The Art of Engine Assembly: A Step-by-Step Guide

As I began my engine assembly project, I knew that patience and attention to detail were key. My goal was to create a beautiful and functional engine, and I was willing to put in the time and effort necessary to achieve it.

My first step was to assemble the block of the engine. This involved installing the main cap, piston rings, and connecting rods. I started by loosening the main cap, then using a piston ring compressor to secure the rings in place. Next, I installed the connecting rods, making sure they were properly aligned with the crankshaft.

I also took the time to apply a generous amount of Lube, ensuring that all moving parts were well-lubricated. This was crucial, as I had heard that using too much Lube could cause problems down the line. However, I knew that having enough Lube was better than not enough, so I applied it liberally.

As I worked on the engine, I made sure to take my time and be careful. I was determined to get everything just right, and I wasn't willing to rush through the process. This meant that some parts of the assembly took longer than others, but ultimately, it was worth it.

One of the challenges I faced during this process was getting the Pistons into place. The little step deck made it a bit more difficult than usual, causing me to pop out a few rings before I finally got them in. However, with some patience and persistence, I was able to get everything secure.

Once the Pistons were in place, I turned my attention to the connecting rods. I tightened them down to the crankshaft, making sure they were snug but not too tight. The ideal tension was around 15,000ths of an inch, which allowed for smooth operation without causing excessive wear on the engine.

Now that the bottom end of the engine was complete, it was time to focus on the other components that needed to be installed. This included the water pump, pulley, balance shafts, and a few other accessories. While these were important parts, I knew that they would have to wait for another video.

For now, I could consider my work done on the bottom end of the engine. I had taken great care in assembling everything, and I was confident that it would run smoothly and efficiently. The hardest part of the project was finally behind me, and I felt a sense of pride and accomplishment.

As I looked at the finished block, I couldn't help but feel a sense of satisfaction. It was beautiful, with its intricate components and precise engineering. I knew that this engine would be worth the effort it took to assemble, and I was excited to see it come together in its entirety.

The process of assembling an engine can seem daunting at first, but with patience and attention to detail, it becomes a manageable task. By taking my time and being careful, I was able to create a beautiful and functional engine that would serve me well for years to come.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enwhat's going on guys in today's video I'm gonna be trying to get the bottom end for the minivan all the way put together so I pretty much have all the parts for it laid out over here I have the Pistons I have the rods we have main studs we have main bearings rod bearings and then of course all the Rings to go on the Pistons as well so what I've done for right now is the box that the Pistons came in I've just kind of labeled 1 2 3 4 inside the box for each cylinder and as I go and measure the ring gaps I'm just gonna keep them all you know where they need to go because when you measure the Rings you want to do it per cylinder so for instance if I do this ring in cylinder number 1 and you know gap it to this cylinder I want to make sure it stays in this cylinder because there might be some differences between the other cylinders so the ring u gap you want to keep it in the cylinder u gap it in so I'll do one ring in there ring in here ring in here ring here and then yeah just make sure you keep the Rings in the cylinders that you measured them in and then the Pistons really don't matter where those go so I think I've gone over this a few times already on how I gap the Rings and stuff like that but for some of you newer guys who don't know how to do this I will go over it real quick so what I'm gonna be doing is like I just said I'm gonna take this first ring this is going to be for the number one cylinder this is the top ring so this will be going on this top groove on the piston right here and then I have to do it for the second one as well and then you know put the oil ones on later I'll get a little more into that but this is the top ring and pretty much what you do is you squeeze the ring into the cylinder like so might be a little tough with one hand so get it in there and then you want to grab a piston and push it in there upside-down just to flatten the ring out inside the cylinder and push it down you know good like inch or so and what we are measuring is this little gap right there so you need this gap to be a certain size because when the engine is running it will expand with heats you need to make sure that the gap is big enough that it doesn't you know close in on itself and you want to make sure that it's not too big and you'll get a lot of excessive blow by and things like that on this exact build I'm gonna be going nineteen thousands on the top ring and 20 thousands on the second ring and if I can get this thing to focus so I'm just using a feeler gauge and then you'll just put that in between the ring gap right there this is at nineteen thousand and right now it does not fit because it needs to be filed down some so most of the time the rings will need to be filed when you get them so they make them a little tight on purpose so then you can purposely set the gap to what you want so that one right there's a little tight it's actually pretty close though so it won't need much but I'm basically gonna go through put all the Rings in there measure the gaps I'm just gonna be using a file like this one right here and I will take the ring back out of the cylinder and just run it back and forth on the file file it down a little bit put it back in and remeasure you want to do this in little steps at a time and make sure you're careful when you file it because if you go too much you're kind of screwed because you can't add the material back so it's better to go in little steps and make sure you get it right without doing way too much on the first filing I guess you would say but uh yeah I'm gonna get to that so I'm gonna start by doing all the top rings first and I'm just gonna go ahead and get the bottom rings done as well so like I said I'm gonna go 19 thousands on the top and 21 thousands on the second ring that's the same specs that I went on the hatch and it seems to be doing great so uh yeah I'm gonna get to it all right I got the rings all gapped I tried to do like a moving time-lapse so hopefully that came out all right but in that time I got all the rings done or at least I got the first and second ring done for every piston and I'm not even going to measure any of the oil rings so those shouldn't need measurement I've never measured them I'm just gonna set them all in there make sure they you know look all right but I've been told by a lot of people that they don't measure the oil rings and I stopped doing it a long time ago I didn't do it in my wagon and I never measured them in my hatch as well so I'm not gonna measure the oil rings those should be good where they're at and now I'm going to be connecting the Pistons to the connecting rods with the pin that they came with right here so this will just slide through the piston and through the rod which will hold it on and then there's some retaining clips that go on each side of that pin to keep it from sliding out so this will go like that and I'll put the rod right in there and push the pin through and put your clips on each side and then once I get those on I can put the rings on and then push them down into the cylinders and then it also does matter where you put the gap on the piston rings they need to be clocked correctly so I'll go over that and a little bit once I get all the Pistons onto the connecting rods but that's what I'm gonna be doing for right now is getting all the Pistons attached to the rods so I got the first piston right here and I almost have the snap ring in place I didn't get it all the way in just to show you kind of how I put them in these Pistons right here came with this style of snap ring some of them come with like the c-clip style that have the two little holes where you can actually use snap ring pliers to open them up and those are pretty nice to use because if you have the pliers it makes it really easy to take them in and out these ones are a little harder to work with but they're not that bad there's the little tricky so I pretty much just got one side started and I just pushed it in and I'm just gonna finish it off with my fingers so just like that it's pretty easy it's just hard to get it started but once it starts to get into the groove they snap right in and then I'm just gonna get one side in on all the pistons and then I'll be able to take the rod and put it through and then slide the pin through it and then put the snap ring on the other side another thing to note is that you want to put the rod on the right way so there's these two notches on the inside of the connecting rod right here there's one on the rod itself and one on the connecting cap you want these two notches at least in my case to be on the exhaust side of the piston so that's gonna be this side right here with the smaller valves and I'm pretty sure it just has to do with the way the engine rotates but you're gonna want these two notches to be right here on the front of the car when it's inside the motor on the exhaust side so keep that in mind when you're putting yours together I only know this for Honda's I'm not sure if other motors are different but I know in my case those notches go to the exhaust side and so now that I have that first clip in on this side and I know which way this rod goes in I'm going to set this guy in like that and put some assembly Lube on the pin right here just kind of help everything give new brocaded don't be afraid to use a lot it's always better to have more than too little got some Lube on the pin I'm gonna slider through like so line up the rod and there she goes when a little tighter than I would have imagined but still get still spins freely so then after you get the pin all the way in there you're gonna take the second clip and press it in and it will be all together so I just got that second clip in and another thing there's this little notch right here and if the gap from that c-clip or that snap ring um if the gap is right there in that little notch you're gonna want to take a like a flathead and scoot the gap out of the way of this notch right here just to help reassure the dots not bring doesn't come out while the motors running and there we go this pretty much complete and I just got to do the other three get some rings on them and drop them into the cylinders and then we'll worry about getting the rod bearings and stuff like that on once they're in the block all right so now that I got the Pistons attached to the connecting rods I can go ahead and start putting on the piston rings and I already went ahead and got this first one done so I'm gonna be doing these a little different than how I've done my wagon and hatch in the past so important thing you have to keep in mind is where the gaps go on the piston rings so I'm gonna be doing this one with all the gaps completely 180 from each other so it will make the air have to travel you know in between each one and take the longest path to get through all the Rings so like when the combustion happens on top it has to pass through this gap and then go all the way around 180 pass through the second gap all the way back to the oil ring right here and then you know back and forth so a lot of guys will just go off om specs for this but I'm gonna try it this way and see how it works I was talking to a couple guys so I'm gonna try this out so I have the first ring right here on this corner and the on the exhaust side and then the second ring 180 degrees from that and then the first oil ring is right here on this corner and then the last one is 180 degrees from that so the air is gonna have to travel you know all the way around take the longest path to escape and it's also important to know when you're putting these rings on to keep the make sure it's the right side up because there's like these little letters and markings and those will face up I don't think my camera's gonna be able to focus on any of those but they have these little letters on there and you just want to make sure those are facing up when you put the rings on and yeah and also a little squiggly oil one the gap for that one is right here in the middle on the exhaust side that's where I'm gonna put it so I'm sure a lot of you guys would do this you know have your own ways to do this but I'm gonna try this out and see how it goes as long as there's not a whole bunch of blow-by there shouldn't be any issues so yeah I'm gonna go ahead and get the others all put together and then we'll be ready to put them into the block all right so all of the rings are on all of the pistons but before we get those pressed into the block we are going to plasti gauge the crank so get that set in there and make sure all the clearances seem right so we have all the main bearings put in already we just break cleaned off underneath all those clean them out real good before we put them on so we're gonna get the crank put on right now tighten everything down and take it all apart and make sure it clearances out correctly oh that's backwards alright so now we're putting in our a RP mains just gotta put some lube on this helps when you torque them down so that they actually spin and don't get caught up because they're dry and you just want to get them all the way to the bottom they're not really tighten them much but just give them snug you're supposed to just go hand tight but I just give them a little little snug up at the end so we just got all the main studs put in and right now I'm just ripping up some plastic gauge and setting it on the crank we're gonna torque the girdle down and hopefully everything is in spec so I think I said in an older video I did get the crank checked and it was straight so I know it's not bent or anything but I did not get it polished or anything like that so everything should be in factory spec like for sure because I got this crank out of a bone stock each 22-a and it looked like it was in good shape so find out here in a second alright so we just got them all torqued down I went to 62 foot-pounds right now I'm breaking them all loose so factory spec is 54 foot-pounds so we just went a little more since they are they are piece I went 55 when I did my hatch and it was good right there so I just went a little more on this one and you'll see how it did if they're a little too tight then I'll probably just keep this one at 55 as well but I think it should be already right about 15 fifteen no one's in between 15 and 20 just under 15 and about 15 on that one so yeah those are those are looking good right there that would work with me yeah that's when I did it last they were all like like ten thousandths and like it was really tight so this one's looking much better 15 so a little tight but that's like back to respec and I'm not worried about it should we did get her all lubed up and like I said before guys can never use too much Lube he's good for something yep there's good things and if you have some leftover you can just keep it on your nightstand and this pot o lubbers lasted me for like months as ever since I put my wagon together there's some og Lube right here make sure you put it the right way this time I got it I'm just like Tibet it's almost pinch my fingers don't forget the thrust walkers these little notches face outward not really face inward no outward I just ask this because I didn't remember all right then put the main cap back on and talk her down for good and we can put the rods and the Pistons good yeah that butter Fenian also president spends that freely that's good alright so we got the main hurdle all torque down the cranks in place so we're gonna go ahead and put the Pistons in in routes so all the Rings should be set where they need to be just got to grab the ring compressor clamp it down you have seen it in a previous video started on in there Dom then we will tighten the rods to the crank I'm also going to possibly gauge a couple of the rods to make sure that they are in spec as well because they are used richer that's on the exhaust side alright one more thing we need someone well we need the loo need Lube row it's always gotta be moist yeah whenever you're putting your ride inside you know especially when you're putting the rod in the hole you want some Lube enough assembly loops the best Lube for this not only do i but yeah I'm gonna do oil on the next ones it's like so it's thick yeah it's very thick thick with three C's it's the sauce it's just hard to move see the oil the juice but that's the sauce right there got it all right I got all the Pistons in so this little step deck right here kind of made it a pain to get them in there kind of popping out of the ring compressor a couple times where we got them so I get to flip back over and tighten them down to the crank after the plastic ated all right so the rods are right at 15,000th so now work get them all connected and the bottom end will pretty much be done so I always thought the last step I'm gonna do tonight is get all the rods connected and and call it good there baby Richard there she's gonna rip I've never had such a pretty block before and see what it wasn't I telling you about that like where sucks your hand in Stowe yeah I watch you do it my hands big enough oh yeah I did a little bit what is it you have to get it perfect you'll just like that a side table and oh that's good you got some suction like so we can't hurts its creepy-looking we get it ah sweet Betty nice licking motor right there look at that dude my hand was like getting sucked in dude it feels so weird it's like cool though I think you want me to hold it against my you can see like Mike yes you can see both sides like throwing in oh that's so funny yeah go all right guys that's as far as we are gonna get for tonight so we pretty much got the full bottom end put together obviously we're missing some of the accessories that go on the side like the water pump and the pulley and the balance shafts and some other things but we'll take care of those in another video the hardest part is over with we got all the Pistons and rods in the block got the crank tighten down everything is ready to go throw an oil pan on it and the oil pick up and also oil pump and pretty much the bottom of the motor will be completely assembled but yeah it's getting late so gonna get this edited and I'll probably upload it before I go to class or something because it's like already 1:00 in the morning so uh yeah hope you guys enjoyed and thanks for watchingwhat's going on guys in today's video I'm gonna be trying to get the bottom end for the minivan all the way put together so I pretty much have all the parts for it laid out over here I have the Pistons I have the rods we have main studs we have main bearings rod bearings and then of course all the Rings to go on the Pistons as well so what I've done for right now is the box that the Pistons came in I've just kind of labeled 1 2 3 4 inside the box for each cylinder and as I go and measure the ring gaps I'm just gonna keep them all you know where they need to go because when you measure the Rings you want to do it per cylinder so for instance if I do this ring in cylinder number 1 and you know gap it to this cylinder I want to make sure it stays in this cylinder because there might be some differences between the other cylinders so the ring u gap you want to keep it in the cylinder u gap it in so I'll do one ring in there ring in here ring in here ring here and then yeah just make sure you keep the Rings in the cylinders that you measured them in and then the Pistons really don't matter where those go so I think I've gone over this a few times already on how I gap the Rings and stuff like that but for some of you newer guys who don't know how to do this I will go over it real quick so what I'm gonna be doing is like I just said I'm gonna take this first ring this is going to be for the number one cylinder this is the top ring so this will be going on this top groove on the piston right here and then I have to do it for the second one as well and then you know put the oil ones on later I'll get a little more into that but this is the top ring and pretty much what you do is you squeeze the ring into the cylinder like so might be a little tough with one hand so get it in there and then you want to grab a piston and push it in there upside-down just to flatten the ring out inside the cylinder and push it down you know good like inch or so and what we are measuring is this little gap right there so you need this gap to be a certain size because when the engine is running it will expand with heats you need to make sure that the gap is big enough that it doesn't you know close in on itself and you want to make sure that it's not too big and you'll get a lot of excessive blow by and things like that on this exact build I'm gonna be going nineteen thousands on the top ring and 20 thousands on the second ring and if I can get this thing to focus so I'm just using a feeler gauge and then you'll just put that in between the ring gap right there this is at nineteen thousand and right now it does not fit because it needs to be filed down some so most of the time the rings will need to be filed when you get them so they make them a little tight on purpose so then you can purposely set the gap to what you want so that one right there's a little tight it's actually pretty close though so it won't need much but I'm basically gonna go through put all the Rings in there measure the gaps I'm just gonna be using a file like this one right here and I will take the ring back out of the cylinder and just run it back and forth on the file file it down a little bit put it back in and remeasure you want to do this in little steps at a time and make sure you're careful when you file it because if you go too much you're kind of screwed because you can't add the material back so it's better to go in little steps and make sure you get it right without doing way too much on the first filing I guess you would say but uh yeah I'm gonna get to that so I'm gonna start by doing all the top rings first and I'm just gonna go ahead and get the bottom rings done as well so like I said I'm gonna go 19 thousands on the top and 21 thousands on the second ring that's the same specs that I went on the hatch and it seems to be doing great so uh yeah I'm gonna get to it all right I got the rings all gapped I tried to do like a moving time-lapse so hopefully that came out all right but in that time I got all the rings done or at least I got the first and second ring done for every piston and I'm not even going to measure any of the oil rings so those shouldn't need measurement I've never measured them I'm just gonna set them all in there make sure they you know look all right but I've been told by a lot of people that they don't measure the oil rings and I stopped doing it a long time ago I didn't do it in my wagon and I never measured them in my hatch as well so I'm not gonna measure the oil rings those should be good where they're at and now I'm going to be connecting the Pistons to the connecting rods with the pin that they came with right here so this will just slide through the piston and through the rod which will hold it on and then there's some retaining clips that go on each side of that pin to keep it from sliding out so this will go like that and I'll put the rod right in there and push the pin through and put your clips on each side and then once I get those on I can put the rings on and then push them down into the cylinders and then it also does matter where you put the gap on the piston rings they need to be clocked correctly so I'll go over that and a little bit once I get all the Pistons onto the connecting rods but that's what I'm gonna be doing for right now is getting all the Pistons attached to the rods so I got the first piston right here and I almost have the snap ring in place I didn't get it all the way in just to show you kind of how I put them in these Pistons right here came with this style of snap ring some of them come with like the c-clip style that have the two little holes where you can actually use snap ring pliers to open them up and those are pretty nice to use because if you have the pliers it makes it really easy to take them in and out these ones are a little harder to work with but they're not that bad there's the little tricky so I pretty much just got one side started and I just pushed it in and I'm just gonna finish it off with my fingers so just like that it's pretty easy it's just hard to get it started but once it starts to get into the groove they snap right in and then I'm just gonna get one side in on all the pistons and then I'll be able to take the rod and put it through and then slide the pin through it and then put the snap ring on the other side another thing to note is that you want to put the rod on the right way so there's these two notches on the inside of the connecting rod right here there's one on the rod itself and one on the connecting cap you want these two notches at least in my case to be on the exhaust side of the piston so that's gonna be this side right here with the smaller valves and I'm pretty sure it just has to do with the way the engine rotates but you're gonna want these two notches to be right here on the front of the car when it's inside the motor on the exhaust side so keep that in mind when you're putting yours together I only know this for Honda's I'm not sure if other motors are different but I know in my case those notches go to the exhaust side and so now that I have that first clip in on this side and I know which way this rod goes in I'm going to set this guy in like that and put some assembly Lube on the pin right here just kind of help everything give new brocaded don't be afraid to use a lot it's always better to have more than too little got some Lube on the pin I'm gonna slider through like so line up the rod and there she goes when a little tighter than I would have imagined but still get still spins freely so then after you get the pin all the way in there you're gonna take the second clip and press it in and it will be all together so I just got that second clip in and another thing there's this little notch right here and if the gap from that c-clip or that snap ring um if the gap is right there in that little notch you're gonna want to take a like a flathead and scoot the gap out of the way of this notch right here just to help reassure the dots not bring doesn't come out while the motors running and there we go this pretty much complete and I just got to do the other three get some rings on them and drop them into the cylinders and then we'll worry about getting the rod bearings and stuff like that on once they're in the block all right so now that I got the Pistons attached to the connecting rods I can go ahead and start putting on the piston rings and I already went ahead and got this first one done so I'm gonna be doing these a little different than how I've done my wagon and hatch in the past so important thing you have to keep in mind is where the gaps go on the piston rings so I'm gonna be doing this one with all the gaps completely 180 from each other so it will make the air have to travel you know in between each one and take the longest path to get through all the Rings so like when the combustion happens on top it has to pass through this gap and then go all the way around 180 pass through the second gap all the way back to the oil ring right here and then you know back and forth so a lot of guys will just go off om specs for this but I'm gonna try it this way and see how it works I was talking to a couple guys so I'm gonna try this out so I have the first ring right here on this corner and the on the exhaust side and then the second ring 180 degrees from that and then the first oil ring is right here on this corner and then the last one is 180 degrees from that so the air is gonna have to travel you know all the way around take the longest path to escape and it's also important to know when you're putting these rings on to keep the make sure it's the right side up because there's like these little letters and markings and those will face up I don't think my camera's gonna be able to focus on any of those but they have these little letters on there and you just want to make sure those are facing up when you put the rings on and yeah and also a little squiggly oil one the gap for that one is right here in the middle on the exhaust side that's where I'm gonna put it so I'm sure a lot of you guys would do this you know have your own ways to do this but I'm gonna try this out and see how it goes as long as there's not a whole bunch of blow-by there shouldn't be any issues so yeah I'm gonna go ahead and get the others all put together and then we'll be ready to put them into the block all right so all of the rings are on all of the pistons but before we get those pressed into the block we are going to plasti gauge the crank so get that set in there and make sure all the clearances seem right so we have all the main bearings put in already we just break cleaned off underneath all those clean them out real good before we put them on so we're gonna get the crank put on right now tighten everything down and take it all apart and make sure it clearances out correctly oh that's backwards alright so now we're putting in our a RP mains just gotta put some lube on this helps when you torque them down so that they actually spin and don't get caught up because they're dry and you just want to get them all the way to the bottom they're not really tighten them much but just give them snug you're supposed to just go hand tight but I just give them a little little snug up at the end so we just got all the main studs put in and right now I'm just ripping up some plastic gauge and setting it on the crank we're gonna torque the girdle down and hopefully everything is in spec so I think I said in an older video I did get the crank checked and it was straight so I know it's not bent or anything but I did not get it polished or anything like that so everything should be in factory spec like for sure because I got this crank out of a bone stock each 22-a and it looked like it was in good shape so find out here in a second alright so we just got them all torqued down I went to 62 foot-pounds right now I'm breaking them all loose so factory spec is 54 foot-pounds so we just went a little more since they are they are piece I went 55 when I did my hatch and it was good right there so I just went a little more on this one and you'll see how it did if they're a little too tight then I'll probably just keep this one at 55 as well but I think it should be already right about 15 fifteen no one's in between 15 and 20 just under 15 and about 15 on that one so yeah those are those are looking good right there that would work with me yeah that's when I did it last they were all like like ten thousandths and like it was really tight so this one's looking much better 15 so a little tight but that's like back to respec and I'm not worried about it should we did get her all lubed up and like I said before guys can never use too much Lube he's good for something yep there's good things and if you have some leftover you can just keep it on your nightstand and this pot o lubbers lasted me for like months as ever since I put my wagon together there's some og Lube right here make sure you put it the right way this time I got it I'm just like Tibet it's almost pinch my fingers don't forget the thrust walkers these little notches face outward not really face inward no outward I just ask this because I didn't remember all right then put the main cap back on and talk her down for good and we can put the rods and the Pistons good yeah that butter Fenian also president spends that freely that's good alright so we got the main hurdle all torque down the cranks in place so we're gonna go ahead and put the Pistons in in routes so all the Rings should be set where they need to be just got to grab the ring compressor clamp it down you have seen it in a previous video started on in there Dom then we will tighten the rods to the crank I'm also going to possibly gauge a couple of the rods to make sure that they are in spec as well because they are used richer that's on the exhaust side alright one more thing we need someone well we need the loo need Lube row it's always gotta be moist yeah whenever you're putting your ride inside you know especially when you're putting the rod in the hole you want some Lube enough assembly loops the best Lube for this not only do i but yeah I'm gonna do oil on the next ones it's like so it's thick yeah it's very thick thick with three C's it's the sauce it's just hard to move see the oil the juice but that's the sauce right there got it all right I got all the Pistons in so this little step deck right here kind of made it a pain to get them in there kind of popping out of the ring compressor a couple times where we got them so I get to flip back over and tighten them down to the crank after the plastic ated all right so the rods are right at 15,000th so now work get them all connected and the bottom end will pretty much be done so I always thought the last step I'm gonna do tonight is get all the rods connected and and call it good there baby Richard there she's gonna rip I've never had such a pretty block before and see what it wasn't I telling you about that like where sucks your hand in Stowe yeah I watch you do it my hands big enough oh yeah I did a little bit what is it you have to get it perfect you'll just like that a side table and oh that's good you got some suction like so we can't hurts its creepy-looking we get it ah sweet Betty nice licking motor right there look at that dude my hand was like getting sucked in dude it feels so weird it's like cool though I think you want me to hold it against my you can see like Mike yes you can see both sides like throwing in oh that's so funny yeah go all right guys that's as far as we are gonna get for tonight so we pretty much got the full bottom end put together obviously we're missing some of the accessories that go on the side like the water pump and the pulley and the balance shafts and some other things but we'll take care of those in another video the hardest part is over with we got all the Pistons and rods in the block got the crank tighten down everything is ready to go throw an oil pan on it and the oil pick up and also oil pump and pretty much the bottom of the motor will be completely assembled but yeah it's getting late so gonna get this edited and I'll probably upload it before I go to class or something because it's like already 1:00 in the morning so uh yeah hope you guys enjoyed and thanks for watching\n"