'll do some like like a little bit of bendy magic going straight into this Inlet here and then it's gonna go to both of our GPUs and it's gonna come out this guy another boom it's gonna come out back here down below maybe back into this inlet out here in the end of there and then finally returning from the the bottom radiator bottom of the radiator into our pump rest so that is the tentative plan for now as far as the runs go and you know I'm gonna try to be flexible if something's not working out then I'm totally willing to switch it up and it's all about problem solving at this point but on that note I think we are ready to start bending some tubes however since I am pretty much as noob as they come when it comes to custom water cooling and to bending I'm actually gonna call upon my good friend Brian Stroh from bps Kustoms you guys should go check his channel out if you haven't yet tons of good stuff there reviews builds lots of custom work he does a great job over there but Brian's gonna help me out a little bit he's gonna give me a couple pointers that he's learned over his several years of being a custom water cooling enthusiast so that maybe I have a little bit easier time figuring this all out as I go about the end through elite builds and maybe you guys will learn something too all the while I'm gonna just go ahead and jump into to bending so you guys have some nice visuals to overlap on his sexy ass voice without further ado guys let's get bending what's going on guys my name is Brian I run the bps Kustoms YouTube channel I'm sure Kyle will drop a link down there somewhere and if he doesn't he's a jerk but I'm here with my very wobbly table to give you guys some tips and also some tricks as far as how to approach your next water cooling project now keep in mind that some of these might seem like fairly basic techniques however when it comes to something like water cooling especially if you're doing an overkill system like Kyle is right now if you don't have the basics down you're going to run into problems you're not only waste materials but you could end up with a flooded box of electronics and that's not good for anybody first thing you need before you even start is the right tools now you're gonna need a heat gun preferably one that stands up on its own so you don't have to hold it while you're doing your tubes second thing something to cut the tube with the last thing you definitely need if you're dealing with hardline is one of these little silly so uh silicone inserts because without this your tube will collapse when you try to bend it now another thing that I highly recommend having on hand is something to finish the ends of your tubing with now what I mean by that is a lot of times when you cut PE TG or acrylic you'll end up with a not perfectly smooth edge or even worse you could have a bur if you insert that edge into a fitting you could slice through the rubber o-ring and cause a leak a lot of times when people have leaks inside their system it's not necessarily because that fitting was bad from the factory rather they damaged it during installation there's a couple different ways you can prevent this from happening you can buy this from Home Depot this is called a deep burrow deeper deeper it's about three dollars you could do both the inside and the outside of the tube with this put the tube in and you just spin it the best way that I found to smooth out the edges of the tube however is with this this is a primo shield rigid finishing bit it fits into the end of a drill you put it into the tube like this and then you spin the drill you could actually use this tool to make minor adjustments in the length of the tube as well as just smooth out the edges let's get to bending what you want to do is make sure your heat gun is on low or medium heat high heat and any form will cause this tube to blister so you don't want to hold it too close you also don't want to hold it too far away to make sure that it's getting appropriately heated keep it a couple inches off rock it back and forth while spinning it like a rotisserie if you're not rocking it back and forth you're only heating one spot in the tube and when you go to bend it you don't kink so when everything is all heated up the way you know that it's ready to be bent is that the tube will actually lose some structural integrity and start to bend on its own bend the tube slowly and with even pressure don't rush it into place and when it's all done when it's at the angle you want take it off the heat and allow it to cool naturally you could blow on it a little bit don't dip it into water that's a bad idea keep in mind as PE TG or acrylic cools because the material is contracting it does tend to go back towards being straight now not gonna snap back into the straight position however you might open up the angle a little bit if you just leave it and instead of a 90 you might end up with like a hundred degree angle in order to prevent that hold the tube in place until it's cool for those of you who are beginners or even intermediate to benders something like this can certainly help you out this is the Barrow bending kit it comes in different sizes this one I think actually is the 16 millimeter size and I'm dealing with some 12 millimeter tubing here however you get the idea you could actually bolt these down to a piece of woods that you have them affixed in place and you could bend around them or you could just hold a freehand they actually help you tremendously when it comes to getting precise angles on your bends because they are all marked up to 180 degrees the same thing applies to freehand bending if you're using one of these bending kits and you take your tube and bend it around the corner you're gonna need to make sure that you hold it there because if you don't it'll actually retract a little bit and you'll end up with the wrong angle now the last thing I want to talk about is measuring a lot of people think that they could take a straight piece of tube put a little mark on it bend it at that mark and then you're gonna have the perfect distance between fittings it's not how it works first of all if you put a mark on this tube especially with something like a sharpie when you heat the tube to bend it you're actually gonna bake that Sharpie right into the finish and not be able to get it off the second thing is that tube ends don't actually terminate at the same point that you start the bend this is because the middle of the bend is actually pushed back about maybe a half an inch or so from where that final Bend comes down the thing you want to do when you're measuring your tubing runs is that say you have four inches between fittings before you need to make a 90-degree turn you don't want to measure and Bend this tube at 4 inches if you do that when you make the radial Bend you're actually going to end up at about 4 and a half 4 and 3/4 inches and you're gonna be way too far this Bend actually extends the tube and if you if you look at it you actually want to start bending up maybe three and a half inches and then you'll end up at the right spot this takes some getting used to some practice and a lot of patience alright guys so after much time effort and patience we finally got some of the runs done today as you can see all the runs for our CPU loop are complete it looks fantastic I think the only one I would redo is this one right here so maybe we can do away with these extensions might make it look a little bit cleaner but we still have the GPU loop to do obviously we're still waiting on that second GTX 1080i so once that rolls in we'll be able to do that and fill the loop finally and do a first boot in part 3 hopefully I think it's gonna happen so stay tuned for that brian's advice came in handy a lot i used pretty much every tip he gave me and it was a lifesaver guys once again check his channel out and thanks brian for being a part of this video some of my own experiences however were that if you happen to cut down a run almost too short so that it falls short of a particular fitting if you have the option to what helped us a lot was actually sliding the radiators just you know maybe it's only a centimeter or two but that actually keeps you from having to start a completely new run wasting more materials and time so that was a huge huge help now i also picked up this angling tool from XS pc which would have been real handy if it actually fit the tubing we were using that was my bad so what we ended up having to do was improvising drawing some flat lines 90-degree and 45 degree lines on a piece of paper and measuring the tubes or angling the tubes that way which actually worked just fine and especially since you're laying it flat on the table it helps it just stay all the more aligned when you're doing your runs overall this has been a very positive experience very challenging obviously very rewarding when you get it right compared to hot line this is a completely different animal we're dealing with two loops here that have to be running side by side not interfering and also looking good next to each other so there's a lot more planning involved much more detailed going into it so guys thank you so much if you liked what you saw go ahead and toss I like on the video be sure to subscribe to the channel for more tech stuff coming at you really soon you can also check me out on floatplane a little link in the description below have a good one guys I will see you all in the next video\n"