Building a DIY Monitor with Lithium-Ion Batteries and TP 40:56 Single Cell Charger

The project began with two 2,800 milliamp hour lithium ion batteries that were still lying around from a previous project. The creator decided to use these batteries for charging and protection purposes. To achieve this, they chose the TP 40:56 single cell charger, which is capable of handling parallel connections. Two pieces of wire were used to connect the plus and minus terminals of the batteries to the battery pins of the circuit.

The charger was powered by a FIFO charger, and the red charging LED fired up immediately. The batteries displayed around 1 amp in constant current states during charging. By calculating the time required for full charging, the creator found it would take approximately five hours. However, the IC had reached its maximum current capacity and was also quite hot due to the charging process.

Once the charging was complete, the creator added two more wires to the outputs, which included a short-circuit protection feature as well as an under-voltage protection mechanism. These features provided peace of mind for the builder.

To connect the driver board, a small Excel 6009 push converter was soldered in between the boards. The voltage was set to around 12 volts initially and then adjusted to find the most efficient boost converter configuration. A current clamp was used at the output of the battery circuits to measure the current draw. The results showed that less current was drawn when the voltage was lowered.

The completed monitor setup consisted of several components, including a one-meter by one-meter piece of 6 millimeter thick MDF. Measurements were taken to determine the required material for the case, and the visible screen area was marked on the wood board. A couple of spots two centimeters from the edge of the board served as references for drawing the final design.

The back plate and four wall pieces were created using a scroll saw to cut out the MDF pieces. The creator found that MDF was a soft material, making it easy to cut or treat. However, some gaps were left in the finished product due to imperfect cutting techniques.

Drilling four holes in the edges of the LCD area allowed for assembling the frame. A rotary tool with a sanding bit was initially used to create an indentation for the plastic surrounding the screen, but this proved to be time-consuming and messy. Instead, a box cutter was employed to trace the lines and lift the material up using force.

After creating the indentation, rasps were used in the next part of the project to further refine the design. This treatment process will continue in the final installment of the build.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enlet me tell you that shooting videos can be quite annoying sometimes especially when you're working with such a small screen which makes it hard to focus the objects so the question is can we use a bigger screen well of course in this two-part video series I will show you how about this battery powered portable mini monitor it is not only useful to shoot videos but it's also great when it comes to using your Raspberry Pi on the go or extending the screen of your laptop while working on a script for our new video let's get started in the beginning I actually wanted to use this very cheap 7-inch 800 by 480 LCD display but the driver board is not capable of displaying true 1080p properly it just shows me one quarter of the picture from my camera but with low resolution it's kind of works I will surely find another project for it but I still needed a screen for my Canon so I found this kind of expensive 7 inch display with a resolution of 1280 by 800 and to tell you the truth the video quality is amazing especially when I played a piece for game on it the only downside of my particular screen is this rather big scratch but I got a rebound for it which helped to bits other than that there is not much to say about this LCD kids you just plug in the cables give it power in my case 12 volts and then you can use the keypad to switch between the input signals or to adjust the screen settings there's also an infrared remote which comes with the kids but I'm not going to use it once I was sure that everything worked perfectly I started to think about how to get this portable and I started off with 2 2,800 milliamp hour lithium ion batteries which I still had laying around from a pre versus video for the charging and protection of those I went with this TP 40:56 single cell charger I use two pieces of wire to connect the plus and minus toners of the batteries to the battery pins of the circuits and yes we can actually use two cells and parallel with the single cell charger as long as the batteries were always used in the same batch which they were now I just use the FIFO charger to give it power and the red charging LED fires right up the batteries get around 1 amp in this constant current States and with a bit of math we find out that it would take around five hours to charge them up completely that's a bit long but we can't do anything about it since the IC is already at its maximum current and is also pretty hot temperature-wise once the charging was done I added two more wires to the outputs here is also a small demonstration that it has a short-circuit protection as well as an under voltage protection so we don't have to worry about anything then I D solder the DC jack from my driver board and connected clasp to the back pin and - to the front pin and the screen does work in this configuration but it's not stable if the battery voltage drops over time let's fix this by adding the small Excel 6009 push converter in between those two boards at first I set the voltage to around 12 volts and then I connected it to the input of the driver board in order to find the best efficiency of the boost converter I used my current clamp at the output of the battery circuits and slowly lowered the voltage and as you can see we draw a bit less current with 5 volts and with 12 volts so let's go of this voltage this is basically the whole setup inside the monitor case and if I stack them up we can see that we will need a depth of around 2.5 centimeter let's keep that in mind time to build the case I started with this one meter by one meter piece of 6 millimeter thick MDF and just did some basic measurements much material I would need for the case then I use the wood saw to cut off my desired piece and measure the width and height of the visible screen of the LCD the useless plastic around it does not count then I marked a couple of spots two centimeter from the edge of the board and used them as a reference to draw my visible LCD screen onto the wood the final design for the pronged looks like this now I just had to create a solid back plate with the same measurements and four wall pieces boopa height of two point five centimeter and don't worry if you didn't catch all the measurement values there are better pics on Instructables with a detailed parts list and more information now I use my scroll saw to cut out my pieces and let me tell you that MDF is a soft material which makes cutting or treating it very easy it was only a bit dusty at the end but nothing can be perfect once I was done with the saw I could already put my wood pieces together to give you an idea how the finished product might look like and it also showed me that my cutting technique is terrible as always because nothing really fits perfectly without leaving a gap but we can fix this later for now I drilled four holes in the edges of the LCD area and used my saw again to remove this piece now the visible screen should fit inside the frame but I still needed to measure the width of the plastic around it and marked it on to the front plates because we must create an indentation for this plastic with a depth of around four millimeter so that our screen can sit flush inside the frame at first I used a rotary tool with a sanding bit for it but that takes time and is messy it is way easier to just use a box cutter to trace the lines and then lifting the material up with a bit of force once the indentation was created and the screen fits nicely inside the frame we can continue this treatment process with rasps in the next part check back in one week to see the rest of the project and so then don't forget to Like share and subscribe that would be awesome stay creative and I will see you next timelet me tell you that shooting videos can be quite annoying sometimes especially when you're working with such a small screen which makes it hard to focus the objects so the question is can we use a bigger screen well of course in this two-part video series I will show you how about this battery powered portable mini monitor it is not only useful to shoot videos but it's also great when it comes to using your Raspberry Pi on the go or extending the screen of your laptop while working on a script for our new video let's get started in the beginning I actually wanted to use this very cheap 7-inch 800 by 480 LCD display but the driver board is not capable of displaying true 1080p properly it just shows me one quarter of the picture from my camera but with low resolution it's kind of works I will surely find another project for it but I still needed a screen for my Canon so I found this kind of expensive 7 inch display with a resolution of 1280 by 800 and to tell you the truth the video quality is amazing especially when I played a piece for game on it the only downside of my particular screen is this rather big scratch but I got a rebound for it which helped to bits other than that there is not much to say about this LCD kids you just plug in the cables give it power in my case 12 volts and then you can use the keypad to switch between the input signals or to adjust the screen settings there's also an infrared remote which comes with the kids but I'm not going to use it once I was sure that everything worked perfectly I started to think about how to get this portable and I started off with 2 2,800 milliamp hour lithium ion batteries which I still had laying around from a pre versus video for the charging and protection of those I went with this TP 40:56 single cell charger I use two pieces of wire to connect the plus and minus toners of the batteries to the battery pins of the circuits and yes we can actually use two cells and parallel with the single cell charger as long as the batteries were always used in the same batch which they were now I just use the FIFO charger to give it power and the red charging LED fires right up the batteries get around 1 amp in this constant current States and with a bit of math we find out that it would take around five hours to charge them up completely that's a bit long but we can't do anything about it since the IC is already at its maximum current and is also pretty hot temperature-wise once the charging was done I added two more wires to the outputs here is also a small demonstration that it has a short-circuit protection as well as an under voltage protection so we don't have to worry about anything then I D solder the DC jack from my driver board and connected clasp to the back pin and - to the front pin and the screen does work in this configuration but it's not stable if the battery voltage drops over time let's fix this by adding the small Excel 6009 push converter in between those two boards at first I set the voltage to around 12 volts and then I connected it to the input of the driver board in order to find the best efficiency of the boost converter I used my current clamp at the output of the battery circuits and slowly lowered the voltage and as you can see we draw a bit less current with 5 volts and with 12 volts so let's go of this voltage this is basically the whole setup inside the monitor case and if I stack them up we can see that we will need a depth of around 2.5 centimeter let's keep that in mind time to build the case I started with this one meter by one meter piece of 6 millimeter thick MDF and just did some basic measurements much material I would need for the case then I use the wood saw to cut off my desired piece and measure the width and height of the visible screen of the LCD the useless plastic around it does not count then I marked a couple of spots two centimeter from the edge of the board and used them as a reference to draw my visible LCD screen onto the wood the final design for the pronged looks like this now I just had to create a solid back plate with the same measurements and four wall pieces boopa height of two point five centimeter and don't worry if you didn't catch all the measurement values there are better pics on Instructables with a detailed parts list and more information now I use my scroll saw to cut out my pieces and let me tell you that MDF is a soft material which makes cutting or treating it very easy it was only a bit dusty at the end but nothing can be perfect once I was done with the saw I could already put my wood pieces together to give you an idea how the finished product might look like and it also showed me that my cutting technique is terrible as always because nothing really fits perfectly without leaving a gap but we can fix this later for now I drilled four holes in the edges of the LCD area and used my saw again to remove this piece now the visible screen should fit inside the frame but I still needed to measure the width of the plastic around it and marked it on to the front plates because we must create an indentation for this plastic with a depth of around four millimeter so that our screen can sit flush inside the frame at first I used a rotary tool with a sanding bit for it but that takes time and is messy it is way easier to just use a box cutter to trace the lines and then lifting the material up with a bit of force once the indentation was created and the screen fits nicely inside the frame we can continue this treatment process with rasps in the next part check back in one week to see the rest of the project and so then don't forget to Like share and subscribe that would be awesome stay creative and I will see you next time