**Upgrading the Money Pit Miata: Installing New Wheels and Tires**

Now we know that two out of five means it's 205 millimeters wide, so it's pretty much the perfect fitment for our wheels. We could have gone with the 225 on this and it would look a little bulgy, and that's kind of a cool look too, but I went with this because I didn't want to have to modify the body yet.

As far as the sidewall goes, the 50 series profile we did that because it leaves us with a very similar rolling diameter to stock. The overall diameter of the tire and the reason you pay attention to that is because if you change that very much then your speedometer won't read correctly, because now the wheel being a different diameter will spin a different amount of times for a given distance.

Okay, and then the 15 part of the tire was pretty obvious because that's the size of our wheels. And these tires are W-speed rated, which is good for 168 miles an hour, so if we can make this thing do that speed, it'll be prepared.

Now let's talk about four-on-the-floor weather something we haven't talked about yet and that is our offset. These are a plus 28 millimeter offset, how do we get to that? Well again the forums were super helpful because so many people have done similar things it's very easy to find fitments that other people have done.

So I knew this would work but if you don't you can measure and figure out how much offset you can handle. All right, so imagine using your imagination and imagining this is the stock wheel, and basically what you'll want to do at ride height like this is get a straight edge and go from edge to edge through the center of your wheel, and then you'll measure in millimeters how much gap you have from your wheel to the inside of your fender.

Now obviously we're a little bit past flush because our straight edge goes out the outside of our fender but if this was a stock wheel we'd be far inside of the fender and we'd be able to measure from our straight edge to the inner lip of the fender, and then you can see how many millimeters you can move outwards. Now that's only if you're not changing with at the same time if you are you have to take that into account as well but it's very simple: straight edge, measure.

And another thing that we haven't talked about which we have been using and you're gonna need and that's lug nuts. So you could in some cases get away with reusing your stock lug nuts we could have done that here but it wouldn't look as cool and that's a problem for us but what do you need to know to choose some lug nuts? Not really that much, you need to know the diameter and thread pitch of your lug nuts or your bolt holes.

These on the Miata are 12, which means 12 millimeter diameter, and 1.5 millimeter thread pitch, which means a millimeter and a half between each thread. And then the other thing you need to know is your seat, the seat of your lugs in this case it's a cone because the shape here which really is important about the wheel you need to match your lug nuts to your wheels, most are gonna be cones but you need to make sure that you're getting the right stuff for your car.

Then you put them on torque them down to whatever your torque spec is and that's it. That's our first official modification on the money pit Miata, I couldn't be more excited we got a nice set of wheels and some sticky tires this thing is gonna be so much better than it was already but if you look at the car you will notice that it's way too high so we have to address that next.

So that'll be next week, we're gonna do some coil overs and get this thing sitting just right. I appreciate you guys watching, I hope you're having fun I hope you learned a thing or two, so we'll see you guys next week in the meantime follow me on instagram at zack job and follow my boys that helped me make this show at eddie Esparza and at tenderoni, my guys love you guys.

**The Money Pit Miata**

Note: The article is written in a conversational style, so I kept the same structure and wording as much as possible. I only made minor adjustments to improve the flow and readability of the text.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enit's probably the easiest way to change the way your car looks and the way it handles today I'm going to show you how to pick the right wheels for your car including size material offset calculation all that jazz and then I'll show you how to pick the right tire for whatever it is you're doing drifting or carving the canyons or whatever I'll show you how to understand tire then we'll cover how to install them and have you off tripping nasty turns and the canyons in no time I'm Zach and this is money pit let's do it let's talk tires this is the stock wheel tire from the Miata and first I want to go over all the different numbers that are stamped into the side of the tire so we can understand all the things that the tire is trying to tell us so we'll start with the size that big batch in numbers the 185 6014 what do these numbers mean the first number the 185 that's the width in millimeters so that's 185 millimeters wide the second number the 60 that is the sidewall profile it's called an aspect ratio and it's completely dependent on the width of the tire 60 means that the sidewall is 60% of the width of the tire so a 60 sidewall isn't the same on every tire it's always dependent on the width remember that then you've got the last number 14 that's the size of the hole and tire so you know what size wheel to put in it that's pretty simple sizing you get a nice combination of metric and imperial measuring systems which is always fun but then after that there is a couple numbers and a letter we've got 82 here what is that that is your load rating basically it's a system that operates on numbers the higher the number the higher the load rating you can look up the chart to see specifically what the load rating is but most tires say it somewhere 1040 seven pounds is the max load rating on this tires also most tires will say on the tire specifically what the load rating is in pounds so next to our load rating on the tire a thousand forty seven pounds we've also got our max inflation since fifty-one psi listen that is not what you're supposed to drive on that's just the max pressure that the tire can handle you need to check your driver's door jamb or the owners manual for the actual pressure that you're supposed to run in the tires while you're driving for cars it's usually somewhere in the ballpark of like 30 to 35 psi trucks large trucks often closer to 60 to 80 psi but if you drive on your tires max pressure you're gonna get very bad tire wear entire life so anyway back to where we were the letter on the end here what is that that is another rating it's your speed rating if you want to go fast you got to have tires that can handle it if you spend time at a speed above your tires rating the tire can start to delaminate and basically come apart it mostly goes from A to Z with Z being the fastest rating at 186 plus miles per but if the tire is rated to over 149 they'll add a Z into the size and instead of this just being an hour it'll say Zr but to get your specific speed rating you look just past the load rating this tire is an H which means this tire is good to 130 miles an hour all right so that's a big one down now we know how to read the size of a tire it's load rating and it's speed rating but we are not done yet we've got some more dot standardized specs the US Department of Transportation that is in there highway arm the NHTSA put forth a set of standards to measure critical functions of tires for consumers to make better more informed decisions when buying new tires those standards are called the uniform tire quality grade standards or you tqg they've standardized three measurements tread wear traction and temperature let's start with tread wear it's a bit of a convoluted one but let's talk it out the treadwear rating is intended to be a comparative rating of the wear rate of a tire or how fast and easily the rubber will wear down this means that the treadwear rating assigned to a tire means nothing in and of itself because it's comparative it means that in theory a 200 treadwear rating tire will last twice as long as a 100 tread wear tire so that's all pretty simple but it's important to note that the Department of Transportation is not the one conducting any of these tests they leave it up to each tire manufacturer to conduct testing on their own tires against a standardized course monitoring tire the treadwear rating is often honestly closer to a marketing tool than an actual consumer information tool you'll get a good idea of the longevity of tires relative to other tires made by the manufacture but don't expect 400 treadwear Bridgestone Tire to necessarily last as long as a 400 treadwear Goodyear or something else as a general rule though the the lower the number the grippier and stickier the tire will be and some high-performance tires will even rock like a zero treadwear rating because we don't care about tread wear anyway the next you tqg standard is traction and this test is a lot less legible and much more sciency the goal with this test is to measure tires straight line wet traction the way they perform this test is they stick some tires to be tested on an unpowered axle that has all sorts of sciency instruments on it and then they pull that test axle behind a truck at a constant 40 miles an hour on wet asphalt and wet concrete the brakes on the axle are then yanked and as the tire skids along the instruments on the axle measure the tires coefficient of friction or then braking g-forces baby so this test is mostly about how sticky a rubber compound to give and tire is made out of there are four traction grades C B a and double-a each grade correlates to a threshold g-force but I'm not going to sit here and tell you those numbers because anyway on to the last you tqg standard which is temperature and it's pretty simple although it would probably be more accurate to call it a temperature resistance rating as it measures the tires resistance to the buildup of heat or its ability to dissipate heat at speed we tires blow apart in chunks like in drifting for example it's usually because they got too op doing all them skids there are three grades of temp a B and C a means that the tire can maintain a speed of 115 plus miles per hour without generating too much heat B means 100 to 115 miles per hour C means 85 to 100 anything below that cannot be sold here in the USA but pretty much every real tire being sold these days has an a temp rating okay moving right along here is something that you won't see on every tire you can see here it says outside because this is the outside of the tire sometimes it'll say rotation with an arrow and that's because these tires are asymmetric which doesn't mean they're not round it just means that the tread is not symmetric side to side and that's done for a number of reasons sometimes water evacuation or handling characteristics and so these tires are just an inside-outside so it really only matters for the person installing the tires onto the wheels but then this can go on either side of the car can't really go wrong but for rotation specific tires you need to pay attention to which side of the car you put them on and how they're mounted on the wheel bonus points if both of those people are you the guy installing them and mounting them let's talk dot code what is that well kind of like your car has a VIN your tire kinda has a 10 tire identification number of sorts the beginning of the dot code has a bunch of seemingly random numbers and letters which denote where the tire was made its size and some other manufacturers specific info but what we really care about are the last four numbers attached to the dot code and they're only gonna be on one side of the tire so keep that in mind the last four digits are how we can determine when the tires were made 37 the first two digits are the week that the tire was made in a given year the the given year is the last two digits so here 37 10 means that these tires were made the 37th week of 2010 which also means that 10 years old which means they're way too old general rule of thumb is that after six years tires should kind of be retired over time tires dry out and they lose their flexibility and they start to crack and they become dangerous so you can check your dot code whenever you're looking at a car it's an easy way to check how old your tires are okay now we understand all of the basics about tires and what they're trying to tell us but that's only half of the equation the other half is the wheels they're equally important in my opinion you got to get them right especially if you want good fitment so there's kind of a lot to talk about with wheels so let's okay so we'll start with the basics size because that matters this is a 14 by I think five and a half inch wheel which means that this is 14 inches in diameter by five and a half inches in width the wheel pretty simple right but there's another parameter that we give it about offset what is it I know it can be scary but let me break it down and a little bit later I'll show you how to calculate and measure your offset and what you can fit for a new wheel so you can get that fitment that you've all been lusting after so offset it's the measurement of the offset from Center remember that offset from center of the mounting face of the wheel the outside or the face of the wheel is the positive side and the empty barrel the negative space is the negative side so imagine an imaginary line through the center of the wheel that is zero now insert your offset these are a plus 45 so from the center of the wheel plus 45 millimeters which means towards the positive side or the face and that's where our wheels of mounting face will be the further you move this mounting face towards the face of the wheel and the more of the wheel gets tucked or sucked into the car and the more weak your fitment is obviously the more negative you go the more the wheel pokes out because you move that mounting face towards the inside of the wheel and so the more the wheel pokes out and the more gangster fitment you can get alright how about the bolt pattern that is the pattern of the bolts Amiata has a four by 100 bolt pattern that means that there are four lugs spread evenly across an imaginary 100 millimeter diameter circle so this means if you have a set of wheels with an even lug pattern you can effectively measure from hole to hole to find out what size they are but if you have a five lug vehicle you have to do math because no two holes actually oppose each other so yeah I guess is my interesting thing about bolt patterns moving on the last thing that we care about sizing wise is the old hub bore here and it's important because your wheel should be the right size to just slip onto the hub that's what we in the industry call being hub centric it means your wheel is centered by your hub if you're real hole is too big the wheel will then only be centered by the lugs and that's what we call being cédric if you have too big of a hole you can get hub centering rings in like a million different sizes to perfectly take up that gap and center your slabs up which unfortunately I think we're gonna have to do I thought I had hub centric rings for our new wheels and I don't so we're gonna be love lug centric for the next week or so until I order some rings whatever all right now how about different types of wheels let's briefly touch on all the types of wheels in order from cheapest too expensive Asst starting with steelies you know they are they're made out of steel they go behind hubcaps and they can look cool next cast wheels it's just when you pour molten aluminum into a wheel mold and you get a wheel then we've got roll formed wheels which are basically a cast length and then they put a roller system onto that blank and they draw out the barrel which means that they can get it pretty light pretty strong a little bit more than just the cast wheel it's also a little more expensive now we've got forged wheels which is basically when you take a billet of aluminum put it into a forging die and squeeze the hell out of it to get a really strong really dense really light but expensive aluminum alright and then we've got the gangster class of wheels multi piece you've got two piece and three piece the face is separated from the barrel and sometimes the barrel is made out of two pieces and all those different pieces can be made using various forms of the stuff that we just talked about you can spend as much money as you want you can get whatever fitment you want and they look pretty sick but they're also very expensive alright now that you're up to speed on wheels and tires it's time to talk about what we bought for the Miata and why that's right folks we got our pf' ones can you believe it very unique I know instead of NK RPF ones but listen they're one piece they're light they're very strong they're made with that roll forming process that we talked about earlier and they're basically just a great crossroads of all the things that we care about in a wheel so these are a 15 by 8 inch positive 28 millimeter offset so as I break down how I got to this wheel I'm gonna install them because the sun's going down Oh starting to get excited alright so first let's talk about diameter stock wheels are 14 inches these are 15 did that for a few reasons one someday we're gonna put bigger on this car and bigger brakes need more room so we went with an inch larger in diameter beyond that tires you have a lot more options for 15-inch tires like these 14s you don't have nearly as many options another thing with the tires is that the larger the wheel the smaller your sidewall ends up being so you'll get a little bit less flex with a shorter sidewall so these will be a little bit more performance oriented and beyond that I guess really the most important thing of all is that they look better they look a little bit bigger look a little more sporty and that's kind of what we're going for right so these are eight inches wide and the stock ones were six inches wide and the reason for that the reason I wanted wider wheels is so I could have wider tires which means I can have a wider contact patch on the asphalt which means I'll have more grip but the question is how did I know that eight inches would fit and the answer here honestly is mostly from the forums I did a lot of research read what other people had done and I knew that these would fit but if you can't do that you can measure you can have your stock wheels on the car and measure inwards to the nearest thing that you would run into remembering that every inch you go wider will make it stick further in half an inch and further out half an inch as long as you're not changing offset so you can measure or you can do a bunch of research on the forums which is what I did and they fit so for tires we went with a Toyo our triple 8r which is going to be super sticky it's a 205 50 15 how did I decide that size well the wheels like we said are eight inches wide which translates to I think two hundred and three point two millimeters and because we know how to read a tire size now we know that two of five means that it's 205 millimeters wide so it's pretty much the perfect fitment for our wheels we could have gone with the 225 on this and it would look a little bulgy and that's kind of a cool look too but I went with this because I didn't want to have to modify the body yet as far as the sidewall goes the 50 series profile we did that because it leaves us with a very similar to stock rolling diameter the overall diameter of the tire and the reason that you pay attention to that is because if you change that very much then your speedometer won't read correctly because now the wheel being a different diameter will spin a different amount of times for a given distance okay and then the 15 part of the tire was pretty obvious because that's the size of our wheels and these tires are W speed rated which is good for 168 miles an hour so if we can make this thing do that speed will be prepared all right that is four-on-the-floor weather something we haven't talked about yet and that is our offset these are a plus 28 millimeter offset how do we get to that well again the forum's were super helpful because so many people have nyada's it's very easy to find fitments that other people have done so I knew this would work but if you don't you can measure and figure out how much offset you can handle all right so imagine use your imagination and imagine this is the stock wheel and imagine that we remembered to film this part two hours ago when we had the stock wheels on and basically what you'll want to do at ride height like this is get a straight edge and go from edge to edge through the center of your wheel and then you'll measure in millimeters how much gap you have from your wheel to the inside of your fender now obviously we're a little bit past flush because our straight edge goes out the outside of our fender but if this was a stock wheel we'd be far inside of the fender and we'd be able to measure from our straight edge to the inner lip of the fender and then you can see how many millimeters you can move outwards now that's only if you're not changing with at the same time if you are you have to take that into account as well but it's very simple straight edge measure and then you know okay so there's another thing that we haven't talked about which we have been using and you're gonna need and that's lug nuts so you could in some cases get away with reusing your stock lug nuts we could have done that here but it wouldn't look as cool and that's a problem for us but what do you need to know to choose some lug nuts not really that much you need to know the diameter and thread pitch of your lug nuts or your bolt holes these on the Miata are a 12 which means 12 millimeter diameter and 1.5 millimeter thread pitch which means a millimeter and a half between each thread and then the other thing you need to know is your seat the seat of your lugs in this case it's a cone because the shape here which really is important about the wheel you need to match your lug nuts to your wheels most are gonna be cones but you need to make sure that you're getting the right stuff for your car then you put them on torque them down to whatever your torque spec is and that's it that's it that's our first official modification on the money pit Miata and I couldn't be more excited we got a nice set of wheels and some sticky tires this thing is gonna be so much better than it was already but if you look at the car you will notice that it's it's way too high so we have to address that next so that'll be next week we're gonna do some coil overs and get this thing sitting just right so I appreciate you guys watching I hope you're having fun I hope you learned a thing or two so we'll see you guys next week in the meantime follow me on instagram at zack job and follow my boys that helped me make this show at eddie Esparza and at tenderoni my guys love you guys see you next weekit's probably the easiest way to change the way your car looks and the way it handles today I'm going to show you how to pick the right wheels for your car including size material offset calculation all that jazz and then I'll show you how to pick the right tire for whatever it is you're doing drifting or carving the canyons or whatever I'll show you how to understand tire then we'll cover how to install them and have you off tripping nasty turns and the canyons in no time I'm Zach and this is money pit let's do it let's talk tires this is the stock wheel tire from the Miata and first I want to go over all the different numbers that are stamped into the side of the tire so we can understand all the things that the tire is trying to tell us so we'll start with the size that big batch in numbers the 185 6014 what do these numbers mean the first number the 185 that's the width in millimeters so that's 185 millimeters wide the second number the 60 that is the sidewall profile it's called an aspect ratio and it's completely dependent on the width of the tire 60 means that the sidewall is 60% of the width of the tire so a 60 sidewall isn't the same on every tire it's always dependent on the width remember that then you've got the last number 14 that's the size of the hole and tire so you know what size wheel to put in it that's pretty simple sizing you get a nice combination of metric and imperial measuring systems which is always fun but then after that there is a couple numbers and a letter we've got 82 here what is that that is your load rating basically it's a system that operates on numbers the higher the number the higher the load rating you can look up the chart to see specifically what the load rating is but most tires say it somewhere 1040 seven pounds is the max load rating on this tires also most tires will say on the tire specifically what the load rating is in pounds so next to our load rating on the tire a thousand forty seven pounds we've also got our max inflation since fifty-one psi listen that is not what you're supposed to drive on that's just the max pressure that the tire can handle you need to check your driver's door jamb or the owners manual for the actual pressure that you're supposed to run in the tires while you're driving for cars it's usually somewhere in the ballpark of like 30 to 35 psi trucks large trucks often closer to 60 to 80 psi but if you drive on your tires max pressure you're gonna get very bad tire wear entire life so anyway back to where we were the letter on the end here what is that that is another rating it's your speed rating if you want to go fast you got to have tires that can handle it if you spend time at a speed above your tires rating the tire can start to delaminate and basically come apart it mostly goes from A to Z with Z being the fastest rating at 186 plus miles per but if the tire is rated to over 149 they'll add a Z into the size and instead of this just being an hour it'll say Zr but to get your specific speed rating you look just past the load rating this tire is an H which means this tire is good to 130 miles an hour all right so that's a big one down now we know how to read the size of a tire it's load rating and it's speed rating but we are not done yet we've got some more dot standardized specs the US Department of Transportation that is in there highway arm the NHTSA put forth a set of standards to measure critical functions of tires for consumers to make better more informed decisions when buying new tires those standards are called the uniform tire quality grade standards or you tqg they've standardized three measurements tread wear traction and temperature let's start with tread wear it's a bit of a convoluted one but let's talk it out the treadwear rating is intended to be a comparative rating of the wear rate of a tire or how fast and easily the rubber will wear down this means that the treadwear rating assigned to a tire means nothing in and of itself because it's comparative it means that in theory a 200 treadwear rating tire will last twice as long as a 100 tread wear tire so that's all pretty simple but it's important to note that the Department of Transportation is not the one conducting any of these tests they leave it up to each tire manufacturer to conduct testing on their own tires against a standardized course monitoring tire the treadwear rating is often honestly closer to a marketing tool than an actual consumer information tool you'll get a good idea of the longevity of tires relative to other tires made by the manufacture but don't expect 400 treadwear Bridgestone Tire to necessarily last as long as a 400 treadwear Goodyear or something else as a general rule though the the lower the number the grippier and stickier the tire will be and some high-performance tires will even rock like a zero treadwear rating because we don't care about tread wear anyway the next you tqg standard is traction and this test is a lot less legible and much more sciency the goal with this test is to measure tires straight line wet traction the way they perform this test is they stick some tires to be tested on an unpowered axle that has all sorts of sciency instruments on it and then they pull that test axle behind a truck at a constant 40 miles an hour on wet asphalt and wet concrete the brakes on the axle are then yanked and as the tire skids along the instruments on the axle measure the tires coefficient of friction or then braking g-forces baby so this test is mostly about how sticky a rubber compound to give and tire is made out of there are four traction grades C B a and double-a each grade correlates to a threshold g-force but I'm not going to sit here and tell you those numbers because anyway on to the last you tqg standard which is temperature and it's pretty simple although it would probably be more accurate to call it a temperature resistance rating as it measures the tires resistance to the buildup of heat or its ability to dissipate heat at speed we tires blow apart in chunks like in drifting for example it's usually because they got too op doing all them skids there are three grades of temp a B and C a means that the tire can maintain a speed of 115 plus miles per hour without generating too much heat B means 100 to 115 miles per hour C means 85 to 100 anything below that cannot be sold here in the USA but pretty much every real tire being sold these days has an a temp rating okay moving right along here is something that you won't see on every tire you can see here it says outside because this is the outside of the tire sometimes it'll say rotation with an arrow and that's because these tires are asymmetric which doesn't mean they're not round it just means that the tread is not symmetric side to side and that's done for a number of reasons sometimes water evacuation or handling characteristics and so these tires are just an inside-outside so it really only matters for the person installing the tires onto the wheels but then this can go on either side of the car can't really go wrong but for rotation specific tires you need to pay attention to which side of the car you put them on and how they're mounted on the wheel bonus points if both of those people are you the guy installing them and mounting them let's talk dot code what is that well kind of like your car has a VIN your tire kinda has a 10 tire identification number of sorts the beginning of the dot code has a bunch of seemingly random numbers and letters which denote where the tire was made its size and some other manufacturers specific info but what we really care about are the last four numbers attached to the dot code and they're only gonna be on one side of the tire so keep that in mind the last four digits are how we can determine when the tires were made 37 the first two digits are the week that the tire was made in a given year the the given year is the last two digits so here 37 10 means that these tires were made the 37th week of 2010 which also means that 10 years old which means they're way too old general rule of thumb is that after six years tires should kind of be retired over time tires dry out and they lose their flexibility and they start to crack and they become dangerous so you can check your dot code whenever you're looking at a car it's an easy way to check how old your tires are okay now we understand all of the basics about tires and what they're trying to tell us but that's only half of the equation the other half is the wheels they're equally important in my opinion you got to get them right especially if you want good fitment so there's kind of a lot to talk about with wheels so let's okay so we'll start with the basics size because that matters this is a 14 by I think five and a half inch wheel which means that this is 14 inches in diameter by five and a half inches in width the wheel pretty simple right but there's another parameter that we give it about offset what is it I know it can be scary but let me break it down and a little bit later I'll show you how to calculate and measure your offset and what you can fit for a new wheel so you can get that fitment that you've all been lusting after so offset it's the measurement of the offset from Center remember that offset from center of the mounting face of the wheel the outside or the face of the wheel is the positive side and the empty barrel the negative space is the negative side so imagine an imaginary line through the center of the wheel that is zero now insert your offset these are a plus 45 so from the center of the wheel plus 45 millimeters which means towards the positive side or the face and that's where our wheels of mounting face will be the further you move this mounting face towards the face of the wheel and the more of the wheel gets tucked or sucked into the car and the more weak your fitment is obviously the more negative you go the more the wheel pokes out because you move that mounting face towards the inside of the wheel and so the more the wheel pokes out and the more gangster fitment you can get alright how about the bolt pattern that is the pattern of the bolts Amiata has a four by 100 bolt pattern that means that there are four lugs spread evenly across an imaginary 100 millimeter diameter circle so this means if you have a set of wheels with an even lug pattern you can effectively measure from hole to hole to find out what size they are but if you have a five lug vehicle you have to do math because no two holes actually oppose each other so yeah I guess is my interesting thing about bolt patterns moving on the last thing that we care about sizing wise is the old hub bore here and it's important because your wheel should be the right size to just slip onto the hub that's what we in the industry call being hub centric it means your wheel is centered by your hub if you're real hole is too big the wheel will then only be centered by the lugs and that's what we call being cédric if you have too big of a hole you can get hub centering rings in like a million different sizes to perfectly take up that gap and center your slabs up which unfortunately I think we're gonna have to do I thought I had hub centric rings for our new wheels and I don't so we're gonna be love lug centric for the next week or so until I order some rings whatever all right now how about different types of wheels let's briefly touch on all the types of wheels in order from cheapest too expensive Asst starting with steelies you know they are they're made out of steel they go behind hubcaps and they can look cool next cast wheels it's just when you pour molten aluminum into a wheel mold and you get a wheel then we've got roll formed wheels which are basically a cast length and then they put a roller system onto that blank and they draw out the barrel which means that they can get it pretty light pretty strong a little bit more than just the cast wheel it's also a little more expensive now we've got forged wheels which is basically when you take a billet of aluminum put it into a forging die and squeeze the hell out of it to get a really strong really dense really light but expensive aluminum alright and then we've got the gangster class of wheels multi piece you've got two piece and three piece the face is separated from the barrel and sometimes the barrel is made out of two pieces and all those different pieces can be made using various forms of the stuff that we just talked about you can spend as much money as you want you can get whatever fitment you want and they look pretty sick but they're also very expensive alright now that you're up to speed on wheels and tires it's time to talk about what we bought for the Miata and why that's right folks we got our pf' ones can you believe it very unique I know instead of NK RPF ones but listen they're one piece they're light they're very strong they're made with that roll forming process that we talked about earlier and they're basically just a great crossroads of all the things that we care about in a wheel so these are a 15 by 8 inch positive 28 millimeter offset so as I break down how I got to this wheel I'm gonna install them because the sun's going down Oh starting to get excited alright so first let's talk about diameter stock wheels are 14 inches these are 15 did that for a few reasons one someday we're gonna put bigger on this car and bigger brakes need more room so we went with an inch larger in diameter beyond that tires you have a lot more options for 15-inch tires like these 14s you don't have nearly as many options another thing with the tires is that the larger the wheel the smaller your sidewall ends up being so you'll get a little bit less flex with a shorter sidewall so these will be a little bit more performance oriented and beyond that I guess really the most important thing of all is that they look better they look a little bit bigger look a little more sporty and that's kind of what we're going for right so these are eight inches wide and the stock ones were six inches wide and the reason for that the reason I wanted wider wheels is so I could have wider tires which means I can have a wider contact patch on the asphalt which means I'll have more grip but the question is how did I know that eight inches would fit and the answer here honestly is mostly from the forums I did a lot of research read what other people had done and I knew that these would fit but if you can't do that you can measure you can have your stock wheels on the car and measure inwards to the nearest thing that you would run into remembering that every inch you go wider will make it stick further in half an inch and further out half an inch as long as you're not changing offset so you can measure or you can do a bunch of research on the forums which is what I did and they fit so for tires we went with a Toyo our triple 8r which is going to be super sticky it's a 205 50 15 how did I decide that size well the wheels like we said are eight inches wide which translates to I think two hundred and three point two millimeters and because we know how to read a tire size now we know that two of five means that it's 205 millimeters wide so it's pretty much the perfect fitment for our wheels we could have gone with the 225 on this and it would look a little bulgy and that's kind of a cool look too but I went with this because I didn't want to have to modify the body yet as far as the sidewall goes the 50 series profile we did that because it leaves us with a very similar to stock rolling diameter the overall diameter of the tire and the reason that you pay attention to that is because if you change that very much then your speedometer won't read correctly because now the wheel being a different diameter will spin a different amount of times for a given distance okay and then the 15 part of the tire was pretty obvious because that's the size of our wheels and these tires are W speed rated which is good for 168 miles an hour so if we can make this thing do that speed will be prepared all right that is four-on-the-floor weather something we haven't talked about yet and that is our offset these are a plus 28 millimeter offset how do we get to that well again the forum's were super helpful because so many people have nyada's it's very easy to find fitments that other people have done so I knew this would work but if you don't you can measure and figure out how much offset you can handle all right so imagine use your imagination and imagine this is the stock wheel and imagine that we remembered to film this part two hours ago when we had the stock wheels on and basically what you'll want to do at ride height like this is get a straight edge and go from edge to edge through the center of your wheel and then you'll measure in millimeters how much gap you have from your wheel to the inside of your fender now obviously we're a little bit past flush because our straight edge goes out the outside of our fender but if this was a stock wheel we'd be far inside of the fender and we'd be able to measure from our straight edge to the inner lip of the fender and then you can see how many millimeters you can move outwards now that's only if you're not changing with at the same time if you are you have to take that into account as well but it's very simple straight edge measure and then you know okay so there's another thing that we haven't talked about which we have been using and you're gonna need and that's lug nuts so you could in some cases get away with reusing your stock lug nuts we could have done that here but it wouldn't look as cool and that's a problem for us but what do you need to know to choose some lug nuts not really that much you need to know the diameter and thread pitch of your lug nuts or your bolt holes these on the Miata are a 12 which means 12 millimeter diameter and 1.5 millimeter thread pitch which means a millimeter and a half between each thread and then the other thing you need to know is your seat the seat of your lugs in this case it's a cone because the shape here which really is important about the wheel you need to match your lug nuts to your wheels most are gonna be cones but you need to make sure that you're getting the right stuff for your car then you put them on torque them down to whatever your torque spec is and that's it that's it that's our first official modification on the money pit Miata and I couldn't be more excited we got a nice set of wheels and some sticky tires this thing is gonna be so much better than it was already but if you look at the car you will notice that it's it's way too high so we have to address that next so that'll be next week we're gonna do some coil overs and get this thing sitting just right so I appreciate you guys watching I hope you're having fun I hope you learned a thing or two so we'll see you guys next week in the meantime follow me on instagram at zack job and follow my boys that helped me make this show at eddie Esparza and at tenderoni my guys love you guys see you next week