**Building a Custom Boombox with Renewable Energy**

I started by selecting four battery packs, each consisting of ten 18650 batteries, for the last peg were not new and thus featured all a different voltage potential so I had to charge them all up through my lab bench power supply before joining them the same way as the previous three pegs. This resulted in four fully charged packs with a voltage potential of 4.2 volts.

Next, I created serious connections using nickel strips as soon as I was done with the welding connections according to the scheme. Then, I wrapped the battery pack up and kept on tape double-checked all the voltage potentials before starting the soldering process to hook up a BMS that adds overcurrent and over-discharge protection, offering a balance charge feature.

Unfortunately, this particular BMS decided not to work correctly, so I went with another one that did the job without any issues. After this, we successfully created our power source whose positive terminal connects to a simple switch, which powers the amplifier, reduces B ports, and displays the battery level indicator circuits.

To learn more about the battery level indicator circuits, please watch the project video on it now. For my M I utilized this TP A3 100D2 boards, which is a 20-watts stereo Class D audio amp. Although 20 watts may seem like a low power output, it can drive quite loads and the amp only draws around 7-0 million volts maximum while doing so.

This means that the battery pack can power the amp for around 100 hours without any problems. The amps input is connected to two resistors, which convert the stereo signal of the audio jack into a suitable mono signal. The output of the amp is then connected to the audio crossover and the crossover to the loud speakers.

Additionally, I connected the SD pin aka shutdown pin of the amp to ground when switched on so that we can turn off the amp separately if needed. Speaking of charging up, I did not create this 5-volt USB charger gadgets; instead, I sourced them from Amazon.

Finally, I got an XT60 connector for the wiring so that we can charge up the battery pack and with that being said let's get back to the control panel after determining all the dimensions of the components, I marked them onto the boards and utilized the fitting drill to create all the circular cutouts for the rectangular cutouts.

Although I firstly created a couple of holes and then smoke files to create the required shape, as soon as all parts fitted snugly in the cutouts, I marked the center line on the top side of the speaker in order to determine the mounting holes for the metal handle. After drilling them, I test mounted the handle which functioned just like a handle and removed it afterwards immediately.

The reason for that was that I still had to spray paint the whole speaker as well as the control panel with black paints but before doing that, I temporarily mounted the two hinges and the snap lock in place with small universal screws so that I later still knew where wanted to position them.

And note that I got my beautiful looking speaker as well as the control panel. It was finally time for the assembly process first off I added new cushion feet to the speaker then I mounted the XT60 connector, LEDs audio jack and switches in place with some two-component hyssop.

While I was at it I also secured the battery pack audio crossover circuits the amp and the battery level indicator circuits inside the enclosure with two compound adhesive but only after adding the necessary virus to all the circuits. Next I mounted V5 food USB ports and finally started connecting all the components one by one through solder connections and to Vargo terminals.

Once the wiring was complete I hooked up the loudspeakers secure them to the enclosure and edited the hinges and the snap lock which basically means that this project was complete now I'm very happy with the end results and will definitely use it in my upcoming vacation.

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enrecently a friend of mine gave me this bookshelf speaker you know the type of loudspeaker with a big empty enclosure to which you can connect and already amplified audio signal anyway even though I appreciated the gifts I had no proper use for it but since I had a couple of lithium-ion batteries and a few other components laying around from previous projects I fought to myself why not create something useful out of the speaker so in this video I will show you how I turned it into an awesome portable boombox whose battery level is monitored by an LED pot display and can withstand around 100 hours of continuous music playback and since the boombox has built-in USB ports for charging and the power and amplifier can be activated separately it is perfect for all outdoor trips so let's not waste any more time and let's get started with the builds this video is sponsored by jl CPC be one fact about them jl c PCB provides customized PCB service to companies and engineers with quantities of five to fifty thousand pieces upload rogova files to order high quality PCBs for only $2.00 first off I removed the cap of the loudspeakers and took them out of the enclosure by removing their mounting screws and after pulling out all the insulation material I unscrewed a circuit board at the bottom of the box and pulled it out as well this circuit is a so called passive audio crossover which mainly consists of coils and capacitors it's job is to divide the frequency range of the music and sent to high frequencies to the small speaker and the low frequencies to the big speaker this way you get an overall better sound experience but since this audio crossover was pretty old I got myself a new one for the boombox nevertheless after I cut off all the wiring I pushed out the short audio connector and started making a suitable size for control panel on the back side of the speaker according to the dimensions of my favorite multi components in this case a hinge and a snap lock as soon as I got a decent looking rectangle I drew both the hole in each corner of it and afterwards utilized the jigsaw to cut it out completely and since I'm not the best when it comes to following a line with a jigsaw I had to treat all the sides move a file afterwards then I measured out the heights and width of the rectangle which was sixteen by fourteen point five centimeter and do such rectangle on an additional piece of six millimeter fake MDF to cut it out though I utilized the circular saw this time but since it did not fit perfectly in the cavity of the speaker I had to redo the file treatment until everything fitted snugly that means it was time to position all the required components that we need access to on the control boards and mark the position and I think this is a good time to tell you about the utilized components and how I will wire them up later for starters I got myself sixteen lithium ion batteries which we're the type I in our 18 650 - 25 hour out of which I wanted to create a 4s 4p battery pack with a nominal voltage of fourteen point eight volts and a capacity of 10 amp hours since 12 of those batteries we're still brand new which means all the voltages were pretty much the same I quickly created three year four P packs by simply connecting four batteries each in parallel for the parallel connections I utilized a bit thinner nickel strips than for the serious connections so that if one battery goes bad in the parallel pack vinegar strip connection can be interrupted through the overcurrent and of course for the welding I use the K welds but feel free to watch my ebike battery pack video if you want more information on how to create a lithium-ion battery pack now the remaining four batteries for the last peg were not new and thus featured all a different voltage potential so I had to charge them all up through my lab bench power supply before joining them the same way as the previous three pegs and so I gots my four packs which are all charged up to 4.2 volts before creating the serious connections were fake on nickel strips as soon as I was done with the welding connections according to the scheme I then wrapped the battery pack up and kept on tape double-checked all the voltage potentials and started soldering wires to the terminals in order to hook up a BMS which adds over current and over discharge protection and offers a balance charge feature but since this particular one decided to not work correctly I went with another one which did the job without a problem and just like that we got our power source whose positive terminal will connect to a simple switch which will then power the amplifier v reduce B ports and the battery level indicator circuits if you want to learn more about the battery level indicator circuits then make sure to watch the project video about it now for the M I utilized this TP a 3 100 d2 boards which is a 20 watts stereo Class D audio amp you might think 20 watts does not sound like much but as you can see in this demonstration can't get quite loads and best of all the amp only draws around 70 million maximum while doing so that means the battery can power the amp for around 100 hours without a problem but anyway the amps input is connected to two resistors which turned the stereo signal of the audio jacks music signal into suitable mono signal the output of the amp is then connected to the audio crossover and the crossover to the loud speakers additionally year I connected the SD pin aka shutdown pin of the amp to whenever switched to grounds so that we can turn off the amp separately if we for example only want to charge up our phone and speaking of charging up I did not create this 5 volt USB charger gadgets I instead scattered for cheap from Amazon last but not least we got an xt60 connector for the wiring so that we can charge up the battery pack and with that being said let's get back to the control panel after determining all the dimensions of the components I marked them onto the boards and utilized the fitting drill to create all the circular cutouts for the rectangular cutout though I firstly created a couple of holes and then you smoke files to create the required shape and as soon as all parts fitted snugly in the cutouts I marked the center line on the top side of the speaker in order to determine the mounting holes for metal handle after drilling them I test mounted the handle which function just like handle and removed it afterwards immediately the reason for that was that I still had to spray paint the whole speaker as well as the control panel with black paints but before doing that I temporarily mounted the two hinges and the snap lock in place with small universal screws so that I later still knew where wanted to position them and note that I got my beautiful looking speaker as well as the control panel it was finally time for the assembly first off I added new cushion feet to the speaker then I mounted the xt60 connector LEDs audio jack and switches in place with some two-component hyssop and while I was at it I also secured the battery pack audio crossover circuits the amp and the battery level indicator circuits inside the enclosure with two compound adhesive as well but only after I added the necessary virus to all the circuits next I mounted v5 food USB ports and finally started connecting all the components to one an hour through solder connections and to Vargo terminals and to be on the safe side it is definitely recommended to utilize heat shrink tubing to prevent shorts and once the wiring boss completes I hooked up the loudspeakers secure them to the enclosure and edit the hinges and the snap lock which basically means that this project was complete now I'm very happy with the end results and will definitely use it in my upcoming vacation if you enjoyed the project a-slash video then don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time is what you would expect as my last words in a video but since this is an audio project here's some raw audio footage from the boombox enjoyrecently a friend of mine gave me this bookshelf speaker you know the type of loudspeaker with a big empty enclosure to which you can connect and already amplified audio signal anyway even though I appreciated the gifts I had no proper use for it but since I had a couple of lithium-ion batteries and a few other components laying around from previous projects I fought to myself why not create something useful out of the speaker so in this video I will show you how I turned it into an awesome portable boombox whose battery level is monitored by an LED pot display and can withstand around 100 hours of continuous music playback and since the boombox has built-in USB ports for charging and the power and amplifier can be activated separately it is perfect for all outdoor trips so let's not waste any more time and let's get started with the builds this video is sponsored by jl CPC be one fact about them jl c PCB provides customized PCB service to companies and engineers with quantities of five to fifty thousand pieces upload rogova files to order high quality PCBs for only $2.00 first off I removed the cap of the loudspeakers and took them out of the enclosure by removing their mounting screws and after pulling out all the insulation material I unscrewed a circuit board at the bottom of the box and pulled it out as well this circuit is a so called passive audio crossover which mainly consists of coils and capacitors it's job is to divide the frequency range of the music and sent to high frequencies to the small speaker and the low frequencies to the big speaker this way you get an overall better sound experience but since this audio crossover was pretty old I got myself a new one for the boombox nevertheless after I cut off all the wiring I pushed out the short audio connector and started making a suitable size for control panel on the back side of the speaker according to the dimensions of my favorite multi components in this case a hinge and a snap lock as soon as I got a decent looking rectangle I drew both the hole in each corner of it and afterwards utilized the jigsaw to cut it out completely and since I'm not the best when it comes to following a line with a jigsaw I had to treat all the sides move a file afterwards then I measured out the heights and width of the rectangle which was sixteen by fourteen point five centimeter and do such rectangle on an additional piece of six millimeter fake MDF to cut it out though I utilized the circular saw this time but since it did not fit perfectly in the cavity of the speaker I had to redo the file treatment until everything fitted snugly that means it was time to position all the required components that we need access to on the control boards and mark the position and I think this is a good time to tell you about the utilized components and how I will wire them up later for starters I got myself sixteen lithium ion batteries which we're the type I in our 18 650 - 25 hour out of which I wanted to create a 4s 4p battery pack with a nominal voltage of fourteen point eight volts and a capacity of 10 amp hours since 12 of those batteries we're still brand new which means all the voltages were pretty much the same I quickly created three year four P packs by simply connecting four batteries each in parallel for the parallel connections I utilized a bit thinner nickel strips than for the serious connections so that if one battery goes bad in the parallel pack vinegar strip connection can be interrupted through the overcurrent and of course for the welding I use the K welds but feel free to watch my ebike battery pack video if you want more information on how to create a lithium-ion battery pack now the remaining four batteries for the last peg were not new and thus featured all a different voltage potential so I had to charge them all up through my lab bench power supply before joining them the same way as the previous three pegs and so I gots my four packs which are all charged up to 4.2 volts before creating the serious connections were fake on nickel strips as soon as I was done with the welding connections according to the scheme I then wrapped the battery pack up and kept on tape double-checked all the voltage potentials and started soldering wires to the terminals in order to hook up a BMS which adds over current and over discharge protection and offers a balance charge feature but since this particular one decided to not work correctly I went with another one which did the job without a problem and just like that we got our power source whose positive terminal will connect to a simple switch which will then power the amplifier v reduce B ports and the battery level indicator circuits if you want to learn more about the battery level indicator circuits then make sure to watch the project video about it now for the M I utilized this TP a 3 100 d2 boards which is a 20 watts stereo Class D audio amp you might think 20 watts does not sound like much but as you can see in this demonstration can't get quite loads and best of all the amp only draws around 70 million maximum while doing so that means the battery can power the amp for around 100 hours without a problem but anyway the amps input is connected to two resistors which turned the stereo signal of the audio jacks music signal into suitable mono signal the output of the amp is then connected to the audio crossover and the crossover to the loud speakers additionally year I connected the SD pin aka shutdown pin of the amp to whenever switched to grounds so that we can turn off the amp separately if we for example only want to charge up our phone and speaking of charging up I did not create this 5 volt USB charger gadgets I instead scattered for cheap from Amazon last but not least we got an xt60 connector for the wiring so that we can charge up the battery pack and with that being said let's get back to the control panel after determining all the dimensions of the components I marked them onto the boards and utilized the fitting drill to create all the circular cutouts for the rectangular cutout though I firstly created a couple of holes and then you smoke files to create the required shape and as soon as all parts fitted snugly in the cutouts I marked the center line on the top side of the speaker in order to determine the mounting holes for metal handle after drilling them I test mounted the handle which function just like handle and removed it afterwards immediately the reason for that was that I still had to spray paint the whole speaker as well as the control panel with black paints but before doing that I temporarily mounted the two hinges and the snap lock in place with small universal screws so that I later still knew where wanted to position them and note that I got my beautiful looking speaker as well as the control panel it was finally time for the assembly first off I added new cushion feet to the speaker then I mounted the xt60 connector LEDs audio jack and switches in place with some two-component hyssop and while I was at it I also secured the battery pack audio crossover circuits the amp and the battery level indicator circuits inside the enclosure with two compound adhesive as well but only after I added the necessary virus to all the circuits next I mounted v5 food USB ports and finally started connecting all the components to one an hour through solder connections and to Vargo terminals and to be on the safe side it is definitely recommended to utilize heat shrink tubing to prevent shorts and once the wiring boss completes I hooked up the loudspeakers secure them to the enclosure and edit the hinges and the snap lock which basically means that this project was complete now I'm very happy with the end results and will definitely use it in my upcoming vacation if you enjoyed the project a-slash video then don't forget to Like share and subscribe stay creative and I will see you next time is what you would expect as my last words in a video but since this is an audio project here's some raw audio footage from the boombox enjoy