**Exploring Skillshare: An Online Learning Community**

As I sat down to explore the online learning community of Skillshare, I was excited to discover thousands of inspiring classes for creative and curious individuals on topics including fine art animation, web development, photography, and many more. With no ads in sight, the platform is curated specifically for learning, allowing users to stay focused and engaged. This is particularly beneficial for those looking to explore new interests or expand their skills.

I had been contemplating writing a book, but having no previous experience in the matter, I was eager to find resources that could provide me with a solid foundation. Daniel Jose Older's classes on Skillshare seemed like an excellent starting point, and I was excited to dive into this new realm of creativity. With its emphasis on learning and exploration, Skillshare is an ideal platform for anyone looking to develop their skills or simply explore new interests.

**A Brief Interlude**

Unfortunately, my enthusiasm for exploring Skillshare was briefly interrupted by a disappointing experience with the power supply unit. While attempting to test out a piece of equipment outside, I noticed that the power supply fans were overheating and producing an alarming amount of smoke. I immediately turned off the device and took it back inside, as the smell of burning plastic filled the air. Despite my efforts to troubleshoot the issue, the power supply unit had failed catastrophically. The prospect of having to return to the testing process was daunting, but I was determined to persevere.

**A Remarkable LED: A Lesson in Engineering**

However, amidst this setback, there was a silver lining – an incredible piece of engineering known as an LED that had been provided to me for testing purposes. This remarkable device is capable of delivering massive amounts of light from a single point source, making it ideal for commercial installations and studio lighting applications. The color accuracy of the LED is also noteworthy, rivaling even stadium lights in its ability to produce bright, vibrant colors.

My gratitude must go out to my patrons, who generously provided the funds necessary to support this project. The water radiators, cooling components, and powered circuitry were all expensive components that required significant investment. Nevertheless, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to test out this remarkable LED, which has been a game-changer in its own right.

**Future Developments: A Collaboration with Max Maker**

With the failure of the power supply unit temporarily shelved, I began to think about how to move forward with the project. It became clear that the next step would involve building a more reliable and efficient power solution, as well as creating a better enclosure for the device. Fortunately, I had an opportunity to collaborate with Max Maker, another YouTuber who was initially intended to help me design the waterblock for this project. While the original plan was to create a complex CAD design that would be milled out of solid copper, we eventually decided that this approach would be too complicated and expensive.

Despite this change in plans, Max is still on board to assist with the construction of the head and lens system for this remarkable LED device. I am excited about the prospect of working with Max and exploring new ways to optimize the performance and efficiency of this incredible piece of engineering. With its unique capabilities and promise of delivering exceptional results, I have high hopes that this project will ultimately prove to be a success.

**A Final Note**

As I conclude my exploration of Skillshare and the remarkable LED device that has captured my attention, I hope that you have enjoyed reading about my experiences. While there were setbacks along the way, I am confident that the end result will be well worth the effort. Stay tuned for further updates on this project as it continues to evolve, and don't forget to subscribe to DIY Perks for more exciting content!

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enoh boy what I have here in my hand is as far as I'm aware the world's brightest and most powerful single unit LED and as a lighting and LED enthusiast this is a big deal with super exciting but there's a problem you see this uses weight for its 1,500 watts of power 1,500 watts that's a huge amount of power and it means just powering this thing on in itself is going to be a huge challenge and on top of that it's going to generate a ton of heat and that heat needs to be removed from it otherwise it's just going to instantly burn up when powered on now these two challenges are going to be the focus of this video and hopefully by the end of it we'll be able to see just how bright the world's brightest LED really is so without further ado let's get to it so the first thing I'm going to tackle is making an extreme cooling solution for this now unfortunately I can't just use an air cooler as even a colossal one like this is actually only rated for one fifth of the power that this LED kicks out so it's just out of the question so I'm going to have to up the ante and use water cooling now what cooling is actually used everywhere where a lot of heat needs to be taken away quickly from components and is sometimes used in computers these days now computers use these little water blocks which fit onto processes and take the heat away but despite my hunting I can't find one that's big enough to fit on the LED and call it effective so I'm going to have to make my own now what I've got for this is actually an old server heat sink now this is just an air cooler but it's made out of solid copper which means that I can solder to it and hopefully convert it into a water block which can then have water forced through it taking away all the heat from the LED now to make this a sealed watertight chamber I'm actually going to use brass sheeting as it can be soldered onto copper but before I get on with that I need to remove these four screws from the heat sink so that they aren't in the way this does leave four holes which will obviously be bad news for water tightness but I do have a plan for this which you'll see later with that done it's time to mark the size and shape of the heatsink onto the brush sheeting and build up my cutting pattern from this for the construction or an outer shell is a bit like simple origami there is obviously more involved as it needs to be cut out with a jigsaw this does make short work of it though and is now ready to be bent into shape the use of a hammer is a good way to tighten up the bends now this being an outer shell it does need an inlet and an outlet for the water to flow through which I'm going to use a set of plumbing fittings these are quite large so the use of a proper metal step bit is necessary to make the correctly sized holes before inserting the fittings however I am going to add some flux which is important for the soldering step in just a minute as these fittings use the British plumbing standard it will be easy to interface them with other fittings later on so after donning appropriate protective gear it's time to get to work with a blowtorch as the brass is heated up with the torch the solder flows right onto it and thanks to the flux it gets pulled into any gaps filling and sealing them as well as joining them together the charred remains of excess flux is a testament to my lack of experience doing this but once called it does a bit of work to join it together into a single solid unit now the intention here is to have the heatsink fitted inside with its base facing outwards but before soldering this in play I am going to tend to its four holes by inserting brass machine screws and keeping them temporarily in place with some nuts now I can solder these screws in place which I'm hoping will make a watertight seal around them but we will have to wait until later to see whether this works so with that done the heatsink can be fitted into the bash shell and it's time to do some more soldiering what's most surprising to me while doing this is how long it takes to get the heatsink up to temperature but I suppose that's a good thing as it shows that it has a decent thermal mass we're the last pieces now sold it into place I'll be the first to admit that it does look like a horrendous mess but after cleaning it up with some wire wool it actually looks almost beautiful and has a vintage charm to it as far as I can tell the solder joint seemed to be making a good seal so so far so good before mounting the led to this block though it's important to add a thin layer of thermal compound to aid in a heat transfer between the LEDs base and the block and to hold it in place I'm going to use two little 3d printed brackets and the reason they're so shiny is because I stuck some aluminium tape onto them which I subsequently polished for even greater reflectivity the reason for this is so that they don't absorb any spill light from the LED which might have otherwise caused them to fail due to becoming soft from the heat so with the LED now successfully mounted onto the waterblock I need to make some sort of water loop so that the water can be pumped through this and take the heat away from it and for this I'm using a variety of standardized components so that I can put it together quickly now as you can see this looks pretty ropey but it's just something temporary so we can test this LED out and what we've got here is just some large water cooling radiators for computer systems got four of them and I've got reservoir and two pumps down here because that will move more water through the system and add a layer of redundancy just in case one fails because this one very quickly break presumably if the water stopped flowing so it's important to have some backup there now to loop the led into this it's just a case of using the appropriate components and they can just be screwed in like so and then attached to the loop so with that done it's now time to fill this with water and see whether the system works and whether the water block is actually water tight because leaks are definitely something that we don't want so let's get to that well this appears to be working brilliantly and there are no leaks on the water block which is great news and this applies even if I blocked the outward flowing pipe which means that it's actually dealing with a higher level pressure as the water's being forced in with nowhere to go and yet there is still no leaks so that's a really good sign and I would say it's quite a success so with the cooling solution now sorted it's time to move on to the next challenge in this build which is actually going to be delivering power to the LED now I am going to be powering this from the mains for which I have got a set of server power supplies that have been wired up in series to give me 2,000 watts at 24 volts now this has got plenty of wattage at 2,000 watts that's plenty for the LED but the voltage isn't quite there as the LED needs about 30 volts and this can only deliver 24 so I need to use some voltage boost boards to boost this voltage up now thankfully the LED has actually been divided into six power sections making it much easier to drive and because of this I've got six of these voltage boost ports one for each power section this might seem a little like overkill as they could technically just about power two sections each but I'd rather have them run easily at 50% load than have them getting maxed out now starting with a single boost board we can see that its LED section starts to light up at 27 volts and at 30 volts is already too bright to look at directly this really does show off the LEDs efficiency as it is only using five watts at this point and it's going to get 300 times brighter than this this increase in voltage can be continued until the section reaches its maximum wattage as the power board features current limiting a very important thing for LEDs I can pin this wattage at its maximum of 250 Watts so that the section can never pull more than this and go into thermal runaway now it's worth noting that it is actually possible to wire up a slider to control the brightness but I'll leave this for now until I design a full case for the whole thing anyway with all the voltage boost wired up it's time to finally give this thing a test now I do have a couple of sunglasses on hand because although this isn't anything like a laser it's still a lot of light coming from a single point so I might need these just to protect my eyes so it's the moment of truth now I really do hope that the heat sinks gonna keep this cool so I'm going to continually monitor it as I power on each strip so let's see how this goes strip number one Wow so even though this is just one strip this is already really bright I can't feel any heat at all on the heatsink but the LED if I put my hand in front of it it feels warm like I can feel that that's like a really sunny day and you put your hand out and you can feel warmth from the Sun so strip number two strip number three okay now it's getting the height oh my dents but it still feels cool the heatsink still feels cool strip number four strip number five and strip number six well like wow our dear like I can't look at my hand my hand is reflecting the light back and it's too bright even with some glasses on it's too bright oh dear it's gotta have two pairs on Wow that's ridiculous like my hand is so hot yet the heatsink is cold that's really good that's really good Wow okay the the power supply is ramping up its fans now trying to keep up oh that's that's getting hot I did not think that this news house is what power supply would be getting stressed out by this but oh it is there are the fans and run beautiful art what's the liquid temperature okay so we've we've hit 30 Celsius and this is after about five minutes according to this everything that's the pumps the fans the power supply everything's using 1635 watts of power which is a lot isn't it the power supply the Hertz taking off I'll put a little power supply and it's not even warm it's not even warm that's superb the reflectors kind of warm but not at all bad like it's still pretty cool I'd say probably about 30 or 35 degrees Celsius and the actual temperature of the water got up to 31 then I opened the window and it dropped down to 30 so that's really quite impressive so the cooling solution is working effectively and these power supplies have no problem at all then they're barely warm themselves which is not to be to surprising as they are only working at about 50% load however the server power supply is a little bit toasty it ramped its fans up as you heard to maximum and to my hand it's it's hot so that's really the weakest link in the cooling solution but hey it's still within spec presumably so that's all right now I do want to take this outside and see how it looks at night but before that it is time for a quick and from Skillshare an online learning community with thousands of inspiring classes for creative and curious people on topics including fine art animation web development photography and many more its curated specifically for learning with no ads so you can stay focused and they're always launching new premium classes allowing you to explore new interests and stay engaged learning and being creative is one of the good ways of looking after yourself and can break up your routine with something that's positive for me personally I'm wanting to write a book and having had no previous experience on the matter I'm finding Daniel Jose olders classes on skill sure to be a great foundation and it's a new realm of creativity to explore so I'm excited to get going so if you want to explore skill share and see what they have to offer the first thousand of you to visit the link in the description will get a two-month free trial of premium membership so that you can explore your own creativity and see where it takes you well I have some rather unfortunate news I was just trying this out again before taking it outside and then the power supply fans just went crazy super fast super loud turned it off straight away but there was already kind of smoke coming out of them and I think they are dead I'm very it's hot and I don't really want to try it again it's within its capability so the power supply each of them would be delivering maybe 750 watts each yes it's still basically fried them so yeah I'm disappointed it stinks in here and I don't really know what to do I don't have the time to get another power supply so unfortunately I'm gonna have to leave it there without an outside test for now but rest assured I will be revisiting this in the future in the near future hopefully and build this into a much better enclosure that is more reliable and can handle it easily so sorry about that guys we're just gonna have to postpone the outdoor test until I built this into a better enclosure and make a better power solution for it I'm not quite sure why these failed because they should have been able to deliver the power required but it could be that they're it's because they're powered in series and that's not technically something you're supposed to do with power supplies but it's something that hobbyists have sometimes done and again don't copy this at home now the LED is thankfully just fine and the cooling solution worked well to cool it down and I would say that that's a big success and this is an incredible piece of engineering the LED itself and I would say massive respect to the manufacturer because this is a unique piece of tech and is incredibly useful for certain circumstances and say commercial installations and maybe studio lighting as it's a lot of light coming from one point which can be used for for mimicking Sun and all sorts of things and because this is a super high color accurate LED again that shoves it into another category compared to say stadium lights this is a unique piece of tech I'm super impressed by it now a big thanks must go out to my patrons as they basically provided all the funds for this project it's a super expensive project the water radiators and the water cooling components and all all these powered circuitry it's all added up so big thanks to you guys so thanks a lot and the LED itself was sent to me by the manufacturer to test out so do bear that in mind which is a good thing because this is I think it's $1,300 $1,300 so it was a lot of responsibility not to break it and I'm quite relieved that the cooling solution did manage to work effectively so I hope you've enjoyed this video and do subscribe so you don't miss part 2 of this project well I'll be building this into a better enclosure and also sorting out a more reliable power solution and I will hopefully be working with another youtuber called max maker and the actual original plan was for him to help me make the waterblock for this and he made an incredible CAD design that was intended to be milled out of a solid block of copper but we later decided that this was a bit too complicated and due to the cost of copper would be very expensive and there would be potential problems to actually milling the thing out and the failures of doing that and we just decided that this would be a better method but he's going to help me make the head for it and the lens system so that'll be cool so stay tuned for that but I hope you've enjoyed this video otherwise even though there was a slight failure at the end the rest of it I'd say is quite a success so yeah an amazing LED and let's see how bright it is outside when we get this finished off but other than that I'm Matt you've been watching DIY perks and I hope to see you next time good bye for nowoh boy what I have here in my hand is as far as I'm aware the world's brightest and most powerful single unit LED and as a lighting and LED enthusiast this is a big deal with super exciting but there's a problem you see this uses weight for its 1,500 watts of power 1,500 watts that's a huge amount of power and it means just powering this thing on in itself is going to be a huge challenge and on top of that it's going to generate a ton of heat and that heat needs to be removed from it otherwise it's just going to instantly burn up when powered on now these two challenges are going to be the focus of this video and hopefully by the end of it we'll be able to see just how bright the world's brightest LED really is so without further ado let's get to it so the first thing I'm going to tackle is making an extreme cooling solution for this now unfortunately I can't just use an air cooler as even a colossal one like this is actually only rated for one fifth of the power that this LED kicks out so it's just out of the question so I'm going to have to up the ante and use water cooling now what cooling is actually used everywhere where a lot of heat needs to be taken away quickly from components and is sometimes used in computers these days now computers use these little water blocks which fit onto processes and take the heat away but despite my hunting I can't find one that's big enough to fit on the LED and call it effective so I'm going to have to make my own now what I've got for this is actually an old server heat sink now this is just an air cooler but it's made out of solid copper which means that I can solder to it and hopefully convert it into a water block which can then have water forced through it taking away all the heat from the LED now to make this a sealed watertight chamber I'm actually going to use brass sheeting as it can be soldered onto copper but before I get on with that I need to remove these four screws from the heat sink so that they aren't in the way this does leave four holes which will obviously be bad news for water tightness but I do have a plan for this which you'll see later with that done it's time to mark the size and shape of the heatsink onto the brush sheeting and build up my cutting pattern from this for the construction or an outer shell is a bit like simple origami there is obviously more involved as it needs to be cut out with a jigsaw this does make short work of it though and is now ready to be bent into shape the use of a hammer is a good way to tighten up the bends now this being an outer shell it does need an inlet and an outlet for the water to flow through which I'm going to use a set of plumbing fittings these are quite large so the use of a proper metal step bit is necessary to make the correctly sized holes before inserting the fittings however I am going to add some flux which is important for the soldering step in just a minute as these fittings use the British plumbing standard it will be easy to interface them with other fittings later on so after donning appropriate protective gear it's time to get to work with a blowtorch as the brass is heated up with the torch the solder flows right onto it and thanks to the flux it gets pulled into any gaps filling and sealing them as well as joining them together the charred remains of excess flux is a testament to my lack of experience doing this but once called it does a bit of work to join it together into a single solid unit now the intention here is to have the heatsink fitted inside with its base facing outwards but before soldering this in play I am going to tend to its four holes by inserting brass machine screws and keeping them temporarily in place with some nuts now I can solder these screws in place which I'm hoping will make a watertight seal around them but we will have to wait until later to see whether this works so with that done the heatsink can be fitted into the bash shell and it's time to do some more soldiering what's most surprising to me while doing this is how long it takes to get the heatsink up to temperature but I suppose that's a good thing as it shows that it has a decent thermal mass we're the last pieces now sold it into place I'll be the first to admit that it does look like a horrendous mess but after cleaning it up with some wire wool it actually looks almost beautiful and has a vintage charm to it as far as I can tell the solder joint seemed to be making a good seal so so far so good before mounting the led to this block though it's important to add a thin layer of thermal compound to aid in a heat transfer between the LEDs base and the block and to hold it in place I'm going to use two little 3d printed brackets and the reason they're so shiny is because I stuck some aluminium tape onto them which I subsequently polished for even greater reflectivity the reason for this is so that they don't absorb any spill light from the LED which might have otherwise caused them to fail due to becoming soft from the heat so with the LED now successfully mounted onto the waterblock I need to make some sort of water loop so that the water can be pumped through this and take the heat away from it and for this I'm using a variety of standardized components so that I can put it together quickly now as you can see this looks pretty ropey but it's just something temporary so we can test this LED out and what we've got here is just some large water cooling radiators for computer systems got four of them and I've got reservoir and two pumps down here because that will move more water through the system and add a layer of redundancy just in case one fails because this one very quickly break presumably if the water stopped flowing so it's important to have some backup there now to loop the led into this it's just a case of using the appropriate components and they can just be screwed in like so and then attached to the loop so with that done it's now time to fill this with water and see whether the system works and whether the water block is actually water tight because leaks are definitely something that we don't want so let's get to that well this appears to be working brilliantly and there are no leaks on the water block which is great news and this applies even if I blocked the outward flowing pipe which means that it's actually dealing with a higher level pressure as the water's being forced in with nowhere to go and yet there is still no leaks so that's a really good sign and I would say it's quite a success so with the cooling solution now sorted it's time to move on to the next challenge in this build which is actually going to be delivering power to the LED now I am going to be powering this from the mains for which I have got a set of server power supplies that have been wired up in series to give me 2,000 watts at 24 volts now this has got plenty of wattage at 2,000 watts that's plenty for the LED but the voltage isn't quite there as the LED needs about 30 volts and this can only deliver 24 so I need to use some voltage boost boards to boost this voltage up now thankfully the LED has actually been divided into six power sections making it much easier to drive and because of this I've got six of these voltage boost ports one for each power section this might seem a little like overkill as they could technically just about power two sections each but I'd rather have them run easily at 50% load than have them getting maxed out now starting with a single boost board we can see that its LED section starts to light up at 27 volts and at 30 volts is already too bright to look at directly this really does show off the LEDs efficiency as it is only using five watts at this point and it's going to get 300 times brighter than this this increase in voltage can be continued until the section reaches its maximum wattage as the power board features current limiting a very important thing for LEDs I can pin this wattage at its maximum of 250 Watts so that the section can never pull more than this and go into thermal runaway now it's worth noting that it is actually possible to wire up a slider to control the brightness but I'll leave this for now until I design a full case for the whole thing anyway with all the voltage boost wired up it's time to finally give this thing a test now I do have a couple of sunglasses on hand because although this isn't anything like a laser it's still a lot of light coming from a single point so I might need these just to protect my eyes so it's the moment of truth now I really do hope that the heat sinks gonna keep this cool so I'm going to continually monitor it as I power on each strip so let's see how this goes strip number one Wow so even though this is just one strip this is already really bright I can't feel any heat at all on the heatsink but the LED if I put my hand in front of it it feels warm like I can feel that that's like a really sunny day and you put your hand out and you can feel warmth from the Sun so strip number two strip number three okay now it's getting the height oh my dents but it still feels cool the heatsink still feels cool strip number four strip number five and strip number six well like wow our dear like I can't look at my hand my hand is reflecting the light back and it's too bright even with some glasses on it's too bright oh dear it's gotta have two pairs on Wow that's ridiculous like my hand is so hot yet the heatsink is cold that's really good that's really good Wow okay the the power supply is ramping up its fans now trying to keep up oh that's that's getting hot I did not think that this news house is what power supply would be getting stressed out by this but oh it is there are the fans and run beautiful art what's the liquid temperature okay so we've we've hit 30 Celsius and this is after about five minutes according to this everything that's the pumps the fans the power supply everything's using 1635 watts of power which is a lot isn't it the power supply the Hertz taking off I'll put a little power supply and it's not even warm it's not even warm that's superb the reflectors kind of warm but not at all bad like it's still pretty cool I'd say probably about 30 or 35 degrees Celsius and the actual temperature of the water got up to 31 then I opened the window and it dropped down to 30 so that's really quite impressive so the cooling solution is working effectively and these power supplies have no problem at all then they're barely warm themselves which is not to be to surprising as they are only working at about 50% load however the server power supply is a little bit toasty it ramped its fans up as you heard to maximum and to my hand it's it's hot so that's really the weakest link in the cooling solution but hey it's still within spec presumably so that's all right now I do want to take this outside and see how it looks at night but before that it is time for a quick and from Skillshare an online learning community with thousands of inspiring classes for creative and curious people on topics including fine art animation web development photography and many more its curated specifically for learning with no ads so you can stay focused and they're always launching new premium classes allowing you to explore new interests and stay engaged learning and being creative is one of the good ways of looking after yourself and can break up your routine with something that's positive for me personally I'm wanting to write a book and having had no previous experience on the matter I'm finding Daniel Jose olders classes on skill sure to be a great foundation and it's a new realm of creativity to explore so I'm excited to get going so if you want to explore skill share and see what they have to offer the first thousand of you to visit the link in the description will get a two-month free trial of premium membership so that you can explore your own creativity and see where it takes you well I have some rather unfortunate news I was just trying this out again before taking it outside and then the power supply fans just went crazy super fast super loud turned it off straight away but there was already kind of smoke coming out of them and I think they are dead I'm very it's hot and I don't really want to try it again it's within its capability so the power supply each of them would be delivering maybe 750 watts each yes it's still basically fried them so yeah I'm disappointed it stinks in here and I don't really know what to do I don't have the time to get another power supply so unfortunately I'm gonna have to leave it there without an outside test for now but rest assured I will be revisiting this in the future in the near future hopefully and build this into a much better enclosure that is more reliable and can handle it easily so sorry about that guys we're just gonna have to postpone the outdoor test until I built this into a better enclosure and make a better power solution for it I'm not quite sure why these failed because they should have been able to deliver the power required but it could be that they're it's because they're powered in series and that's not technically something you're supposed to do with power supplies but it's something that hobbyists have sometimes done and again don't copy this at home now the LED is thankfully just fine and the cooling solution worked well to cool it down and I would say that that's a big success and this is an incredible piece of engineering the LED itself and I would say massive respect to the manufacturer because this is a unique piece of tech and is incredibly useful for certain circumstances and say commercial installations and maybe studio lighting as it's a lot of light coming from one point which can be used for for mimicking Sun and all sorts of things and because this is a super high color accurate LED again that shoves it into another category compared to say stadium lights this is a unique piece of tech I'm super impressed by it now a big thanks must go out to my patrons as they basically provided all the funds for this project it's a super expensive project the water radiators and the water cooling components and all all these powered circuitry it's all added up so big thanks to you guys so thanks a lot and the LED itself was sent to me by the manufacturer to test out so do bear that in mind which is a good thing because this is I think it's $1,300 $1,300 so it was a lot of responsibility not to break it and I'm quite relieved that the cooling solution did manage to work effectively so I hope you've enjoyed this video and do subscribe so you don't miss part 2 of this project well I'll be building this into a better enclosure and also sorting out a more reliable power solution and I will hopefully be working with another youtuber called max maker and the actual original plan was for him to help me make the waterblock for this and he made an incredible CAD design that was intended to be milled out of a solid block of copper but we later decided that this was a bit too complicated and due to the cost of copper would be very expensive and there would be potential problems to actually milling the thing out and the failures of doing that and we just decided that this would be a better method but he's going to help me make the head for it and the lens system so that'll be cool so stay tuned for that but I hope you've enjoyed this video otherwise even though there was a slight failure at the end the rest of it I'd say is quite a success so yeah an amazing LED and let's see how bright it is outside when we get this finished off but other than that I'm Matt you've been watching DIY perks and I hope to see you next time good bye for now\n"