Revealing our Best Builds Yet + Designing an Angle Kit!
**Modifying Steering Rack for Increased Angle: A Step-by-Step Guide**
In this detailed guide, we will explore the process of modifying your car's steering rack to achieve increased angle, enhancing your vehicle's performance and handling. This modification is particularly useful for drift cars or those requiring precise control during high-speed maneuvers.
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**Understanding the Need for Steering Rack Modification**
The steering rack is a critical component in a car's steering system. It converts the rotational motion of the steering wheel into linear motion that directs the wheels. However, stock racks often have limitations in terms of angle and may not meet the demands of aggressive driving or drifting. By modifying the steering rack, you can achieve more degrees of movement, allowing for sharper turns and better control.
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**Steps to Modify Your Steering Rack**
1. **Removing the Stock Tie Rods**
- Begin by removing the stock tie rods from your car. These components are responsible for connecting the steering rack to the wheels and play a crucial role in transferring motion.
- Use wrenches or socket sets to disconnect the tie rod ends from both the steering rack and the suspension components.
2. **Inspecting the Steering Rack**
- Once the tie rods are removed, inspect the steering rack for any signs of wear or damage. Look for bent or worn-out parts that might hinder performance.
- Clean the area around the steering rack to ensure a smooth installation process.
3. **Installing the Modified Tie Rods**
- Replace the stock tie rods with modified ones designed for increased angle. These can be custom-made or sourced from specialized automotive shops.
- Carefully align the new tie rod ends with the steering rack and suspension components before tightening them.
4. **Adjusting the Ackermann Angle**
- The Ackermann angle is essential for optimizing turning performance. Adjust this angle to ensure that both front wheels turn at different rates, improving stability during turns.
- Use a specialized tool or adjust manually by rotating the tie rod ends until the desired alignment is achieved.
5. **Testing and Fine-Tuning**
- After installation, test drive your car to assess the new handling characteristics. Pay attention to any steering issues or vibrations that may arise.
- Make necessary adjustments to the Ackermann angle or other components as needed.
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**Addressing Interior Damage Post-Modification**
Modifying your car's steering rack can sometimes lead to unintended consequences, such as damage to the interior. Here’s how to mitigate these issues:
1. **Preventative Measures**
- Use protective covers or shields to prevent debris from entering the cabin during modifications.
- Secure loose items in the vehicle to avoid damage from vibrations or movements.
2. **Repairing Scratches or Dents**
- If your interior is scratched or dented, consider using touch-up paint or sandpaper to smooth out minor imperfections.
- For more severe damage, consult a professional auto body specialist for expert repair services.
3. **Upgrading Interior Protection**
- Install high-quality seat covers or floor mats to protect the interior from future wear and tear.
- Use custom-fit panels or armor plating to shield sensitive areas from potential damage during aggressive driving.
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**Developing Your Custom Knuckle Design**
A knuckle is a crucial part of your car's suspension system, connecting the steering rack to the wheel hub. To maximize performance, consider developing a custom knuckle design:
1. **Design and Planning**
- Use 3D modeling software or consult with a CNC machine shop to create a knuckle tailored to your vehicle’s needs.
- Ensure the design accommodates the increased angle of your modified steering rack.
2. **Material Selection**
- Choose high-strength materials like billet aluminum or steel for durability and performance.
- Consider the weight implications of heavier materials, balancing strength with aerodynamics.
3. **Testing and Validation**
- Prototype your custom knuckle and test it under various driving conditions to evaluate its performance.
- Make adjustments as necessary to improve handling and stability.
4. **Installation and Fine-Tuning**
- Replace the stock knuckle with your custom design, ensuring a proper fit and alignment.
- Adjust suspension settings to optimize the new setup for optimal performance.
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**Conclusion**
Modifying your car's steering rack, addressing interior damage, and developing a custom knuckle design are advanced techniques that can significantly enhance your vehicle's handling and performance. By following these detailed steps and considerations, you can achieve a well-tuned car that meets the demands of both street driving and competitive drifting.
Remember to always prioritize safety and professional guidance when undertaking such modifications. Happy modifying!
"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwelcome guys to today's video we are actually taking a deep dive on searing angle and we're doing it with this bone stock E90 Supra if you guys aren't familiar with it I am doing a build on the channel where this is going to be an automatic transmission controlled by the HTG GCU where we'll be able to install a clutch pedal be able to shift it like a manual clutch kick it like a manual handbrake with it like a manual in hopes of making this a more driftable platform without all the crazy costs associated with attempting to manual swap it or buying a manual Supra but with that I want to develop a cheap inexpensive angle solution so we're going to start I have the car on turn plates and we're going to see how much angle a stock super has now when I do this mind you because my trim plates only go to 30 degrees obviously if it goes to five here you add 30 to it and then that means we have 35 degrees of angle typically with cars you'll hear me refer to Ackerman Ackerman has to do with the difference between leaning and trailing wheel most cars will have the leading wheel have more angle than the trailing wheel which I assume is what we're about to see it's not past zero then this one's about 37. so we started out with 37 degrees on the leading wheel and 27 degrees on the trailing wheel that's pretty normal and that's going to equate to really good happy steering feel now when you get into competitive drifting those numbers will get closer together and you'll have a bit more parallel steer personally I like having a bit more Ackerman and having that split between the leading and the trailing wheel because it makes the car feel very self-steery happy but it's not as fast because you're always scrubbing one wheel cars do this I explained in a previous video because your trailing wheel when you're trying to grip around a corner has a wider diameter to go around the corner than the inside wheel that is following a tighter radius if you saw the previous video I explained I cheated the lack of angle on the car by Towing the front end out a bit now that makes the difference between the leading and the trailing wheel even worse but I did a turn plate test on that and I can tell you it gave me five extra degrees but the drivability garbage so we're going to jump into angle solution number one I'm gonna interrupt you guys look you knew it was coming I told you that we were dropping a new giveaway along with all the limited edition 10-year anniversary merch but this giveaway is not only the best giveaway we've ever done it's the first giveaway where every five dollars you spend on not only lzmfg but drift HQ as well will get you entered for a chance to win one of these three cars now the reason that all three are here is because the giveaway car is a combination of two now on the left we have my Royal sapphire pearl mark IV Supra it's a szr factory six speed and a car then we have my white beautiful chaser with a 750 horsepower 2JZ fully redone engine bay literally one of my favorite cars to drive because of the Power Band It's So Snappy it's a perfect amount of power for a street car and knowing that we're going to be doing our 10 year anniversary collection I wanted this giveaway to be off the charts so I took my two favorite cars my favorite looking my favorite driving and I'm combining them for what you see as the next official lzmfg and drift HQ giveaway car so this car is an szr as well so this is Factory six speed but this thing has some turbo parts on it it's got turbo super brake it's Royal sapphire pearl and this one already has the bay entirely resprayed and has a GTE motor in it but if you look it's nice but it's not up to lz-spec so we got to put a nice Billet plenum on it we're going to be copy and pasting what I've learned from the cam and turbo setup on that motor to this engine and you can expect a very clean very fun very reliable mid 700 horsepower Supra on ethanol on pump gas this setup probably will net you like mid 5 600 plenty of power to have fun not too much to be a pain to drive but the best thing is this car is absolutely beautiful and it could be yours I've been teasing this stuff all over social media but I want to give you a super quick look we have one limited edition bundle and that's gonna come with three of our most iconic designs that have been remastered one is the 240t two is the high hops low carbs tee and three is the send it tee which turned into sent it because well we've been sending it for a while now in that bundle you'll also get this very special plaque I've been signing them for a while looks beautiful and three very special stickers all part of the bundle the bundle is going to go very quickly so that you want to make sure you set a reminder Wednesday at 3 pm Eastern Standard Time and we've also got restocks on the E36 gear the shirt the hoodie a new E36 themed hat and then we've also got some of the other designs on pieces that you can get if you missed the collection we have a high hops hoodie we have the s13t printed on black and s13 Hoodie four rotor super restocks and a brand new limited edition E36 deck these will probably go real fast as well so if you want to get your hands on the bundle or the deck make sure to set a reminder I don't want to bore you we also got two beautiful new hats so you might have seen me wearing in content I think it's some of the best stuff we've ever made I wanted to go big for this giveaway and that's why we're doing a mark 4 Supra with one of my favorite engine packages on the planet every five dollars you spend on lzmfg or drift HQ is going to get you enter for a chance to win and I'm stoked to build it but and one thing that I forgot to mention another kind of reason or inspiration behind doing the Mark 4 Supra is I wanted to be able to build two cars at the same time so while we're building this giveaway car we'll also be building my personal mark IV Supra the cars are going to share a lot of the same Parts but as you guys know my car is going to be well over a thousand horsepower too much to be reliable and too much to give away to someone that may not have experience with a high power car but it's gonna be a lot of fun building the cars together because I feel like the content will be less confusing than bouncing back and forth like we did with the r33 while we were building the four rotor we'll just be focusing on super stuff for a bit which I'm really excited for I just got word as well that the winner of the r33 giveaway is going to be drawn tomorrow so keep an eye on your phones keep an eye on your email because it could be you as always it takes a couple days to announce because we need to make sure the winner is confirmed but I want to let you know before we get back into the contest thank you originally I had told you guys my plan was to modify the knuckle on the super to get more angle and I'll explain what that means so on this knuckle we have the center point right here which is where the lower control arm would be and this is our main pivot point and then your tie rod hooks up to here and when you turn your steering wheel the tie rod pulls the wheel or pushes it in either direction to allow the car to turn now my initial thought was to shorten the knuckle on a nest chat see what you do is you would cut the knuckle you would re-rolled it closer on a nice new car people don't want to cut and weld stuff so it's going to make a bolt-on adapter this for purpose of illustration this is an SLR adapter that you would use on like an E36 this is what we run on our competition car I was going to make something like this that would essentially sandwich between the lower control arm and the tie rod pickup and that would move the tie rod pickup inward when it's closer to the point of pivot the same amount of force on the steering wheel would wind up turning the knuckle more but I was fortunate enough to have a rack out of another A90 Supra that when I started to dive into there there is an alternate plan that may allow us to get more angle out of the Supra without having to modify the knuckle at all now this is a bit foreign for me because this is an electric power steering rack there is no fluid it's all mechanical with a big fancy electric motor and as you can see this doesn't look like a normal rack either it's like a screw now you're usually limited with steering angle by your rack when the tie rod bottoms out and hits the inside but out of curiosity I wanted to pull it off because we have these things in drifting that are called tie rod spacers and what you do is you basically slip them over the threads so you don't want to go too much because you want to leave enough thread to make sure that you still have proper engagement without damaging your rack and it allows the tie rod to go in more because if you remember we're bottomed out right now and if you look inside it's right where the threads become flush with the inside of the rack but watch me turn this this is my steering wheel this vice grip we have a whole entire another 90 degrees of turn on the steering wheel before the rack is mechanically limited so when we put the spacer on where before we were limited because it's flush it allows us to get another small turn in but it's not enough there's still way more room on the table I'll turn until this is bottomed out and you'll see there's still quite a bit of room left still just barely under the surface when I can crank this thing a whole lot more that's going to translate to many degrees of steering angle but the problem is we only have so much thread now companies actually offer solution for this this is a GK Tech rack spacer I believe for an S chassis and this would thread on here and then would now give you a smaller piece that can go inside of the rack and allow you to have more steering travel the problem is we have every single car under the Sun at drift HQ but no one makes them for the thread pitch for the A90 Supra so if my testing works this could be a product that we could make we could offer and could potentially get you a lot more angle the biggest variable that I don't know is how mad are the electronics going to get when we turn the steering rack past what it thinks its limit is I don't know if it's going to work I don't know if it's going to freak out put the car in limp mode but that's part of what our goal today is and since I don't have the ability to machine one of these pieces I'm going to experiment with the Lathe for the first time and I'm actually going to turn down this part of the tie rod to get it to be a bit smaller so it can live inside side of the rack seems sketchy but believe it or not there's actually a lot of companies that sell tie rods that are turned down to give you a little bit more rack spacing and it'll be cool for me because it'll be my first time using the lathe now looking at this there's two different lips on the inside it's small and on the inside I'm only going to use this to get past it it leaves a tad bit of angle on the table but what that's going to do is it's going to prevent us from completely bottoming out the rack and it will stop here instead of stopping here now when I make my lathe piece I'm only going to have it so it can fit in this outside edge rather than going even farther outside this Inside Edge that way we still do have some sort of mechanical stop on the rack instead of it going all the way in and then damaging things so to fit inside that first lip all I need is the diameter of a 24 mil socket and if you look that's really not Milling that much off the tie rod very little compared to the flat spot and I'm only going to need to go probably about until here anything past that we'd also be getting the danger zone with where the ball is so again this is experimental the end-all solution would be to create one of these but I have a spare super tie rod and I want to see what the rack's going to do like I said full disclaimer I've never used this lathe before uh we got it because it was the end of the year and we wanted to get a big tax break and we always wanted to leave we got one the other ones use it quite a bit I'm gonna be honest I haven't even watched him use it but I watched a YouTube video today on how to use a lathe and I feel confident enough to do the thing so this is again I don't know lathe terminology but this is the clampy John I'm going to clamp the tire rod end and the clampy John and hopefully it will be centered enough to do the thing and then I'm going to test spin it I'm gonna test spin on low speed Mike will watch all your fragils okay just something to make sure so it looks like I could clamp it a little bit straighter that's what I'm trying to figure out right now because if it's not clamp straight it's going to not give us the accurate cut so because this is around a little awkward this is going to be a little bit tricky that's worse all right so it looks like it's in the machine pretty Center so I'm gonna stop that bit I'm gonna start to eat off some material I just gotta remember I want to go too crazy right off rip because I only need is a sockets worth and we're just gonna have a lot of weird little edges so is it not supposed to squeal no it will squeal a little bit but that's the best wheel so if it squeals that bad that means you have too much to go a little bit like that first yep right there okay yep right there okay that was six longer than I thought yeah I thought I was just gonna be like yeah that looks pretty legit I feel like there's been so many times where we've been in a bind because we needed a special spacer like technically we could make our own like engine mounts with this if we just have like a solid brick of aluminum which is pretty cool to think we got the mill now we got a lathe so it can be pretty self-sufficient biggest thing I gotta remember is not to touch that because it's probably like 7 000 degrees right now but I'm really excited to see because like this should be it I think we just made our own angle tie rod when I said this is 7000 degrees interesting the heat entrance all the way to the other end wow that's beautiful and it doesn't look like it's interfered with strength but part of the D as we learned earlier is the D or no the most important part about r d is the D and when it comes to D I'm your guy I didn't do much R but I'm definitely going to do a lot of D nope didn't say that I'm definitely gonna my focus is the D nope the my mission is to no conquer the D no I'm gonna do testing all right that's what I'm trying to say now you might be thinking wow Adam's such an idiot he machined off the flat spots that you need to tighten the tire out in the first place two things one they actually didn't really work that Wellness because they're so tiny you had to use a pipe wrench anyway which would just work on this but we do have the mill where we could put this in a fixture and Mill down like four flat spots when it does come to tightening it but that's next phase all right so this is what our our two-stage situation looks like this is where the rack used to stop I'm going to turn fancy new tie rod now let's see how much extra Turnage we got boom not too bad that's like a whole 90. yeah I'm pretty happy with that yeah that's sick no I'm gonna take this out and see how much more there is left to go like I said I didn't want to completely Max the rack out because that could damage the rack internally I still wanted to stop just before the racks mechanical limitations and let's see how much more we got left in it ah a decent amount but that comes down to this spacer guy here if we had a little bit more there that would solve that but I don't feel comfortable with doing too much more now before I make the swap just to show you our limiting factor right now in the rear isn't really much we can get plenty of angle but on the front we're going to run into the knuckle hitting this arm but I think we'll be able to get quite a bit angle before that even happens it might even be able to clearance out a little bit but first up I'm going to pull this tire out pop the new one in and see how much angle that gives us start now before I go and ruin both my tires on the car I'm going to use this one that I machined as a test dummy and if it works and the car doesn't get too mad then I can go and do it to both sides and see how it likes it 3727 is what we had before let's see what we got now foreign yeah I didn't do much R so now the D is going to take a lot longer I noticed that before you'd get like basically one turn to lock with the new tie rod adapter you get like another 90 degrees which matches what we saw on the rack however check this out I'm gonna bring it back to Center start the car now it stops it sooner pewter is actually watch I'll turn it off and there's all that that I just added I can't get the computer isn't mechanically telling it to stop turning and somehow that's a strong enough lock not to allow us to turn anymore maybe there's just a fancy little fuse we can pull something that's what I was gonna look I was going to look on the other rack and see if there's like a steering angle sensor which there probably is yeah which is probably gonna throw a bunch of ABS codes but maybe I can just pull a wire and get my angle so one of these big plugs I assume is the motor I would assume the bigger one is the motor yeah and then maybe the smaller one is the steering angle sensor I'll try and plugging and see what it does the computer is limiting the extra angle you turn the car off and it will give you the angle you turn the car back on and it takes it away you watched a clip huh no I saw him make it okay we hammer it boom boom these holes all right all jokes all jokes aside there's a little suction cup inside of the tank inside this basket that attaches to these holes these holes must have come off with pressure just like it did on the top side the first time so on the top side we saw that we added a clamp so it didn't do any more it did it on the bottom side now which it's crucial because this is where it sucks fuel from the tank into the basket without that we don't have fuel pressure at least for the the one pump the stock pump the other pump is fine so Sean and I tested that theory we put in the tank the tank back in the tank power the pump we got fuel now out of the main line so now we'll have fuel pressure then Mike could go ahead jump back on the computer and fine tune the engine uh we don't think we're gonna make any more power uh due to the size of the intake or the intake length but it's the process we're going to play with intake designs or run a length to be able to see how much power we get out of the car but for now the car makes a good amount of torque we did get the drive hour motor from EFI Hardware so in the next once we have we're happy with the power I think we're gonna go ahead and make the driver system work like it was intended to but for now we're putting everything back in we'll get the car back up and running you know in the dyno for Mike to do his magic and then once we are happy with how everything is functioning I think he's planning to come down and do a little more fine tuning down here well I decided to abandon the rackspacer idea it was a good idea but alas I'm not a computer wizard but mechanically I know I can make this car more angle short and Knuckles it is thank you foreign way of doing this if I was a real r d guy I would have a 3D scanner and I would scan this and then I could 3D print a piece that would fit perfectly I could get my measurements from that 3D piece and then I could put it into production and send it to someone at a CNC I don't have a 3D printer yet so what I'm basically doing is making a bunch of pieces of metal to make it fit and then once I have that I can then hand it over to Jing and Ginge can drop me up a 3D scan and then I could manufacture a part so right now my start is figuring out the spacing of everything this is my little shim that I milled just because these aren't flat so this will sit like this we'll shim will slip in here and then I'll have holes that will connect this and then I can figure out where the tie rod is going to be located now this again if I had time I could order the proper tie rod ends I was able to steal one from an FDF kit that has the right thread on one side but the adapter is a little bit small on one side so weird how the feeling of a car returning from a long trip feels like you're getting a special present the rig just showed up with the four cars from Vegas my Evo Colette Evo my GTR and the piece of junk s13 that's never been in Florida oh I guess never been in Florida under my ownership so I'm stoked to have them all here and I'm really stuck to start doing some stuff with the GTR I'm still gonna make a video of it for you guys but that'll be coming soon foreign well a very happy time turned into a nightmare scenario when I noticed that all the wheels were put inside the Interiors of both the Evo and the GTR as most of you guys know that have 90s cars if you have clean interior it's virtually Irreplaceable especially like the GTR is like unbelievably clean thank God the only damage was like a pressed in Mark in the rear like uh kind of like shoulder area if you're sending the receipt which looks like I might be able to get out with heat I don't know how homie managers get six wheels in both cars and not mess anything up well thank thank God or it would have been a very expensive mistake that was not fun taking a lot of photos and like I'm not like you know I have no problem putting stuff in cars those are the two cards you don't put in like look at this I don't even have a trunk and I still fit stuff back here that's a diff in this box for my Eva but that's a rear diff I need a fun dip because it's broke broke what we have right here is V1 of the LZ knuckle now I know it just looks like three holes but I promise there's some logic to it so we're looking down at my left front wheel this is the center point where the lower control arm is this is the original tie rod pickup point so as you can see with the same amount of travel from the rack if the tie rod goes to here if we move that tie rod down here we'll get a little bit of extra angle but you'll notice I offset this hole I did it on purpose because if you remember we had a very big split between the leading wheel and the trailing wheel and by offsetting it farther towards the outside of the car on a front rack car when we are the leading wheel opposed to if the tired was centered it's going to give us a little bit less angle but if we are the trailing wheel opposed to if it's centered it's going to give us a little bit more angle I know it seems really confusing but typically on like an adjustable knuckle you would have like a oval here and then you could adjust the Ackerman to your liking to try to dial in your Ackerman or your split between your leading and trailing wheel this is a guesstimate at first it could be wildly off also it's a guesstimate on my placement of the hole and I wasn't able to MacGyver together a proper tie rod so what we're going to be doing now is a little bit too much bumps to your correction because this will go in like this I've got my fancy spacer this we're going like this rub a nut but because I wasn't able to get a different outer tie rod we're going to have the tie rod sitting significantly lower now this wouldn't be a terrible thing because when you lower a car what happens is it Ricks your tie rods up like this so they still bumps to your correction kits to bring them back down level that way when you go over bumps it isn't pulling your steering wheel in certain ways this is a bit extreme but given the time constraints that I have and the fact that I just like to order the right tie rod for the job this should be enough for us to get some testing in to understand what the car does lock to lock because the vertical placement of the tie rod won't play that much of a role other than when we're going over bumps all right we're about to have test fit for the very first prestigious lc.com you know what they say about me it's not pretty but it gets the job done of course I have a stupid bent thing that's gonna make my life miserable doing this but one issue that I didn't totally think about was clearance of the sway bar with my super ghetto tie rod situation so that might prove to be a small difficulty for this version foreign so one small mistake that I already realized I made and again this would be very easy to do if I was seeing seeing like a piece out of Billet aluminum is this nut isn't flat with this I use this triangular piece that at least fixed somewhat of like the mounting point for the plate but the nut is still crooked because of what's up top so that would be something I would need to account for which would be easy if I was smarter and had all the fancy tools that fancy people have alas we're gonna have animals good news and bad news the good news if you look at the wheel we successfully gained a metric ton of angle the bad news is I was hoping to at least get some measurements I wasn't going to drive on it because I don't really trust my aluminum plate when it was on the ground because of the gnarly angle from the tie rod because I use the stock tie rod end plus the jacking like you can see how off-camber the wheels right now that's why on drift cars we usually run quite a bit of camber it put so much load on the tie rod that when it went down on the ground it literally buckled you can see it slightly bent there and I hammered it up to try to get it flat so unless I slide the upper Cambrian Bunch I'll probably need to get stronger inner tie rods because there's just a lot of force to get it past the uh the stock steering Point definitely not something I was expecting yeah there's the tie rods also grinding the inside of the wheel like I said r d yeah the biggest the most important part of the r and the D is the D and if you don't do the r you're going to spend a lot more time on the D unfortunately my little tie rod adapter didn't work out but now that means I have time to order the correct Parts I can put a little bit more R before the D so hopefully my D will be easier or hopefully my D phase will be easier I'm really going to stop this analogy because it just never really works anyway I hope you guys enjoyed the video I wish that it worked but the next video we do have some great updates already regarding the automatic transmission control Adam from HCG is already in town getting to work we're gonna dive into that in the next video see you guys soon part of the D as we learned earlier is the D no the most important part about r d is the D and when it comes to D I'm your guy I didn't do much R but I'm definitely going to do a lot of D nope didn't say thatwelcome guys to today's video we are actually taking a deep dive on searing angle and we're doing it with this bone stock E90 Supra if you guys aren't familiar with it I am doing a build on the channel where this is going to be an automatic transmission controlled by the HTG GCU where we'll be able to install a clutch pedal be able to shift it like a manual clutch kick it like a manual handbrake with it like a manual in hopes of making this a more driftable platform without all the crazy costs associated with attempting to manual swap it or buying a manual Supra but with that I want to develop a cheap inexpensive angle solution so we're going to start I have the car on turn plates and we're going to see how much angle a stock super has now when I do this mind you because my trim plates only go to 30 degrees obviously if it goes to five here you add 30 to it and then that means we have 35 degrees of angle typically with cars you'll hear me refer to Ackerman Ackerman has to do with the difference between leaning and trailing wheel most cars will have the leading wheel have more angle than the trailing wheel which I assume is what we're about to see it's not past zero then this one's about 37. so we started out with 37 degrees on the leading wheel and 27 degrees on the trailing wheel that's pretty normal and that's going to equate to really good happy steering feel now when you get into competitive drifting those numbers will get closer together and you'll have a bit more parallel steer personally I like having a bit more Ackerman and having that split between the leading and the trailing wheel because it makes the car feel very self-steery happy but it's not as fast because you're always scrubbing one wheel cars do this I explained in a previous video because your trailing wheel when you're trying to grip around a corner has a wider diameter to go around the corner than the inside wheel that is following a tighter radius if you saw the previous video I explained I cheated the lack of angle on the car by Towing the front end out a bit now that makes the difference between the leading and the trailing wheel even worse but I did a turn plate test on that and I can tell you it gave me five extra degrees but the drivability garbage so we're going to jump into angle solution number one I'm gonna interrupt you guys look you knew it was coming I told you that we were dropping a new giveaway along with all the limited edition 10-year anniversary merch but this giveaway is not only the best giveaway we've ever done it's the first giveaway where every five dollars you spend on not only lzmfg but drift HQ as well will get you entered for a chance to win one of these three cars now the reason that all three are here is because the giveaway car is a combination of two now on the left we have my Royal sapphire pearl mark IV Supra it's a szr factory six speed and a car then we have my white beautiful chaser with a 750 horsepower 2JZ fully redone engine bay literally one of my favorite cars to drive because of the Power Band It's So Snappy it's a perfect amount of power for a street car and knowing that we're going to be doing our 10 year anniversary collection I wanted this giveaway to be off the charts so I took my two favorite cars my favorite looking my favorite driving and I'm combining them for what you see as the next official lzmfg and drift HQ giveaway car so this car is an szr as well so this is Factory six speed but this thing has some turbo parts on it it's got turbo super brake it's Royal sapphire pearl and this one already has the bay entirely resprayed and has a GTE motor in it but if you look it's nice but it's not up to lz-spec so we got to put a nice Billet plenum on it we're going to be copy and pasting what I've learned from the cam and turbo setup on that motor to this engine and you can expect a very clean very fun very reliable mid 700 horsepower Supra on ethanol on pump gas this setup probably will net you like mid 5 600 plenty of power to have fun not too much to be a pain to drive but the best thing is this car is absolutely beautiful and it could be yours I've been teasing this stuff all over social media but I want to give you a super quick look we have one limited edition bundle and that's gonna come with three of our most iconic designs that have been remastered one is the 240t two is the high hops low carbs tee and three is the send it tee which turned into sent it because well we've been sending it for a while now in that bundle you'll also get this very special plaque I've been signing them for a while looks beautiful and three very special stickers all part of the bundle the bundle is going to go very quickly so that you want to make sure you set a reminder Wednesday at 3 pm Eastern Standard Time and we've also got restocks on the E36 gear the shirt the hoodie a new E36 themed hat and then we've also got some of the other designs on pieces that you can get if you missed the collection we have a high hops hoodie we have the s13t printed on black and s13 Hoodie four rotor super restocks and a brand new limited edition E36 deck these will probably go real fast as well so if you want to get your hands on the bundle or the deck make sure to set a reminder I don't want to bore you we also got two beautiful new hats so you might have seen me wearing in content I think it's some of the best stuff we've ever made I wanted to go big for this giveaway and that's why we're doing a mark 4 Supra with one of my favorite engine packages on the planet every five dollars you spend on lzmfg or drift HQ is going to get you enter for a chance to win and I'm stoked to build it but and one thing that I forgot to mention another kind of reason or inspiration behind doing the Mark 4 Supra is I wanted to be able to build two cars at the same time so while we're building this giveaway car we'll also be building my personal mark IV Supra the cars are going to share a lot of the same Parts but as you guys know my car is going to be well over a thousand horsepower too much to be reliable and too much to give away to someone that may not have experience with a high power car but it's gonna be a lot of fun building the cars together because I feel like the content will be less confusing than bouncing back and forth like we did with the r33 while we were building the four rotor we'll just be focusing on super stuff for a bit which I'm really excited for I just got word as well that the winner of the r33 giveaway is going to be drawn tomorrow so keep an eye on your phones keep an eye on your email because it could be you as always it takes a couple days to announce because we need to make sure the winner is confirmed but I want to let you know before we get back into the contest thank you originally I had told you guys my plan was to modify the knuckle on the super to get more angle and I'll explain what that means so on this knuckle we have the center point right here which is where the lower control arm would be and this is our main pivot point and then your tie rod hooks up to here and when you turn your steering wheel the tie rod pulls the wheel or pushes it in either direction to allow the car to turn now my initial thought was to shorten the knuckle on a nest chat see what you do is you would cut the knuckle you would re-rolled it closer on a nice new car people don't want to cut and weld stuff so it's going to make a bolt-on adapter this for purpose of illustration this is an SLR adapter that you would use on like an E36 this is what we run on our competition car I was going to make something like this that would essentially sandwich between the lower control arm and the tie rod pickup and that would move the tie rod pickup inward when it's closer to the point of pivot the same amount of force on the steering wheel would wind up turning the knuckle more but I was fortunate enough to have a rack out of another A90 Supra that when I started to dive into there there is an alternate plan that may allow us to get more angle out of the Supra without having to modify the knuckle at all now this is a bit foreign for me because this is an electric power steering rack there is no fluid it's all mechanical with a big fancy electric motor and as you can see this doesn't look like a normal rack either it's like a screw now you're usually limited with steering angle by your rack when the tie rod bottoms out and hits the inside but out of curiosity I wanted to pull it off because we have these things in drifting that are called tie rod spacers and what you do is you basically slip them over the threads so you don't want to go too much because you want to leave enough thread to make sure that you still have proper engagement without damaging your rack and it allows the tie rod to go in more because if you remember we're bottomed out right now and if you look inside it's right where the threads become flush with the inside of the rack but watch me turn this this is my steering wheel this vice grip we have a whole entire another 90 degrees of turn on the steering wheel before the rack is mechanically limited so when we put the spacer on where before we were limited because it's flush it allows us to get another small turn in but it's not enough there's still way more room on the table I'll turn until this is bottomed out and you'll see there's still quite a bit of room left still just barely under the surface when I can crank this thing a whole lot more that's going to translate to many degrees of steering angle but the problem is we only have so much thread now companies actually offer solution for this this is a GK Tech rack spacer I believe for an S chassis and this would thread on here and then would now give you a smaller piece that can go inside of the rack and allow you to have more steering travel the problem is we have every single car under the Sun at drift HQ but no one makes them for the thread pitch for the A90 Supra so if my testing works this could be a product that we could make we could offer and could potentially get you a lot more angle the biggest variable that I don't know is how mad are the electronics going to get when we turn the steering rack past what it thinks its limit is I don't know if it's going to work I don't know if it's going to freak out put the car in limp mode but that's part of what our goal today is and since I don't have the ability to machine one of these pieces I'm going to experiment with the Lathe for the first time and I'm actually going to turn down this part of the tie rod to get it to be a bit smaller so it can live inside side of the rack seems sketchy but believe it or not there's actually a lot of companies that sell tie rods that are turned down to give you a little bit more rack spacing and it'll be cool for me because it'll be my first time using the lathe now looking at this there's two different lips on the inside it's small and on the inside I'm only going to use this to get past it it leaves a tad bit of angle on the table but what that's going to do is it's going to prevent us from completely bottoming out the rack and it will stop here instead of stopping here now when I make my lathe piece I'm only going to have it so it can fit in this outside edge rather than going even farther outside this Inside Edge that way we still do have some sort of mechanical stop on the rack instead of it going all the way in and then damaging things so to fit inside that first lip all I need is the diameter of a 24 mil socket and if you look that's really not Milling that much off the tie rod very little compared to the flat spot and I'm only going to need to go probably about until here anything past that we'd also be getting the danger zone with where the ball is so again this is experimental the end-all solution would be to create one of these but I have a spare super tie rod and I want to see what the rack's going to do like I said full disclaimer I've never used this lathe before uh we got it because it was the end of the year and we wanted to get a big tax break and we always wanted to leave we got one the other ones use it quite a bit I'm gonna be honest I haven't even watched him use it but I watched a YouTube video today on how to use a lathe and I feel confident enough to do the thing so this is again I don't know lathe terminology but this is the clampy John I'm going to clamp the tire rod end and the clampy John and hopefully it will be centered enough to do the thing and then I'm going to test spin it I'm gonna test spin on low speed Mike will watch all your fragils okay just something to make sure so it looks like I could clamp it a little bit straighter that's what I'm trying to figure out right now because if it's not clamp straight it's going to not give us the accurate cut so because this is around a little awkward this is going to be a little bit tricky that's worse all right so it looks like it's in the machine pretty Center so I'm gonna stop that bit I'm gonna start to eat off some material I just gotta remember I want to go too crazy right off rip because I only need is a sockets worth and we're just gonna have a lot of weird little edges so is it not supposed to squeal no it will squeal a little bit but that's the best wheel so if it squeals that bad that means you have too much to go a little bit like that first yep right there okay yep right there okay that was six longer than I thought yeah I thought I was just gonna be like yeah that looks pretty legit I feel like there's been so many times where we've been in a bind because we needed a special spacer like technically we could make our own like engine mounts with this if we just have like a solid brick of aluminum which is pretty cool to think we got the mill now we got a lathe so it can be pretty self-sufficient biggest thing I gotta remember is not to touch that because it's probably like 7 000 degrees right now but I'm really excited to see because like this should be it I think we just made our own angle tie rod when I said this is 7000 degrees interesting the heat entrance all the way to the other end wow that's beautiful and it doesn't look like it's interfered with strength but part of the D as we learned earlier is the D or no the most important part about r d is the D and when it comes to D I'm your guy I didn't do much R but I'm definitely going to do a lot of D nope didn't say that I'm definitely gonna my focus is the D nope the my mission is to no conquer the D no I'm gonna do testing all right that's what I'm trying to say now you might be thinking wow Adam's such an idiot he machined off the flat spots that you need to tighten the tire out in the first place two things one they actually didn't really work that Wellness because they're so tiny you had to use a pipe wrench anyway which would just work on this but we do have the mill where we could put this in a fixture and Mill down like four flat spots when it does come to tightening it but that's next phase all right so this is what our our two-stage situation looks like this is where the rack used to stop I'm going to turn fancy new tie rod now let's see how much extra Turnage we got boom not too bad that's like a whole 90. yeah I'm pretty happy with that yeah that's sick no I'm gonna take this out and see how much more there is left to go like I said I didn't want to completely Max the rack out because that could damage the rack internally I still wanted to stop just before the racks mechanical limitations and let's see how much more we got left in it ah a decent amount but that comes down to this spacer guy here if we had a little bit more there that would solve that but I don't feel comfortable with doing too much more now before I make the swap just to show you our limiting factor right now in the rear isn't really much we can get plenty of angle but on the front we're going to run into the knuckle hitting this arm but I think we'll be able to get quite a bit angle before that even happens it might even be able to clearance out a little bit but first up I'm going to pull this tire out pop the new one in and see how much angle that gives us start now before I go and ruin both my tires on the car I'm going to use this one that I machined as a test dummy and if it works and the car doesn't get too mad then I can go and do it to both sides and see how it likes it 3727 is what we had before let's see what we got now foreign yeah I didn't do much R so now the D is going to take a lot longer I noticed that before you'd get like basically one turn to lock with the new tie rod adapter you get like another 90 degrees which matches what we saw on the rack however check this out I'm gonna bring it back to Center start the car now it stops it sooner pewter is actually watch I'll turn it off and there's all that that I just added I can't get the computer isn't mechanically telling it to stop turning and somehow that's a strong enough lock not to allow us to turn anymore maybe there's just a fancy little fuse we can pull something that's what I was gonna look I was going to look on the other rack and see if there's like a steering angle sensor which there probably is yeah which is probably gonna throw a bunch of ABS codes but maybe I can just pull a wire and get my angle so one of these big plugs I assume is the motor I would assume the bigger one is the motor yeah and then maybe the smaller one is the steering angle sensor I'll try and plugging and see what it does the computer is limiting the extra angle you turn the car off and it will give you the angle you turn the car back on and it takes it away you watched a clip huh no I saw him make it okay we hammer it boom boom these holes all right all jokes all jokes aside there's a little suction cup inside of the tank inside this basket that attaches to these holes these holes must have come off with pressure just like it did on the top side the first time so on the top side we saw that we added a clamp so it didn't do any more it did it on the bottom side now which it's crucial because this is where it sucks fuel from the tank into the basket without that we don't have fuel pressure at least for the the one pump the stock pump the other pump is fine so Sean and I tested that theory we put in the tank the tank back in the tank power the pump we got fuel now out of the main line so now we'll have fuel pressure then Mike could go ahead jump back on the computer and fine tune the engine uh we don't think we're gonna make any more power uh due to the size of the intake or the intake length but it's the process we're going to play with intake designs or run a length to be able to see how much power we get out of the car but for now the car makes a good amount of torque we did get the drive hour motor from EFI Hardware so in the next once we have we're happy with the power I think we're gonna go ahead and make the driver system work like it was intended to but for now we're putting everything back in we'll get the car back up and running you know in the dyno for Mike to do his magic and then once we are happy with how everything is functioning I think he's planning to come down and do a little more fine tuning down here well I decided to abandon the rackspacer idea it was a good idea but alas I'm not a computer wizard but mechanically I know I can make this car more angle short and Knuckles it is thank you foreign way of doing this if I was a real r d guy I would have a 3D scanner and I would scan this and then I could 3D print a piece that would fit perfectly I could get my measurements from that 3D piece and then I could put it into production and send it to someone at a CNC I don't have a 3D printer yet so what I'm basically doing is making a bunch of pieces of metal to make it fit and then once I have that I can then hand it over to Jing and Ginge can drop me up a 3D scan and then I could manufacture a part so right now my start is figuring out the spacing of everything this is my little shim that I milled just because these aren't flat so this will sit like this we'll shim will slip in here and then I'll have holes that will connect this and then I can figure out where the tie rod is going to be located now this again if I had time I could order the proper tie rod ends I was able to steal one from an FDF kit that has the right thread on one side but the adapter is a little bit small on one side so weird how the feeling of a car returning from a long trip feels like you're getting a special present the rig just showed up with the four cars from Vegas my Evo Colette Evo my GTR and the piece of junk s13 that's never been in Florida oh I guess never been in Florida under my ownership so I'm stoked to have them all here and I'm really stuck to start doing some stuff with the GTR I'm still gonna make a video of it for you guys but that'll be coming soon foreign well a very happy time turned into a nightmare scenario when I noticed that all the wheels were put inside the Interiors of both the Evo and the GTR as most of you guys know that have 90s cars if you have clean interior it's virtually Irreplaceable especially like the GTR is like unbelievably clean thank God the only damage was like a pressed in Mark in the rear like uh kind of like shoulder area if you're sending the receipt which looks like I might be able to get out with heat I don't know how homie managers get six wheels in both cars and not mess anything up well thank thank God or it would have been a very expensive mistake that was not fun taking a lot of photos and like I'm not like you know I have no problem putting stuff in cars those are the two cards you don't put in like look at this I don't even have a trunk and I still fit stuff back here that's a diff in this box for my Eva but that's a rear diff I need a fun dip because it's broke broke what we have right here is V1 of the LZ knuckle now I know it just looks like three holes but I promise there's some logic to it so we're looking down at my left front wheel this is the center point where the lower control arm is this is the original tie rod pickup point so as you can see with the same amount of travel from the rack if the tie rod goes to here if we move that tie rod down here we'll get a little bit of extra angle but you'll notice I offset this hole I did it on purpose because if you remember we had a very big split between the leading wheel and the trailing wheel and by offsetting it farther towards the outside of the car on a front rack car when we are the leading wheel opposed to if the tired was centered it's going to give us a little bit less angle but if we are the trailing wheel opposed to if it's centered it's going to give us a little bit more angle I know it seems really confusing but typically on like an adjustable knuckle you would have like a oval here and then you could adjust the Ackerman to your liking to try to dial in your Ackerman or your split between your leading and trailing wheel this is a guesstimate at first it could be wildly off also it's a guesstimate on my placement of the hole and I wasn't able to MacGyver together a proper tie rod so what we're going to be doing now is a little bit too much bumps to your correction because this will go in like this I've got my fancy spacer this we're going like this rub a nut but because I wasn't able to get a different outer tie rod we're going to have the tie rod sitting significantly lower now this wouldn't be a terrible thing because when you lower a car what happens is it Ricks your tie rods up like this so they still bumps to your correction kits to bring them back down level that way when you go over bumps it isn't pulling your steering wheel in certain ways this is a bit extreme but given the time constraints that I have and the fact that I just like to order the right tie rod for the job this should be enough for us to get some testing in to understand what the car does lock to lock because the vertical placement of the tie rod won't play that much of a role other than when we're going over bumps all right we're about to have test fit for the very first prestigious lc.com you know what they say about me it's not pretty but it gets the job done of course I have a stupid bent thing that's gonna make my life miserable doing this but one issue that I didn't totally think about was clearance of the sway bar with my super ghetto tie rod situation so that might prove to be a small difficulty for this version foreign so one small mistake that I already realized I made and again this would be very easy to do if I was seeing seeing like a piece out of Billet aluminum is this nut isn't flat with this I use this triangular piece that at least fixed somewhat of like the mounting point for the plate but the nut is still crooked because of what's up top so that would be something I would need to account for which would be easy if I was smarter and had all the fancy tools that fancy people have alas we're gonna have animals good news and bad news the good news if you look at the wheel we successfully gained a metric ton of angle the bad news is I was hoping to at least get some measurements I wasn't going to drive on it because I don't really trust my aluminum plate when it was on the ground because of the gnarly angle from the tie rod because I use the stock tie rod end plus the jacking like you can see how off-camber the wheels right now that's why on drift cars we usually run quite a bit of camber it put so much load on the tie rod that when it went down on the ground it literally buckled you can see it slightly bent there and I hammered it up to try to get it flat so unless I slide the upper Cambrian Bunch I'll probably need to get stronger inner tie rods because there's just a lot of force to get it past the uh the stock steering Point definitely not something I was expecting yeah there's the tie rods also grinding the inside of the wheel like I said r d yeah the biggest the most important part of the r and the D is the D and if you don't do the r you're going to spend a lot more time on the D unfortunately my little tie rod adapter didn't work out but now that means I have time to order the correct Parts I can put a little bit more R before the D so hopefully my D will be easier or hopefully my D phase will be easier I'm really going to stop this analogy because it just never really works anyway I hope you guys enjoyed the video I wish that it worked but the next video we do have some great updates already regarding the automatic transmission control Adam from HCG is already in town getting to work we're gonna dive into that in the next video see you guys soon part of the D as we learned earlier is the D no the most important part about r d is the D and when it comes to D I'm your guy I didn't do much R but I'm definitely going to do a lot of D nope didn't say that\n"