**The Ultimate Guide to Measuring a Block: A Personal Experience**

I'm going to start at this end because this is where I am. This is the back of the engine, and this is position number seven. I've got all my notes written down, so I'm ready to write down my measurements.

I guess I could bring that notebook over here that would be cool. Uh, let's see what number one looks like. Basically, what we're doing here is looking for the lowest number that we hit before we start going back to big. So, we are two tens of thousands under our ultimate spec. That's good; it's in spec, not by a whole lot but it is in spec.

Position seven minus point zero zero zero two is okay and so then that's from this number 2.3098. We've got a 2.3096 bore right there which is close to being out of spec. But it's in spec, so that's cool with me. Let's keep going and see if we find one that's not looking so hot.

Ooh, six ten all right, so we'll call that six ten thousands under our spec two tens thousands smaller than spec. Okay, so I just measured six of my seven main cap journals and they all came in within specs. That's great. Uh, but the trouble is that my main caps are obviously one big piece here, and I can't get to the center one with my board gauge from either end. It would be one thing if they were individual; but as one, I really can't measure that center one.

So, I'm going to assume based on the rest of them that the center one's probably all right too. So, I'm going to proceed like this is a usable block, but when this does end up at a machine shop, I'll have him check it just to make sure.

Now, I'm going to flip this thing around and we're going to check the top of the block for warpage real quick. Ghost, what a boat anchor these things are heavy. Okay, so basically what we're talking about here is if there's any warpage to the top of this surface. This is the top of the block, so we do want this to be super straight and flat.

So, in terms of flatness at the top of the deck, there is a spec for that. The limit is point one millimeter; a tenth of a millimeter. All right, so to do this, you want to make sure the top of your block is very clean and free of gasket material or debris.

So, I'm just gonna put my straight edge on top of this unit in a few different ways and try to put my feeler gauge at a four thousandths of an inch or 0.102 of a millimeter if I can slip that under anywhere, then we might be warped.

Well, it doesn't look like we have much warpage, and well, by golly, that's cool. So, I think the block is gonna be reusable. I still gotta find a machine shop, but that is now my top priority. So, I'm gonna send this thing off to it and order a bunch of parts.

Heartbreaking as this has been, I've kind of wanted to tear into this thing for a long time. So, I hope you guys learned something today hanging out with us. Uh, and if you liked what you saw, make sure you subscribe to the channel and you can go follow me on Instagram at Zack Job, and you can follow at Donut Media.

I'll see you guys next Wednesday. Hey guys, what's up? I got some big news, and it's right here on my head. Introducing the first official Donut Beanie, only available at DonutMedia.com. It comes in two awesome colors – vibrant orange for those who want to stand out during the day, and navy blue for those who want to blend in at night.

The best thing about a beanie, no matter who you are, it can help highlight your personality. Whether you're intimidating at first but once you get to know you, you're a really nice person, or if you're someone who always has that band that your friends never heard of and you're shocked and you make them listen to them right away, just like sort of an old poetic soul kind of type.

An actor slash writer slash director slash musician I own an acoustic guitar. The Donut Beanie is the perfect hat for any occasion or any type of person. Get yours at DonutMedia.com

WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enso we recently did some inspection on my rb25 powered s14 to find that the rod bearing on cylinder number six had spun so today we're going to pull the engine out of my 240 and once it's out we're going to completely disassemble it to try to figure out what went wrong and get a game plan together for rebuilding it what we can reuse what needs fixed what needs replaced it's going to be a big day i'm pretty excited thanks to kates for sponsoring today's video it's april which means it's officially tax season and if there's one thing i love more than legs it's a big refund from uncle sam whoever that is hi mr uncle jerry um we we can't write off bird food as a business expense but i'm training dave to be a show bird okay show bird business is booming right now if you haven't noticed also there's um there's nothing we can do about this this cabo road trip so it looks like you're only getting a small refund this year a small refund i said give me a second here oh do i wish i had had the yank out if only i wasn't one of the two out of three guys to experience some sort of male pattern baldness by the time i was 35 i should have used keys they make it easy by having hair loss consultations online with real doctors then they'll ship you your hair loss medication directly to your door every three months when you're ready to start your treatment head on over to keeps.com moneypet to get 50 off your first order mr uncle jerry hi it looks like there was actually a mistake you're gonna actually owe taxes this year mr uncle jerry get in the car dave we gotta get out of here are you there mr uncle jerry all right so we've been over how to pull an engine on this show but in case you missed that one we'll recap real quick it's really not that hard and it's pretty similar for all engines the first thing i'm gonna do is drain all my fluids oil's already drained so we got coolant trans fluid fuel power steering fluid that kind of thing then i'll start disconnecting the big stuff like drive shaft exhaust to anything else that connects the engine to the car and then once all that's done it's pretty much time to hook the crane to the engine pop off the engine and trans mounts and pick this thing out of here now it is a pretty long engine and trans setup and i'm going to try to get them out together the engine bay is not that long there is a chance we might struggle with this a little bit but that's okay that's how this stuff goes and there's really only one way to find out and that's to get into it so i say we get cracking forgot to mention i'm also going to take off the hood to give me a little bit more room to get this thing in and out and i'm going to take off at least the front bumper just to give me a little more access to some of this front stuff and so i don't damage it kind of want to keep it in as good a shape as it's in might make a mess here but you know you got to crack a few eggs to make an omelet now i'm going to do my best i'm not gonna spill a drop i thought that might happen i should have probably pulled that crossmember but hey oh my god it's still just hitting it didn't spill a drop the way she goes boys all right now it's time to drain the transmission fluid uh and i think we're gonna have a little better luck keeping this clean than the coolant so it's always a good idea when you crack a drain plug like on a transmission to also crack the fill plug before you actually drain the fluid but that just proves that you can open it and actually refill it clean yeah boy gee whiz all right now with the drive shaft out and the transmission drained uh we'll disconnect the down pipe from the rest of the exhaust all right we got our down pipe disconnected got the exhaust supported back to the top i guess i should have known that was coming and a down pipe all right now we've got most of the spaghetti disconnected from the engine as you do just a couple last odds and ends like removing the shifter and then it's time to pull this thing out ball and allens are really handy a lot of times allens can be hard to get to straight on which you kind of need to with an allen but not with a ball end you can go as crooked as that which is pretty nice the way that's supposed to go all right that's out i figured we'd get that out of the way just to give me a little bit more room up on the front of the engine because you know this thing is pretty long and i'm a little bit worried about my harmonic balancer running into where the radiator was okay everything is out of the way and the engine's ready to come out so we've got the crane attached eddie's down there manning the jack and while this is not that big of a deal and it's definitely something you can do it is kind of dangerous i mean we're working with probably six or seven hundred pounds here so you don't want to drop that on your face so eddie watch your face all right now what we need to do is take some stuff off this thing gotta get all the turbo stuff off get the intake off all the accessories alternator power steering okay now we're about to take off the clutch and flywheel and i think i'm going to be reusing the clutch and flywheel so it's kind of important how you take this off you need to make sure you take the pressure plate off evenly so i'm just going to crack all these bolts loose in a star pattern and then keep going until they're fully loose all right there's a pressure plate and clutch disc looks decent no hot spots looks like some reusable stuff here time to take the flywheel off uh it's just six bolts i'm gonna take them off in a star pattern as you do yeah flywheel nice nismo nice what you got there oh we got a pulley puller these arms grab the back of the pulley and this drives into the bolt once these arms are behind the back of the pulley and i drive this in it'll pull the pulley off it's pretty simple there she goes harmonic balancer okay threw some spark plugs back in to keep some water out of the holes and now this thing's pretty much ready to clean without further ado let's shine this thing up all right that about does it much cleaner much more handleable drag this thing back inside and get a workspace set up for taking it apart before we actually get this apart we got to talk about some things because i want to figure out what went wrong in the first place to cause my bearing to spin and in my mind there's basically two options improper bearing clearance so we will check the bearing clearance on the other cylinders just to get an idea of you know what kind of ballpark cylinder six would have been the other option is improper lubrication so the biggest issue with the arby's oiling system is that if you're driving hard at sustained high rpms uh these can pump basically all the oil from the sump up into the head and then it gets stuck there because it doesn't drain back down to the sump well enough and then you basically have no oil in your sump your oil pump's picking nothing up and your bearings don't get the lube they need and things like bearings spinning happen so that is a known issue on the rb and there's a handful of things that you have to do to fix that issue of filling the head with oil and starving your bearings so as i take this thing apart we'll be looking for the fixes to that issue i guess i haven't mentioned this enough but especially at this point once you start taking all this stuff apart and you intend to eventually put it back together you got to be organized i've been bagging everything up in ziploc bags and just labeling every bag so should go together pretty easy all right so i wasn't having any valve train issues so for now i'm going to take the head off loaded and just leave it alone which is actually kind of convenient the rb i can put a crescent wrench on my cam and turn this thing and it will let me access all the head bolts and take the head off with the cams in so that's kind of convenient but this has arp head studs in it which is great those are real strong and good for making power but the nuts on them are bigger than the stock head bolts so i can't fit the socket pass well just past these two spots on the ends of the cams so that means i gotta take the cams off all right now that we got both cams out of the way we can actually get to our head bolts or rather our head studs and nuts there's a head a long one at that well you know at first glance looking at what i can see it doesn't look as bad as it seemed to look on the camera i mean i see some striping here but it doesn't look as bad as i really was expecting to see what's more is if we do have to bore these cylinders because of the wear in them which i think we're going to have to that means i'm going to have to step up in piston size so currently the board is 86.5 millimeters so i'd have to step up to the next server size which is 87 millimeters so this head gasket is an 87 millimeter hole that's the standard head gasket so if i have to bore up the piston i'm also going to have to get a bigger hole head gasket 88 millimeter so we're about to take off the oil pump this is an upgraded oil pump and uh one of the other oiling issues that rbs have is that the drive for the oil pump mates up with the crankshaft in a way that isn't super good yeah so this here is a spline drive where normally this would be all round with just two flats that made up with two flats in here which isn't that great these splines are a lot stronger and a lot better for beating on all right now we've got the water pump the oil pump and the rear main cap off i'm going to pull out the studs then i'm going to flip this thing around we'll remove our connecting bolt hardware and drop the pistons and connecting rods out so this is the one that the bearing spun in you can see how much wear there is there where there should be none and the crank journal looks pretty banged up too which is a problem because like i said before i'm pretty sure this crank's been machined down before i don't think we're going to be able to reuse the crank which is sad so this is our piston and our connecting rod and our wrist pin in here that connects the two then we've got our rings the top ring is our compression ring the second ring is for scraping oil and directing it through your oil control ring so the scraper ring directs it down through these grooves and then it allows it to come inside the piston through these holes and dump back down to the sump but when i get to cylinder number five what i'm going to do is pull off the cap and i'm going to put some of this handy stuff in there this is plasti gauge and it's a fairly rudimentary way to check bearing clearance and i just want to know what kind of bearing clearance this engine is running just so i know if that was potentially the issue on number six it's not really necessary i'm just curious so the idea is that you put this little piece of plastic gauge in between your bearing and your crank journal and then you install your rod cap and bearing like normal and when you do that and tighten it down to your standard torque values this little piece of wax is squished and then you take the cap back off once it's squished and you compare it to these markings that are included in the packaging and depending on how much it's squished out uh that correlates to an amount of bearing clearance okay let's see what we got here what would you look at that that's dead nuts on 20 thousandths so that's good bearing clearance on cylinder 5 is good which makes me feel better about the bearing clearance on cylinder 6 before it's spun so that points me in the direction of an oiling issue making number 6 spin so one of the things that needs to be done is a series of restrictors need to be added to the head to restrict the flow of oil to the head now these have restrictors in them from the factory but the aftermarket move to stop these issues from happening is to actually block off one of these feeds and use an even smaller restrictor in one of the other positions these do appear to be the factory restrictors so that's a little bit of a problem that does point me in the direction of the head having filled up with oil and starved cylinder number six is bearing so i'm gonna have to get some new restrictors luckily that's no big deal not the worst i mean these are race bearings which do uh wear faster than standard oem bearings so it's definitely not uncommon to see that kind of stuff but this engine was only built to my knowledge about two or three thousand miles ago so it's not great now we can see a little heat leaking out of this uh crank journal you can see a little bluing on either side of the journal itself so kind of interested to see what this bearing looks like or if that's from the past so i'm assuming this doesn't look any worse than the rest i'm assuming that this heat whatever happened to this crank probably another spun bearing that forced the previous owner to machine the journals down which again is the reason i'm not going to be able to reuse this crank i guess that heat was from her past life about the same as the rest the last one the first one oh well you're always gonna drop one all right we've got all our pistons and rods out which is cool now we're gonna flip this thing over and just take a gander at our cylinder bores and be honest with ourselves all right so the cylinder wear doesn't look good i'm gonna need to measure it to be sure but i'm pretty sure that these cylinders are going to need board out all right so now it's time to take off our main caps which is this big hog right here and this is what keeps the crank in place and keeps it spinning nice and true so there's going to be bearings under these caps kind of very similar to our rods here and then there's also a thrust bearing to keep it from going back and forth too much so i'll pop these puppies off all right here's our main cap girdly boy and then you can see our thrust bearing in here which uh this determines the end play of the crank or how much it can smack back and forth you don't want much but there should be a touch let's take a look at some of these main bearings well that doesn't look hot i mean it kind of looks like it did get hot it doesn't look good jesus i mean that looks like a problem waiting to happen so i guess it's a good thing that uh cylinder six went and man oh man when you look at that this bearing has just a straight up groove cut in it i don't think that's supposed to be there okay that's all the caps now we can yank the crank out all right so i'm going to yank the oil squirters out of here and then that'll pretty much be a empty block and then from there to verify that this block is going to be usable is measure these bearing journals all right so we're ready to measure our crank journals now to do that we need to take some very specific and accurate measurements so i've got some stuff set up and we're going to talk a little bit about it now first the first most important thing that you need for this is like the factory service manual so you know what measurements you're looking for so i have that i found it online that's great so i've got my specs written down right here so basically the upper limit of what's acceptable in terms of our measurement on the crank journals is 2.3098 inches that's all the way to the 10 thousandths of an inch so what we need to do is basically set this micrometer up to 2.3098 and then we'll take this bore gauge and set that up off of this then once we have the bore gauge set up to this measurement we can take the bore gauge over to our bores engage them all right so we're just going to start at this end because this is where i am this is the back of the engine this is position number seven i've got all my you know stuff written down so i'm ready to write down my measurements i guess i could bring that notepad over here that'd be cool uh but let's see what number one looks like basically what we're doing here is looking for the lowest number that we ever hit before we start going back to big so we are two ten thousands under our ultimate spec that's good it's in spec not by a whole lot but it is in spec position seven minus point zero zero zero two okay and so then that's from this number 2.3098 so we've got a 2.3096 bore right there which is close to being out of spec but it's in spec so that's cool with me let's keep going see if we find one that's not looking so hot ooh six ten all right so we'll call that six ten thousands under our spec two ten thousands smaller than spec okay so i just measured six of my seven uh main cap journals and they all came in within specs so that's great uh but the trouble is that my main caps are obviously one big piece here and i can't get to the center one with my board gauge from either end it'd be one thing if they were individual but as one i really can't measure that center one so i'm going to assume based on the rest of them that the center one's probably all right too so i'm going to proceed like this is a usable block but when this does end up at a machine shop i'll have him check it just to make sure now i'm going to flip this thing around and we're going to check the top of the block for warpage real quick ghost what a boat anchor these things are heavy okay so basically what we're talking about here is if there's any warpage to the top of this surface this is the top of the block so we do want this to be super straight and flat so in terms of flatness at the top of the deck there is a spec for that so the limit is point one millimeter so a tenth of a millimeters all right so to do this you want to make sure the top of your block is very clean and free of gasket material or debris so i'm just gonna put my straight edge on top of this unit in a few different ways and try to put my feeler gauge at a four thousandths of an inch or 0.102 of a millimeter if i can slip that under anywhere then we might be warped okay well it doesn't look like we have much warpage and well by golly that's cool so i think the block is gonna be reusable i still gotta find a machine shop but that is now my top priority so i'm gonna send this thing off to it order a bunch of parts as heartbreaking as this has been i've kind of wanted to tear into this thing for a long time so i hope you guys learned something today hanging out with us uh and if you liked what you saw make sure you subscribe to the channel and you can go follow me on instagram zack job and you can follow at donut media i'll see you guys next wednesday hey guys what's up i got some big news and it's right here on my head introducing the first official donut beanie only available at donutmedia.com it comes in two awesome colors vibrant orange for those who want to stand out during the day and navy blue for those who want to blend in at the night and the best thing about a beanie no matter who you are it can help highlight your personality whether you're intimidating at first but once you get to know you you're a really nice person or if you're someone who always has that band that your friends never heard of and you're shocked and you make them listen to them right away just like sort of an old poetic soul kind of type an actor slash writer slash director slash musician i own an acoustic guitar the donut beanie is the perfect hat for any occasion or any type of person get yours at donutmedia.com todayso we recently did some inspection on my rb25 powered s14 to find that the rod bearing on cylinder number six had spun so today we're going to pull the engine out of my 240 and once it's out we're going to completely disassemble it to try to figure out what went wrong and get a game plan together for rebuilding it what we can reuse what needs fixed what needs replaced it's going to be a big day i'm pretty excited thanks to kates for sponsoring today's video it's april which means it's officially tax season and if there's one thing i love more than legs it's a big refund from uncle sam whoever that is hi mr uncle jerry um we we can't write off bird food as a business expense but i'm training dave to be a show bird okay show bird business is booming right now if you haven't noticed also there's um there's nothing we can do about this this cabo road trip so it looks like you're only getting a small refund this year a small refund i said give me a second here oh do i wish i had had the yank out if only i wasn't one of the two out of three guys to experience some sort of male pattern baldness by the time i was 35 i should have used keys they make it easy by having hair loss consultations online with real doctors then they'll ship you your hair loss medication directly to your door every three months when you're ready to start your treatment head on over to keeps.com moneypet to get 50 off your first order mr uncle jerry hi it looks like there was actually a mistake you're gonna actually owe taxes this year mr uncle jerry get in the car dave we gotta get out of here are you there mr uncle jerry all right so we've been over how to pull an engine on this show but in case you missed that one we'll recap real quick it's really not that hard and it's pretty similar for all engines the first thing i'm gonna do is drain all my fluids oil's already drained so we got coolant trans fluid fuel power steering fluid that kind of thing then i'll start disconnecting the big stuff like drive shaft exhaust to anything else that connects the engine to the car and then once all that's done it's pretty much time to hook the crane to the engine pop off the engine and trans mounts and pick this thing out of here now it is a pretty long engine and trans setup and i'm going to try to get them out together the engine bay is not that long there is a chance we might struggle with this a little bit but that's okay that's how this stuff goes and there's really only one way to find out and that's to get into it so i say we get cracking forgot to mention i'm also going to take off the hood to give me a little bit more room to get this thing in and out and i'm going to take off at least the front bumper just to give me a little more access to some of this front stuff and so i don't damage it kind of want to keep it in as good a shape as it's in might make a mess here but you know you got to crack a few eggs to make an omelet now i'm going to do my best i'm not gonna spill a drop i thought that might happen i should have probably pulled that crossmember but hey oh my god it's still just hitting it didn't spill a drop the way she goes boys all right now it's time to drain the transmission fluid uh and i think we're gonna have a little better luck keeping this clean than the coolant so it's always a good idea when you crack a drain plug like on a transmission to also crack the fill plug before you actually drain the fluid but that just proves that you can open it and actually refill it clean yeah boy gee whiz all right now with the drive shaft out and the transmission drained uh we'll disconnect the down pipe from the rest of the exhaust all right we got our down pipe disconnected got the exhaust supported back to the top i guess i should have known that was coming and a down pipe all right now we've got most of the spaghetti disconnected from the engine as you do just a couple last odds and ends like removing the shifter and then it's time to pull this thing out ball and allens are really handy a lot of times allens can be hard to get to straight on which you kind of need to with an allen but not with a ball end you can go as crooked as that which is pretty nice the way that's supposed to go all right that's out i figured we'd get that out of the way just to give me a little bit more room up on the front of the engine because you know this thing is pretty long and i'm a little bit worried about my harmonic balancer running into where the radiator was okay everything is out of the way and the engine's ready to come out so we've got the crane attached eddie's down there manning the jack and while this is not that big of a deal and it's definitely something you can do it is kind of dangerous i mean we're working with probably six or seven hundred pounds here so you don't want to drop that on your face so eddie watch your face all right now what we need to do is take some stuff off this thing gotta get all the turbo stuff off get the intake off all the accessories alternator power steering okay now we're about to take off the clutch and flywheel and i think i'm going to be reusing the clutch and flywheel so it's kind of important how you take this off you need to make sure you take the pressure plate off evenly so i'm just going to crack all these bolts loose in a star pattern and then keep going until they're fully loose all right there's a pressure plate and clutch disc looks decent no hot spots looks like some reusable stuff here time to take the flywheel off uh it's just six bolts i'm gonna take them off in a star pattern as you do yeah flywheel nice nismo nice what you got there oh we got a pulley puller these arms grab the back of the pulley and this drives into the bolt once these arms are behind the back of the pulley and i drive this in it'll pull the pulley off it's pretty simple there she goes harmonic balancer okay threw some spark plugs back in to keep some water out of the holes and now this thing's pretty much ready to clean without further ado let's shine this thing up all right that about does it much cleaner much more handleable drag this thing back inside and get a workspace set up for taking it apart before we actually get this apart we got to talk about some things because i want to figure out what went wrong in the first place to cause my bearing to spin and in my mind there's basically two options improper bearing clearance so we will check the bearing clearance on the other cylinders just to get an idea of you know what kind of ballpark cylinder six would have been the other option is improper lubrication so the biggest issue with the arby's oiling system is that if you're driving hard at sustained high rpms uh these can pump basically all the oil from the sump up into the head and then it gets stuck there because it doesn't drain back down to the sump well enough and then you basically have no oil in your sump your oil pump's picking nothing up and your bearings don't get the lube they need and things like bearings spinning happen so that is a known issue on the rb and there's a handful of things that you have to do to fix that issue of filling the head with oil and starving your bearings so as i take this thing apart we'll be looking for the fixes to that issue i guess i haven't mentioned this enough but especially at this point once you start taking all this stuff apart and you intend to eventually put it back together you got to be organized i've been bagging everything up in ziploc bags and just labeling every bag so should go together pretty easy all right so i wasn't having any valve train issues so for now i'm going to take the head off loaded and just leave it alone which is actually kind of convenient the rb i can put a crescent wrench on my cam and turn this thing and it will let me access all the head bolts and take the head off with the cams in so that's kind of convenient but this has arp head studs in it which is great those are real strong and good for making power but the nuts on them are bigger than the stock head bolts so i can't fit the socket pass well just past these two spots on the ends of the cams so that means i gotta take the cams off all right now that we got both cams out of the way we can actually get to our head bolts or rather our head studs and nuts there's a head a long one at that well you know at first glance looking at what i can see it doesn't look as bad as it seemed to look on the camera i mean i see some striping here but it doesn't look as bad as i really was expecting to see what's more is if we do have to bore these cylinders because of the wear in them which i think we're going to have to that means i'm going to have to step up in piston size so currently the board is 86.5 millimeters so i'd have to step up to the next server size which is 87 millimeters so this head gasket is an 87 millimeter hole that's the standard head gasket so if i have to bore up the piston i'm also going to have to get a bigger hole head gasket 88 millimeter so we're about to take off the oil pump this is an upgraded oil pump and uh one of the other oiling issues that rbs have is that the drive for the oil pump mates up with the crankshaft in a way that isn't super good yeah so this here is a spline drive where normally this would be all round with just two flats that made up with two flats in here which isn't that great these splines are a lot stronger and a lot better for beating on all right now we've got the water pump the oil pump and the rear main cap off i'm going to pull out the studs then i'm going to flip this thing around we'll remove our connecting bolt hardware and drop the pistons and connecting rods out so this is the one that the bearing spun in you can see how much wear there is there where there should be none and the crank journal looks pretty banged up too which is a problem because like i said before i'm pretty sure this crank's been machined down before i don't think we're going to be able to reuse the crank which is sad so this is our piston and our connecting rod and our wrist pin in here that connects the two then we've got our rings the top ring is our compression ring the second ring is for scraping oil and directing it through your oil control ring so the scraper ring directs it down through these grooves and then it allows it to come inside the piston through these holes and dump back down to the sump but when i get to cylinder number five what i'm going to do is pull off the cap and i'm going to put some of this handy stuff in there this is plasti gauge and it's a fairly rudimentary way to check bearing clearance and i just want to know what kind of bearing clearance this engine is running just so i know if that was potentially the issue on number six it's not really necessary i'm just curious so the idea is that you put this little piece of plastic gauge in between your bearing and your crank journal and then you install your rod cap and bearing like normal and when you do that and tighten it down to your standard torque values this little piece of wax is squished and then you take the cap back off once it's squished and you compare it to these markings that are included in the packaging and depending on how much it's squished out uh that correlates to an amount of bearing clearance okay let's see what we got here what would you look at that that's dead nuts on 20 thousandths so that's good bearing clearance on cylinder 5 is good which makes me feel better about the bearing clearance on cylinder 6 before it's spun so that points me in the direction of an oiling issue making number 6 spin so one of the things that needs to be done is a series of restrictors need to be added to the head to restrict the flow of oil to the head now these have restrictors in them from the factory but the aftermarket move to stop these issues from happening is to actually block off one of these feeds and use an even smaller restrictor in one of the other positions these do appear to be the factory restrictors so that's a little bit of a problem that does point me in the direction of the head having filled up with oil and starved cylinder number six is bearing so i'm gonna have to get some new restrictors luckily that's no big deal not the worst i mean these are race bearings which do uh wear faster than standard oem bearings so it's definitely not uncommon to see that kind of stuff but this engine was only built to my knowledge about two or three thousand miles ago so it's not great now we can see a little heat leaking out of this uh crank journal you can see a little bluing on either side of the journal itself so kind of interested to see what this bearing looks like or if that's from the past so i'm assuming this doesn't look any worse than the rest i'm assuming that this heat whatever happened to this crank probably another spun bearing that forced the previous owner to machine the journals down which again is the reason i'm not going to be able to reuse this crank i guess that heat was from her past life about the same as the rest the last one the first one oh well you're always gonna drop one all right we've got all our pistons and rods out which is cool now we're gonna flip this thing over and just take a gander at our cylinder bores and be honest with ourselves all right so the cylinder wear doesn't look good i'm gonna need to measure it to be sure but i'm pretty sure that these cylinders are going to need board out all right so now it's time to take off our main caps which is this big hog right here and this is what keeps the crank in place and keeps it spinning nice and true so there's going to be bearings under these caps kind of very similar to our rods here and then there's also a thrust bearing to keep it from going back and forth too much so i'll pop these puppies off all right here's our main cap girdly boy and then you can see our thrust bearing in here which uh this determines the end play of the crank or how much it can smack back and forth you don't want much but there should be a touch let's take a look at some of these main bearings well that doesn't look hot i mean it kind of looks like it did get hot it doesn't look good jesus i mean that looks like a problem waiting to happen so i guess it's a good thing that uh cylinder six went and man oh man when you look at that this bearing has just a straight up groove cut in it i don't think that's supposed to be there okay that's all the caps now we can yank the crank out all right so i'm going to yank the oil squirters out of here and then that'll pretty much be a empty block and then from there to verify that this block is going to be usable is measure these bearing journals all right so we're ready to measure our crank journals now to do that we need to take some very specific and accurate measurements so i've got some stuff set up and we're going to talk a little bit about it now first the first most important thing that you need for this is like the factory service manual so you know what measurements you're looking for so i have that i found it online that's great so i've got my specs written down right here so basically the upper limit of what's acceptable in terms of our measurement on the crank journals is 2.3098 inches that's all the way to the 10 thousandths of an inch so what we need to do is basically set this micrometer up to 2.3098 and then we'll take this bore gauge and set that up off of this then once we have the bore gauge set up to this measurement we can take the bore gauge over to our bores engage them all right so we're just going to start at this end because this is where i am this is the back of the engine this is position number seven i've got all my you know stuff written down so i'm ready to write down my measurements i guess i could bring that notepad over here that'd be cool uh but let's see what number one looks like basically what we're doing here is looking for the lowest number that we ever hit before we start going back to big so we are two ten thousands under our ultimate spec that's good it's in spec not by a whole lot but it is in spec position seven minus point zero zero zero two okay and so then that's from this number 2.3098 so we've got a 2.3096 bore right there which is close to being out of spec but it's in spec so that's cool with me let's keep going see if we find one that's not looking so hot ooh six ten all right so we'll call that six ten thousands under our spec two ten thousands smaller than spec okay so i just measured six of my seven uh main cap journals and they all came in within specs so that's great uh but the trouble is that my main caps are obviously one big piece here and i can't get to the center one with my board gauge from either end it'd be one thing if they were individual but as one i really can't measure that center one so i'm going to assume based on the rest of them that the center one's probably all right too so i'm going to proceed like this is a usable block but when this does end up at a machine shop i'll have him check it just to make sure now i'm going to flip this thing around and we're going to check the top of the block for warpage real quick ghost what a boat anchor these things are heavy okay so basically what we're talking about here is if there's any warpage to the top of this surface this is the top of the block so we do want this to be super straight and flat so in terms of flatness at the top of the deck there is a spec for that so the limit is point one millimeter so a tenth of a millimeters all right so to do this you want to make sure the top of your block is very clean and free of gasket material or debris so i'm just gonna put my straight edge on top of this unit in a few different ways and try to put my feeler gauge at a four thousandths of an inch or 0.102 of a millimeter if i can slip that under anywhere then we might be warped okay well it doesn't look like we have much warpage and well by golly that's cool so i think the block is gonna be reusable i still gotta find a machine shop but that is now my top priority so i'm gonna send this thing off to it order a bunch of parts as heartbreaking as this has been i've kind of wanted to tear into this thing for a long time so i hope you guys learned something today hanging out with us uh and if you liked what you saw make sure you subscribe to the channel and you can go follow me on instagram zack job and you can follow at donut media i'll see you guys 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