I ruined another GPU....

The Art of Building and Testing a High-Performance PC: A Personal Journey

Right now, if it's plenty, I was really surprised to see how not flat this dye was with that initial pattern of it being an L-shape. It just makes me feel a little less crazy because I was like, "I know I can mount a pot and why does it keep giving me this off-centered kind of a thing?" And then when I would finally get it nice and tight in the center, why was I getting a ring all around it, not touching anything. Too, I'm going to address this now.

Some of you might be wondering, like, well if this is so beneficial, why don't the manufacturers do it? That's because this is only to eke out like that last couple of percent of performance that are related to the extreme temperatures and the way that thermal paste reacts in the extreme temperature specifically. The extreme thermal paste, like the KPX or the Kingpin Extreme or the Pink Cryo Knot, these that are designed to go like down to minus 200 plus temperatures cause a lot of physical changes in terms of the um, the gap of air that can happen between the dye and the pot if thermal paste gets too thick right there it can crack. And so by doing this and getting it as flat as possible, it extremely eliminates, by extremely eliminates it, extremely reduces the likelihood of cracking something no one will ever experience at any of the temperatures people operate even on water. So that's not something the manufacturers need to be concerned about.

I've been trying to be healthier and I'm bringing my pre-made lunches to work now but I just remembered we don't have a microwave, and I have no way to heat it up. Okay, so Nick is over here filling up some thermoses. I already did a test boot on this to make sure that it gives me a video signal, so that's a win. And I've got everything ready to go. So I've got my clamp on here which is not putting a lot of pressure on it just enough to make sure we keep nice flush contact in the center of the die. In fact, I don't want to tighten that down anymore.

So we are going to let Phil maybe do some b-roll of this because I have a superstition that this microphone and its transmitter affects my overclocks, so we're going to do the same process we always do: bring down the pot temp torch it back to warm, bring it down again torch it to warm again bring it down. And then whoa, not unplug stuff and then do our runs. Because that hot cold hot cold actually gets the pot ready faster than just letting it sit there and soak.

I'm gonna turn off the mic and we're going to see if I can beat eighteen thousand zero nine one today. If I can, I can go a little bit higher, might beat that damn OCP or gold cop guy or whatever his name is, the German dude. So I'm actually going to take the card apart and check them out.

We weren't we were getting about halfway through the run on 26.55 but unfortunately, I wasn't careful as I was undoing the screw and I accidentally knocked this guy off right here. This belongs there. Well like that. This card is done for now; it's a don't lose it. Although I'm sure Vince has more where that is going to be okay. No, I'm not gonna do my repair method that you guys have seen me do before anyone with true soldering skills like Lewis Rosman or anyone's got magnifying glass and flux and all the proper crap to do that can get that back on right there.

So let's go ahead and check out the mount. I do have another Kingpin card that I'll probably just go ahead and lap real quick and test and, will let you guys wonder if it worked or not because we need to end this video. If we're going to pull that straight up, we're getting a much better mount. It has a little bit of that goopiness because when you pick it up the suction right but I can tell you right now it's getting to the edges better but I feel like on the second card that I do this to right now, I'm going to probably lap it with something a little bit uh coarser grit if you will.

The Lapping Process: A Crucial Step in Achieving Optimal Performance

I am going to go ahead and lap this card with a slightly coarser grit. This is a crucial step in achieving optimal performance, as it helps to ensure that the thermal paste is evenly distributed and that there are no air pockets or gaps between the dye and the pot.

The Importance of Mounting and Thermal Paste

Mounting the pot correctly is essential for ensuring optimal performance. The L-shape pattern of the dye can create a ring around the pot, which can affect its ability to dissipate heat effectively. By using thermal paste specifically designed for extreme temperatures, manufacturers can minimize this effect and ensure that their products perform at their best.

Overcoming Obstacles: From Accidents to Superglue

I've learned from my mistakes and now I'm more careful when working with delicate components. When something goes wrong, it's not the end of the world. Sometimes, all you need is a little bit of superglue to fix things up again.

The Thrill of Building: Overcoming Challenges and Pushing Boundaries

Building a high-performance PC can be a thrilling experience, but it also comes with its fair share of challenges. Whether it's dealing with thermal paste or accidentally knocking off a component, there's always something to overcome. But that's what makes it so rewarding when you finally get everything working together seamlessly.

The Future of PC Building: Trends and Innovations

As the world of PC building continues to evolve, we can expect to see new trends and innovations emerge. With advancements in materials science, thermal management, and component design, builders will be able to push their creations even further than ever before.

Conclusion

Building a high-performance PC is a journey that requires patience, dedication, and attention to detail. It's not just about slapping together components and hoping for the best; it's an art form that requires a deep understanding of how everything works together.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enall right i said in a previous video i wasn't going to do this because i was too scared to do it but i think i decided to be a little bit less scared because i'm not going to get any farther unless i do this what i'm actually scared of is failure of not going farther not damaging evga is proud to announce their all new xr1 obs certified 4k capture card record at 1080p 60 while you game at 4k60 with hdr with advanced pass-through mode that allows you to switch to 144hz refresh rate at the press of a button meaning no longer do you need to disconnect or disable to get the full capabilities of your display to see the full list of capabilities and configurations click the evga link in the description below okay so we're gonna do this in a couple of parts um i'm going to make an attempt at lapping well that's kind of weird because the glass not lapping this uh 30 90 gpu now here's the thing this is not the kingpin card this is one of the four the one three cards that we initially started uh all this overclocking crap with last year and you know there's some things i've talked to some of the xoc guys including vince himself bearded hardware i know for a fact that the new galax cards that are at the top of the list there's like three or four of them now uh which i suspect is actually more or less one or two cards being passed around the community but regardless i digress um i mentioned a long time ago actually i think it was during the live stream that steve and i did when i was at evga and steve was back at his headquarters i mentioned that these letters on the die specifically on the 30 90s and 3080s are much more raised than they are on previous generations so that's like etched in there or something and vince told me he's like oh yeah absolutely can the height of those letters affect your mount when you're dealing with extreme temperatures of ln2 and you know minus 140 150 degrees celsius so what a lot of the xoc guys will do to get to that next level of getting the perfect mount that will allow the pace to withstand the super cold temperatures without cracking is at the very least lap the die to remove these letters so what i'm going to do right now is just me taking you along for a ride of a technology technology no tech technique that's it the other tech that i kind of came up with in my head on how to lap this with minimal um damage i guess you will here's the thing that is the actual die that's exposed it's not doesn't have an ihs or heat spreader on top of it that is the die so if i screw this up this is a goner so that's why i'm at least going to try this on a 30 90 for the wind and you might be wondering like jay why not use one of the old cards to practice well the problem is the old cards dies are about a quarter the size of this one so in order to get the technique right i've got to try it on something roughly the same size i could have also grabbed a 2080 ti or something like that which has a almost similar size die it's a little bit smaller i'm just figuring at this point i might as well at least give it a shot and see what we've got here so here's here's my technique that i'm that i'm kind of coming up with most people i've been told are just using a sanding block on this to at least get the numbers down my problem are the letters and numbers and the etching my problem is i don't want to cause a bigger problem of causing some uneven sanding so what i'm doing is i'm taking the bottom portion of an ek water block here i'm going to lap this so i know this is perfectly flat i'm then going to adhesive either through double-sided scotch tape if it'll hold well enough um if not then i might actually do spray adhesive on here i'm then going to adhesive sandpaper to this and i'm going to use this to lap my die so i'll turn this into a sanding block that i know is as flat as possible the problem with sanding blocks is a lot of times they're squishy in some aspects so that means i could start sanding the edges down and not get flat that would cause me a bigger problem as i look at the uh the pot and i don't have it here actually nick can go grab the pot the mounting pot this ln2 pot is solid copper and if you look at it you can see the only outline you see are the letters oftentimes you can see an outline of the actual die like a square and the reason why we don't see that is i'm not getting this pot even though it's soft copper to get a full mount all the way to the edges which is causing me to have a hard limit right now of about 26.55 on how far i can go on this on this gpu and those galax cards that are at the top like i said all the xoc guys are basically saying those are lap that's that's a lap die at least one of them is a lap die and that's what's allowing them to go extreme cold temperatures which is allowing them even higher voltages and higher core clocks of almost 2 900 megahertz on port royal over three gigahertz already achieved on some of the other hw bot type stuff that they do so as you can see they're saying it matters but this is this is another clue here that these raised letters are possibly causing me a problem too of not getting good um mount all the way to the edge i've showed before i'll get like a circle and then the edges all have thicker dial or thicker grease on them which is causing me to have bad mount problems and keeping me from being able to go any farther than i am because it starts to get hot spots on the die and then it crashes so those letters are also that are literally being transferred to the copper are telling me that even though i am mounting it as tight as i can nick was sketched i basically took that c clamp and put my weight on it on how hard i was pushing it against the cot this copper pot to try and get a good mount nick was like i can't believe the card is surviving because remember i am literally screwing it down not on this one this one doesn't have all mlcc's so at least i'm able to to get my when i push the c-clamp on here it pushes directly on the mlcc's i just got to make sure i don't crush them when i'm doing this but i think by doing this method i may not have to go quite so tight on that but because when we do tighten down on these screws right here the bow the board does bow slightly ooh that crunching sound the board does bow slightly which can actually cause us to have a bad mount in the center so i'm just going to be using the c-clamp to flatten that back out until i get custom backplate made to hold this all down like some of the other guys are so without showing you guys all the process of lapping i've showed this a million times maybe i'll just have phil do some b-roll here of me doing the process here on this and then we'll take you along for the ride of doing it to the actual card and if this all works and the card still posts then we'll do it so here's my little homemade sanding block looks kind of crappy on the edger i just had to trim it and i made it look all ugly that's okay that doesn't matter so i'm gonna make sure it's all nice and squished down on the tape i don't know okay let's just the letters are gone already right yeah like they're there but you don't feel them okay well it's also 2000 grit so it's not going to be taking off a lot of material but i obviously i don't want to go scratching into the dial a hard you know i feel like getting the number or the letters off of there is like step one i'm also making sure i don't knock anything off of the substrate like around the pcb or around the gpu i don't know where it's like you know what you've gone too deep you know what i mean because the letters i can still see the letters there like they're etched in there right so you're going to see them no matter what i think but wow that's so smooth because here's the thing when they cut these wafers right you can still see the machine marks where they like slice it it's like a machine that just kind of like like cuts it all like flat right or sands it or whatever um all those machine marks are gone now too and the letters can't fill in with the fingernail well maybe slightly okay a little more starting maybe 1500 would have been the right grit but i'd rather start like with a nice super fine grit finishing grit rather than me like you know what 600 just dug right in so what i'm doing now is i'm just going to mount the pot to it turn it on make sure it boots and then we'll look at the mount afterwards but i already lapped this pot if you guys didn't catch that video that was last week so if you guys haven't looked at the leaderboard we actually beat our last score remember eighteen thousand eighteen look what we got we broke eighteen thousand happy with eighteen thousand ninety one just by going up one more one more boost bin so went from 26 25 to 26 40. we're working on 26.55 when i went you know what enough's enough we need to uh probably do this because i was dealing with pace cracking at around -145 and sometimes if the if the test crashes and there's ln2 in the pot even if i'm blowing a torch at it it still runs away and then it cracks the pace and we're constantly doing pace healing and i'm trying to at least get to a point to where i can get those first three or four runs to truly count okay moment of truth let's see if it even boots hey we got video look at that that's a good time i want to look at the spread now here's the thing the spread definitely changes over the the cult so right now it's still going to be super gloopy so it's going to be heart gloopy gloppy blobby it's going to be hard to see how well the spread really works um when the paste gets super cold and it thickens up it makes a really good imprint on how the mount was i'm not going to have that right now but i feel like this will give me a pretty good idea of what to expect and one of the things i'm going to do too before i do this is i'm actually going to throw the card in our ultrasonic cleaner get it nice and clean because there's so much crud on it from all the tape and the insulation material and all that so i need to get the card nice and clean before i do this look how far to the edges that went oh wow without even using the clamp in fact here's a perfect comparison here's the 30 90 that we just did look at that it's all so i'll probably clean this car too obviously you see how far to the edges that went without the clamp here is what my kingpin 3090 has been looking like with the clamp compare the two do you see this do you see the actual circular pattern in the center with how thick the thermal grease is around the edges compared to that one we might finally have gotten somewhere all right so here's my nice and cleaned off kingpin 3090 this is the same exact card that we've been using for uh our test now for what over 200 runs or so this is the same as that card we hit 2640 on so i now will be able to have a pretty good and that spreadsheet i did uh well that nick filled out as we were doing our testing is awesome because now i know exactly where i can pick up and not have to really waste any any effort here one thing i want to point out though and i'm not sure if if phil can get it on camera i'll try and get it right for him you can see there's some like slight pitting and scratching on the die i think that's just from the constant remounting like little bits of debris can kind of get in there sometimes when you put on the thermal paste and if you're squishing it down real tight with the pot so i think this is going to have a lot of additional benefit to it than just lapping it to get a better mount i think we're going to make the whole surface a lot smoother than it was so here goes nothing and yes this is still scary oh wow it feels different the other one too like it feels uneven wow you know what's funny about that so if you look at the standing pattern on there see it's like a l it's like two sides that's the side that i'm constantly getting the most thermal paste on like the opposite side i should say so it i was always getting this l kind of a pattern i'm like why can't i get this to mount right i even mentioned my last video i'm like i think these two were too tight or something because it wasn't going even which is crazy so maybe i'm not crazy maybe this die isn't flat like i don't think any of them are perfectly flat but i think this one was like more off than expected so after a sam pepper sand pepper after a sandpaper replacement yeah that's way better look at that so you can see all the the sanding marks are all even all the way across it now this one was like really not flat and the letters were very raised versus the other one let's talk about something real quick before we go over there and see what the results are uh with the ln2 i'm not pushing down on this i'm i'm trying to keep even pressure on it so it doesn't like tilt like that but this is a pretty heavy piece of metal it's copper that's nickel plated copper and it's pretty weighty so i'm letting the weight of it kind of do its thing as i'm keeping my finger in the center as much as i can and i'm only allowing it me to push down hard enough to make sure it doesn't lift up or tilt then i'm just doing circles opposite directions back and forth like this this is my first time doing this i'm sure xoc guys have been doing this forever could chime in on what grit they use whether they use something a little more coarse whether or not they think 2000 grits plenty i think we're gonna find out on my own right now if it's plenty i was really surprised to see how not flat this dye was with that initial pattern of it being an l-shape it just makes me feel a little less crazy because i was like i know i can mount a pot and why does it keep giving me like this off-centered kind of a thing and then when i would finally get it nice and tight in the center why was i getting a ring all around it of it not touching anything also too i'm going to address this now some of you might be wondering like well if this is so beneficial why don't the manufacturers do it that's because this is only to eke out like that last couple of percent of performance that are related to the extreme temperatures and the way that thermal paste reacts in the extreme temperature specifically the extreme thermal paste like the kpx or the kingpin extreme or the pink cryo knot these that are designed to go like down to minus 200 plus temperatures cause a lot of physical changes in terms of the um the gap of air that can happen between the dye and the pot if thermal paste gets too thick right there it can crack and so by doing this and getting it as flat as possible it extremely eliminates by extremely eliminates it extremely reduces the likelihood of cracking something no one will ever experience at any of the temperatures people operate even on water so that's not something the manufacturers need to be concerned about so i've been trying to be healthier and i'm bringing my pre-made lunches to work now but i just remembered we don't have a microwave and i have no way to heat it up all right so nick is over here filling up some thermoses i already did a test boot on this to make sure that it gives me a video signal so that's a win and i've got everything ready to go so i've got my clamp on here which is not putting a lot of pressure on it just enough to make sure we keep nice flush contact in the center of the die in fact i don't want to tighten that down anymore so here's what we're going to do we are going to i guess just let phil maybe do some b-roll of this because i have a superstition that this microphone and its transmitter affects my overclocks so we're going to do the same process we always do bring down the pot temp torch it back to warm bring it down again torch it to warm again bring it down and then whoa not unplug stuff and then do our runs because that hot cold hot cold actually gets the pot ready faster than just letting it sit there and soak so i'm gonna turn off the mic and we're gonna see if i can beat eighteen thousand zero nine one today if i can i can go a little bit higher i might beat that damn ocp or gold damn cop guy or whatever his name is the german dude so i'm actually going to take the card apart and check them out we weren't we were getting about halfway through the run on 26.55 but unfortunately i wasn't careful as i was undoing the screw and i accidentally knocked this guy off right here this belongs there well like that this card is done for now it's a don't lose it although i'm sure vince has more where is it okay i'm not gonna do my repair method that you guys have seen me do before anyone with a true soldering skills like lewis rosman or anyone's got magnifying glass and flux and all the proper crap to do that can get that back on right there so i'm going to be sending this probably back to vince to repair vince will be able to repair that no problem but let's go ahead and check out the mount i do have another kingpin card that i'll probably just go ahead and lap real quick and test and i will let you guys wonder if it worked or not because we need to end this video so if we're going to pull that straight up we're getting a much better mount it has a little bit of that goopiness because when you pick it up the suction right but i can tell you right now it's getting to the edges better but i feel like on the second card that i do this to right now i'm going to probably lap it with something a little bit uh coarser grit if you will so that's we're going to go ahead and end it i know it's a little disappointing to not be like oh my god jay beat his score in this video the lapping part was a success the careless part of knocking off a capacitor utter failure this is the risk you take i guess when you start getting in a hurry and aren't careful thanks for watching guys and we'll see in the next one and if you want to know if i actually end up beating my score just periodically check the uh port royal hall of fameall right i said in a previous video i wasn't going to do this because i was too scared to do it but i think i decided to be a little bit less scared because i'm not going to get any farther unless i do this what i'm actually scared of is failure of not going farther not damaging evga is proud to announce their all new xr1 obs certified 4k capture card record at 1080p 60 while you game at 4k60 with hdr with advanced pass-through mode that allows you to switch to 144hz refresh rate at the press of a button meaning no longer do you need to disconnect or disable to get the full capabilities of your display to see the full list of capabilities and configurations click the evga link in the description below okay so we're gonna do this in a couple of parts um i'm going to make an attempt at lapping well that's kind of weird because the glass not lapping this uh 30 90 gpu now here's the thing this is not the kingpin card this is one of the four the one three cards that we initially started uh all this overclocking crap with last year and you know there's some things i've talked to some of the xoc guys including vince himself bearded hardware i know for a fact that the new galax cards that are at the top of the list there's like three or four of them now uh which i suspect is actually more or less one or two cards being passed around the community but regardless i digress um i mentioned a long time ago actually i think it was during the live stream that steve and i did when i was at evga and steve was back at his headquarters i mentioned that these letters on the die specifically on the 30 90s and 3080s are much more raised than they are on previous generations so that's like etched in there or something and vince told me he's like oh yeah absolutely can the height of those letters affect your mount when you're dealing with extreme temperatures of ln2 and you know minus 140 150 degrees celsius so what a lot of the xoc guys will do to get to that next level of getting the perfect mount that will allow the pace to withstand the super cold temperatures without cracking is at the very least lap the die to remove these letters so what i'm going to do right now is just me taking you along for a ride of a technology technology no tech technique that's it the other tech that i kind of came up with in my head on how to lap this with minimal um damage i guess you will here's the thing that is the actual die that's exposed it's not doesn't have an ihs or heat spreader on top of it that is the die so if i screw this up this is a goner so that's why i'm at least going to try this on a 30 90 for the wind and you might be wondering like jay why not use one of the old cards to practice well the problem is the old cards dies are about a quarter the size of this one so in order to get the technique right i've got to try it on something roughly the same size i could have also grabbed a 2080 ti or something like that which has a almost similar size die it's a little bit smaller i'm just figuring at this point i might as well at least give it a shot and see what we've got here so here's here's my technique that i'm that i'm kind of coming up with most people i've been told are just using a sanding block on this to at least get the numbers down my problem are the letters and numbers and the etching my problem is i don't want to cause a bigger problem of causing some uneven sanding so what i'm doing is i'm taking the bottom portion of an ek water block here i'm going to lap this so i know this is perfectly flat i'm then going to adhesive either through double-sided scotch tape if it'll hold well enough um if not then i might actually do spray adhesive on here i'm then going to adhesive sandpaper to this and i'm going to use this to lap my die so i'll turn this into a sanding block that i know is as flat as possible the problem with sanding blocks is a lot of times they're squishy in some aspects so that means i could start sanding the edges down and not get flat that would cause me a bigger problem as i look at the uh the pot and i don't have it here actually nick can go grab the pot the mounting pot this ln2 pot is solid copper and if you look at it you can see the only outline you see are the letters oftentimes you can see an outline of the actual die like a square and the reason why we don't see that is i'm not getting this pot even though it's soft copper to get a full mount all the way to the edges which is causing me to have a hard limit right now of about 26.55 on how far i can go on this on this gpu and those galax cards that are at the top like i said all the xoc guys are basically saying those are lap that's that's a lap die at least one of them is a lap die and that's what's allowing them to go extreme cold temperatures which is allowing them even higher voltages and higher core clocks of almost 2 900 megahertz on port royal over three gigahertz already achieved on some of the other hw bot type stuff that they do so as you can see they're saying it matters but this is this is another clue here that these raised letters are possibly causing me a problem too of not getting good um mount all the way to the edge i've showed before i'll get like a circle and then the edges all have thicker dial or thicker grease on them which is causing me to have bad mount problems and keeping me from being able to go any farther than i am because it starts to get hot spots on the die and then it crashes so those letters are also that are literally being transferred to the copper are telling me that even though i am mounting it as tight as i can nick was sketched i basically took that c clamp and put my weight on it on how hard i was pushing it against the cot this copper pot to try and get a good mount nick was like i can't believe the card is surviving because remember i am literally screwing it down not on this one this one doesn't have all mlcc's so at least i'm able to to get my when i push the c-clamp on here it pushes directly on the mlcc's i just got to make sure i don't crush them when i'm doing this but i think by doing this method i may not have to go quite so tight on that but because when we do tighten down on these screws right here the bow the board does bow slightly ooh that crunching sound the board does bow slightly which can actually cause us to have a bad mount in the center so i'm just going to be using the c-clamp to flatten that back out until i get custom backplate made to hold this all down like some of the other guys are so without showing you guys all the process of lapping i've showed this a million times maybe i'll just have phil do some b-roll here of me doing the process here on this and then we'll take you along for the ride of doing it to the actual card and if this all works and the card still posts then we'll do it so here's my little homemade sanding block looks kind of crappy on the edger i just had to trim it and i made it look all ugly that's okay that doesn't matter so i'm gonna make sure it's all nice and squished down on the tape i don't know okay let's just the letters are gone already right yeah like they're there but you don't feel them okay well it's also 2000 grit so it's not going to be taking off a lot of material but i obviously i don't want to go scratching into the dial a hard you know i feel like getting the number or the letters off of there is like step one i'm also making sure i don't knock anything off of the substrate like around the pcb or around the gpu i don't know where it's like you know what you've gone too deep you know what i mean because the letters i can still see the letters there like they're etched in there right so you're going to see them no matter what i think but wow that's so smooth because here's the thing when they cut these wafers right you can still see the machine marks where they like slice it it's like a machine that just kind of like like cuts it all like flat right or sands it or whatever um all those machine marks are gone now too and the letters can't fill in with the fingernail well maybe slightly okay a little more starting maybe 1500 would have been the right grit but i'd rather start like with a nice super fine grit finishing grit rather than me like you know what 600 just dug right in so what i'm doing now is i'm just going to mount the pot to it turn it on make sure it boots and then we'll look at the mount afterwards but i already lapped this pot if you guys didn't catch that video that was last week so if you guys haven't looked at the leaderboard we actually beat our last score remember eighteen thousand eighteen look what we got we broke eighteen thousand happy with eighteen thousand ninety one just by going up one more one more boost bin so went from 26 25 to 26 40. we're working on 26.55 when i went you know what enough's enough we need to uh probably do this because i was dealing with pace cracking at around -145 and sometimes if the if the test crashes and there's ln2 in the pot even if i'm blowing a torch at it it still runs away and then it cracks the pace and we're constantly doing pace healing and i'm trying to at least get to a point to where i can get those first three or four runs to truly count okay moment of truth let's see if it even boots hey we got video look at that that's a good time i want to look at the spread now here's the thing the spread definitely changes over the the cult so right now it's still going to be super gloopy so it's going to be heart gloopy gloppy blobby it's going to be hard to see how well the spread really works um when the paste gets super cold and it thickens up it makes a really good imprint on how the mount was i'm not going to have that right now but i feel like this will give me a pretty good idea of what to expect and one of the things i'm going to do too before i do this is i'm actually going to throw the card in our ultrasonic cleaner get it nice and clean because there's so much crud on it from all the tape and the insulation material and all that so i need to get the card nice and clean before i do this look how far to the edges that went oh wow without even using the clamp in fact here's a perfect comparison here's the 30 90 that we just did look at that it's all so i'll probably clean this car too obviously you see how far to the edges that went without the clamp here is what my kingpin 3090 has been looking like with the clamp compare the two do you see this do you see the actual circular pattern in the center with how thick the thermal grease is around the edges compared to that one we might finally have gotten somewhere all right so here's my nice and cleaned off kingpin 3090 this is the same exact card that we've been using for uh our test now for what over 200 runs or so this is the same as that card we hit 2640 on so i now will be able to have a pretty good and that spreadsheet i did uh well that nick filled out as we were doing our testing is awesome because now i know exactly where i can pick up and not have to really waste any any effort here one thing i want to point out though and i'm not sure if if phil can get it on camera i'll try and get it right for him you can see there's some like slight pitting and scratching on the die i think that's just from the constant remounting like little bits of debris can kind of get in there sometimes when you put on the thermal paste and if you're squishing it down real tight with the pot so i think this is going to have a lot of additional benefit to it than just lapping it to get a better mount i think we're going to make the whole surface a lot smoother than it was so here goes nothing and yes this is still scary oh wow it feels different the other one too like it feels uneven wow you know what's funny about that so if you look at the standing pattern on there see it's like a l it's like two sides that's the side that i'm constantly getting the most thermal paste on like the opposite side i should say so it i was always getting this l kind of a pattern i'm like why can't i get this to mount right i even mentioned my last video i'm like i think these two were too tight or something because it wasn't going even which is crazy so maybe i'm not crazy maybe this die isn't flat like i don't think any of them are perfectly flat but i think this one was like more off than expected so after a sam pepper sand pepper after a sandpaper replacement yeah that's way better look at that so you can see all the the sanding marks are all even all the way across it now this one was like really not flat and the letters were very raised versus the other one let's talk about something real quick before we go over there and see what the results are uh with the ln2 i'm not pushing down on this i'm i'm trying to keep even pressure on it so it doesn't like tilt like that but this is a pretty heavy piece of metal it's copper that's nickel plated copper and it's pretty weighty so i'm letting the weight of it kind of do its thing as i'm keeping my finger in the center as much as i can and i'm only allowing it me to push down hard enough to make sure it doesn't lift up or tilt then i'm just doing circles opposite directions back and forth like this this is my first time doing this i'm sure xoc guys have been doing this forever could chime in on what grit they use whether they use something a little more coarse whether or not they think 2000 grits plenty i think we're gonna find out on my own right now if it's plenty i was really surprised to see how not flat this dye was with that initial pattern of it being an l-shape it just makes me feel a little less crazy because i was like i know i can mount a pot and why does it keep giving me like this off-centered kind of a thing and then when i would finally get it nice and tight in the center why was i getting a ring all around it of it not touching anything also too i'm going to address this now some of you might be wondering like well if this is so beneficial why don't the manufacturers do it that's because this is only to eke out like that last couple of percent of performance that are related to the extreme temperatures and the way that thermal paste reacts in the extreme temperature specifically the extreme thermal paste like the kpx or the kingpin extreme or the pink cryo knot these that are designed to go like down to minus 200 plus temperatures cause a lot of physical changes in terms of the um the gap of air that can happen between the dye and the pot if thermal paste gets too thick right there it can crack and so by doing this and getting it as flat as possible it extremely eliminates by extremely eliminates it extremely reduces the likelihood of cracking something no one will ever experience at any of the temperatures people operate even on water so that's not something the manufacturers need to be concerned about so i've been trying to be healthier and i'm bringing my pre-made lunches to work now but i just remembered we don't have a microwave and i have no way to heat it up all right so nick is over here filling up some thermoses i already did a test boot on this to make sure that it gives me a video signal so that's a win and i've got everything ready to go so i've got my clamp on here which is not putting a lot of pressure on it just enough to make sure we keep nice flush contact in the center of the die in fact i don't want to tighten that down anymore so here's what we're going to do we are going to i guess just let phil maybe do some b-roll of this because i have a superstition that this microphone and its transmitter affects my overclocks so we're going to do the same process we always do bring down the pot temp torch it back to warm bring it down again torch it to warm again bring it down and then whoa not unplug stuff and then do our runs because that hot cold hot cold actually gets the pot ready faster than just letting it sit there and soak so i'm gonna turn off the mic and we're gonna see if i can beat eighteen thousand zero nine one today if i can i can go a little bit higher i might beat that damn ocp or gold damn cop guy or whatever his name is the german dude so i'm actually going to take the card apart and check them out we weren't we were getting about halfway through the run on 26.55 but unfortunately i wasn't careful as i was undoing the screw and i accidentally knocked this guy off right here this belongs there well like that this card is done for now it's a don't lose it although i'm sure vince has more where is it okay i'm not gonna do my repair method that you guys have seen me do before anyone with a true soldering skills like lewis rosman or anyone's got magnifying glass and flux and all the proper crap to do that can get that back on right there so i'm going to be sending this probably back to vince to repair vince will be able to repair that no problem but let's go ahead and check out the mount i do have another kingpin card that i'll probably just go ahead and lap real quick and test and i will let you guys wonder if it worked or not because we need to end this video so if we're going to pull that straight up we're getting a much better mount it has a little bit of that goopiness because when you pick it up the suction right but i can tell you right now it's getting to the edges better but i feel like on the second card that i do this to right now i'm going to probably lap it with something a little bit uh coarser grit if you will so that's we're going to go ahead and end it i know it's a little disappointing to not be like oh my god jay beat his score in this video the lapping part was a success the careless part of knocking off a capacitor utter failure this is the risk you take i guess when you start getting in a hurry and aren't careful thanks for watching guys and we'll see in the next one and if you want to know if i actually end up beating my score just periodically check the uh port royal hall of fame\n"