The Excavation and Installation of New Radiator Lines

As we begin to replace the old convector with a new one, it's essential to cut the supply return line right where it meets the current system. This will allow us to run new lines below the floor, which is a crucial step in the process. With a reciprocating saw, we can easily cut through the existing pipes and prepare the area for installation.

New Radiator Lines: Supply and Return

Now that we've cut the supply return line, let's take a closer look at the proper lines that were used with the old convector. The new radiator will have its supply and return lines in a different location, so it's essential to identify these lines correctly. By carefully examining the existing system, we can determine where the new lines should be run.

Rearing Up the Lines Under the Floor

To rear up the lines under the floor, we need to excavate the area first. This will give us access to the space underneath the subfloor, allowing us to run the new lines in their correct position. With the excavation complete, we can now begin to rear up the lines, making sure they're properly secured and aligned.

Marking the Center of the Return Pipe

Once we've reared up the return pipe, it's essential to mark its center point accurately. This will ensure that the new radiator is installed correctly, with the supply and return lines in the right position. Measuring carefully, we find that the center of our return pipe should be four inches off the wall.

Cutting and Cleaning the Piping

With the marks made, we can now cut and clean the piping to fit it into its correct position. Using a reciprocating saw, we make precise cuts, followed by thorough cleaning to remove any debris or residue. The piping is then dry-fitted to ensure a snug fit in the new location.

Establishing the Center-to-Center Dimension

With the piping cleaned and fitted, we can now establish the center-to-center dimension of our radiator. By using the supplied pipes, we've determined that the center-to-center distance should be 18 inches for this particular model. This measurement will help us ensure a proper fit and secure installation.

Determining the Height of the Radiator

To complete the installation, we need to determine the height at which the new radiator will sit on the floor. Instead of using a simple piece of copper pipe straight up through the floor, we'll use a more aesthetic approach. By adding shutoff valves, chrome nipples, and flanges, we can create a seamless look that complements the surrounding tile work.

Securement with Clips and Cardboard

To keep the piping in place while we install the radiator, we'll secure it with clips and cardboard. The clips will prevent the pipe from squeaking against the wood subfloor, ensuring a smooth installation process. With the clips securely attached, we can now proceed to thread our chrome nipples into their correct positions.

Locating the Base Units

Before threading the chrome nipples, we need to locate the base units exactly on the wall. This is crucial for proper alignment and secure installation. By measuring carefully and using toggles where necessary, we can ensure that the radiator will sit flush against the wall.

Drilling Holes for the Toggle Bolts

Since we've found no studs in the wall, we'll need to use toggles to secure the hanger bases. To do this, we'll drill bigger holes than usual, making sure to accommodate the spring-loaded clip that will fit through a hole in the wall and expand once inside.

Docking the Radiator into Place

With the toggle bolts in place, it's time to dock the radiator into its correct position. By carefully pushing it back into the hanger bases, we can ensure a secure fit and proper alignment.

Snugfitting the Radiator

The final step is to snug-fit the radiator, ensuring that all connections are secure and the system is ready for operation. With the new convector installed, we're now one step closer to a warm and comfortable home, thanks to our diligent efforts in excavating, installing, and securing the new radiator lines.

"WEBVTTKind: captionsLanguage: enfor the system drained we can get this convector out of the way and it starts by cutting the supply return line right here now we're going to run new lines below the floor so I could just cut it with a reciprocating saw and here's the proper lines that were the supply and the return to the old convector now the new radiator is going to have those lines in a different place here's the supply and here's the return so now we need to rear up these lines under the floor in order to do that we need to excavate the floor so we can rear up it okay with that open we now are ready to rear up these lines to our new radiator location and now we'll just make our marks right down here good okay four inches off this wall is the center of our return pipe and now I've cut and cleaned the piping and now I can dry fit it and that looks about right right there and now 18 inches away here's our mark for our supply and that's the center of the pipe and again we've cleaned it and flexed it and now we just need to solder them together Oh now with these pipes Sardar we've now established our center-to-center dimension of 18 inches for this radiator we still have to figure out our height now I could just bring a piece of copper pipe straight up through the floor to the bottom of the radiator but it'll look a lot better if we use something like this on each side of the radio there'll be a shutoff valve then a chrome nipple like this and then a flange so when the tile is done it'll look perfect well just underneath it is a threaded adapter and I would like the top of that thread is adapted to be flush with the top of the subfloor and that's right about here I'll secure the pipe with these clips and the cardboard just keeps the pipe from squeaking against the wood so with this in place I'll secure it and now it's time to put our trim bits into place so to thread our chrome nipples in now when you snug it up with a crescent wrench first thing is to make sure we can locate these base units exactly on the wall okay is one and this too so we just want the center of these circles and that's where we drill our holes since we have found no studs at all it means we're going to have to use toggles now the toggle bolt will go through the hanger base and this is a spring-loaded clip that will fit through a hole in the wall and once it gets inside the wall it Springs open so it means we got to drill bigger holes I'm just holding back against it so the toggle doesn't spin in the wall now we just need to dock the radiator right into those hanger bases get that okay can i push that back yep there it is there's one push down okay now we just snug it up we can start to refill the heating system and you will be back in businessfor the system drained we can get this convector out of the way and it starts by cutting the supply return line right here now we're going to run new lines below the floor so I could just cut it with a reciprocating saw and here's the proper lines that were the supply and the return to the old convector now the new radiator is going to have those lines in a different place here's the supply and here's the return so now we need to rear up these lines under the floor in order to do that we need to excavate the floor so we can rear up it okay with that open we now are ready to rear up these lines to our new radiator location and now we'll just make our marks right down here good okay four inches off this wall is the center of our return pipe and now I've cut and cleaned the piping and now I can dry fit it and that looks about right right there and now 18 inches away here's our mark for our supply and that's the center of the pipe and again we've cleaned it and flexed it and now we just need to solder them together Oh now with these pipes Sardar we've now established our center-to-center dimension of 18 inches for this radiator we still have to figure out our height now I could just bring a piece of copper pipe straight up through the floor to the bottom of the radiator but it'll look a lot better if we use something like this on each side of the radio there'll be a shutoff valve then a chrome nipple like this and then a flange so when the tile is done it'll look perfect well just underneath it is a threaded adapter and I would like the top of that thread is adapted to be flush with the top of the subfloor and that's right about here I'll secure the pipe with these clips and the cardboard just keeps the pipe from squeaking against the wood so with this in place I'll secure it and now it's time to put our trim bits into place so to thread our chrome nipples in now when you snug it up with a crescent wrench first thing is to make sure we can locate these base units exactly on the wall okay is one and this too so we just want the center of these circles and that's where we drill our holes since we have found no studs at all it means we're going to have to use toggles now the toggle bolt will go through the hanger base and this is a spring-loaded clip that will fit through a hole in the wall and once it gets inside the wall it Springs open so it means we got to drill bigger holes I'm just holding back against it so the toggle doesn't spin in the wall now we just need to dock the radiator right into those hanger bases get that okay can i push that back yep there it is there's one push down okay now we just snug it up we can start to refill the heating system and you will be back in business\n"