WE ACTUALLY DID IT! 1500HP FERRARI TWIN TURBO BUILD UPDATE

**Drive Shaft Straps: A Unique Solution**

I recently came across drive shaft straps that I had never seen before, but they seemed like a great idea. They have ARP studs and nuts on them, which is pretty cool. The fact that they can withstand 1100 horsepower in a drift car with just a regular strap was impressive. These drive shaft straps are not only functional but also stylish.

I decided to buy these straps for my car, as I thought they would be a great addition. The good news is that they cannot bend, which made me feel confident about their durability. I applied the straps and waited to see how they would fit. To my surprise, the first side of the strap went on easily, but the second side required some manipulation to get it into place.

After struggling for a bit, I managed to pull the strap back onto itself and secure it with the ARP nuts. The fact that these straps are designed to hold such high horsepower was reassuring. I felt like I had finally found the perfect solution for my car's transmission needs.

**The PDM (Power Distribution Module)**

As I worked on installing the drive shaft straps, I realized that I needed a power distribution module (PDM) to manage all the electrical connections in my car. The PDM is essentially a relay and fuse box that collects data from various components and displays it on the dashboard. It's a complex system, but I was excited to see how it worked.

To get started, I had to mount the PDM over a specific area of the roll cage. Since this would be a critical component, I wanted to make sure it was securely attached. I used two points on the roll cage as anchors and built a plate to mount the PDM directly onto them. This design would provide excellent support and stability for the module.

I also made sure that the mounting area was vibration-resistant, which is essential for components like this. By placing the PDM over the panel, I could take advantage of any heat-soak properties it might have. The fact that these components are designed to withstand high temperatures was reassuring.

**Wiring and Mounting**

Next, I needed to start wiring up my car's electrical system. This was a daunting task, but I was determined to get it done correctly. To begin, I had to create a mount for the PDM on the dash bar. I drew up a design, cut out the plate in plasma, and bolted it into place.

Using this mounting system, I could easily access the wiring and components. The fact that I didn't have to drill holes through the firewall was a relief, as this area is relatively difficult to work with. Instead, I located a pilot hole where the bulkhead connector would be mounted, making it easy to access for future repairs.

I also made sure to install ground cables and power cables in the correct places, using studs in the firewall if necessary. This would provide reliable connections between the components and ensure that everything worked as intended.

**The Next Two Days**

Over the next two days, I would be working on completing the wiring installation. This involved trimming the wires with specialized tools and applying heat shrink tubing to protect the terminals. It was a meticulous process, but one that was necessary for a successful installation.

As I worked through the details of the electrical system, I realized just how complex it was. Every component had its own unique needs and requirements, and getting everything connected correctly would take some time and effort. But with patience and attention to detail, I knew I could get it done right.

**Conclusion**

As I reflected on my experience with drive shaft straps and the PDM, I realized just how much went into creating a high-performance car like this one. From the drive shaft straps that can withstand incredible horsepower to the complex electrical system that powers all the components, every detail matters.

I was excited to see this project come together and couldn't wait to fire up the engine and test it out. With careful planning and attention to detail, I knew we could get it done right. And as always, I would be sharing my progress on our stories channel, so be sure to check that out for more behind-the-scenes content and insights into this project.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enall right guys the time has finally come we have completed the F12 engine and it is ready to go into the car right now for the final time this thing should be running very soon but to get that to happen we need to drop this thing in the car and bolt it all in place we've got my wiring guy who's going to come down and finish up all the wiring on it so we can get all the electronics in place and hopefully everything will go up without a hitch and we get the tuner over here we can fire this thing up so let's get started so we got pretty much everything ready on the chassis for the engine we've got the fuel pressure regulator in place the fuel feed lines the brake lines are fastened down to the chassis we've got the steering shaft in the subframe is in oil tank is in the Breather tank basically everything surrounding the engine is there it's bolted down and it's ready to go so we're going to drop the engine in tighten down the motor mounts put the transmission mount in we can hook up the shift linkage and start putting that crazy exhaust system that we made on this thing and uh man I'm so excited that this car is finally coming together and it's going to be running soon well luckily we don't have to do this too many more times hopefully should be the last time we have to do this so no more in and out with this thing banging it up we have put this engine in the car quite a few times it wasn't complete it was basically just the block and the head sitting on top no crank no Pistons no rods no oil pump all the accessories weren't on it it's actually going in the car now we have the clutch the four plate tilon clutch and flye bolted up the bell housing the stona sequential transmission it's man it it is looking like a complete engine once we get that intake manifold and the exhaust manifold on it it's really going to look good all right Tim let's bring it in I go up a little more ooo just clears that that water Outlet there can go up another half an inch or so one more little bump okay now we need to get the uh Jack underneath the transmission cuz right now it's angled like this so we got to get it leveled out that's going to uh clear this water line it'll be below there and uh then we can actually shift the engine slightly forward cuz we're a bit too far back at the moment to get past your and if we need to we can pull the steering rack out this is the first time that the engine has gone in with the steering rack in its new position so I measured everything before and it looked like it was going to clear so hopefully it does okay go ahead go up a little more how's that yeah keep going going looks pretty level here I think oh yeah they're lighing up yeah all right so yeah there we go engine mounts are just about lined up that was uh really close but uh that's what I figured it would be nice and tight right there so we will have to pull the steering rack out I think because we have to uh do a final torque on that but that's going to be a lot easier to do when it's in the car cuz when I was on the engine stand trying to put hundreds of pounds of torque on that Bolt the thing just kind of wanted to tip over once it's in the chassis solid mounts everything is going to be in place and that's going to be much easier to torque these engine mounts are different left and right and uh we didn't mark them but we got them on backwards so this is actually the passenger side mount and it's just slightly offset by about 3/4 of an inch back so we lined up the transmission mount everything needs to move back which means we're going to have more clearance in the front which is what I thought because I felt like there was more clearance when I was measuring everything and uh luckily yes the engine is going to move back but I just got to swap these mounts from side de side and we should be good to go all right so we got the motor mount swapped from left to right so they're on the correct side now just got the bolts lined up there so I'm just going to spin them in a bit but I'm not going to tighten them yet that way we have just a little bit of wiggle room from left to right and front to back I mean just a half a MM but that's going to give Tim enough room to get the bolt started for the transmission mount yeah it looks so much better now on the front pulley when I was looking at it and measuring it from where the steering rack was originally which was up here so stepped up 30 mm and I think it was 65 mm that I moved it back but when I took those measurements I was like oh yeah I should have like enh handed clearance in there it should be fine and then we were putting in and I'm like did I measure wrong what happened no it's just the motor mous swap so we're all good all right you going finally get these chains off the engine start putting all these other parts onto it is in Tim just going to tighten down the last two bolts for the motor mount and it's in there and it is solid and ready to go all right DD fam I want to interrupt this programming for a quick personal message something I've not really shared with very many people and I'm about to share with you when I was in my early 20s I got into severe debt it was awful $68,000 I didn't know where to turn I didn't have any solutions and I got some really bad advice and that was I had to declare bankruptcy and that's what I did in my early 20s I've been through bankruptcy it's awful I really wish I had today's sponsor and that is PDS debt because they can help you avoid the unthinkable which is going through bankruptcy there's many forms of debt you've got credit card debt personal loans medical bills it can happen to us we can lose our jobs hey I've personally been there as well it's good news there's one solution and that's PDS debt.com DD go there right now do the survey and in most cases they can help you out and you actually pay off your debt debt D got really bad advice we're giving you really good advice go to PDS de.com DD right now tell the questionnaire you have good credit bad credit it doesn't matter there's options for you do it right now don't end up like me you guys but here's the bright side if you do it and you go and you clear everything up there's always a future even if I was in the complete slums and made all the wrong choices look what I got at the end of the day I still my dream cars have a flourishing business and I got my credit back on track and it feels amazing and I got my confidence back so anything's possible I hope to see you guys debt-free PDS debt.com DDE these are uh I believe the crank sensors right Mike uh cam oh Cam yeah I'm dumb cam yeah so there's actually four cam sensors uh one on each cam because they do have variable timing so these will control where the cams sit so we can have the cams actually move while the engine is running to optimize the cam position for every point in the RPM and underload you can actually make it spool up way faster on a turbo car you can build way more power in the mid-range and have a lot of power on the top end is really optimize the entire Power Band with the uh adjustable cam timing so yeah something that I've used in my BMWs where a lot of people eliminate the Vanos is what it's called in the BMW systems we picked up so much horsepower and so much torque in the mid-range by keeping them and uh yeah I don't see why anybody would ditch them all right so the engine is completely bolted in now and uh you know I was thinking about putting the exhaust manifolds on right now but I think I'm going to hold off on that because when the wiring guy comes down the more access he has to everything the better we know where the exhaust run so we've already planned out everything and he's actually built probably more than 75% of the harness so most of it will be completed but what he needs to do is get it in the exact position and then we're going to drill the holes in the firewall for the quick disconnect so it's actually a millspec uh quarter turn plug that's going to have all the wire so we're going to have a branch that comes through the center here that's going to go to all the injectors probably come up and go here I'm not sure actually if he if he has some running along top but we did build heat shields to protect the electronics up here and the coil packs and all that from the exhaust I think what we're going to do now is put the shifter in put the shifter linkage which actually has a sensor in the middle of it and it's called a strain gauge as you pull back on the shifter to shift up it'll sense the pressure inside of there and it's all completely adjustable so when the tuner goes in to set everything up he can look at how much force it takes to do those shifts and he can set a window basically if you pull harder than this it'll cut the throttles it'll cut the ignition whatever he wants to do to basically cut a bunch of power to get that shift done so you don't ever have to lift off of the throttle to do up shifts it's all flat shift basically like a DCT transmission except this is just a regular single clutch transmission so super fast shifts and then same thing on the downshift you get off the throttle you jump on the brakes you don't touch the clutch you push the lever forward and it senses how much force is on the shifter and it blips for you so it'll actually move the throttles blip the the RPM match it perfectly so you get those super clean precise downshifts that you get with a sequential transmission so uh that's what we're going to do now so I want to show you guys this before I bolt it in the car cuz it's a lot easier to see when it's out of the car so here is our samsonas shift lever right here we have stops with springs in them so these are spring-loaded and we can adjust these where this stops that's all adjustable and those need to be set because if you have too much travel in your shifter you're actually putting a lot of strain on the inside of the transmission there is shaft that runs through it it clicks and goes through and it moves the forks that shift between the gears so you don't want to put any additional Forks you just want them to move the amount they need to to select the next gear so we'll have to set those stops once we get it in the car and I'll show you guys that process later when it is all bolted in here's the strain gauge so this little sensor right here will read the force through these three wires it is a 5vt it is a zvt which is basically a sensor ground but it's not just a ground it's red through the ECU so it's 100% consistent so you've got those going in and then you have one wire that's sending the signal out so it's 5 volts in Zer volts and then as you do your shifts it'll read 3 volts 3 and 1/2 volts 4 volts whatever it might read it's reading all the way through that sweep kind of like a potentiometer under load as a a strain gauge so I've already made this linkage I'm going to put a couple Jam nuts on here so that once we get in the car we can adjust it properly get that sitting exactly where it needs to be no load on the uh shift mechanism on the transmission the lever has no load on it at all tighten them down and then we'll set the stops drops in right there and then we will bolt it in from the bottom and one thing I didn't talk about was this little guy right here once we get it all put together we'll actually run a cable that's basically the same as a bicycle brake cable that'll run through and you will have to pull this lever back to get it out of first gear to go into neutral and then same thing to get it into reverse you'll have to pull this lever and click it into reverse so it's a reverse lockout and a neutral lock out so when you're on track and you're banging down gears and you're going into a really slow corner you can't accidentally pop it into neutral and just sit there and free rev so it'll stop you from doing that and then same thing if you're sitting in the car and it's in neutral you can't accidentally just bump it forward and uh put it in reverse so little safety lever all right so I got just a little bit of Loctite on these bolts just so they don't rattle loose and and uh we have a loose shifter which is not ever good in there lined up and then once I get all four in uh then I'll tighten these down and then I can install the linkage which basically just goes from here to this uh he joint on top of the transmission so I got to throw a lock nut on there and then I can get that linkage in place Mike what's this red on there uh that is actually just a factory like a tamper evident seal oh so if you pull the transmission apart you know stick it apart or whatever put it back together and it didn't work you can't call them up and say hey you guys sent me a transmission that doesn't work obviously doesn't matter for us we'll pull it apart and we'll do all the rebuilds ourself here this is the same transmission I had in quite a few of my drift cars I know it really well they're actually very very strong but everything breaks so there is nothing that is completely 100% bulletproof everything needs maintenance especially on a car like this so we will be servicing it and pulling it apart and checking the wear replacing Parts as needed so it looks like this lamp for the fuel line this this one got installed correctly but that one got installed facing up so the lines are actually touching the side of the transmission right now so we're going to move that clamp and drop it back down so the lines are not hitting the side but they're actually below the transmission and then the transmission is on solid mounts the engine is on solid mounts so we don't have to worry about like jumping around and actually hitting anything but we do need to have that little bit of air gap so it just doesn't have that rubbing all right guys the time has come so Greg is here from GP Motorsports and he brought basically his entire mobile wiring Department with him so he can custom build this wire harness to fit the F12 exactly it's kind of like if you get a custom suit made you'll go in you'll get measurements and then the tailor will fit everything to your measurements but they won't finish it once they are almost done you'll come in you'll put the suit on and they'll finish every little cuff and last thing and get it to be perfect and that's basically the stage that we're out right right now so we'll come over here and I'll kind of show you guys what he's already finished and what we have left to finish on the car all right so over here we have some of the harness that is about 95% completed so he has everything run through the raikim shrink tubing and before all this started every single wire was pinned out and figured out where it needs to go from this connector to that connector and then from another connector through there that goes to the other side where it ends up on the car or where it ends up on the ECU so so he literally has to map out every destination point and every breake in between to make sure that that one wire makes its way through and does so correctly the right size wire for the distance it needs to travel you can't just say like I'm going to run like this thin wire in the car for everything it might work for sensors it might work for some very low amperage stuff but some things are going to need a bigger wire to get the job done properly like you can't run a 20 gauge wire from the front of the car to the back of the car for the fuel pumps going to draw too many amps you're going to melt some Greg is basically like the wiring mad scientist he done this many times on some really really highend cars he did it on my f30 drift car and some other like very high-end competitive drift cars and Salt Flat cars and all kinds of stuff drag racing yeah some some serious big dollar builds that that cannot have any room for error I mean there's about 30 grand worth of electronics in this car and then the harness has to connect all of those things so no matter how good your electronics are your ECU your sensors whatever if the wiring itself is not good that's you know those are the nerves connecting everything so all of this stuff is laid out over here we've got connections here for a PDM which is a power distribution module and then we have the motch m150 ECU so all four of those connectors will go to the ECU those have already been completely finished up the ECU and PDM will sit on the bottom side of the dash basically by the passenger's foot well up high uh so we'll make that panel and I don't want to make that panel yet because Greg took some measurements for the wiring that way we can lay it in the car and see exactly where it wants to sit and if the panel needs to move over 5 mm 10 mm whatever I can do that and it can be perfect so all of this is nearly done we've got this is a clutch pressure so he's got these labels here that tell you exactly what it is and it might look a little weird that there's wires sticking out of here but that is just a trick that uh Greg's learned from doing it over here so when he's ready and he finishes this wire when he puts the terminals on the end and the connector then he can actually pull these wires out and slide this right next to it and heat shrink it in place so you have the connector with its label properly right next to it rather than it being a foot or so Downstream and when you have everything zip tied up in the car and everything's nice and tidy it's nice to see what it goes to right next to the connector not 10 ft away all the detail they've gone through to get it to this point is uh a lot there's a lot of hours in it a ton of hours right before you even pull a wire it takes a lot of time of every pin has to go somewhere through this and yeah it's a lot of calculation if you spend the time on the back end to figure everything out before you start well you're going to have a better harness in the end and you're not going to have any errors so every pin there's literally like what are these 36 pin or something 34 and 26 yeah so every single one of those with all those wires going to it and where they lead to going into these like mspec uh quarter turn connectors hundreds of wires hundreds of wires and lots of destinations where they all go to and some of them might Branch out and go into wise there's a lot going on and actually you have a another part of the harness isn't finished yet so we can show you that this is the engine Loom so basically this is the connector that's going to go into the firewall and on this side it's going to go to the engine and the reason that he's left everything open they're all wired up so every one of the sensors wires are already grouped together there are the bundles that are ready to go but instead of finishing almost all of it on the bench and bringing it over here and having connectors that are either too long or Too Short basically not perfect he'll do everything here on the car so the majority of it is already hard work is done yep so now it's all right this is where this going trim it to length put some heat shrink tubing over it label it connector it and then uh shrink the whole thing when it's actually done this is a lot of work I've built some very small harnesses before I built one chassis harness before and I didn't ever want to do it again it's not what I specialize in yeah so it's very time consuming yeah but that's all you do that is what you do and that's why he's so good at it um and that's why we have him working on this car because like everything else in the build we want Perfection all the way across and uh this is just another component to the car that uh is as good as you can possibly get we're going to let Greg get started um cuz obviously there's still a lot to do so he's got a few days of work to finish this all up once that's done we can plug some Electronics in run some hoses that are already completed put the intercooler in put the seats in put the new motch Dash in which we're going to get very soon it's pretty impressive so I know you guys are going to want to see that Tim is actually out right now picking up the carbon fiber drive shaft so we'll be able to see that today this thing will hopefully be running in the next 2 weeks like fired up and I'm fired up to hear it so I can't wait to hear this thing it's going to scream all right so while Greg's working on that I'm just going to start assembling some of the other parts so that when all the wiring is done we can just get everything laid in there also the intercooler does have two fans that are going to be mounted to the front of it so at some point those are going to need to be installed in the car so we can get the wiring done for that this bracket is already done we just got it back from the powder coater so it will bolt on to the intercooler here I'll get that on there and then the oil cooler also bolts in between these brackets and the intercooler I'll get that bolted up just do as much prep as I can the car will basically assemble itself in the end it's going to come together really fast all right so I'm getting every single thing that I can get assembled that includes these little tabs here go onto the injectors keep the injectors located in place you guys remember in a stories video when I was putting this together I did not realize that uh mad Sweden actually goes through the extra steps to machine all these extra holes and make these tabs to keep those injectors into the fuel rail and honestly I've seen a lot of aftermarket fuel rails a lot of aftermarket manifolds and I have never SE seen this before so like I was saying with the Mad suite and stuff it is just beyond my expectations the guys uh do an absolutely amazing job over there now that I'm realizing all of these parts are here I'm going to bolt all of them on Ando dude that thing is bad this is the 100% custom carbon fiber drive shaft for the F12 made by our buddies at drive shaft Pro they built the drive shafts for my cars and they held up really well of course we're going to use them they're local too so they got this thing all built and dialed in it's a pretty large diameter and that is because the larger the diameter of the tube the stronger it is so you can actually run a thinner wall tubing with a larger diameter and have a lot more strength to it so yeah this thing is awesome we've got the uh hardened input shaft on the front you can tell because of that coating some good U-joints build aluminum back section here now we'll pop this thing in the car and see how it looks can't wait to uh put this thing in there all right so I got the runners all done um the injectors are in now with those little uh safety Clips currently the upper part of the manifold the plenum is just slapped together so we can do all the Fab work so I'm going to take it apart now we clean everything make sure it's spotless and then we're going to put the hardware in with the O-rings so all of this is ready to go on the engine and once it is on the engine it's good to go so I'll probably make a panel that bolts on I can either make a panel that bolts on from those two lower ones on the roll cage there that comes down so it has like a little bit of an air gap yeah you can get the water temp sensor somewhere it but this long then we should be good oh yeah right we' got the two lines going here to the rails the two lines going around to the front of the Rails so that's all pretty busy the valley is busy whenever you're ready to do that we'll pop those on in 2 minutes I'll make that back panel for the PDM right now that'll probably take me 20 20 minutes and now that the car is up in the air we are going to put the drive shaft in the only thing that's missing linking the engine and the transmission to the differential we still have some spacer adapters that are actually being machined right now that should be done tomorrow and then they can ship them to us but those are going to adapt the OEM Ferrari axles to this quick change differential so yeah those will be here and we'll be able to put those in fairly soon too but for now let's get this drive shaft in there let's see if this one fits I got some some extra strong oh those are drive shaft straps that I haven't seen before but yeah they're crali with ARP studs and nuts on them that's sick so I mean it held 1100 horsepower in my drift car with with just a regular strap but yeah these things are just really cool so I figured I'd buy these for this car they can't bend either yeah so yeah let's see if they fit though good that was on that side no problem now the other side now we have to somehow pull this back yeah I'll grab the Mallet and tap it Forward once we get these in place all right that's looking good all right so here is the PDM this is actually out of my car cuz the ones we bought for this car aren't here yet they should be here tomorrow or the day after but to get this going we're going to use these for mockup so it's pretty crazy that inside of here this little tiny thing all of the power goes through here and acts like a relay and fuse box and collects all the data so you can see how much power these certain items are drawing so if you have fans that pull 60 amps well it's going to show you how it pulls those amps and if you get way out of range you can set up warnings on the dash to basically tell you like fan failure fuel pump failure whatever you want to do it's pretty amazing that this replaces the entire fuse block that would normally be in a car um but I've got to mount this over here so before he can finalize all the wiring we are going to make a mount for this right around here so I'm going to use these two points off of the roll cage and just build a plate to mount that right there instead of mounting this directly to the chassis back here somewhere where these things are very vibration resistant but being on that panel uh it'll set it off a little bit to give it some heat soak properties which like I said these things are tough and I haven't seen them overheat but anything we can do to make it better we will do so I'm going to draw this part up right now and uh cut it out in the plasma and make it bolted in and then he can finish all the wiring and have it be spot on I'm going to put some nutts in here pop those in that panel and then instead of having to worry about putting a bolt through and getting to a nut on the back side we'll have these basically the nuts in there so we can just put the Fasteners in from the front just to keep it simple all right there we go so we've got the rear PDM mounted over here so uh Greg can continue wiring all of the stuff in the rear basically what I'm going to work on next is making a similar Mount that's going to go on the dash bar where we can mount the ECU and PDM they're going to sit up here around there I'll pull that PDM off at some point and uh draw this up and be able to make a bracket for that that'll hold everything in place and then we can finalize all the rest of the wiring up front we will drill a hole in the firewall somewhere in this area they've already actually got a little pilot hole marked out here so we're going to have the uh bulkhead connector in that spot that's far away from the exhaust it's really easy to access so if we do have to pull the engine out for whatever reason or pull the wiring harness off it's going to be easy to get to Yeah so basically over the next probably 2 days this is what we're going to be doing making little brackets bolting down stuff installing ground cables and power cables through the whole thing putting some uh studs in the firewall uh for the power and ground cables to pass through or power most likely grounds if we also need them and that's it so I think the next time you guys see this car the wiring will be pretty much completed we'll have the ecus in place and we should have the motch display Dash also mount it up possibly even have the seats in this thing it's going to be really close to starting up obviously all the stuff that's going on in the background right now and for the next 2 days will be on the stories channel so make sure you guys check that out if you want to see more detail of all the detail because there are a lot of little things that are going to happen all of the trimming of the wires using the correct tools to Crim terminals on uh heat shrink tubing just all the little stuff so that'll all be on stories obviously and uh thank you guys again for watching this thing will be running very soon if we don't have any issues and right now it's looking like things are going along really smooth so uh stay tuned guys I cannot wait to fire this thing upall right guys the time has finally come we have completed the F12 engine and it is ready to go into the car right now for the final time this thing should be running very soon but to get that to happen we need to drop this thing in the car and bolt it all in place we've got my wiring guy who's going to come down and finish up all the wiring on it so we can get all the electronics in place and hopefully everything will go up without a hitch and we get the tuner over here we can fire this thing up so let's get started so we got pretty much everything ready on the chassis for the engine we've got the fuel pressure regulator in place the fuel feed lines the brake lines are fastened down to the chassis we've got the steering shaft in the subframe is in oil tank is in the Breather tank basically everything surrounding the engine is there it's bolted down and it's ready to go so we're going to drop the engine in tighten down the motor mounts put the transmission mount in we can hook up the shift linkage and start putting that crazy exhaust system that we made on this thing and uh man I'm so excited that this car is finally coming together and it's going to be running soon well luckily we don't have to do this too many more times hopefully should be the last time we have to do this so no more in and out with this thing banging it up we have put this engine in the car quite a few times it wasn't complete it was basically just the block and the head sitting on top no crank no Pistons no rods no oil pump all the accessories weren't on it it's actually going in the car now we have the clutch the four plate tilon clutch and flye bolted up the bell housing the stona sequential transmission it's man it it is looking like a complete engine once we get that intake manifold and the exhaust manifold on it it's really going to look good all right Tim let's bring it in I go up a little more ooo just clears that that water Outlet there can go up another half an inch or so one more little bump okay now we need to get the uh Jack underneath the transmission cuz right now it's angled like this so we got to get it leveled out that's going to uh clear this water line it'll be below there and uh then we can actually shift the engine slightly forward cuz we're a bit too far back at the moment to get past your and if we need to we can pull the steering rack out this is the first time that the engine has gone in with the steering rack in its new position so I measured everything before and it looked like it was going to clear so hopefully it does okay go ahead go up a little more how's that yeah keep going going looks pretty level here I think oh yeah they're lighing up yeah all right so yeah there we go engine mounts are just about lined up that was uh really close but uh that's what I figured it would be nice and tight right there so we will have to pull the steering rack out I think because we have to uh do a final torque on that but that's going to be a lot easier to do when it's in the car cuz when I was on the engine stand trying to put hundreds of pounds of torque on that Bolt the thing just kind of wanted to tip over once it's in the chassis solid mounts everything is going to be in place and that's going to be much easier to torque these engine mounts are different left and right and uh we didn't mark them but we got them on backwards so this is actually the passenger side mount and it's just slightly offset by about 3/4 of an inch back so we lined up the transmission mount everything needs to move back which means we're going to have more clearance in the front which is what I thought because I felt like there was more clearance when I was measuring everything and uh luckily yes the engine is going to move back but I just got to swap these mounts from side de side and we should be good to go all right so we got the motor mount swapped from left to right so they're on the correct side now just got the bolts lined up there so I'm just going to spin them in a bit but I'm not going to tighten them yet that way we have just a little bit of wiggle room from left to right and front to back I mean just a half a MM but that's going to give Tim enough room to get the bolt started for the transmission mount yeah it looks so much better now on the front pulley when I was looking at it and measuring it from where the steering rack was originally which was up here so stepped up 30 mm and I think it was 65 mm that I moved it back but when I took those measurements I was like oh yeah I should have like enh handed clearance in there it should be fine and then we were putting in and I'm like did I measure wrong what happened no it's just the motor mous swap so we're all good all right you going finally get these chains off the engine start putting all these other parts onto it is in Tim just going to tighten down the last two bolts for the motor mount and it's in there and it is solid and ready to go all right DD fam I want to interrupt this programming for a quick personal message something I've not really shared with very many people and I'm about to share with you when I was in my early 20s I got into severe debt it was awful $68,000 I didn't know where to turn I didn't have any solutions and I got some really bad advice and that was I had to declare bankruptcy and that's what I did in my early 20s I've been through bankruptcy it's awful I really wish I had today's sponsor and that is PDS debt because they can help you avoid the unthinkable which is going through bankruptcy there's many forms of debt you've got credit card debt personal loans medical bills it can happen to us we can lose our jobs hey I've personally been there as well it's good news there's one solution and that's PDS debt.com DD go there right now do the survey and in most cases they can help you out and you actually pay off your debt debt D got really bad advice we're giving you really good advice go to PDS de.com DD right now tell the questionnaire you have good credit bad credit it doesn't matter there's options for you do it right now don't end up like me you guys but here's the bright side if you do it and you go and you clear everything up there's always a future even if I was in the complete slums and made all the wrong choices look what I got at the end of the day I still my dream cars have a flourishing business and I got my credit back on track and it feels amazing and I got my confidence back so anything's possible I hope to see you guys debt-free PDS debt.com DDE these are uh I believe the crank sensors right Mike uh cam oh Cam yeah I'm dumb cam yeah so there's actually four cam sensors uh one on each cam because they do have variable timing so these will control where the cams sit so we can have the cams actually move while the engine is running to optimize the cam position for every point in the RPM and underload you can actually make it spool up way faster on a turbo car you can build way more power in the mid-range and have a lot of power on the top end is really optimize the entire Power Band with the uh adjustable cam timing so yeah something that I've used in my BMWs where a lot of people eliminate the Vanos is what it's called in the BMW systems we picked up so much horsepower and so much torque in the mid-range by keeping them and uh yeah I don't see why anybody would ditch them all right so the engine is completely bolted in now and uh you know I was thinking about putting the exhaust manifolds on right now but I think I'm going to hold off on that because when the wiring guy comes down the more access he has to everything the better we know where the exhaust run so we've already planned out everything and he's actually built probably more than 75% of the harness so most of it will be completed but what he needs to do is get it in the exact position and then we're going to drill the holes in the firewall for the quick disconnect so it's actually a millspec uh quarter turn plug that's going to have all the wire so we're going to have a branch that comes through the center here that's going to go to all the injectors probably come up and go here I'm not sure actually if he if he has some running along top but we did build heat shields to protect the electronics up here and the coil packs and all that from the exhaust I think what we're going to do now is put the shifter in put the shifter linkage which actually has a sensor in the middle of it and it's called a strain gauge as you pull back on the shifter to shift up it'll sense the pressure inside of there and it's all completely adjustable so when the tuner goes in to set everything up he can look at how much force it takes to do those shifts and he can set a window basically if you pull harder than this it'll cut the throttles it'll cut the ignition whatever he wants to do to basically cut a bunch of power to get that shift done so you don't ever have to lift off of the throttle to do up shifts it's all flat shift basically like a DCT transmission except this is just a regular single clutch transmission so super fast shifts and then same thing on the downshift you get off the throttle you jump on the brakes you don't touch the clutch you push the lever forward and it senses how much force is on the shifter and it blips for you so it'll actually move the throttles blip the the RPM match it perfectly so you get those super clean precise downshifts that you get with a sequential transmission so uh that's what we're going to do now so I want to show you guys this before I bolt it in the car cuz it's a lot easier to see when it's out of the car so here is our samsonas shift lever right here we have stops with springs in them so these are spring-loaded and we can adjust these where this stops that's all adjustable and those need to be set because if you have too much travel in your shifter you're actually putting a lot of strain on the inside of the transmission there is shaft that runs through it it clicks and goes through and it moves the forks that shift between the gears so you don't want to put any additional Forks you just want them to move the amount they need to to select the next gear so we'll have to set those stops once we get it in the car and I'll show you guys that process later when it is all bolted in here's the strain gauge so this little sensor right here will read the force through these three wires it is a 5vt it is a zvt which is basically a sensor ground but it's not just a ground it's red through the ECU so it's 100% consistent so you've got those going in and then you have one wire that's sending the signal out so it's 5 volts in Zer volts and then as you do your shifts it'll read 3 volts 3 and 1/2 volts 4 volts whatever it might read it's reading all the way through that sweep kind of like a potentiometer under load as a a strain gauge so I've already made this linkage I'm going to put a couple Jam nuts on here so that once we get in the car we can adjust it properly get that sitting exactly where it needs to be no load on the uh shift mechanism on the transmission the lever has no load on it at all tighten them down and then we'll set the stops drops in right there and then we will bolt it in from the bottom and one thing I didn't talk about was this little guy right here once we get it all put together we'll actually run a cable that's basically the same as a bicycle brake cable that'll run through and you will have to pull this lever back to get it out of first gear to go into neutral and then same thing to get it into reverse you'll have to pull this lever and click it into reverse so it's a reverse lockout and a neutral lock out so when you're on track and you're banging down gears and you're going into a really slow corner you can't accidentally pop it into neutral and just sit there and free rev so it'll stop you from doing that and then same thing if you're sitting in the car and it's in neutral you can't accidentally just bump it forward and uh put it in reverse so little safety lever all right so I got just a little bit of Loctite on these bolts just so they don't rattle loose and and uh we have a loose shifter which is not ever good in there lined up and then once I get all four in uh then I'll tighten these down and then I can install the linkage which basically just goes from here to this uh he joint on top of the transmission so I got to throw a lock nut on there and then I can get that linkage in place Mike what's this red on there uh that is actually just a factory like a tamper evident seal oh so if you pull the transmission apart you know stick it apart or whatever put it back together and it didn't work you can't call them up and say hey you guys sent me a transmission that doesn't work obviously doesn't matter for us we'll pull it apart and we'll do all the rebuilds ourself here this is the same transmission I had in quite a few of my drift cars I know it really well they're actually very very strong but everything breaks so there is nothing that is completely 100% bulletproof everything needs maintenance especially on a car like this so we will be servicing it and pulling it apart and checking the wear replacing Parts as needed so it looks like this lamp for the fuel line this this one got installed correctly but that one got installed facing up so the lines are actually touching the side of the transmission right now so we're going to move that clamp and drop it back down so the lines are not hitting the side but they're actually below the transmission and then the transmission is on solid mounts the engine is on solid mounts so we don't have to worry about like jumping around and actually hitting anything but we do need to have that little bit of air gap so it just doesn't have that rubbing all right guys the time has come so Greg is here from GP Motorsports and he brought basically his entire mobile wiring Department with him so he can custom build this wire harness to fit the F12 exactly it's kind of like if you get a custom suit made you'll go in you'll get measurements and then the tailor will fit everything to your measurements but they won't finish it once they are almost done you'll come in you'll put the suit on and they'll finish every little cuff and last thing and get it to be perfect and that's basically the stage that we're out right right now so we'll come over here and I'll kind of show you guys what he's already finished and what we have left to finish on the car all right so over here we have some of the harness that is about 95% completed so he has everything run through the raikim shrink tubing and before all this started every single wire was pinned out and figured out where it needs to go from this connector to that connector and then from another connector through there that goes to the other side where it ends up on the car or where it ends up on the ECU so so he literally has to map out every destination point and every breake in between to make sure that that one wire makes its way through and does so correctly the right size wire for the distance it needs to travel you can't just say like I'm going to run like this thin wire in the car for everything it might work for sensors it might work for some very low amperage stuff but some things are going to need a bigger wire to get the job done properly like you can't run a 20 gauge wire from the front of the car to the back of the car for the fuel pumps going to draw too many amps you're going to melt some Greg is basically like the wiring mad scientist he done this many times on some really really highend cars he did it on my f30 drift car and some other like very high-end competitive drift cars and Salt Flat cars and all kinds of stuff drag racing yeah some some serious big dollar builds that that cannot have any room for error I mean there's about 30 grand worth of electronics in this car and then the harness has to connect all of those things so no matter how good your electronics are your ECU your sensors whatever if the wiring itself is not good that's you know those are the nerves connecting everything so all of this stuff is laid out over here we've got connections here for a PDM which is a power distribution module and then we have the motch m150 ECU so all four of those connectors will go to the ECU those have already been completely finished up the ECU and PDM will sit on the bottom side of the dash basically by the passenger's foot well up high uh so we'll make that panel and I don't want to make that panel yet because Greg took some measurements for the wiring that way we can lay it in the car and see exactly where it wants to sit and if the panel needs to move over 5 mm 10 mm whatever I can do that and it can be perfect so all of this is nearly done we've got this is a clutch pressure so he's got these labels here that tell you exactly what it is and it might look a little weird that there's wires sticking out of here but that is just a trick that uh Greg's learned from doing it over here so when he's ready and he finishes this wire when he puts the terminals on the end and the connector then he can actually pull these wires out and slide this right next to it and heat shrink it in place so you have the connector with its label properly right next to it rather than it being a foot or so Downstream and when you have everything zip tied up in the car and everything's nice and tidy it's nice to see what it goes to right next to the connector not 10 ft away all the detail they've gone through to get it to this point is uh a lot there's a lot of hours in it a ton of hours right before you even pull a wire it takes a lot of time of every pin has to go somewhere through this and yeah it's a lot of calculation if you spend the time on the back end to figure everything out before you start well you're going to have a better harness in the end and you're not going to have any errors so every pin there's literally like what are these 36 pin or something 34 and 26 yeah so every single one of those with all those wires going to it and where they lead to going into these like mspec uh quarter turn connectors hundreds of wires hundreds of wires and lots of destinations where they all go to and some of them might Branch out and go into wise there's a lot going on and actually you have a another part of the harness isn't finished yet so we can show you that this is the engine Loom so basically this is the connector that's going to go into the firewall and on this side it's going to go to the engine and the reason that he's left everything open they're all wired up so every one of the sensors wires are already grouped together there are the bundles that are ready to go but instead of finishing almost all of it on the bench and bringing it over here and having connectors that are either too long or Too Short basically not perfect he'll do everything here on the car so the majority of it is already hard work is done yep so now it's all right this is where this going trim it to length put some heat shrink tubing over it label it connector it and then uh shrink the whole thing when it's actually done this is a lot of work I've built some very small harnesses before I built one chassis harness before and I didn't ever want to do it again it's not what I specialize in yeah so it's very time consuming yeah but that's all you do that is what you do and that's why he's so good at it um and that's why we have him working on this car because like everything else in the build we want Perfection all the way across and uh this is just another component to the car that uh is as good as you can possibly get we're going to let Greg get started um cuz obviously there's still a lot to do so he's got a few days of work to finish this all up once that's done we can plug some Electronics in run some hoses that are already completed put the intercooler in put the seats in put the new motch Dash in which we're going to get very soon it's pretty impressive so I know you guys are going to want to see that Tim is actually out right now picking up the carbon fiber drive shaft so we'll be able to see that today this thing will hopefully be running in the next 2 weeks like fired up and I'm fired up to hear it so I can't wait to hear this thing it's going to scream all right so while Greg's working on that I'm just going to start assembling some of the other parts so that when all the wiring is done we can just get everything laid in there also the intercooler does have two fans that are going to be mounted to the front of it so at some point those are going to need to be installed in the car so we can get the wiring done for that this bracket is already done we just got it back from the powder coater so it will bolt on to the intercooler here I'll get that on there and then the oil cooler also bolts in between these brackets and the intercooler I'll get that bolted up just do as much prep as I can the car will basically assemble itself in the end it's going to come together really fast all right so I'm getting every single thing that I can get assembled that includes these little tabs here go onto the injectors keep the injectors located in place you guys remember in a stories video when I was putting this together I did not realize that uh mad Sweden actually goes through the extra steps to machine all these extra holes and make these tabs to keep those injectors into the fuel rail and honestly I've seen a lot of aftermarket fuel rails a lot of aftermarket manifolds and I have never SE seen this before so like I was saying with the Mad suite and stuff it is just beyond my expectations the guys uh do an absolutely amazing job over there now that I'm realizing all of these parts are here I'm going to bolt all of them on Ando dude that thing is bad this is the 100% custom carbon fiber drive shaft for the F12 made by our buddies at drive shaft Pro they built the drive shafts for my cars and they held up really well of course we're going to use them they're local too so they got this thing all built and dialed in it's a pretty large diameter and that is because the larger the diameter of the tube the stronger it is so you can actually run a thinner wall tubing with a larger diameter and have a lot more strength to it so yeah this thing is awesome we've got the uh hardened input shaft on the front you can tell because of that coating some good U-joints build aluminum back section here now we'll pop this thing in the car and see how it looks can't wait to uh put this thing in there all right so I got the runners all done um the injectors are in now with those little uh safety Clips currently the upper part of the manifold the plenum is just slapped together so we can do all the Fab work so I'm going to take it apart now we clean everything make sure it's spotless and then we're going to put the hardware in with the O-rings so all of this is ready to go on the engine and once it is on the engine it's good to go so I'll probably make a panel that bolts on I can either make a panel that bolts on from those two lower ones on the roll cage there that comes down so it has like a little bit of an air gap yeah you can get the water temp sensor somewhere it but this long then we should be good oh yeah right we' got the two lines going here to the rails the two lines going around to the front of the Rails so that's all pretty busy the valley is busy whenever you're ready to do that we'll pop those on in 2 minutes I'll make that back panel for the PDM right now that'll probably take me 20 20 minutes and now that the car is up in the air we are going to put the drive shaft in the only thing that's missing linking the engine and the transmission to the differential we still have some spacer adapters that are actually being machined right now that should be done tomorrow and then they can ship them to us but those are going to adapt the OEM Ferrari axles to this quick change differential so yeah those will be here and we'll be able to put those in fairly soon too but for now let's get this drive shaft in there let's see if this one fits I got some some extra strong oh those are drive shaft straps that I haven't seen before but yeah they're crali with ARP studs and nuts on them that's sick so I mean it held 1100 horsepower in my drift car with with just a regular strap but yeah these things are just really cool so I figured I'd buy these for this car they can't bend either yeah so yeah let's see if they fit though good that was on that side no problem now the other side now we have to somehow pull this back yeah I'll grab the Mallet and tap it Forward once we get these in place all right that's looking good all right so here is the PDM this is actually out of my car cuz the ones we bought for this car aren't here yet they should be here tomorrow or the day after but to get this going we're going to use these for mockup so it's pretty crazy that inside of here this little tiny thing all of the power goes through here and acts like a relay and fuse box and collects all the data so you can see how much power these certain items are drawing so if you have fans that pull 60 amps well it's going to show you how it pulls those amps and if you get way out of range you can set up warnings on the dash to basically tell you like fan failure fuel pump failure whatever you want to do it's pretty amazing that this replaces the entire fuse block that would normally be in a car um but I've got to mount this over here so before he can finalize all the wiring we are going to make a mount for this right around here so I'm going to use these two points off of the roll cage and just build a plate to mount that right there instead of mounting this directly to the chassis back here somewhere where these things are very vibration resistant but being on that panel uh it'll set it off a little bit to give it some heat soak properties which like I said these things are tough and I haven't seen them overheat but anything we can do to make it better we will do so I'm going to draw this part up right now and uh cut it out in the plasma and make it bolted in and then he can finish all the wiring and have it be spot on I'm going to put some nutts in here pop those in that panel and then instead of having to worry about putting a bolt through and getting to a nut on the back side we'll have these basically the nuts in there so we can just put the Fasteners in from the front just to keep it simple all right there we go so we've got the rear PDM mounted over here so uh Greg can continue wiring all of the stuff in the rear basically what I'm going to work on next is making a similar Mount that's going to go on the dash bar where we can mount the ECU and PDM they're going to sit up here around there I'll pull that PDM off at some point and uh draw this up and be able to make a bracket for that that'll hold everything in place and then we can finalize all the rest of the wiring up front we will drill a hole in the firewall somewhere in this area they've already actually got a little pilot hole marked out here so we're going to have the uh bulkhead connector in that spot that's far away from the exhaust it's really easy to access so if we do have to pull the engine out for whatever reason or pull the wiring harness off it's going to be easy to get to Yeah so basically over the next probably 2 days this is what we're going to be doing making little brackets bolting down stuff installing ground cables and power cables through the whole thing putting some uh studs in the firewall uh for the power and ground cables to pass through or power most likely grounds if we also need them and that's it so I think the next time you guys see this car the wiring will be pretty much completed we'll have the ecus in place and we should have the motch display Dash also mount it up possibly even have the seats in this thing it's going to be really close to starting up obviously all the stuff that's going on in the background right now and for the next 2 days will be on the stories channel so make sure you guys check that out if you want to see more detail of all the detail because there are a lot of little things that are going to happen all of the trimming of the wires using the correct tools to Crim terminals on uh heat shrink tubing just all the little stuff so that'll all be on stories obviously and uh thank you guys again for watching this thing will be running very soon if we don't have any issues and right now it's looking like things are going along really smooth so uh stay tuned guys I cannot wait to fire this thing up\n"