The Importance of Proper Cooling System Maintenance: A Guide to Understanding Distilled and Deionized Water
Growth can occur even when water is not as obviously present, such as tap water or drinking water. However, growth could still occur with distilled or deionized water, which may seem counterintuitive given its purification process. The issue lies in the fact that distilled water lacks ions, which are essential for many bodily functions and processes.
When water is stripped of its ions during the distilling process or deionization process, it can seek to replenish them by attacking metal surfaces in the cooling system. Most companies do not use aluminum for their radiators or blocks, so this is not typically a problem. However, if nickel plating is of poor quality, the distilled water may start corroding and flaking off. This can lead to serious issues with the cooling system's performance and longevity.
In some countries, distilled water must be shipped in from other locations due to its high cost. In these cases, adding a few drops of anti-corrosive agents like PT Nuke can help prevent growth and corrosion in the cooling system. These additives are designed to be used in conjunction with concentrated coolant solutions, which typically require a 3:1 ratio of water to concentrate.
Concentrate solutions are specifically formulated to provide everything needed for optimal cooling system performance. They often contain anti-corrosives, anti-growth inhibitors, and lubricants to keep pumps running smoothly. The longevity of these solutions can vary depending on the type of metals used in the system, but they tend to last up to 2 years before needing replacement.
In some cases, nanofluids may be preferred over traditional coolant solutions due to their improved cooling properties. Nanoparticles in the fluid help transfer heat away from the metal surfaces, creating a more efficient cooling system. One benefit of nanofluids is that they provide a unique, opaque color that can enhance the appearance of the cooling system.
However, nanofluids do have some drawbacks. When the system is turned off and sits for an extended period, the color can start to fade, causing it to appear thinner and less vibrant when started again. This effect is temporary and harmless, as the nanoparticles remix with the fluid once the pump begins moving.
One important consideration when using nanofluids is that they may not be compatible with certain types of tubing, such as polyglycol (PG) or acrylic tubing. There have been reports of issues between ethylene glycol-based solutions and these materials, so it's essential to choose a coolant solution that meets these requirements.
The video provided by the author offers in-depth information on the importance of using proper cooling system maintenance techniques. Despite its length and potential for repetition, the content is valuable for those seeking to understand the intricacies of their cooling systems. The author encourages viewers to share their thoughts, questions, and feedback through Twitter, with the hashtag @J2Cense.
By following these guidelines and understanding the properties and benefits of distilled, deionized, and nanofluid-based coolant solutions, individuals can create a more efficient and effective cooling system for their computers or other electronic devices. Remember to always choose a reputable supplier for your coolant solution, as the quality of the product can significantly impact its performance and longevity.
"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enall right so this is the third time I've done this video only because I was getting super long- winded when I talk about water cooling I get very passionate about it and I start to talk about it like Barnacles talks about 3D printing where it's like blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah that's actually not my impression of Jerry that's my impression of me so don't don't get all mad at me say I'm making fun of Jerry it's not true it's not true at all today's video is brought to you by linda.com slj the online learning platform where you can learn about pretty much any subject you want at your own rate maybe you want to be a gaming programmer and you want to learn from some of the leading experts in the world about how to design games well that's what linda.com J is offering you can go up there and check out online courses and thousands of videos about how to do practically anything some of the courses I recommend just based on my own interests would be automotive repair photography videography editing and you guys can pretty much brush up on any topic you want in the coolest thing is you can do it completely at your own pace so what are you waiting for head on over to linda.com slj for your free 10-day trial that's l y nda.com sjy make sure you use that link that way they know that I'm the one that sent you okay the goal of today's video is not to pick the parts for you it's to arm you with the knowledge you need to pick the parts yourself give a Mana fish he eats for a day teach a man to fish well you know the rest of the story and if you don't well then you better start learning how to fish right now so you want to do a water cooling Loop and you've spent time looking around the forums and on the websites and at the end of the day you're just pulling your hair out and you completely discombobulated cuz you're like this is hard I finally built my computer and this is hard I can't there's more parts than I know what to do it and it doesn't make sense trust me that's how I was when I was learning how to do all of this and it's easy Once you learn what stuff means so that's the point of today's video and we're going to start with chapter one that we're going to start right with the basics because sometimes people want to move right into the advanced stuff before they even understand the simple stuff so that's what we're going to focus on today now at the very least here's a list of parts you're going to need to connect all of your parts in your custom Loop you need a block a pump a radiator optionally a reservoir you need tubing fans coolant and fittings that's what you need that doesn't get any more basic than that we're done all right guys thanks for watching today's video and okay I'm just kidding I'm just kidding we'll go ahead and talk about each one of those and give you kind of a high level description of what those parts mean and hopefully then when you start looking through your spec sheets and stuff when you're shopping on websites you can understand what it is you're looking at they connect to a part grab the Heat and send it off into La La Land through the cooling Loop to be exhausted into the atmosphere and heat up your room and then go into your lungs and out your ass when you fart or whatever else so that's kind of like the circle of life when it comes to cooling your PC at the end of the day you fart the heat I've got a full metal block over here by alphacool with a brass top and a copper base and then I've got over here a nickel plated copper base block from EK water blocks a Supremacy block with a Plexi see-through top now one thing I want to get really clear really quickly it doesn't matter if it's copper it doesn't matter if it's nickel they're going to cool virtually identically the same even finding a difference of 1° C between nickel plated and bare copper is usually accounted for in margin of error so nickel plating is more of an Aesthetics thing but it doesn't matter if it's a plastic top or a metal top the top makes no difference to the cooling of the block it all happens on the base which is where the fins are and that is where the cooling is going to take place so just pick the one you think looks cool and has good reviews radiators this is always a fun one this tends to get people really all up in arms because they don't know what it means all right there's three major stats you need to know when it comes to radiator stat number one you've got the length measured in fans so you would have a 120 or a 240 or a 360 or a 480 etc etc so that's just usually uh telling you how many fans of what size you could fit on there so obviously a 120 radiator is a 120 mm fan the 240 two of them 360 three of them etc etc if it 140 mm fan then it would be A40 a 280 a 420 etc etc the other stat you need to know is about the radiator thickness the smallest you'll pretty much find is a 30 mm which I'm holding right here then they tend to go up in 15 mm increments where they're going to go from 30 to 45 to 60 and then they tend to jump to 80 mm which is the monster rad found uh pretty much I think the only company offering monster RADS is Alpha cool it's like a 80 mm thick thick Beast it's crazy and then the third one is the one that tends to really catch people off guard and this is what they don't know what to choose and that is fpi which stands for Fins per inch it's the number of fins that is going to be present in 1 in of fins that's also referred to as fin density so fpi or fin density is referring to the same thing so I've got two radiators right here both are the same thickness 30 MS both are 120 mm radiators but they both are very different in that this one here from alpha cool is a low fin density radiator at about 10 fpi whereas this one over here from Hardware Labs has about twice the fin density in it plus it has a a split fin design now these two radiators are also going to have different requirements when it comes to the fans for them a lower fpi radiator can get away with a lower static pressure fan running at lower RPMs while sacrificing a little bit of the cooling efficiency and maximum TDP wattage or you know wattage that could be dissipated in this radiator this guy over here will typically act like a thicker radiator by adding more fins in the same area but at the sacrifice of Acoustics where you'll have to typically run a higher RPM static pressure fan in order to push the air through this many fins having this many fins also means a little bit more turbulence a little bit more resistance and that of course is what you're actually hearing as the air goes through the radiator not the fan you're hearing the air being pushed by the fan bouncing off all of these fins so you can get more cooling out of a smaller radiator at the sacrifice of Acoustics now in terms of what size radiator I recommend well I recommend a 120 for every part that you're cooling so if you're cooling a CPU and a GPU a 240 would be the minimum and I recommend that for stock speeds the moment you start overclocking you are going to oversaturate that radiator's maximum TDP that it can dissipate and you are going to start getting heat soaked where the parts get hotter and hotter over time so I recommend if you're going to overclock a 240 for every part that you've got in the system so if you're going to overclock your CPU and you're going to overclock your GPU then you're going to need a 240 for each one for a total of 480 mm it doesn't have to be a 480 mil Rad but it does need to be a total of 480 mm that's the formula I use at a bare minimum I would go with as much radiator space as you can fit or Surface area that you can fit in your case rather have more cooling than necessary than not enough trust me GPU blocks we've got a 980 TI sitting right here with a full cover block on it now people always ask me what does full cover mean full cover doesn't mean it goes to the end of the card that's not what full cover means full coverage means the block is contacting all all of the parts on the card that generate heat that namely being the GPU core the vrm or power delivery system and the RAM chips and then a back plate is mostly Aesthetics and also offers some rigidity but at the sacrifice of more weight a full cover card is going to be a lot heavier than say just a universal core block that you can put on the GPU but this thing here will give you maximum overclocking it'll give you maximum Cooling and it's going to also add a lot of heat into your Loop so that's why you need to make sure you have more radiator than you need than or at least that you think you need that way you have plenty now some of the blocks will go to the end of the C some like this one won't it's really going to be up to the manufacturer and how they make them look uh with EK all of the Plexi blocks are shorter and all of the acetol blocks like I have on my Titans behind me are the length of the card why they did it that way I have no idea but this is going to be a little bit lighter than the blocks that you would find right now uh in Skunk Works so that's something to keep in mind too this is like twice the weight of what the graphics card used to be maybe not twice but pretty damn close Okay so fittings here's one that people tend to really over complicate fittings for soft tubing all you've got to do is match the numbers so if you are using a 3/8 by 5/8 soft tube then you want compression fittings that are 38 X 5/8 guess what they match the Barb is going to go onto the tube the collar is going to slide over you're going to tighten it down and you're going to have a good day because typically it won't leak you're gonna have a bad day if you don't match those or you get a collar that's too big and it doesn't actually clamp down but as long as the numbers match now Euro sizing some Euro websites they deal with the millimeters here in the United States we still deal with the standard system where you've got you know 38 5/8 half in 3/4 inch all that sort of stuff so if you're on a European site don't worry typically the they'll convert it back to the way everyone else in the world does it so it's just the US guys that have to worry about that when it comes two barbs all you've got to do is match the Barb size to the inner diameter measurement of the tube so if you've got a/ in inner diameter tube then you want a/ inch Barb that's it there you go now the other thing people get really confused about is the threading of the actual fitting itself I've had people email me asking why people run half inch inner diameter fittings when the hole is only a/ qu inch big it's because they see G quarter thread and they think that means that the hole is only a/4 in big G4 thread is the thread size not the hole size the hole is much bigger than the inner diameter of the fitting and the tubing I promise you that G14 thread is also the only thread I've ever used I've never used g38 of never needed to use it in fact I got sent it one time and it was it was like a black sheep it just got banished to the closet and it it didn't even have a purpose nobody uses that just G1 quarter thread all day long now fittings for rigid tubing uh it's all pretty much measured in millimeters and they tend to always be a 10 mm inner diameter but but that doesn't matter Nothing Else Matters with rigid tubing except the outer diameter of the tube and you'll typically find 10x 12 10x13 and 10x 16 those are like the two sizes that you will typic or three sizes you'll typically find bits power seems to kind of have have all the 12 mm stuff going on with the uh Crystal link 13 mm the most common that you're going to find and then 16 mm making it making it way into the scene with being a thicker tube that people are liking to see nice big fat tubes but all fittings for rigid tubing are compression that's the only way it can hold together you tighten the collar down the O-ring expands or gets squished out and it pushes against the actual tube and it's not going to pull out or go anywhere so if you're going to be using a 13 mm outer diameter rigid tube then you want a 13 mm compression fitting for rigid tubing it's really simple it's not any more difficult than that so don't over complicate it all right fellas let's go ahead and talk about our tube all right I'm going to keep it clean I'm going to keep it I want at least one video that's clean just one there could be so many in Windows in this video I mean it's just so hard do you see what I mean this sucks there's another one the jokes just keep pulling them right out of my ass we were kind of on a roll there for a moment weren't we so when it comes to tubing you've got a few different types of tubing you have got soft tubing and hard tubing and ladies you know which one you prefer okay I promise I promise I stop I'll stop I'll stop it now soft tubing is very flexible it tends to be clear usually but now you have black and you have white and you are starting to get uh different colors of soft tubing that are being introduced onto the market but soft tubing materials tend to vary depending on the actual appearance of the tube so white and black and all of that are going to be usually a different type of material but to keep in mind is clear soft tubing will tend to overtime cloud and leech plasticizer which depending on the quality of the tube that you use if enough plasticizer gets leeched it could get stuck in the tiny microfins found inside GPU blocks and CPU blocks and could cause you you know a bad day so you would definitely want to stay away from the plumbing section at Home Depot using the soft PVC or soft vinyl tubing because that stuff I've never seen any tubing leech like vinyl trust me it is terrible so taigon tends to be the the material that a lot of people go towards now rigid tubing you're going to have three major materials usually you're going to have a PG which is much more uh impact resistant easier to bend bends at a lower temperature doesn't bubble up as much but it's a little bit more cloudy it's also harder to cut it's also harder to debur because it tends to chatter and be a lot softer as it's a much more plasticky material uh but then you have acrylic which is much clearer than petg most of the time uh but it's also much more more brittle it's harder to bend because it tends to be very sensitive to the heat where you can go from not hot enough to too hot and blistering and just a couple of seconds depending on your heat application so it's a lot more finicky when it comes to bending the other thing which people are starting to do now which actually people were doing first and then it went away and then it came back is people using like copper tubing where they're going down to Home Depot and they're getting copper tube and Tube Benders and Tube straighteners and they're doing some really cool like steampunk stuff or polished copper or even nickel plating the copper and getting metal pipes in their system as well um that's one thing to keep in mind that you could do but it's a lot more work it's a whole different style of bending we're not even going to really talk about it in this video other than it's a type of material people have used in rigid feeding uh tubing builds but the reason why I'm mentioning it though is because copper tubing tends to have the same outer diameters as its petg and acrylic counterparts so the fittings for those uh rigid tubes are compatible with copper tubes if they're the same diameter it makes no difference all right we're getting ready to drop the bombshell of all Bombshells and that is the fact that when it comes to coolants Jay's 2 cense is saying it right here today I do not recommend running straight distilled water in your system period I think people are going to dis disagree with me on that I don't recommend it and I don't recommend running straight deionized water as well those are meant to be bases for concentrated fluids that are have things in them that you need in your system straight distilled water has no growth Inhibitors sure the minerals and stuff have typically been steamed out but over time growth can still occur not as often obviously as like tap water or drinking water but growth could occur the other thing is when the water is stripped of its ion during the distilling process or the deionized process the water wants its ions back as bad as I want my gpus back when someone takes one or borrows one as much as Jay is a for gpus water is a for ions and it's going to try and pull it from anywhere that it can which means it could start attacking the metal surfaces in your Loop it'll attack aluminum the most fortunately most companies don't use aluminum for any of their Metals for their radiators or their blocks and stuff so it won't really be a problem but it could start corroding either the copper or the nickel plating or whatever and if your nickel plating isn't the greatest you know quality then the deionized or distilled water could start attacking that first causing corrosion and flaking but if you're going to ignore me and you're going to use it anyway because you can get it for a buck down at the grocery store uh at least here in the United States some countries have to actually ship in their distilled water that's kind of crazy but you at the very least would need to add uh two or three drops of PT nuke which is a bias side to keep growth from happening inside of your straight watered Loop now if you're going to take my advice and use distilled or deionized water with a concentrate just know that all the concentrates on the market all they are is designed to be poured into like a usually three parts water to one part concentrate uh to give you the fluid that has everything you need in it it's got anti-c corrosives anti-growth Inhibitors uh it's it's going to have everything in there you even even the lubricants to keep your pumps nice and and lubricated so that you're going to keep everything nice and healthy in your system and they tend to be good for uh sometimes up to 2 years depending on on the type of metals in your system uh before you have to change the fluid whereas distilled water would need to be changed usually every 6 months if you're running just straight distilled now nanof fluids are what I'm using in Skunk Works nanof fluids actually give you a little bit better Cooling because the Nano particles themselves are giving you another Catalyst of transferring heat away so the Nano particles will soak up the heat as well move it and then off it goes plus you get a really nice kind of a neat opaque color where it's not see-through or transparent the only problem with nanofluids is uh when you turn off the system and it sits for any length of time the color starts to fall out a little bit where it starts to look very thin and then when you start up the system it remixes and everything's fine again but don't worry that Fallout is not going to clog up the nanop particles are so small they'll just remix once the pump starts moving the fluid and you get kind of a neat swirling Effect one thing to keep in mind though if you're going with PG or acrylic tubing is that there have been negative effects uh between ethylene glycol mixed Solutions with those types of tubing so you could have a problem there so you want to make sure that the coolant that you're picking is not based on uh ethylene glycol which could be a problem especially with those Plastics now I'm not sure what else there is to talk about I know this video wasn't n super fancy but I wanted to share the information with you guys I also know it was kind of long and it could have been much longer trust me some of the other recordings I did were upwards of 40 minutes but anyway if you guys have any questions do me a favor hit me up on Twitter and if you think I left something out that should have been in this maybe we'll turn this into a series where I'll I will do an update and go more into depth of particular topics within the chapters that we've discussed today so hit me up on Twitter I'm @ J2 cense uh tell me what you think I may have left out or if you guys just enjoyed the video you can tell me that too that always helps and makes my day a little bit better uh but I hope this video has helped you guys and I hope you understand a little bit better about these parts and what they mean so I'm going to get on out of here guys thanks for watching share this video if you think it's helped favorite this video If you enjoyed it or just hit the like button if you guys liked it otherwise mash the hell out of the dislike button because even though it makes me sad um that helps too so all right guys time to get out of here and we'll see you in the next oneall right so this is the third time I've done this video only because I was getting super long- winded when I talk about water cooling I get very passionate about it and I start to talk about it like Barnacles talks about 3D printing where it's like blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah blah that's actually not my impression of Jerry that's my impression of me so don't don't get all mad at me say I'm making fun of Jerry it's not true it's not true at all today's video is brought to you by linda.com slj the online learning platform where you can learn about pretty much any subject you want at your own rate maybe you want to be a gaming programmer and you want to learn from some of the leading experts in the world about how to design games well that's what linda.com J is offering you can go up there and check out online courses and thousands of videos about how to do practically anything some of the courses I recommend just based on my own interests would be automotive repair photography videography editing and you guys can pretty much brush up on any topic you want in the coolest thing is you can do it completely at your own pace so what are you waiting for head on over to linda.com slj for your free 10-day trial that's l y nda.com sjy make sure you use that link that way they know that I'm the one that sent you okay the goal of today's video is not to pick the parts for you it's to arm you with the knowledge you need to pick the parts yourself give a Mana fish he eats for a day teach a man to fish well you know the rest of the story and if you don't well then you better start learning how to fish right now so you want to do a water cooling Loop and you've spent time looking around the forums and on the websites and at the end of the day you're just pulling your hair out and you completely discombobulated cuz you're like this is hard I finally built my computer and this is hard I can't there's more parts than I know what to do it and it doesn't make sense trust me that's how I was when I was learning how to do all of this and it's easy Once you learn what stuff means so that's the point of today's video and we're going to start with chapter one that we're going to start right with the basics because sometimes people want to move right into the advanced stuff before they even understand the simple stuff so that's what we're going to focus on today now at the very least here's a list of parts you're going to need to connect all of your parts in your custom Loop you need a block a pump a radiator optionally a reservoir you need tubing fans coolant and fittings that's what you need that doesn't get any more basic than that we're done all right guys thanks for watching today's video and okay I'm just kidding I'm just kidding we'll go ahead and talk about each one of those and give you kind of a high level description of what those parts mean and hopefully then when you start looking through your spec sheets and stuff when you're shopping on websites you can understand what it is you're looking at they connect to a part grab the Heat and send it off into La La Land through the cooling Loop to be exhausted into the atmosphere and heat up your room and then go into your lungs and out your ass when you fart or whatever else so that's kind of like the circle of life when it comes to cooling your PC at the end of the day you fart the heat I've got a full metal block over here by alphacool with a brass top and a copper base and then I've got over here a nickel plated copper base block from EK water blocks a Supremacy block with a Plexi see-through top now one thing I want to get really clear really quickly it doesn't matter if it's copper it doesn't matter if it's nickel they're going to cool virtually identically the same even finding a difference of 1° C between nickel plated and bare copper is usually accounted for in margin of error so nickel plating is more of an Aesthetics thing but it doesn't matter if it's a plastic top or a metal top the top makes no difference to the cooling of the block it all happens on the base which is where the fins are and that is where the cooling is going to take place so just pick the one you think looks cool and has good reviews radiators this is always a fun one this tends to get people really all up in arms because they don't know what it means all right there's three major stats you need to know when it comes to radiator stat number one you've got the length measured in fans so you would have a 120 or a 240 or a 360 or a 480 etc etc so that's just usually uh telling you how many fans of what size you could fit on there so obviously a 120 radiator is a 120 mm fan the 240 two of them 360 three of them etc etc if it 140 mm fan then it would be A40 a 280 a 420 etc etc the other stat you need to know is about the radiator thickness the smallest you'll pretty much find is a 30 mm which I'm holding right here then they tend to go up in 15 mm increments where they're going to go from 30 to 45 to 60 and then they tend to jump to 80 mm which is the monster rad found uh pretty much I think the only company offering monster RADS is Alpha cool it's like a 80 mm thick thick Beast it's crazy and then the third one is the one that tends to really catch people off guard and this is what they don't know what to choose and that is fpi which stands for Fins per inch it's the number of fins that is going to be present in 1 in of fins that's also referred to as fin density so fpi or fin density is referring to the same thing so I've got two radiators right here both are the same thickness 30 MS both are 120 mm radiators but they both are very different in that this one here from alpha cool is a low fin density radiator at about 10 fpi whereas this one over here from Hardware Labs has about twice the fin density in it plus it has a a split fin design now these two radiators are also going to have different requirements when it comes to the fans for them a lower fpi radiator can get away with a lower static pressure fan running at lower RPMs while sacrificing a little bit of the cooling efficiency and maximum TDP wattage or you know wattage that could be dissipated in this radiator this guy over here will typically act like a thicker radiator by adding more fins in the same area but at the sacrifice of Acoustics where you'll have to typically run a higher RPM static pressure fan in order to push the air through this many fins having this many fins also means a little bit more turbulence a little bit more resistance and that of course is what you're actually hearing as the air goes through the radiator not the fan you're hearing the air being pushed by the fan bouncing off all of these fins so you can get more cooling out of a smaller radiator at the sacrifice of Acoustics now in terms of what size radiator I recommend well I recommend a 120 for every part that you're cooling so if you're cooling a CPU and a GPU a 240 would be the minimum and I recommend that for stock speeds the moment you start overclocking you are going to oversaturate that radiator's maximum TDP that it can dissipate and you are going to start getting heat soaked where the parts get hotter and hotter over time so I recommend if you're going to overclock a 240 for every part that you've got in the system so if you're going to overclock your CPU and you're going to overclock your GPU then you're going to need a 240 for each one for a total of 480 mm it doesn't have to be a 480 mil Rad but it does need to be a total of 480 mm that's the formula I use at a bare minimum I would go with as much radiator space as you can fit or Surface area that you can fit in your case rather have more cooling than necessary than not enough trust me GPU blocks we've got a 980 TI sitting right here with a full cover block on it now people always ask me what does full cover mean full cover doesn't mean it goes to the end of the card that's not what full cover means full coverage means the block is contacting all all of the parts on the card that generate heat that namely being the GPU core the vrm or power delivery system and the RAM chips and then a back plate is mostly Aesthetics and also offers some rigidity but at the sacrifice of more weight a full cover card is going to be a lot heavier than say just a universal core block that you can put on the GPU but this thing here will give you maximum overclocking it'll give you maximum Cooling and it's going to also add a lot of heat into your Loop so that's why you need to make sure you have more radiator than you need than or at least that you think you need that way you have plenty now some of the blocks will go to the end of the C some like this one won't it's really going to be up to the manufacturer and how they make them look uh with EK all of the Plexi blocks are shorter and all of the acetol blocks like I have on my Titans behind me are the length of the card why they did it that way I have no idea but this is going to be a little bit lighter than the blocks that you would find right now uh in Skunk Works so that's something to keep in mind too this is like twice the weight of what the graphics card used to be maybe not twice but pretty damn close Okay so fittings here's one that people tend to really over complicate fittings for soft tubing all you've got to do is match the numbers so if you are using a 3/8 by 5/8 soft tube then you want compression fittings that are 38 X 5/8 guess what they match the Barb is going to go onto the tube the collar is going to slide over you're going to tighten it down and you're going to have a good day because typically it won't leak you're gonna have a bad day if you don't match those or you get a collar that's too big and it doesn't actually clamp down but as long as the numbers match now Euro sizing some Euro websites they deal with the millimeters here in the United States we still deal with the standard system where you've got you know 38 5/8 half in 3/4 inch all that sort of stuff so if you're on a European site don't worry typically the they'll convert it back to the way everyone else in the world does it so it's just the US guys that have to worry about that when it comes two barbs all you've got to do is match the Barb size to the inner diameter measurement of the tube so if you've got a/ in inner diameter tube then you want a/ inch Barb that's it there you go now the other thing people get really confused about is the threading of the actual fitting itself I've had people email me asking why people run half inch inner diameter fittings when the hole is only a/ qu inch big it's because they see G quarter thread and they think that means that the hole is only a/4 in big G4 thread is the thread size not the hole size the hole is much bigger than the inner diameter of the fitting and the tubing I promise you that G14 thread is also the only thread I've ever used I've never used g38 of never needed to use it in fact I got sent it one time and it was it was like a black sheep it just got banished to the closet and it it didn't even have a purpose nobody uses that just G1 quarter thread all day long now fittings for rigid tubing uh it's all pretty much measured in millimeters and they tend to always be a 10 mm inner diameter but but that doesn't matter Nothing Else Matters with rigid tubing except the outer diameter of the tube and you'll typically find 10x 12 10x13 and 10x 16 those are like the two sizes that you will typic or three sizes you'll typically find bits power seems to kind of have have all the 12 mm stuff going on with the uh Crystal link 13 mm the most common that you're going to find and then 16 mm making it making it way into the scene with being a thicker tube that people are liking to see nice big fat tubes but all fittings for rigid tubing are compression that's the only way it can hold together you tighten the collar down the O-ring expands or gets squished out and it pushes against the actual tube and it's not going to pull out or go anywhere so if you're going to be using a 13 mm outer diameter rigid tube then you want a 13 mm compression fitting for rigid tubing it's really simple it's not any more difficult than that so don't over complicate it all right fellas let's go ahead and talk about our tube all right I'm going to keep it clean I'm going to keep it I want at least one video that's clean just one there could be so many in Windows in this video I mean it's just so hard do you see what I mean this sucks there's another one the jokes just keep pulling them right out of my ass we were kind of on a roll there for a moment weren't we so when it comes to tubing you've got a few different types of tubing you have got soft tubing and hard tubing and ladies you know which one you prefer okay I promise I promise I stop I'll stop I'll stop it now soft tubing is very flexible it tends to be clear usually but now you have black and you have white and you are starting to get uh different colors of soft tubing that are being introduced onto the market but soft tubing materials tend to vary depending on the actual appearance of the tube so white and black and all of that are going to be usually a different type of material but to keep in mind is clear soft tubing will tend to overtime cloud and leech plasticizer which depending on the quality of the tube that you use if enough plasticizer gets leeched it could get stuck in the tiny microfins found inside GPU blocks and CPU blocks and could cause you you know a bad day so you would definitely want to stay away from the plumbing section at Home Depot using the soft PVC or soft vinyl tubing because that stuff I've never seen any tubing leech like vinyl trust me it is terrible so taigon tends to be the the material that a lot of people go towards now rigid tubing you're going to have three major materials usually you're going to have a PG which is much more uh impact resistant easier to bend bends at a lower temperature doesn't bubble up as much but it's a little bit more cloudy it's also harder to cut it's also harder to debur because it tends to chatter and be a lot softer as it's a much more plasticky material uh but then you have acrylic which is much clearer than petg most of the time uh but it's also much more more brittle it's harder to bend because it tends to be very sensitive to the heat where you can go from not hot enough to too hot and blistering and just a couple of seconds depending on your heat application so it's a lot more finicky when it comes to bending the other thing which people are starting to do now which actually people were doing first and then it went away and then it came back is people using like copper tubing where they're going down to Home Depot and they're getting copper tube and Tube Benders and Tube straighteners and they're doing some really cool like steampunk stuff or polished copper or even nickel plating the copper and getting metal pipes in their system as well um that's one thing to keep in mind that you could do but it's a lot more work it's a whole different style of bending we're not even going to really talk about it in this video other than it's a type of material people have used in rigid feeding uh tubing builds but the reason why I'm mentioning it though is because copper tubing tends to have the same outer diameters as its petg and acrylic counterparts so the fittings for those uh rigid tubes are compatible with copper tubes if they're the same diameter it makes no difference all right we're getting ready to drop the bombshell of all Bombshells and that is the fact that when it comes to coolants Jay's 2 cense is saying it right here today I do not recommend running straight distilled water in your system period I think people are going to dis disagree with me on that I don't recommend it and I don't recommend running straight deionized water as well those are meant to be bases for concentrated fluids that are have things in them that you need in your system straight distilled water has no growth Inhibitors sure the minerals and stuff have typically been steamed out but over time growth can still occur not as often obviously as like tap water or drinking water but growth could occur the other thing is when the water is stripped of its ion during the distilling process or the deionized process the water wants its ions back as bad as I want my gpus back when someone takes one or borrows one as much as Jay is a for gpus water is a for ions and it's going to try and pull it from anywhere that it can which means it could start attacking the metal surfaces in your Loop it'll attack aluminum the most fortunately most companies don't use aluminum for any of their Metals for their radiators or their blocks and stuff so it won't really be a problem but it could start corroding either the copper or the nickel plating or whatever and if your nickel plating isn't the greatest you know quality then the deionized or distilled water could start attacking that first causing corrosion and flaking but if you're going to ignore me and you're going to use it anyway because you can get it for a buck down at the grocery store uh at least here in the United States some countries have to actually ship in their distilled water that's kind of crazy but you at the very least would need to add uh two or three drops of PT nuke which is a bias side to keep growth from happening inside of your straight watered Loop now if you're going to take my advice and use distilled or deionized water with a concentrate just know that all the concentrates on the market all they are is designed to be poured into like a usually three parts water to one part concentrate uh to give you the fluid that has everything you need in it it's got anti-c corrosives anti-growth Inhibitors uh it's it's going to have everything in there you even even the lubricants to keep your pumps nice and and lubricated so that you're going to keep everything nice and healthy in your system and they tend to be good for uh sometimes up to 2 years depending on on the type of metals in your system uh before you have to change the fluid whereas distilled water would need to be changed usually every 6 months if you're running just straight distilled now nanof fluids are what I'm using in Skunk Works nanof fluids actually give you a little bit better Cooling because the Nano particles themselves are giving you another Catalyst of transferring heat away so the Nano particles will soak up the heat as well move it and then off it goes plus you get a really nice kind of a neat opaque color where it's not see-through or transparent the only problem with nanofluids is uh when you turn off the system and it sits for any length of time the color starts to fall out a little bit where it starts to look very thin and then when you start up the system it remixes and everything's fine again but don't worry that Fallout is not going to clog up the nanop particles are so small they'll just remix once the pump starts moving the fluid and you get kind of a neat swirling Effect one thing to keep in mind though if you're going with PG or acrylic tubing is that there have been negative effects uh between ethylene glycol mixed Solutions with those types of tubing so you could have a problem there so you want to make sure that the coolant that you're picking is not based on uh ethylene glycol which could be a problem especially with those Plastics now I'm not sure what else there is to talk about I know this video wasn't n super fancy but I wanted to share the information with you guys I also know it was kind of long and it could have been much longer trust me some of the other recordings I did were upwards of 40 minutes but anyway if you guys have any questions do me a favor hit me up on Twitter and if you think I left something out that should have been in this maybe we'll turn this into a series where I'll I will do an update and go more into depth of particular topics within the chapters that we've discussed today so hit me up on Twitter I'm @ J2 cense uh tell me what you think I may have left out or if you guys just enjoyed the video you can tell me that too that always helps and makes my day a little bit better uh but I hope this video has helped you guys and I hope you understand a little bit better about these parts and what they mean so I'm going to get on out of here guys thanks for watching share this video if you think it's helped favorite this video If you enjoyed it or just hit the like button if you guys liked it otherwise mash the hell out of the dislike button because even though it makes me sad um that helps too so all right guys time to get out of here and we'll see you in the next one\n"